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The tallest biggest shoots are the dominant shoot where all the auxins are. You can break that top and pull it down then other shoots will fatten up and become dominant. If you keep playing that game you end up with a lot of huge buds instead of one dominant shoot which went untrained. Even when...

Outdoor plants run a life cycle from Spring til Fall basically. Some can finish in August but you may as well prepare yourself for Oct/Nov and then just feel lucky if it's sooner.

Invest in an Oakton PH2 and calibration solution package that contains Potassium Chloride. Stored correctly I haven't had to recalibrate this thing ever. I do re-calibrate it but when I do it's always spot on still. I know it seems more expensive but if you take care of it you can test pH all...

You should be good to go on the beginner leaves irregardless where you popped them. They should be born with a protective wax on those leaves. Personally not only do I like to get them out early I also like a little preveg to around a foot tall at least. But you will do extremely well this way...

I have to drive 2 hours to my nearest collective also. I don't make that drive unless they have several strains I want but there is 2 collectives close to one another so I hit them both up. I take everything they have that I want at once so I don't have to drive back for a couple of months...

I'd worry about russet mites for that you need 60x magnification minimum. In searching for russets you should find anything else on the leaves. They have very cheap jewler's loupes on Amazon the ones I see most common are 60x and 100x magnifications for less than 10 bucks.

Did you notice this thread was from 2013? Not saying the info isn't good just wanted you to realize it's an old thread.

Your thumb and finger are numb it's time to go to the hospital now.

I did Headband and Sour Diesel because I have grown them before and they are worth the time. The others I never grew that I remember.

Are you going with a 400w HPS to flower with or are you considering L.E.D? Can you locate it inside where you keep the temps less than 70F already by chance? If you know nothing about nutrients to hell with them go straight to organic water only growing. For one thing it isn't even necessary to...

Mature plants usually 5 to 7 days. If you have to move the plants outdoors be warned they can't take full direct sunlight immediately. They need to build up a protective coating on the leaves so limit the amount of sunlight, if they droop that is too much. About a week you should be able to have...

Ha! Botanicare with 3 times the guaranteed analysis, that's dope

A little hot, a little bit heavy on the N and a little bit of pH fluctuations. Plants look healthy for the most part though let's hope they're females ;)

After you start using chem salts you keep using chem salts there is not much of a chance you can restart your organics while a plant is in them.

I used to not like pure Sativa before I grew it myself but now I finish it with true 30% amber trichomes. Even still some sativas I don't like and those are almost universally Sativas which have a large amount of clear trichomes remaining when the smoke has finished. For those Sativas I can...

Looks like springtails

Wow Phoenix is looking to be around 117F according to noaa.gov. Glad I don't live there! Planes will be grounded I guess http://www.9news.com/news/travel/excessive-heat-makes-flying-difficult/245617950

It is important to set pH the same when you are rotating between water and with a nutrient solution because the pH will almost definitely differ. This is known as pH fluctuation by the way

My idea if the a/c fails is fluoros I never considered just killing the lights. Heat wave was rolling through here also I am a few days out from total shutdown for the summer.

I was thinking the same thing those plants look awesome. Are you setting pH the same when watering with nutrients versus just watering? If not just make sure to do that.