1000w led for 6x6

Is it realistic that the light is actually 3.03 ppf/w efficient? It would put it in the class of HLGs star products where they cherry pick the best diodes from an entire factory. If its a china light or rebranded china light its not very likely but not impossible. But it would have to have an immense diode count.

Also never seen a square light mover, only side to side. If you get this working please show it of cause i bet people would be interested.
The 3.03 efficiency number is probably valid. The distinction is that manufacturers often use an integrated sphere for that calculation.
Essentially, every photon emitted from the light is counted.
While legit, it's not the same as as PPFD hitting a flat surface.
Probably closer to 2.8 in a real-world PAR measurement.
 
The 3.03 efficiency number is probably valid. The distinction is that manufacturers often use an integrated sphere for that calculation.
Essentially, every photon emitted from the light is counted.
While legit, it's not the same as as PPFD hitting a flat surface.
Probably closer to 2.8 in a real-world PAR measurement.
Many of them just quote nominal current efficiency of the diodes or board efficiency. 3.03 with driver losses and 1000w isnt easy, youd need an absurd amount of diodes. HLG does it with about 4000 diodes for 650w (iirc), but they seem to have all the best bins and drivers. Count the diodes, and evaluate the price and extrapolate.
I dunno, fudging on numbers seems quite common right now. A few have externally confirmable reports but with most just come with a report from the manufacturer, a little file with some graphs. Especially with the china lights and rebrands.

On the photontek id doubt a very high "migro" numbers; its ppfd on cannopy in average:
IMG_0195.png
To get to 2.8 youd have to have an average of 1400 ppfd; the average is lower to be fair.
Maybe around 1000 and a bit, guesstimating centre values vrs corners.
These large bar lights are not allways ideal, if they have to hang too high they get a hotspot and usually bad coverage in the sides. But its a size and layout versus wattage thing.
The king brite light lets you play with the bars which is nice. Also they look diy amendable, kingbrite have nice gear for that, like adding uv and far red.
But if youre getting a good deal on the hlg 350s that is probably what id choose. If its too many for raising/lowering just do your own home made scorpion to whatever dimension and weight that suits you.
 
I doubt the light mover thing would work. They would need to be heavy duty, so take a low of power. I mean, they are meant for tiny HPS lights, not 10 kg LED fixtures. You would need 8 of them. So more likely than not one of them is always stuck or broken, needing your attention.
At that scale I would go with KISS and just get more light. Setup is simpler than light movers too.
 
Mint white is the most efficient of all the evos, it has huge desirable blue spike, and then a little bump of green which is the most efficient phosphor.
Maybe that "green for high intensity in flower" paper is just thrown in there for motivation after they made the design. They say green yields, which maybe true, green seems to give more density to the plant in general, as in harder/denser branches.
 
i honestly cant understand mammoths thinking with the new emerald green canna spectrum :?

Why it seems like not that bad of an idea, since red and green light penetrate the plants the most, right?
So if you have extra chips for a red sprectrum it would also make sense to have some extra in green.

The issue is or was (?!) that green chips were the most inefficient besides uv chips, if I'm not mistaken.
 
Mint white is the most efficient of all the evos, it has huge desirable blue spike, and then a little bump of green which is the most efficient phosphor.
Maybe that "green for high intensity in flower" paper is just thrown in there for motivation after they made the design. They say green yields, which maybe true, green seems to give more density to the plant in general, as in harder/denser branches.


yer i totally get why they use the mint evos on their lights (efficiancy), i just dont get why they have added more green mono's?. how efficient are current gen green monos?.

yep and im totally on board with the thinking that some amount of green light is beneficial for (deeper in leaf) photosynthesis, its just that the most commonly used "white" led's already have more than enough green as is.

Why it seems like not that bad of an idea, since red and green light penetrate the plants the most, right?
So if you have extra chips for a red sprectrum it would also make sense to have some extra in green.

