2010 Revised Super Soil Recipe

seriously?
Do I need to come make it for ya.
Put in can water lightly leave the fuck alone!
Stir after 30-45 days and use
is it that hard??
Unless its freezing ass cold in ya house in case turn on the heat to a normal temp.

R3DROCk9 said:

And can you overdue it with the supplements and amendments.........causing problems?????

If so, how to remedy??

Click to expand...

If you follow the directions and use an actual measuring cup if you really need one the use it....

Then you won't overdue it and need to remedy anything

Good luck

subcool said:

seriously?
Do I need to come make it for ya.
Put in can water lightly leave the fuck alone!
Stir after 30-45 days and use
is it that hard??
Unless its freezing ass cold in ya house in case turn on the heat to a normal temp.

Click to expand...

Lol, sorry Sub. I'm just pretty new at all this, that's all. I figured the heat from the sunshine had something to do with the cooking process.

Thanks for all your guidance and patience. And your killer genetics, I love my JTR's. Incredible smoke. And congrats on breeding the cup winner. I'm glad to see they decided to finally honor the real name.

Can't find Bio-bizz light mix anywhere around here, any good alternatives besides FF warrior-light??

Hey subcool i've been looking into all your stuff and soil and it all sounds perfect and i've collected the ingredients and even mixed them but i got a few questions on it. Will it matter if i divided it all in half so i dont have as much because i only want to grow 2 to 4 pots. Are your mumbers based on it needs that much for the reactions to occur or is it just because you use a lot. Also i wanted to get your take on the new led's weather it be 90 watts or 300 watts but none of that crap thats 660nm and 450nm i'm talking the quad band 3watt led chip. i was looking into them because they require low maintainance and keep it quite cool. thanks and i thank you for your effort to give me good cannabis

I guess wut I'm trying to say is "can someone add too much of these ingredients and burn or lockout your bitches??".....
or does it end up being jus too much of a good thing and therefore jus money wasted??

for example: I've been reading that u can't overdue humid acid, no matter how much you add....


anybody?????

blood meal can burn the hell out of em, so can too much guano...subcool says his soil has a rediciously high EC of 4.1 or something, and that numbers wise the soil should not work and burn everything but with the rare exception of a plant here and there cannabis loves it!! I just mixed my first batch of supersoil as well, I would not recomend adding anything more than subcool does, in fact I may back off a tiny bit just cause I'm scared that soil sounds so damn hot!!!

If you follow his steps then you will come out with an amazing product at the end, this was my 1st time trying his soil and I can honestly say they are the smoothest and extremely tasty buds I have come across in some time.

I advise letting it cook for a month in the sun and turn it over a couple times a week as he advises

I know Sub's a very busy guy. And I already know how he replies to, what about the PH run off questions. /duck =P

But, I did want to ask others what they thought about this one. We have had great results with this soil recipe. There is only one small issue we are having, maybe someone can shed some outside light onto.

In these pics you will notice we have, what appears to be a cal/mag deficiency problem. At first, it was only showing on one strain in particular, a Dinafem White Widow. But now, it is starting to appear on one of our RockLocks.

We live out in the country, so we run off our well water. This water runs through some sort of well water filtration tank system thingy(Well-x-trol). The water has a PH of about 7.4-8.0 which we PH down to 7.0 and oxygenate via airstone at least 24 hours before watering. The TDS of this water runs at about 130ppm. Not too shabby at all in that dept, maybe a bit low even.

We have added Cal/Mag in light amounts to our water before, up to 200ppm and to be honest didn't see much a difference. But at the same time, maybe we didn't give it a long enough go. So I really started to lean towards a PH lockout situation maybe?

Upon testing the run-off(i'm sorry!) it was really really low. 3.4ish once, and the other day 5.4 at around day 30. From what I have read, Dolomite helps the soil from becoming too acidic, therefor, raising the PH.

The one thing I noticed recently is Subcool is using the Whitney Farms brand "Prilled" Dolomite Lime. Which is funny, because we almost used that on our very first batch, but remember reading his writings to use "Powdered" Sweet Lime. So we opted to sideline that Dolomite and order another product we found on Amazon.com. This stuff is very powdery, like flour. A not so funny story is a couple times these powdered dolomites would show up in a box, with white powder all over the outside! This last time, the USPS wrapped the whole box in a plastic bag, so powder didn't get everywhere. So yea, i'm thinking, oh great. Last thing I need at the moment is the postal inspector coming down on me for a anthrax scare. lol Why would they package something this problem-atic in a thin paper bag that tears open so easily during shipping? Gah

Anyways, back to the matter at hand. Is it maybe possible, or even the slightest bit feasible that maybe, just maybe, the "Prilled" Dolomite is a better way to go? And might in turn, fix our issue we are having. I'm assuming, and I hate assuming anything in life. But maybe the "Prilled" version is more time-release friendly than the straight powder? And the powders PH raising powers are rinsing away faster than a more pellet style product would?

I hate coming to these boards and asking for any help. But as you guys can tell, I have put alot of long thought, and what I feel to be a good amount of reading and research into this issue. So any insight would be greatly appreciated from the TGA Team/Fan Base and I thank all replies in advance!

