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Abiqua, Thanks for the post. Lot's for me to digest:blsmoke: I will get threw it, since seeing is believing can you detail your fermentation process and your application of the fertilizer. I really would like to duplicate what you use and how you use it and compare it to how I am currently...

I've been looking at some cool new weeders to use to collect mine, letting them mature and trying to get them before they seed. Even if I irradicate all my weeds before seeding happens it won't matter neighbors have plenty that will blow into the yard for next spring. This one looks very handy...

I will have tons of char soon, I am building 3 retort systems to produce it. Nothing but virgin slash (Alder) to make tons of it cheap in my neck of the woods. So there will be a supply for those in the know where to go, YO! :weed: DankSwag:bigjoint:

Exactly why I started my own Organic Farm business, you should see what the going price of worm composting castings are :bigjoint: DankSwag

Mo, My goodness that is worse then pouring synthetic fertz into your soil:fire: DankSwag

Depends on type of lime, calcium carbonate powder is your fastest acting souce, Espoma GL6 garden lime is pelletized dolomitic limestone easier to use as far as Instructions on how much to apply. You'll have to convert for applicable application rate.. rule of thumb for powder is 2 to 3 lbs...

Mo, If it's from pure Mesquite and not saturated with an accelerate to burn as fuel for cooking. Char should be from pure unadulterated carbon sources and have no petroleum bi products added to it. If one could get pure Mesquite and then activate it by soaking in compost tea then hell ya use...

Hi Ginger Bread Man, :bigjoint: You should think about making char out of those rice hulls :) So I use a mix of peat moss, small volcanic rock, crushed oyster shell, coco, char and rice hulls and cloth pots to provide aeration and prevent compaction. But I am working on making char from rice...

Thought I share a little gem with you all http://oregonbd.org/Class/accum.htm DankSwag

In my own defense the recipe I posted is not mine it is from RFOG? Anywise the base is 1/3 Sphagnum Peat from Premier Peat or Alaska Peat 1/3 Aeration material (pumice and lava rock) 1/3 EWC. NONE THE LESS SOMETHING NICE FOR MY ROLS FRIENDS http://oregonbd.org/Class/accum.htm DankSwag

Very nice impressive, all you've done is water correct?

Legaleyes13, You use your base soil for seedlings, add amendments to large volume of base soil to make super soil. Place Super Soil in bottom half container and base soil in top half, when transplanting make sure to apply mycro fungi to roots to help build the symbiotic relationship between...

Very nice MO, I see you have incorporated a form of passive hydroponics setting the cloth soil pots on top of pumice in an outer container. I like!:bigjoint: Well that explains why they survived the hot soil, they were established and roots could stay within already established soil till they...

Mo, How established was she before you transplanted? DankSwag

If you have to dive right in and can't begin by mixing a complete soil and letting it cook. Then you will have to acquire some already made. If you mix something together with hot amendments such as guano and blood or bone meals you must let it cook (decompose) or you will kill your transplants...

Some folks will build there soil initially to take them from veg to flower and the only thing you add is H20 and care. I prefer this for I too grew tired of keeping up with the mechanics of using a hydro, in fact I learned how to use hydro and soil in a system called PHOGS (Passive Hydroponic...

My experience with molasses is such that I've seen temporary lockout of available N, but for this to happen I had just recently watered with compost tea that was teaming with life that would readily digest the carbon consuming all available nitrogen in the process. Thus it is very important to...

Question about nettles, I've read where people let leaves and stems soak in non areated water left outside to break down outside where it becomes anaerobic and really smelly and you have to dilute it to use it. So my thinking why not avoid the risk of bringing in harmful bacteria to the soil...

Question about nettles, I've read where people let leaves and stems soak in non areated water left outside to break down outside where it becomes anaerobic and really smelly and you have to dilute it to use it. So my thinking why not avoid the risk of bringing in harmful bacteria to the soil...

Question about nettles, I've read where people let leaves and stems soak in non areated water left outside to break down outside where it becomes anaerobic and really smelly and you have to dilute it to use it. So my thinking why not avoid the risk of bringing in harmful bacteria to the soil...