The issue is or was (?!) that green chips were the most inefficient besides uv chips, if I'm not mistaken.


that experiment uses halogen as the white light source not led's. halogens "white" spectrum is VASTLY different to led. halogen has very little blue moderate amounts of green and massive amounts of red.
it sounds totally reasonable to say that once you have reached saturation of the top layers of leaf cells using halogen as a white light source that adding more red light will have no effect and at this point supplementing green light with its deeper penatration would be better for photosynthesis, but it wouldnt be the same for led.

at the same point of blue and red light saturation at the leaf surface using a comon "white" led + 660nm combo you would already have a lot more green than a halogen "white", no need to add more.
 
yer i totally get why they use the mint evos on their lights (efficiancy), i just dont get why they have added more green mono's?. how efficient are current gen green monos?.

yep and im totally on board with the thinking that some amount of green light is beneficial for (deeper in leaf) photosynthesis, its just that the most commonly used "white" led's already have more than enough green as is.




that experiment uses halogen as the white light source not led's. halogens "white" spectrum is VASTLY different to led. halogen has very little blue moderate amounts of green and massive amounts of red.
it sounds totally reasonable to say that once you have reached saturation of the top layers of leaf cells using halogen as a white light source that adding more red light will have no effect and at this point supplementing green light with its deeper penatration would be better for photosynthesis, but it wouldnt be the same for led.

at the same point of blue and red light saturation at the leaf surface using a comon "white" led + 660nm combo you would already have a lot more green than a halogen "white", no need to add more.
I think what looks like a green diode is actually the evo mint. Not sure though. Green monos are very inefficient, its easier to get green from a phosphor white.
 
Why it seems like not that bad of an idea, since red and green light penetrate the plants the most, right?
So if you have extra chips for a red spectrum it would also make sense to have some extra in green.

The issue is or was (?!) that green chips were the most inefficient besides uv chips, if I'm not mistaken.
Far red (730nm) penetrates well, the rest of reds are generally very well absorbed by top cannopy, with 680nm being the least penetrating (but also one of the most photosynthetic efficient).

But hey, maybe they made tests and saw green added yield. Dont know really. Blue is somewhat detrimental to yield but green response seems to inhibit blue response in plants. Not sure really, in the end only mammoth knows the whys of their choice.

Edit: also if those are real green monos im calling bs on their numbers, me knowing green diodes are about 1.5ppf/w so its hard to see how the get close to 3/w with some green diodes in the fixture. But maybe they have some secret supply, who knows.
 
i cant tell from the available pics if they are mono's or phosphor converted whites for the greens.



old mammoth mint evo light.
Screenshot 2023-09-29 at 15-16-40 Mammoth Lighting Commercial Grade Led Grow Lights Replace Fl...png

new mammoth mint evo + emerald green.
Screenshot 2023-09-29 at 15-18-58 New 8 Bar 880w Mammoth Lighting Mint White Series with Emera...png

spectrums for both.
Screenshot 2023-09-29 at 15-22-42 Mammoth Lighting Mint White Series with Emerald Green Spectr...png
 

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looks like phosphor converted whites for the greens going by the spectrums.
Youre probably right. Phosphor greens. That pic shows 4 different diodes except for the reds; you clearly see a warm white and a cold white, another blueish one that must be the evo mint, and another very green diode.
 
yer i totally get why they use the mint evos on their lights (efficiancy), i just dont get why they have added more green mono's?. how efficient are current gen green monos?.

yep and im totally on board with the thinking that some amount of green light is beneficial for (deeper in leaf) photosynthesis, its just that the most commonly used "white" led's already have more than enough green as is.




that experiment uses halogen as the white light source not led's. halogens "white" spectrum is VASTLY different to led. halogen has very little blue moderate amounts of green and massive amounts of red.
it sounds totally reasonable to say that once you have reached saturation of the top layers of leaf cells using halogen as a white light source that adding more red light will have no effect and at this point supplementing green light with its deeper penatration would be better for photosynthesis, but it wouldnt be the same for led.

at the same point of blue and red light saturation at the leaf surface using a comon "white" led + 660nm combo you would already have a lot more green than a halogen "white", no need to add more.

Yes that's actually was I wasn't sure of if the normal LED light doesnt already have "plenty of it" in the spectrum.
 
wonder which samsung diode it is?
Something similar to this perhaps?

The spike looks a little wider than a standard mono, which is similar to the spectrum on the mammoth.

If you got the connect and resources its not so hard to get a custom phosphor, its what TEKNIK did for some of the diodes in the GLA boards.
 

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