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my end game is to try 1.5 hr on/ 10.5 hr off, driving as much light intensity as possible, technically that would 3 hrs of high intensity light in a 24hr period which doesn't seem too bad....

thanks! I'll review it. I'm wondering what happens when I push 2000+ uMol/s/m2 for 1 hr or 2hr... theoretically MJ should take 2000 uMol if the sun dishes that much out. Where is the top end is what I'm wondering.

has anyone tested plants to extreme, for example, max PPFD in 1 hour, or said another way, how much DLI can a plant absorb in 1 hr, 2 hrs, etc?

very much appreciate that you took the time to give some of your real-world experience with veggies.

Once calibrated with correct opacity of tape, does it give accurate readings for DIFFERENT light types? For example, once you calibrated for 3000K, does it then do correct readings for blurple or does it need to be calibrated per light type?

yes, totally possible... read up on Daily Light Integral (there's a good thread here)

gotcha, so this implies a shift in spectrum outside of a shift in color temperature would require a different kind of phosphor.

Interesting - i didn't think the difference in color temp was just the amount of blue (or lack thereof)... Guess I need to do some reading.... what about running 6500K or 5700K plus red monos (630, 660, 730)... again, the goal being to have full spectrum, but less of the 500-600nm spectrum than...

@CobKits - do you know of anyone running high CRI 2700K or 3000K + the all blue citi? I have a buddy who is about to come out with a new line of lights. He insists that plants first exhibit avoidance due to higher levels in the 500-600nm range (as opposed to flat out PPFD). I'll get a chance...

in that case, just run a sale on some stock you want to move. I was about to place a small order and then realized it was sales season - didn't know if you were going to do a small coupon based discount like you used to. No worries either way :bigjoint:

@CobKits, planning any black friday sales by chance?

true, I'm not arguing to do it, just saying IF you are going to do it this is really the only way to get OK performance. Otherwise, it's generally better to invest the extra money in quality components.

having trouble editing above post, I'm specifically referencing running the most current cheap $2 COBs which have many diodes which are rated @ 100W. So, if you take a cheap 100W or 70W cheap cob, and run it at 10W instead, it's decent. if it's not cost efficient to run @ 10W, then more often...

from what I've seen, you can run cheap cobs but they only compare well to higher end cobs when you run them @ 10W or less

update time? :)

anyone know if Home Assistant can easily replicate the loop timer (non-24 hour schedule)?

Update on loop timer stability... I ran for about a month without any problems with the loop timer (5.5 on, 10.5 off), but yesterday I noticed the lights didn't turn off and the sonoffs had lost connection to wifi (my router does seem to be having issues lately - may be the root cause)...

love these type of grows @Chronikool... I still spend way too much time trying to figure out the best way to grow micro... tons of ideas, very few of them actually tested :) You actually get things done, which is awesome to watch!

I'd call it a success in terms of 1)shortening flower, and 2) plant did not revert to veg. Now, with subsequent runs I'll dial in the correct amount of light to get my DLI where it needs to be.

the first test plant was ready for harvest on the modified schedule (4/4). So, in terms of rushing the finish, I think it was success. It was a super bushy/thick plant ( a reveg that was kept in a tiny chamber, topped over and over to fit, in short, it was pretty abused and one heck of a...