Bud porn..take a look!

[NietzscheKeen]

Thanks, was just curious. I've applied it late, like a couple of weeks prior to harvest just to see if there was anything to the story. Couldn't tell any difference.

I think it is actually applied AFTER harvest, sorta like a leaf coating treatment, is it not? Like it's dissolved in water (if possible) and then sprayed on the leaves and left to dry?

 

[Uncle Ben]

Yeah, could be used as an additive. I applied it to the soil.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Sir Ganja, Master Gadener is a position with the county. Master Gardeners are selected and trained.
Some counties let anyone in, some are very selective.
In my county, every year, 300 people attend the info session, 200 apply, 75 are selected for an interview and 30 are chosen.
It is not self proclaimed. It's one of those things in the world of gardening that most MJ growers would not know about. It is a good way to get involved in your local scene, provide a service to the community and have access to great resources. People and literature.

Google "(your county) Master Gardener help desk"... you can call that number and ask any question you want. You can also get in touch with specialists, like your county entomologist, who can help you with identification of buggers. You can get soil samples analyzed, etc. Great resource. Free.

Here is the thing about advice from an MG who is on the clock... not only are MG's selected to know their shit.. but an MG cannot give you advice that does not have literature to back it up. So, an MG cannot give you advice based on a feeling or anything that has not been run through the scientific method. In other words, no bullshit from an MG.

Some MG's behind the phone at the help desk are more knowledgeable than others. But, I can almost guarantee you that even on a bad day, you will get better advice with that phone call than you would most days on RIU. Nothing against RIU.. it's just the way MJ growing is... lots of people playing botanist with very little experience in botany.

On the master gardeners page you can find free seminars, demos, stuff like that. These folks know their stuff. Wish we had more of those folks here on RIU... in time. We're getting more and more young folks in the MGA in my county every year.

Pearls before swine...

Yes, we do know our stuff....we better! Busted my ass working a large public garden as part of my 40 hrs. required volunteer time. Aggies rule!

 

[Kite High]

I know this question wasn't for me, but I'm hoping for feedback as well.
I use 1., 2., 3., and 5. I don't know anything about the other stuff.

There are scientific papers and university studies stating the benefits of 1,2,3 and 5. 5, IMO, is only beneficial in organic growing. If you're using it in petroleum based products you are wasting your time and money as the mycos don't do well when mixed.

Silica helps protect your plant from a lot of problems. Heat, drought, disease, etc.
Kelp... I don't really know what the deal is with kelp, but I know it is used by quite a few agricultural universities... so that is good enough for me.
Humic acids are also beneficial especially if using a soilless medium. Humic acid is found in composted materials and is great for root development and ORGANIC nutrient uptake. I'm still unfamiliar with the last two, kelp and humic acid, so if I've given any incorrect information, I hope someone will correct me.

You can always google these and you will easily find pdfs published by universities.

Sir Ganga "Pretty hard flushing a field...IMO...My granddaddy said flyin is for the birds "retard".....Some peoples kids!"

I normally don't respond to personal insults, but lets leave the family out of it. I was merely making the point that a lot of what I've been taught has come from AT LEAST three generations of farming families. My grandfather is 84 years old and was walking behind a mule when he a kid. I tend to trust most of what he says as 70+ years of agricultural experience speaks for itself. Next time you eat a Mariani Sun-Dried tomato or Blueberries; there is a good chance you are eating something I've grown.

And in regards to flushing a field. We had an inlet from a nearby pond/river and could easily have "flushed" the plants if they wanted; so it can be done. It's called flood irrigation, lol.

And you're grandpa probably forgot more than any of us will ever know about growing plants!!

Yes that is what its called but NO one uses flood irrigation right BEFORE harvest. Only unknowledgeable cannabis growers without a clue as to how plant systems thrive employ this silly no purpose practice.

Leaching definitely has its uses and applications but preharvest is not one of them.

Do yourself a favor and listen to grandpa and you'll be a fantastic grower.

