Search results

You could very well be right.....Ive personally never seen it.

Is your root zone getting warm after you are done drip feeding? If your room is on the warm side and your roots zones are exposed (not in promix or coco) I would make sure the root area isn't getting warm after the feeding is done.

I find pruning techniques to be quite fascinating :) I'm watching!

We've been around hydroponic grows for the last decade. Over that decade, we have across root rot. Every single time it was directly correlated to a temperature issue over multiple days (water chiller failing). The day I see someone get root rot at 68F with enough oxygen enrichment will be the...

Mrgreen. Root rot will never show it's face if you: 1. Pump enough oxygen into your solution 2. Keep your water temps and root zone under 75F...preferably 68F. If you do these 2 things, you can ditch that expensive Hydroguard :)

If you have the space, can control the heat and can afford the electricity, 6 is better than 4 any day of the week :)

Don't forget hydrogen peroxide will oxidize and destroy things. We use phoshphites and chitosan in our nutrient line. They are expensive and work wonders. Hydrogen Peroxide will destroy them both. Same goes with kelp, humics etc. A water chiller would be a wise investment :)

Is this for a "clean up" or something you want to add to your nutrient solution?

This surely is a root issue. Either you've seriously over-watered them or they've developed root rot....probably a combination of both. Your best bet is to stop watering them and hope. Root rot is devastating when its progressed this far. I've seen huge healthy plants destroyed in a matter of...

It's cool. Bottom line, EC is the value that everyone can understand. PPM comes from a conversion factor. Sativied was making the point that what people are calling a "PPM" meter (that derived number) is an "EC meter" as well. :)

If possible, you want to calibrate your pens on a "curve". You can do this by using 2 different calibration buffers (pH 7 and pH 4 for example) If you're only using a single calibration buffer (lets say 7.0), be careful. Cheap pens can read like everything is fine when it really isnt. Not all...

If it stays the same, you're golden :)

I'm guessing most nutrient companies give their target PPM values based on a .50 scale? Maybe someone else can shed some insight on that. In an ideal world we'd all go by EC and PPM would be eliminated. Good get em :)

We are based out of the US. It's no big deal. Just know that EC is a constant, universal value. "PPM" is derived from EC. Both can be given as long as we know what conversion factor you're referring to. Different pens have different conversion factors, you need to google that information...

I will keep an eye on it :)

I promise, you will get much better results with a better ratio. These plants will grow and flower even under incorrect conditions. They are amazingly resilient. Give them "exactly" what they want and they'll blow you away. :)

Buffering is tricky. Every "good" nutrient company does their very best to buffer their products. Some products are easier to buffer than others. It really depends on the ingredients. We've tested everything.....extensively. Calcium nitrate is a wonderful calcium source and widely used. We...

I gotcha darkzero, just trying to help you get better. Check out our thread for pictures. We will be posting more shots as our customer's send them in.

I dont know how you are getting pH stability with large amounts of calcium carbonate. It will make your pH rise considerably :) A buffer is only created when the calcium carbonate is mixed with an appropriate acid.

How long have you been feeding that? If you're going with a 1 part bloom, I would really look for something else in the future. Look for 5-10-15, 5-15-15. You are loading on P and K, and keeping your nitrogen low. I know people say....you want little to no Nitrogen in flowering. You want "less"...