2012 aussie outdoor
- Thread starter thenugget
- Start date
thenugget
Well-Known Member
thanks man, i noticed you grew a laughing buddha .. how did that smoke turn out?
thankyou
*BUDS
Well-Known Member
Hang yellow sticky strips(good quality) above plants and the cycle will be stopped in 2 weeks.
thenugget
Well-Known Member
thanks man i ended up pulling the purple one up as all its leaves died off, got fuckall of it but no nutes so nice taste. hopefully the big ones start flowering soon.
thanks mae!
thenugget
Well-Known Member
cheers man ! me too.
couldnt find any of that at mitre 10 buds just had to go with pyrethrum. seems to had helped a little.Nugget no it doesnt but this will-That sativa your training is going to be a whopper by April.
thenugget
Well-Known Member
UPDATE
ok heres another update. been away for a few days came back and plants were getting drilled by leafhoppers there was thousands of them.
Also looks like the big one has some sort of deficiancy. they have slowed growth considerably the last 10 days or so I'm hardly noticing a difference , before it was like an inch a day now we are at a standstill. Hoping you guys have some answers. cheers nugget
here is some leaves on the big one any ideas on the problem?
this little black widow turned out to be a girl so im happy about that.
some caterpillar damage.
anyone know whats the problem here?
Cheers, thenugget
ok heres another update. been away for a few days came back and plants were getting drilled by leafhoppers there was thousands of them.
Also looks like the big one has some sort of deficiancy. they have slowed growth considerably the last 10 days or so I'm hardly noticing a difference , before it was like an inch a day now we are at a standstill. Hoping you guys have some answers. cheers nugget
here is some leaves on the big one any ideas on the problem?
this little black widow turned out to be a girl so im happy about that.
some caterpillar damage.
anyone know whats the problem here?
Cheers, thenugget
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
looks like Cal Mag def.
thenugget
Well-Known Member
thanks for the reply loaded dragon. how does epsom salts work? do you dilute a bit in water and water as normal? thanks!
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
I prefer using Gypsum for in the ground plants, as it is very easy, is fairly ready for uptake to use and doesnt change soil ph. I would use 3:1 gypsum to dolomite lime and spread 2 cups evenly around topsoil (2 ft diameter) and cultivate in top 2-3 inches. Watering it in will help encourage the microbiological processes of making the minerals easily available and ready to draw in by the plants.
have you started feeding them yet? after adding Cal/Mag to your soil..... it will increase the amount of potassium used.
Your in Australia, and my guess is thats comparable to early-mid July here, which is when I notice plants in the ground here need a soil "top-dressing" with the full assortment of organically available nutrition to supplement what is left in the soil and encourage a continuously healthy root zone environment.
have you started feeding them yet? after adding Cal/Mag to your soil..... it will increase the amount of potassium used.
Your in Australia, and my guess is thats comparable to early-mid July here, which is when I notice plants in the ground here need a soil "top-dressing" with the full assortment of organically available nutrition to supplement what is left in the soil and encourage a continuously healthy root zone environment.
thenugget
Well-Known Member
i top dressed the plants yesterday with a few handfuls of dolomite, ill go to the hardware store today and get some gypsum and do that this afternoon. I have been feeding them occasionally the fertiliser i have is NPK 23-4-14 . aswell as this worm casting juice. Ill let you know how it goes! thanks again man appreciate it
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
I edited the post above while you were writing yours, sorry 
thenugget
Well-Known Member
haha no worries mate so dolomite , gypsum what else would be beneficial?I edited the post above while you were writing yours, sorry
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
Its hard to say as I am unfamiliar with the products your local hydro stores or nurserys would carry. In looking at the pics you have posted though... I have a of couple suggestions-
1. Add 1/2 bag of soil (topsoil) comparable to fox farms happy frog, culivate that in along with the top 3-5 inches of your soil around each plant as far out as you have your stakes. and then some mulch on top (for moisture retention, and to prevent too much moisture from being wicked out of the soil by the air and being caught on the inside of the plant... this leads into 2), I would recommend hay. This will also prevent damage from cold weather later on in the season, as it is like a blanket for the roots.
2. begin to trim the inside of the plants a few leaves and inner branches at a time ( starting closest to the center of the plant). This will promote good airflow on the inside of the plant, helping it make the best use of water, nutrition, and sunlight... as well as preventing rot and mold in the future (you can spray your main stalks on the inside of the plant with a garlic spray that will help keep pests away, by absorbing into the stalks it will travel systemically throughout the plant) Just trim what is shaded for a majority of the time. Dont take it all at once, and it is advised that you have your inner trimming well done before the onset of calyx stacking (2-3 weeks into flower). This will also help promote flow of nutrition and new development to the tops and outer extremes of the plants where you will see the most flower production.
3. Now would be a good time to set up a net or trellis laterally so it can support the heavy flowers to come... I would set a frame about 8-12 inches from current outter extremes including the sides from about 2 ft off the ground and up. and use a 4"x4" mesh. I prefer something a bit stiffer then a thin string net, and something more flexible than metal wire.... a plastic mesh for example.
4. after applying new topdressing, increase amount of water during watering by 10-15 percent.