 

[Kite High]

No to all but myco, and then you don't know if you're getting the benefit as the microbes must come out of dormancy and then colonize with the roots' rhizosphere. Regarding humates, peat moss and compost are rich in these acids. Bottom line, if you want a one part solution it's hard to beat DG Foliage Pro. It has everything a plant requires.

UB

I use silica but to be honest I am not sure if the benefit comes from the silica or the potassium.... or both...

 

[NietzscheKeen]

I use silica but to be honest I am not sure if the benefit comes from the silica or the potassium.... or both...

Ditto! I've used it as a foliar spray and did not like the results. I still add it to each watering; might as well since I bought it...
I do notice the tomato plants that I've used it on are a lot less fragile and the one's I've given it to have a much higher heat tolerance. Take from that what you will. I also haven't noticed any bud drop or blossom-end rot either, but they should be getting plenty of Ca, so I can't actually say it is the Silica. I do however trust Dyna-Gro to make good products that aren't designed merely to increase their profit margin, so that in itself makes me feel like I should keep using it.

Here are some photos from my experimental garden.
The first plant is the plant given silica at every watering.
The second has not received any.
You can't really tell so much from these photos and the problem has gotten worse lately, but the non silica plant has some scorching and heat stress issues, while the other shows no signs of this at all.
The third photo is an example of heat stress and scorching.

 

[Kite High]

I mostly notice thicker and stronger stems than without it...I use it at a pretty high rate as well since its ppm is low

 

[NietzscheKeen]

I'm posting this because I was confused about it and thought this was good info.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fminds.wisconsin.edu%2Fbitstream%2F1793%2F11591%2F1%2FSilicon.pdf&ei=JD-hUcCzD8f50gHr3IEw&usg=AFQjCNG2aOelYKPoa6S4jTrfkxLbs2VdXA&sig2=o6v4XFDyKEHal6ABQzv4Yw&bvm=bv.47008514,d.dmQ

It's in PDF format and discusses the difference and benefits of Silica, Silicon, Silicates and Silicone.

This website is also good:
http://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-silicon-and-vs-silica/

 

[Uncle Ben]

No to all but myco, and then you don't know if you're getting the benefit as the microbes must come out of dormancy and then colonize with the roots' rhizosphere.
UB

What a hoot! I had a visit from one of Texas' pioneers of horticulture yesterday. This is an older man (that doesn't look a day over 60) that has experimented with about every kind of cultural factor, plant and product out there, knows Dr. Carl Whitcomb very well, etc. and he brought up one of his experiences - using Mycohorrize applications in pots. Said he had been prodded by a myco sales guy to try their product so he set up a control group and applied it to like 40 pots. Time went by, and after 2 years of seeing no noticeable differences he laughs and says, "I'm reading this paper and it says that myco doesn't work with plants in pots." Now, these were perennials so if mycorrhiza doesn't work on them, sure as hell isn't be of benefit to annuals.

The aggies sure swear by it but its usefulness seems to be limited to field grown crops. This is a must read - http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/faculty/davies/research/mycorrhizae.html

UB

 

[Uncle Ben]

I'm posting this because I was confused about it and thought this was good info.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fminds.wisconsin.edu%2Fbitstream%2F1793%2F11591%2F1%2FSilicon.pdf&ei=JD-hUcCzD8f50gHr3IEw&usg=AFQjCNG2aOelYKPoa6S4jTrfkxLbs2VdXA&sig2=o6v4XFDyKEHal6ABQzv4Yw&bvm=bv.47008514,d.dmQ

It's in PDF format and discusses the difference and benefits of Silica, Silicon, Silicates and Silicone.

This website is also good:
http://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-silicon-and-vs-silica/

Once dated a gal that had really fine tits. Was quite disappointed when I found out they were full of silica.

 

[Kite High]

What a hoot! I had a visit from one of Texas' pioneers of horticulture yesterday. This is an older man (that doesn't look a day over 60) that has experimented with about every kind of cultural factor, plant and product out there, knows Dr. Carl Whitcomb very well, etc. and he brought up one of his experiences - using Mycohorrize applications in pots. Said he had been prodded by a myco sales guy to try their product so he set up a control group and applied it to like 40 pots. Time went by, and after 2 years of seeing no noticeable differences he laughs and says, "I'm reading this paper and it says that myco doesn't work with plants in pots." Now, these were perennials so if mycorrhiza doesn't work on them, sure as hell isn't be of benefit to annuals.

