199 watt CFL's first indoor grow

skinnysmoke said:
Dabolili thanks! After you manage you attachments double left click on the pic before you submit your post. A pop up screen will appear you can choose your size for pic. Hope that helps:blsmoke:
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thanks man appreciate that tip . I'll try doing that . makes the pics look much nicer
 
that is why you need to keep all leaves on it for 2 days then remove fan leaves then let it go another day. if it dries to fast then see what your room/cabinet rh is? 50% is good you can also keep it at 55% rh in the area so it takes longer. this is not a race. drying and curing is just as important as vegging/flowering them. there is 4 steps each very important. Veg/flower/dry/cure. you take months growing them so try and take 1 week to 10 days drying and 3 days to 1 month curing. even longer cures for the super smooth and best taste it has to offer.
Smidge34 said:
I've always had troubles with mine drying out too fast, but will definitely use the rh packs this year.
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you want to make a filter to cover your intake. 2 fans pulling should be okay . you also want to hang a rh gauge and temp gauge in there so you can check it. dont let the humidty get too high in there 55% is max. 50% is better. temp should be 72-82 in there. the 82 will cause higher rh. you can use a reptile heater or heat matt under the box to raise temps but be carefull and watch it.
 
its better to have air being sucked in then out instead of hanging one in there. you just need air flow. see if you circulate it then moisture as it leaves is still in the air around them so just suck the air out.
skinnysmoke said:
Hey guys quick question. last yr I dried in a closet. This yr I'm gonna hang her in my cab, 2'6"x1'6"x3'5". My cab has 2 pc fans rated @37 cfm each and a third pc fan, rated the same, hanging moving air around. Would this be too much, not enough, or just right for drying?
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DCobeen said:
it wont hurt. also when you chop its important to keep them in the dark as much as possible. I like to do this. 24-36 hrs dark. Chop at main stem/hang upside down in dark 2 days. remove fan leaves and leave another day. chop again then trim and hang. check daily to see when the stems want to almost snap then put them in a plastic bag and let the moisture even out for 4-6 hrs or even 8. if they are not real moist then into jars with 62% rh pack. if moist hang another day and recheck. this could take 7-12 days total. but once in jars with 62 rh packs open lid daily for 1 hr for 3 days. if you are in doubt add 2 packs of 62 rh in them. after 4 days in jars take a sample and see hwo it tastes and how smooth it is. if it has any harse or makes you cough with a small hit then let them cure longer. you can cure them as long as you want but the more you cure them the smoother they get. teh packs are $.99 cents each on ebay. i suggest buying a couple more than you think you need. the steps i explained is what seperates the super dank bud from the average bud. you can really make your buds awesome if you cure right. im gonna also get mini rh meters for my jars. ill spend $100 on meters to make sure i cure them right.
Edit: i also have fans moving the air this is huge. so mold cannot take hold.
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Great advice. I'll be following it this weekend.
 
you using open area or a box? if box have fans pullling air out, no fans inside box. if ope area blow air thru them and if it gets to humid get 2 lbs rice heat in 200 degree oven for 30 min or so then put rice in a big open bowl/box under the haniging plant will suck in moisture. or use dehumidifier lol.
 
okay im reading an old book i had laying around missing cover. so i can refesh myself on drying and curing to make sure all i said was correct. it is and i left out 1 very very important part. hang it upside down like i said remove fan leaves like i said but dont trim it leave those leaves on they act as a wrapper that protects the resign and trics. even during curing. you remove them when you smoke the bud. you can remove the leaves to show someone what it looks like then smoke it. im gonna follow this. its been a few years well maybe a decade lol.

edit: you will remove the buds with leaves on them when the stem almost wants to snap and then start curing in jars. and remember to open it a few times a day to release gases and and allow fresh oxygen in so it can cure. if you are gonna sell it take the leaves off after the cure. the put in whatever with 62% packs to keep it fresh. remove the leaves over a screen with glass under so you get the keef.
 
make sure to dry slow and cure right you got a couple beans in there. bonus. again great job. its even frosty which is sweet.
 
the last one on the lower left bud. i see 2 beans. dont mess with them but make sure you get the beans after the dry and cure.
 
in flower you want Potassium Phosphate its cheap 2 lbs is $11 includes shipping will last you over a year easy maybe 2 years. Im also gonna feed in some azomite. between the 2 it will really help the ladies.
 
DCobeen said:
in flower you want Potassium Phosphate its cheap 2 lbs is $11 includes shipping will last you over a year easy maybe 2 years. Im also gonna feed in some azomite. between the 2 it will really help the ladies.[/QUOTE

Is that similar to Ff Happy Frog 0-4-0?

Nevermind I see that it's not.
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azomite is a huge source of micro minerals. Potassium phosphate is
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Mono potassium Phosphate
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When applied as foliar spray, MKP acts as a suppressor of powdery mildew.

Use approximately 1 (one) teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water for every 100 square feet of application area
For larger batches use 1 (one) pound of fertilizer per 100 gallons of water.
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