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How do you like the setup so far?

So a 10 kW system can produce around 1,000 watts alternating current a month or 10,000 watts of direct current. I don't claim to have all the answers you are looking for since I don't really work in this particular field. I am sure you there are some resources and consultants (who are cannabis...

I feel a combination of a large white light source with targeted spectrum bands for supplementation will be how led will replace conventional lighting

Wow, that got off topic quickly, love the progression though. However by 'going solar' do you mean your whole home? a system on a home is based on kW. I am sure you could design a system that could be used just to power a "garage" or specific appliances' and what not. Honestly 750 watts is not...

make sure the power strip can handle the load. Don't use a cheap power strip, but you don't need to spend a lot of money. 35-80 bucks for a decent one and most come with equipment coverage in the 10 K -50 K range

Sorry boss must have skimmed through that part, great idea making that space multipurpose. a 12 awg extension cord should be able to handle a 15 amp load. But I am pretty sure you won't even get close to that load running leds and a fan for circulation. You can load a 20 amp circuit with 1800...

You dropped some bills on your light rig, shit looks super dope though. In the first few cycles there is a lot to be learned but the 3 most common mistakes are too much light, too many nutrients and too much water. You have a lot of light don't give them more than they can handle, send me a pm...

I would not run any kind of lighting in a drying room. Light degrades the quality of the bud.

Ten bucks says you got shit binned diodes. guess we won't know until YOU prove to us otherwise. But hey you saved a buck and got to troll the thread, must be doin' something right

Sorry boss, I was under the impression you wanted to read the DC side of the driver. @Humple the meter I suggested was to read the DC side of the driver, If you want an AC suggestion just let me know and I can spec one out. or the one like dannykay posted will be sufficient.

https://www.amazon.com/McIgIcM-Digital-Voltmeter-Ammeter-10ADetector/dp/B06XR2XKNT/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1512852727&sr=1-1-fkmr3&keywords=DC+panel+meter+54+volts This will suit your needs. It will give you your volts and amps, with those two you can determine watts. Or just match...

Cool, Mau5 runs those panel meters. However the device is meant to read AC, It says that if you invert your power that it needs to be in 'pure sine wave' otherwise it CAN melt. @Discreetdigrowman what is your take on the meter reading DC from the driver?

your set up looks super efficient, really nice growth. What kind of panel meters did you pick up? I only found one online that will work with the 240H-C2100 driver. And the one I have is really close to faulting at the full output of the driver.

you missed my point @Cannadab1s. If you are gonna harp on these guys about being middlemen then you should just troll consumerism in general cause ain't no mo fo in this bitch producing all the components in their products.

That is like calling someone out for buying a house. Of course you can buy all of the parts cheaper and build it yourself for a looooot less than what you would pay for a built one. To further the point I am pretty sure the framers who built the house didn't chop down the tree and plane the tree...

Sorry guys for the misinformation. I have not purchased constant voltage drivers and was under the assumption that they cost more. but constant voltage is good for parallel wiring to combat things like thermal runaway and other "cautions" that may arise from wiring schematics

Constant Voltage is the way to go. It is more expensive, but it is awesome to use with parallel wiring.

Checkout Fulham Workhorse, their led drivers are called thoroled

Man that panel looks scary. ground bar is on the left with all the bare copper wires going to it. Neutral is on the right with all of the white colored wires going to it. I would need to see the power requirements for everything that you want to put on the circuit to determine the load, can't...

The ballast has a rating on it, if the 'input' section says it can handle 277 then you are good. If not, then yes you would need ballast rated for 277 if you want to run it that way. More efficient, scale would be determining factor on if you make the change.