The aggies sure swear by it but its usefulness seems to be limited to field grown crops. This is a must read - http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/faculty/davies/research/mycorrhizae.html

UB

I too am sort of conducting a mycho text of sorts. I usually use promix hp w mycho. Well upon preparing for transplant to the 10 gazillions I saw I only had enough for 2 pots. So off to the nursery only to find they were out so I purchased regular sunshine #4 with no mycho. So two pots have it and 2 do not. So far I see no difference at all in growth and I will see how this pans out at harvest. Another factor I believe besides containers and the short grow time is the synthetic nutes starve them with nothing for them to feed. But so far I think your friend is absolutely correct. I know I will never spend Money on it for sure. The promix and sunshine are the same price where I get it from. Liking the sunshine slot and will probably stick to that.

 

[NietzscheKeen]

Once date a gal that really fine tits. Was quite disappointed when I found out they were full of silica.

LMAO!
http://youtu.be/IlD08Rh6xa8?t=17s

 

[Uncle Ben]

I too am sort of conducting a mycho text of sorts. I usually use promix hp w mycho. Well upon preparing for transplant to the 10 gazillions I saw I only had enough for 2 pots. So off to the nursery only to find they were out so I purchased regular sunshine #4 with no mycho. So two pots have it and 2 do not. So far I see no difference at all in growth and I will see how this pans out at harvest. Another factor I believe besides containers and the short grow time is the synthetic nutes starve them with nothing for them to feed. But so far I think your friend is absolutely correct. I know I will never spend Money on it for sure. The promix and sunshine are the same price where I get it from. Liking the sunshine slot and will probably stick to that.

Keep us posted bro.

 

[Kite High]

Keep us posted bro.

LOL. Ok. Also wanna mention that right now my biggest plant is in medium without mycho!?!

another thing I do not get is these mycho mixes which include ecto in addition to endo FOR cannabis growers as only the endo may contribute as it is well known the ecto is highly limited in its symbiosis to conifers? So why include in a mix for cannabis. Some more game on the uninformed. A well informed consumer can not get bamboozled unless they want to.

 

[kushhound187]

I dont think mychorrhiza is for making plants grow bigger. it makes root systems more developed. I find roots from just sunshine 4 compared to sunshine with added myco, well i find the roots are more developed.

it dosent directly make your plants bigger, but it makes them have happy roots...

 

[Kite High]

I dont think mychorrhiza is for making plants grow bigger. it makes root systems more developed. I find roots from just sunshine 4 compared to sunshine with added myco, well i find the roots are more developed.

it dosent directly make your plants bigger, but it makes them have happy roots...

well if the quality and yield are not improved then I will drop mycho....dont care what it does if it doesn't improve quality and yield it is then j0ust an added 0u0needed cost

 

[kushhound187]

I add it just for the nice roots. i figure thats a good enough reason. it looks like the plants really like it.

and at 1 ml a week, the shit lasts quite a while. i dont mind the added cost. in 10 years of growing ive spent way less than 500 bucks on the stuff

 

[kushhound187]

Thats acceptable to me. i consider it a cost of doing buisness.

altho if you dont earn off your bud and its just personal, it makes sense. lol most cgs dont spend extra if they dont need to. but i do this cause i believe in it, not because i see it as money growing on trees. i care about the plants.

i get where you are coming from kite. besides, roots from sunshine #4 grown plants are pretty awesome. even with no feed they are impressive. add some gaia green powerbloom (sorry my american friends, usda says no no for you) and you got some bad ass plants

 

[Kite High]

I get awesome plants with no bloom boost crap

 

[jondamon]

I get awesome plants with no bloom boost crap

Same here.

No magic potions, just balanced feeding and healthy plants.


J