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1.13 is nice yes.

0.63 is really bad considering that's worse than cheaper options like DE HPS, or CMH. And it's also clearly below what modern (cheap) LED bulbs can do. 80 lm/w LED bulbs can already achieve 1 g/w with a good yield strain. 100 lm/w bulbs are extremely common these days, and Philips/Osram already...

I've seen 23w CFLs for 3 dollar a piece. A philips 13w (100w equiv) 5 dollar bulb can directly replace a 23w cfl, without diffuser it's directional which should be an advantage in most cases, and is quasi-omnidirectional with the diffuser on. Here electricity is 0.18 dollar every kwh. The CFL...

I've always assumed minimum anyway. Anything more is an extra.

High power leds/ single dies etc. are nice for sellers that buy diodes in high numbers and have the option to reflow solder it to a PCB. Diodes are relatively expensive when you buy them in small numbers but are cheap when you buy thousands at a time. COBs are easier for diy and other small...

Lumens are for our eyes, which are most sensitive to green (555nm), and less to wavelength farther from green. 90CRI white has more light in the far red range, so our eyes are less sensitive to it. Plants have a different curve for photosynthesis. But both 80 and 90 cri will grow very well...

I doubt CFL is still worth it. Here a philips 13w Bulb is 4.68 euros. (USA prob cheaper) About twice as efficient as the CFL, directional when the diffuser is removed. 12 of those costs 56 euros. (It's probably cheaper in the US) Electricity cost is at least 18 cent per kwh here. Operating 12...

4000k will still flower an other kind of herb just fine.

Yea that's good.

Light intensity has more to do with stretching than the colour temp. You could veg under a 2200K HPS but never experience any stretch because of the light intensity. You're correct about the 90CRI COBs, currently people really like the high CRI COBs. But both kinds work.

:lol: they just copied the spectrum of the sun and decided that's what they're going to roll with.

Pepper and tomato will fruit the moment they get the chance, the only way to stop them from fruiting is using fertilizer specifically high in N. Generally it's not something desireable once you want fruit, but since you're vegging, a lot of N means the plants put all their energy in foliage...

I can understand autoflowers in some PC case grow or when you're low on budget and just growing for fun and a little personal use. But dropping 1000-2000 dollars on lights, and then not going the tiny extra step to normal weed, is strange. Autoflower is really easy if you plan on doing...

You will probably need to invest at least 1200 dollars for a LED growlight that can match a 1000w HPS. Unless DIY, but even then it's still expensive. DE HPS is still very efficient, a high end Gavita will still last you 2 years and by then LEDs will be even more efficient and cheaper. Maybe...

A mars pro 320 draws 700-760 watt in bloom mode. It should smash a 600 hps. What's next, 600 watt cfl smashes a 150watt HPS.

You could also get Cree XP-G3. But the Vero 29 is almost certainly going to be more efficient, unless you're using 5000K S5 bin XP-G3s.

Are those the Bridgelux ones? Or Samsung ones. Anyway, both are rated for a maximum case temp of 85 degrees celcius.

The XP-G2/3s in the Amare are just as efficient as the COBs. Which are most of the monos, blue and far red cree monos also tend to be as efficient, even if the xpe is a slightly weaker led than the xp-g series.

Ancient China the best https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virgin_boy_egg

Isn't a 315 (Philips) CMH almost twice as efficient as a regular (non-DE) 600W HPS? So even with a similar spectrum I could see a 315 outperforming/performing on par with a 600, but this depends on both what 315 is used and what 600.