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Unfortunately CREE only gives us data down to 50W, the 25W data is extrapolated based on CXA3590 data, which does go down to 25W . Efficiency does increase significantly as you dim below 25W, but it seems impossible to quantify without an integrating sphere. These charts should give you some...

It looks like I opened Pandoras Box the PM came in on some clones from Cali. I have got clones before with no trouble, so I was caught off guard. This indoor grow has never had PM in 7 years and the conditions did not change, so it was easy to figure out the source of the infection. It showed up...

That is a good point, I figure if you have excess "free" cooling capacity during winter, might as well scale it up if your situation allows :leaf:

How much heat does it actually save, in this 4X8 example: 750 PPFD setup with 50W COBs, 505 W draw, 262W waste heat 750 PPFD setup with 25W COBs, 447 W power draw, 202W waste heat 23% reduction in heat to get the same job done.

I am guessing that lamp mentioned above is using CPU coolers and generic 1.4A drivers. If they are genuine CREE, decent drivers, decently cooled and you had enough vertical space to get that light to spread out, that light would probably do a very good job. You might want to inspect the quality...

Here are some possible combos, assuming you are using 72V class CXB3590s (4) CXB3590s 3500K CD 72V (1) HLG-185H-C700A COBs will run up to 54W ea, ~56% efficient (5) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V (1) HLG-185H-C500A COBs will run 37W ea, ~61% efficient (6) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V (1) HLG-185H-C500, dimmed...

Great design and yes I come up with 867 PPFD averaged, but if your drivers are A version and adjusted to max, it could be as much as 930 PPFD. That should grow some monster buds :leaf:

Straight 3000K, 3500K and 4000K 80 CRi has all worked great IME. Based on that, the next thing that has got my interest is the possibility of partially mixing and matching the colors to flatten the spectrum, ideally without sacrificing electrical efficiency. You could mix: 2700K CB 80 CRi 3000K...

Yes I think that driver and COB combo is a great one size fits all recommendation and it will perform amazingly in terms of efficiency/gpw/heat/lifespan/future proofing/convenience and value. The heatsink configuration is up to your preference and design goals. This is an example of a long bar...

That example was estimated 56% efficiency, COBs running at just over 50W ea and cost $1.53/PAR W. You could get estimated 61% efficiency by running them at 1150mA $1.90/PAR W or 63.5% running them at 770mA (25W ea) $2.61/PAR W. As the efficiency of the design is increased, the driver and...

Some PC cords use 18 gauge conductors, it will be hard to read but will say the wire gauge on the jacket. Depending how many drivers you are going to run off that cable, may be worth using something beefier. For AC power wiring on and around my driver boards I have been using HUSKY 300V 14/3...

@CreeCobLED Thanks man, I would estimate 950 PPFD averaged for 2000W Gavita in your space, when the bulbs and reflectors are brand new. To match that with COBs in the same size space: (5) HLG-185H-C1400A (20) CXB3590 3500K CD With drivers at max that would give you 875 PPFD averaged and...

And on top of that, HPS reflector penalty brings 1150 down to at least 920 and more likely ~800 PPFD averaged. For an air cooled hood, another 10% loss from the glass, when it is clean. If I understand correctly the Gavita reflector emits 81% and some of that ends up on the walls as well, but...

My setup is "Heatsink Armada" style hard hat work zone. Probably not the ideal setup for most growers but I am willing to sacrifice convenience if I can squeeze a bit more gpw out of it. CXB3590 3500K CD @ 25W ea, 750 PPFD, passive cooling, remote driver boards. COBs are mostly bare, a few...

Looking great man! Regarding LED cola size in photos/film, I have noticed that pictures of my favorite ladies grown under HPS at first glance look more impressive than when they are LED grown, same exact cuttings compared. The frosting, flavor and potency are noticeably improved under LED and...

The "correct" distance to canopy is the one that keeps the light off the walls as much as possible and spreads the light into the canopy as even as possible. Reflective walls are better than no walls, they do reflect a lot of the light into the canopy, but some light gets converted into heat...

To understand the capability of a light, a good starting point might be electrical efficiency and reflector efficiency. At this stage in the game I would not recommend anyone designing a new grow room to buy fluorescent of any kind, because of efficiency (heat) and cost. Compact CFL ~ 25%...

A wire that is carrying current will heat up and add voltage drop depending on: -thickness of the conductor -length of the wire -current flowing through the wire You can calculate what the voltage drop will be for your setup here. You can get away with near zero voltage drop using 18 gauge in...

I look at the lack of IR as a good thing. IR is not very photosynthetically active so it would be ideal for the light source to allocate as much of its energy in the visible/PAR range as possible. As far as temp in the grow space, if it is too cold you can recirculate and/or reduce ventilation...

So if you run them at 7A, 320W, about 40% efficient you should get 190W of heat. For each super COB you could use something like: 10.08"X10" with 250mm fan. It has the thickest base, thick tall fins good for active cooling and cheap per surface area. If you extend the heatsink by 4 more inches...