A Guide To Colloidal Silver

xX1cEpikKXx

xX1cEpikKXx

Well-Known Member
Yea man i got some sundae driver... thinking about selfing her so i never run out. Will phenos still pop up from S1 seeds?

On a different note...
Does the pollen have to hit the same plant for it to be s1 or can it be a different plant, same genetics, and be s1?
 
HighLowGrow

HighLowGrow

Well-Known Member
Poontanger said:
HLG, if I may,...…...when you self a plant, U will get a lot less seed , than using pollen you've saved ,

True, but if that’s all you have you will do just fine.

at optimal time , on a different plant , but the point im trying to establish , is , ...lets say I had 2 Northern lights, , u flip 1 earlier than the other , so u can spray it , 4 weeks later u flip the other , so as your pollen & flower are both ready together at the optimal seed production level,

Yes. That’s the goal.

would these seeds be as stable or true to type as 1 northen lights , selfed ?
& how many seeds would u expect from selfing a small plant say 18 inches , compared to using 2 plants
Hope that makes sence !!
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Selfiing a plant - some people mist the whole plant. Not the best plan. I’ve learned to mist a lower branch/bud site and hit the same plants pistals at other sites for S1’s.

If you were to self a Northern Lights fem you should have lot of fem seeds of the same plant.

Number of seeds - 1-2 hundred. Depends.

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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
xX1cEpikKXx said:
Hi, i was wondering what the negitives of selfing a plant with cs would be?
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There are no proven negatives, aside from anecdotal reports of lower seed counts, but that shouldn't matter, since you'll get a ton, either way. I would avoid consuming any part of the sprayed plant, though, since the CS will have penetrated into the inner tissues of the plant. It's perfectly fine for a seed run, though.

Poontanger said:
HLG, if I may,...…...when you self a plant, U will get a lot less seed , than using pollen you've saved , at optimal time , on a different plant , but the point im trying to establish , is , ...lets say I had 2 Northern lights, , u flip 1 earlier than the other , so u can spray it , 4 weeks later u flip the other , so as your pollen & flower are both ready together at the optimal seed production level, would these seeds be as stable or true to type as 1 northen lights , selfed ?
& how many seeds would u expect from selfing a small plant say 18 inches , compared to using 2 plants
Hope that makes sence !!
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Selfing a plant is like crossing it with one of its siblings, in that the pollen and egg cells aren't all the identical, however, if you have proven that a plant is homozygous for a gene, selfing it allows you to know that both "parents" are homozygous for that gene, since both the pollen donor and the mother are the same plant. This saves you the trouble of having to test both parent plants for homozygosity.

If you are selecting for a dominant allele, you can only know for sure if it is heterozygous for the recessive allele by doing a breeding run. For example, if you have a generation of siblings that consists of both red plants and green plants, and the green allele is dominant (G = green / g = red), you know two things for sure. The red plants (gg) have no green allele, and the green plants have at least one green allele (GG / Gg) You do not know, however, if the green plants have a red allele, because both GG and Gg plants will be green, but only gg plants will be red.

If you want to figure out if a green plant is homozygous (GG) or heterozygous (Gg), you could cross it with a red plant (gg), and if any of the offspring are red, your green parent is heterozygous (Gg). If all of the offspring are green, your green parent is homozygous (GG) and your offspring are all heterozygous (Gg).

*Note*
The information above is a simplification of how genetic heritability factors into breeding. A lot of genes are simply dominant or recessive, but you also have some that operate somewhat differently, such as codominance and incomplete dominance. You also have traits that are polygenic, which means their expression is dependent on multiple genes. That is why humans can be a variety of heights, rather than having to be either one short height or one tall height.
 
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Poontanger

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
Thankyou Hazy & thankyou 4 this thread
Im probably like most wanting to make some fem seeds , that has a degree of stabilization , & to your liking ,
Hows this 4 plan A , I self a plant, & also collect pollen , grow the first round of seed on , , then used the saved pollen , to pollinate one of the original 1st croos seeds , will this help the program ??……..I understand that crossing a lets say blue dream with a blue dream , because there a bred strain , that the 1st batch of seed will haed of in all directions
Is my plan A a way to shortcut the system , to stability ?
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
halo2killer said:
I may try this soon. Is there any good sources to buy this from or is it best to make yourself?
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I've heard good things about Tiresias Mist aka "TM", but I have no experience with it. I would say it's best to make it yourself, if you are going to do it properly, but it's not necessary, if you are just doing some small seed runs. It depends on how much you need to use, and whether or not you think it's financially worth it to make your own generator.

