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Wiring in parallel the voltages have to match up but I'll tell you right now you'll have fun finding a driver that will push Vero 29 Cs in parallel

Using a lux meter and making a conversion is plenty accurate for any personal purposes. He's not selling lights, he's growing plants. Also the conversion factor accounts for most of the light outside the par range, and even if it didn't it wouldn't matter. How does a par meter help you more...

You can mix and match any LEDs when wired in series... matching up the currents is all you would have to worry about. So yes.

You won't find a definitive concensus for your queston. Sorry bud. I was in your shoes and went with an equal mix of 3500k 80cri and 3000k 90cri. This discussion is far more theory based than anything else and you've already touched on the theory behind it so now you just have to pull the...

Yeah but he could dial his initial setup down to roughly 1/2 power and be perfect with hardware to double his grow space if he ever wanted to. Much more versatile. (Sure I'm available if you need more sales team lol)

Any lux meter will work. Take your lux reading and divide it by your par reading, there is your conversion factor.

Can someone explain semi passive to me? Either your heatsinks are capable of dissipating the heat passively or they are not... adding a fan makes them active. Adding fans to passive setup is kinda silly imo.

Lux meter on phone with simple conversion factor. No need for anything more for your purposes I can almost guarantee.

Couple quick questions... why do you " have to switch out water with AN every 7 days"? But not so for botanicare even though it calls for the same thing (following directions for one but not the other? Interesting) Not specifying which nutrient lines youre using is also interesting. You...

You do know water temp and DO are highly corelated, correct?

To be fair, is anything else here noteworthy? This subforum is the only one imo that has lots of unique information. I'm more curious as to how much data and user info has been compromised over this period...

The thing is you already made your purchases so knowing the efficiency is quite pointless. Now I'd just assume you want to justify your purchases to know you made the right choice. You did. Knowing the efficiency changes nothing. And if you read my previous post I answered the only other...

Maybe if you could be a little less specific... as it stands now its about "as good as 99% of other testimonials selling grow lights out there" or atleast that is what I've been told lol. But seriously...

You don't "need to know efficiency at 1400ma" you already bought the chips... Get the ~140v hlg 185 or 240 and wire them in series and call it a day.

Why not just using constant current drivers? Also, I would definitely go a custom water cooled setup rather than something like you linked to. Its far too constrained and expensive.

Might be further ahead trying to understand what CRI actually is before you try to understand how it effects COBs. Or perhaps a better question is, how you plan on incorporating this information into your purchasing decisions? Because you will find tons of conflicting information detailing...

I made a chiller from a 5000 btu window ac unit. Works like a charm.

If they are not burning from it, more light will equal more growth aka faster veg times. Quite simple. Some interesting logic in this thread...

I think it comes out pretty much as a wash as far as top cobs vs qbs. Each has its particular strengths. The better question is why the op chose cree over the better performing and cheaper alternative cobs... Regardless though. You should have no buyers remorse.

What nutes you using now? Didnt see it mentioned anywhere.