Cal/mg def. can take a week or 2 to really get better I have noticed, I would give em at least 5/10 ml per gal of cal/mg a few times over a 7-10 days to see a real change, then again if your run-off really is 3.X you have a another problem on your hands...I just mixed my super soil and it is baking, I was thinking the same thing about the lime powder, seems to just dissipate so quickly in the soil, I put in an extra half cup to be sure...I would ph your water to about 6.2ish as it will come back up within 12-24 hours giving your plant a wider range of nutrients to select from...also cal/mg gets locked out right around 6 or below I believe...Just my .02 good luck...

Naw I used sweet lime for almost 3 years as I had a 50 pound bag of it.
That kind of question well thought out and asked properly IS what this threads about
Lime will self stabilize at 7 ph or does here
i notice the first few weeks run of is low and as it cooks the ph rises I am almsot always near 7 by week 6.
I let my soil sit longer and longer these days and what I am using now was made last winter I dont see a massive difference from using it at 6 weeks but it seems more consistent with crop quality.

I know Mr. Cool(sub) cant answer all questions, but if he or anyone can advise me on this, id be much obliged.

Going to be running a SOG setup soon here, and due to the short veg time im expecting (2-3 weeks) would I be better off adjusting this recipe to lessen the amount of nitrogen?

It appears Subs recipe adds nitrogen through the Blood meal, so would possibly 1/2'ing the amount be good if only vegging for 2-3 weeks?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Ya I have asked the same question, and sub always says "he does not have duel mixes" and by the look of the buds sub is growing, I'm just going to listen to his recipe and stick as close to it as I can!!, I think its good to have all the N in there as plants do still use it in flower just not nearly as much as in a veg state. I do not think it will be all that toxic in the soil if the plants don't need it. (maybe scale back to 3 lbs instead of 5 if you like, up to you..)

On a side note, SUB YOUR RIGHT FOX FARMS HAS GNATS!!! before I read all the negative things about FF I bought 3 bags of Happy frog and 4 bags of roots for my SS mix. Mixed everything up it has been sitting about 10 days, opened one of my cans...full of adult flying fungus gnats!!!! there was also some white furry fungus patches on top of the soil that I'm sure they were loving...what do I do now guys??

thebugslaaaa said:

Ya I have asked the same question, and sub always says "he does not have duel mixes" and by the look of the buds sub is growing, I'm just going to listen to his recipe and stick as close to it as I can!!, I think its good to have all the N in there as plants do still use it in flower just not nearly as much as in a veg state. I do not think it will be all that toxic in the soil if the plants don't need it. (maybe scale back to 3 lbs instead of 5 if you like, up to you..)

On a side note, SUB YOUR RIGHT FOX FARMS HAS GNATS!!! before I read all the negative things about FF I bought 3 bags of Happy frog and 4 bags of roots for my SS mix. Mixed everything up it has been sitting about 10 days, opened one of my cans...full of adult flying fungus gnats!!!! there was also some white furry fungus patches on top of the soil that I'm sure they were loving...what do I do now guys??

Click to expand...

Sucks about the gnats but that furry stuff is soil webbing not mold and a good indication of thriving micro-life. Also, the gnats might not be from the soil, I use Fox Farm and I don't really have any problems. Fungus gnats can smell decomposing organic material over a mile away so they could have come from anywhere.

Well Mr. Subcool, You are corresponding with a complete seriously completely moron. I have been studying the right soil types and found that if I poke the soil ph meter that the aftican violet soil is the closest to what ph I need to be near? Any advice? Williwookie

stonedmetalhead1 said:

Sucks about the gnats but that furry stuff is soil webbing not mold and a good indication of thriving micro-life. Also, the gnats might not be from the soil, I use Fox Farm and I don't really have any problems. Fungus gnats can smell decomposing organic material over a mile away so they could have come from anywhere.

Click to expand...

Ya I know your right I guess I was jumping to conclusions, they prob came from my compost pile across the yard haha. No insight on the gnats though?? are they going to cause my plants and roots harm?? I heard you can put a layer of sand as topsoil to keep them from laying eggs in the moist top layer...but I have not even planted my babies yet!! I don't want them going into infected soil...I guess I will take this to the sick plants thread...

SUB

only two tablespoons of humic acid for all eight bags of soil? ...really??

yes really...

williewookie said:

Well Mr. Subcool, You are corresponding with a complete seriously completely moron. I have been studying the right soil types and found that if I poke the soil ph meter that the aftican violet soil is the closest to what ph I need to be near? Any advice? Williwookie

Click to expand...

what the hell are you talking about?? do some research on these forums and educate yourself before you waste a ganja guru's time with a question like that...

thebugslaaaa said:

Ya I know your right I guess I was jumping to conclusions, they prob came from my compost pile across the yard haha. No insight on the gnats though?? are they going to cause my plants and roots harm?? I heard you can put a layer of sand as topsoil to keep them from laying eggs in the moist top layer...but I have not even planted my babies yet!! I don't want them going into infected soil...I guess I will take this to the sick plants thread...

Click to expand...

Predatory nematode soil drench works prefect.

OF has Bugs period I am basing this on two years research into there product.

Sub