Poontanger said:
Thankyou Hazy & thankyou 4 this thread
Im probably like most wanting to make some fem seeds , that has a degree of stabilization , & to your liking ,
Hows this 4 plan A , I self a plant, & also collect pollen , grow the first round of seed on , , then used the saved pollen , to pollinate one of the original 1st croos seeds , will this help the program ??……..I understand that crossing a lets say blue dream with a blue dream , because there a bred strain , that the 1st batch of seed will haed of in all directions
Is my plan A a way to shortcut the system , to stability ?
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You're welcome, man. I'm glad to help out.

Let me see if I'm understanding you correctly. You want to produce a batch of uniform, female seeds, and quick stabilization is a high priority, right?

If so, I would recommend selfing one and then backcrossing to the same plant (through stored pollen use), which I believe is what you mentioned.

Basically:

Step 1: S0 (P1 x P1) ---> S1

Step 2: S1 x S0 --->BC1

Step 3: BC1 x P1 --->BC2

Step 4+: Repeat Step 3 --->BC3+

Every time you backcross your new offspring, you will be getting creating a generation that is closer to the original pollen donor. Depending on how stable that original plant was, and how uniform you want the offspring to be, and how well you select offspring to backcross, you can be looking at 1-5+ generations.

If you are ot growing autoflowers, you might want to consider keeping a mother plant, from which you would take clones to spray with CS and get fresh pollen from, each generation. Either that, or store a lot of pollen, and store it well.
 
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flower-gurl

New Member
Hi everyone. I could really use some advice.

I used colloidal silver I purchased online on this plant for about 2 weeks when it first went into flower. It was burned pretty badly but eventually recovered. Is this a male or hermie? There are some pistils on the plant, but not many. Should I get rid of it and start over or keep going? I've got a female ready to start flowering - I've just been waiting on pollen.

Note - there's a brown spot on the plant in one or two of the photos - that's where I clipped a few fan leaves so I could get a better view of the plant's progress.

If this plant isn't useful, no huge deal, I've now got the stuff to make my own CS and start over.

Thanks in advance!!

J3aVdXKrSgixB9sSQesjyA_thumb_62bd.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_62b6.jpg
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_62b7.jpg
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
flower-gurl said:
Hi everyone. I could really use some advice.

I used colloidal silver I purchased online on this plant for about 2 weeks when it first went into flower. It was burned pretty badly but eventually recovered. Is this a male or hermie? There are some pistils on the plant, but not many. Should I get rid of it and start over or keep going? I've got a female ready to start flowering - I've just been waiting on pollen.

Note - there's a brown spot on the plant in one or two of the photos - that's where I clipped a few fan leaves so I could get a better view of the plant's progress.

If this plant isn't useful, no huge deal, I've now got the stuff to make my own CS and start over.

Thanks in advance!!

View attachment 4291446
View attachment 4291449
View attachment 4291452
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Those pods will produce pollen. They won't open up like they would on a typical male plant but they will produce viable feminized pollen. You'll likely need to harvest the pods and manually extract the pollen. It's not uncommon to get some female pistils when using colloidal silver spray. Those need some more time until they're ready.
 
rob333

rob333

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
Those pods will produce pollen. They won't open up like they would on a typical male plant but they will produce viable feminized pollen. You'll likely need to harvest the pods and manually extract the pollen. It's not uncommon to get some female pistils when using colloidal silver spray. Those need some more time until they're ready.
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the dude that started this thread prob aint even alive anymore
 
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flower-gurl

New Member
xtsho said:
Those pods will produce pollen. They won't open up like they would on a typical male plant but they will produce viable feminized pollen. You'll likely need to harvest the pods and manually extract the pollen. It's not uncommon to get some female pistils when using colloidal silver spray. Those need some more time until they're ready.
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Thanks for the advice! I appreciate your time and knowledge.
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
rob333 said:
the dude that started this thread prob aint even alive anymore
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He most certainly is. :blsmoke:

flower-gurl said:
Hi everyone. I could really use some advice.