5. Note that as it gets colder outside, and RH goes up outside, your plant will not use water as rapidly, but will still increase its nutrient consumption.
sorry if you already know a bunch of that... I think they are keys to success though... and your plants are doing really well so far!
1. Add 1/2 bag of soil (topsoil) comparable to fox farms happy frog, culivate that in along with the top 3-5 inches of your soil around each plant as far out as you have your stakes. and then some mulch on top (for moisture retention, and to prevent too much moisture from being wicked out of the soil by the air and being caught on the inside of the plant... this leads into 2), I would recommend hay. This will also prevent damage from cold weather later on in the season, as it is like a blanket for the roots.
2. begin to trim the inside of the plants a few leaves and inner branches at a time ( starting closest to the center of the plant). This will promote good airflow on the inside of the plant, helping it make the best use of water, nutrition, and sunlight... as well as preventing rot and mold in the future (you can spray your main stalks on the inside of the plant with a garlic spray that will help keep pests away, by absorbing into the stalks it will travel systemically throughout the plant) Just trim what is shaded for a majority of the time. Dont take it all at once, and it is advised that you have your inner trimming well done before the onset of calyx stacking (2-3 weeks into flower). This will also help promote flow of nutrition and new development to the tops and outer extremes of the plants where you will see the most flower production.
3. Now would be a good time to set up a net or trellis laterally so it can support the heavy flowers to come... I would set a frame about 8-12 inches from current outter extremes including the sides from about 2 ft off the ground and up. and use a 4"x4" mesh. I prefer something a bit stiffer then a thin string net, and something more flexible than metal wire.... a plastic mesh for example.
4. after applying new topdressing, increase amount of water during watering by 10-15 percent.
5. Note that as it gets colder outside, and RH goes up outside, your plant will not use water as rapidly, but will still increase its nutrient consumption.
sorry if you already know a bunch of that... I think they are keys to success though... and your plants are doing really well so far!
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
also... if you follow my steps, you want to keep in mind the liquid fertilizer you are using, and ensure that what you add to the soil wont conflict with it. ph wise for example. If you are feeding at full strength now.... after amending drop it to 1/3 strength and build back up to full strength until the onset of flowering. At those ratios, for cannabis, I would expect the P to be more around 7 or 8 :/ (shrugs) during vegetative stage, and increasing slowly P and K until you transition into flower.
thenugget
Well-Known Member
thanks so much for the detailed answer loaded dragon! and no i didnt know much of what you said so its always great to learn. Im really not sure what is comparable to to fox farms here all we have is a heap of potting mixs with slow release ferts and hardly any state the ingredients. so not sure what to do there ? i will get some hay though, i have a bail of pea straw that should work?
as for the trimming, how many fan leaves should i remove? a friend who grows removes heaps of the fan leaves, but ive read conflicting reviews on that. I will get to work this afternoon on cutting of the spindly branches down below. As for the fertiliser it is just cheap all purpose soluble fertiliser and is probably pretty rubbish, you get what you pay i suppose. But where i live there is only one hydro shop and all it stocks is hydro nutrients and at nurserys and garden centres they tend to have all the same cheap shit. I should really buy some maxsea of ebay that looks like the go. Anyway ill let you know how it all goes and hit you up if i have any problems. thanks alot for that loaded dragon i appreciate it
theloadeddragon
Well-Known Member
MaxSea would be perfect for your grow, and will compliment my suggestions well. I am not sure what your countries requirements are as far as labelling and listing ingredients. cant you order some FF HF online?
the idea of removing the fans from the inside of the plants is very complex and actually does boil down to a scientific/mathematical method. Typically, those leaves store minerals and nutrients that are "mobile" as well as use minerals and nutrients that are "immobile" (mobile meaning they can be transferred elsewhere in the plant, slowly draining the leaf) (immobile, like boron for example, build cells that are necessary for the physical structure of the plant and may not be transfered to other parts of the plant). If the stored mobile nutrition is not necessary for the recovering health of the plant (recovering from bad weather or a storm for example) then they arent quite as useful. I have noticed that for a lot of growers that reduce the amount of N during flowering, those leaves yellow faster and more often (the N that is stored gets converted and transfered elsewhere) which is one reason why I recommend that people stay consistent with supplying N during flowering. That being said, the stored nutrition wouldnt be as useful, and if the leaves are not receiving sunlight and producing energy from that, then they are using energy/nutrition/water to sustain themselves, and that energy can by used elsewhere by the plant if you pick them.
So, both arguments are valid regarding removing the leaves. I find that success is measured in the balance of the two. Remove the leaves that you Feel will draw unnecessarily to the plant, and leave the ones that you think will create more energy/photosynthesis and continue to be useful to the plant. You can take too much, especially at one time.... as you remove each leaf from the plant pretend you are scratching it.... scratch too much and it will be injured
scratch just a little and you will sooth it and promote a positive reaction ...... got really really baked since my earlier posts I hope that all makes sense lol.and Based on your pics I wouldnt take any more than 5-10 good size inner fan leaves and 5-10 inner branches at a time (and only the scraggly branches
) maybe just two or three times a week until the beginning of flower (only pick the already dead and drained ones after that )