I used colloidal silver I purchased online on this plant for about 2 weeks when it first went into flower. It was burned pretty badly but eventually recovered. Is this a male or hermie? There are some pistils on the plant, but not many. Should I get rid of it and start over or keep going? I've got a female ready to start flowering - I've just been waiting on pollen.

Note - there's a brown spot on the plant in one or two of the photos - that's where I clipped a few fan leaves so I could get a better view of the plant's progress.

If this plant isn't useful, no huge deal, I've now got the stuff to make my own CS and start over.

Thanks in advance!!

View attachment 4291446
View attachment 4291449
View attachment 4291452
Click to expand...
The burning is normal with most store-bought colloidal silver sprays. You plant doesn't look that bad, though. It should be fine, and you should be able to get some pollen. The thing with burned plants is that you can't really be sure if they produced pollen sacs because of the CS doing its work, or if they changed because they are stressed.

To go along with what @xtsho said, you also may not get as much pollen as you would with a genetic male, but you should be able to extract more than enough, either way. I am inclined to believe that a stress-induced flower change would likely be less complete than one induced by CS, but that's just speculation, because I haven't run any comparison experiments, myself.

Let us know how it works for you!
 
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flower-gurl

New Member
EverythingsHazy said:
He most certainly is. :blsmoke:


The burning is normal with most store-bought colloidal silver sprays. You plant doesn't look that bad, though. It should be fine, and you should be able to get some pollen. The thing with burned plants is that you can't really be sure if they produced pollen sacs because of the CS doing its work, or if they changed because they are stressed.

To go along with what @xtsho said, you also may not get as much pollen as you would with a genetic male, but you should be able to extract more than enough, either way. I am inclined to believe that a stress-induced flower change would likely be less complete than one induced by CS, but that's just speculation, because I haven't run any comparison experiments, myself.

Let us know how it works for you!
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Thank you SO much for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate your input!

I decided to keep going with this plant and see what happens (I haven't lost anything by trying). This weekend I made my own CS using your instructions and it worked perfectly! I can't believe how easy it was and wonder why I didn't try it sooner. Anyways, with the new CS I made, I'm spraying about 1/3 of another plant, trying to get it to produce pollen sacs just in case the first plant doesn't work. Is it worth it to continue spraying the plant shown in the previous photos or is it too late to do any good?


IMG_0581.JPG
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
flower-gurl said:
Thank you SO much for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate your input!

I decided to keep going with this plant and see what happens (I haven't lost anything by trying). This weekend I made my own CS using your instructions and it worked perfectly! I can't believe how easy it was and wonder why I didn't try it sooner. Anyways, with the new CS I made, I'm spraying about 1/3 of another plant, trying to get it to produce pollen sacs just in case the first plant doesn't work. Is it worth it to continue spraying the plant shown in the previous photos or is it too late to do any good?


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You're very welcome! I'm glad to be able to help out!

Your homemade CS looks great! It appears to be pretty clear, and that's a nice solid laser bema you have in there, as well. I would continue to spray the plant for a bit longer (with your homemade stuff instead of the store-bought stuff that may burn the pollen sacs), since I'm not 100% sure if they can revert back, or at least abort pollen production, if they start building up ethylene again in the absence of silver particles.
 
Poontanger

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
Everythingshazy, if I may, & if the question has been asked , im sorry for repeating
Im hoping to self a plant, & also , make enough pollen to freeze sum, firstly ,how many seeds if all goes well, would you expect to get ??…..& would you suggest, I top the plant & pollinate the main cola , or top the plant & try to , pollinate , a later flower site
Im then hoping to grow 1 of the made seeds, & use the stored pollen to pollinate that plant , in a effort to make the strain more like dad
its getting harder to get the seeds you want & I only have a few of this strain left , & trying to import seeds from overseas banks , is becoming quite hard

Thx for your time
 
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EverythingsHazy

Well-Known Member
Poontanger said:
Everythingshazy, if I may, & if the question has been asked , im sorry for repeating
Im hoping to self a plant, & also , make enough pollen to freeze sum, firstly ,how many seeds if all goes well, would you expect to get ??…..& would you suggest, I top the plant & pollinate the main cola , or top the plant & try to , pollinate , a later flower site
Im then hoping to grow 1 of the made seeds, & use the stored pollen to pollinate that plant , in a effort to make the strain more like dad
its getting harder to get the seeds you want & I only have a few of this strain left , & trying to import seeds from overseas banks , is becoming quite hard

Thx for your time
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Hey, no problem, man. Let me break up your post, so it'll be easier to read.

Poontanger said:
Im hoping to self a plant, & also , make enough pollen to freeze sum, firstly ,how many seeds if all goes well, would you expect to get ??
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If you self an entire plant, you can get few hundred seeds. It really depends on how big you grow the plant before pollination. Every calyx has the ability to produce a seed, so you should be able to get a lot of seed from one run.

You may want to also pollinate it, and then do the same again the next day, to make sure you've hit as many receptive pistils as possible. Then give it a solid day or two, for the pollen to start traveling down the pistils, and if you want to put the plant back with your other females, without pollinating them accidentally, spray it down with water to kill any unused pollen.

Poontanger said:
would you suggest, I top the plant & pollinate the main cola , or top the plant & try to , pollinate , a later flower site
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I'm not 100% sure what you mean when you describe your two options, but I would pollinate the earlier flowers rather than the later ones, so the seeds have enough time to mature.

Poontanger said:
Im then hoping to grow 1 of the made seeds, & use the stored pollen to pollinate that plant , in a effort to make the strain more like dad
its getting harder to get the seeds you want & I only have a few of this strain left , & trying to import seeds from overseas banks , is becoming quite hard
Click to expand...
If you plan on storing the pollen, be sure to thoroughly dry it out before sealing it up, and putting it in cold storage.
 
Poontanger

Poontanger

Well-Known Member
Thx for reply, so you mean if im lucky enough to get a nice lot of pollen , after ive pollinated my plant , I should place the remaining pollen on paper , for a few days to get it real dry , before freezing ?? & does mixing pollen with flour help for storage

I read were a homemade CS was made to 18 ppm & it didn't work, is there an optimal ppm range you should try to make your CS to , ie 25-30 ppm ???

an old phone charger , which ill try to use for the job , how many amps or volts , does that produce ?? I also have a AC adaptor that goes from 3V - 12V what is best ??

So after ive pollinated the girl , (a few days) a mist spray with water all over the plant drenched will kill any unused pollen ??

Ok so if all goes to plan & I grow a seed on from the first batch , when is it best to try & pollinate that seed , ie how old is the best time to hit a flower from that seed , I have read between 2-3 weeks ??

& how long can I store pollen in the freezer , & it still remains viable ??…..sum say 12 months , others say they have used pollen 3 years later , I suppose that depends on the strain ??

& do you get better quality pollen from a plant you might veg for 6 weeks, compared to a plant you veg for only 3 weeks ??

Sorry to ask these questions you've probably answered a thousand times , its just before I have a go I want to try & get things right, after reading a lot of stories about the topic , there is a high failure rate, & it is mainly due to not producing pollen , they get sacks but no pollen in there is a common complaint , I read

Thankyou for your time & knowledge

Poon
 
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flower-gurl

New Member
I can answer one of your questions. To make my CS last weekend, I used an old Nokia phone charger I got from a friend. I cut the end off and separated the wires for about 6 inches then fed each end into an alligator clip I bought at Walmart. I didn't solder mine and it works just fine - just strip off about 1/2" off each wire and wrap it around the screw and tighten it back up. See the photo below.

My silver came from Golden State Silver (Etsy seller). I bought two 10 gauge silver rods (each 5 inches long) for just over $20. Shipping was very fast.

IMG_0652.JPG IMG_0653.JPG

I used an old mayonnaise jar, a small aquarium stone with pump for aeration, and distilled water from the grocery store. Mine "cooked" for about 15 hours - I kept going until the laser beam shined through it like in the original post in this thread. Don't forget to clean the silver rods every so often with the scratchy-side of a kitchen sponge. I didn't have a coffee filter, so just strained out the larger floaters with a paper towel-lined funnel.
 
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