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Air Intake flwoer room--please comment[/h]
In my flower room which is a open basement 15*12*12
Does my air intake need to be outside air or can i draw from another room threw a hole in the wall?
My concern is that outside air in the winter will be very cold and sure the 3-- 1000w hoods are going to produce alot of heat but pumping in air ranging 30 degree to subzero when it gets cold will make it even harder to control my enviroment which is already hard to keep within a 10 degree range from lights on and lights off on a 12/12 schedule.
Also when lights are off for 12 -- how often is it necessary to clear the room via exhaust and replenish with the intake.. Once a hour for 15 minutes? Once every 3 hours for 15? Not at all? When the lights are on, I plan on having the exhaust and intake running for the entire 12 hours
I am very greatful for any and all input!!
Thanks
Air Intake flower room--please help
- Thread starter mtmutombo
- Start date
zem
Well-Known Member
first of all, you don't need to place intake and exhaust fans, you just need exhaust and hole for passive intake. you will be better venting, almost double by placing both fans as exhaust and making bigger passive intake holes.
you can intake from another room on condition that the second room has an open window to the outside for fresh air to replace the exhausted air, you simply cannot recirculate the same air for the plants, fresh air needs to come in through somewhere and exhaust to the outside. plants need CO2 for photosynthesis and use it up quickly. in dark periods, i usually just keep exhaust running, but you can put it on a timer to change the air several times since plants' needs for air are much less in the dark. how often i don't know, i would put it on for like 5 mins every 1/2 hour or hour or as needed to keep things in control...
you can intake from another room on condition that the second room has an open window to the outside for fresh air to replace the exhausted air, you simply cannot recirculate the same air for the plants, fresh air needs to come in through somewhere and exhaust to the outside. plants need CO2 for photosynthesis and use it up quickly. in dark periods, i usually just keep exhaust running, but you can put it on a timer to change the air several times since plants' needs for air are much less in the dark. how often i don't know, i would put it on for like 5 mins every 1/2 hour or hour or as needed to keep things in control...
I have the exhaust going out the fireplace chimney and the air will be coming in opposite end of the room.
Do you know much about exhausting through a chimney?
I am venting 8 inch 750cfm through there on test runs it seems to vent fine without backing up.. the flue of the chimney is not 8 inches around because it is rectangle shaped all the way to the top of the chimney outside.. it is 12 by 5
I planned on opening the window in the room i will be pulling from.
Anyone else please chime in!
Do you know much about exhausting through a chimney?
I am venting 8 inch 750cfm through there on test runs it seems to vent fine without backing up.. the flue of the chimney is not 8 inches around because it is rectangle shaped all the way to the top of the chimney outside.. it is 12 by 5
I planned on opening the window in the room i will be pulling from.
Anyone else please chime in!
propertyoftheUS
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a real PITH to cut a hole in masonry to make an exhaust, is there any other possibility available for an exhaust hole? If you do have to use your chimney it should vent fine as long as there aren't any openings from where the hole will be cut up to the top of the chimney.ie fireplaces, wood burning stoves
MrMeanGreen
Active Member
OP... be carfeull of venting up ya chimney. Having a fire burning will produce a very different heat signature to IR camera than having 700+ cfms of warm air blasting out at pressure. As much as possible try to vent and recycle inside, better co2 and less suspicion. Especially during late flower I need to keep a scrubber running during lights off to prevent smell leaks.
propertyoftheUS
Well-Known Member
Do you have the option to pull air from a window inside the room or from another room? And Is your setup taking up the space of the whole room or do you have it partitioned?
MrMeanGreen
Active Member
Heat discipation / concealment is not an issue for you being legal. But here in blighty.....
vent and recycle simply means to vent into you house and create air movement through out the house and loft. My extractor for ligths are on a closed system and draws cool air in from the bedroom below. The heat from the lights is pushed downstairs into the kitchen coming out under the units. This creates a push pull effect between the kitchen and the bedroom, this recycles the air over and over. It keeps the house warm in winter and the loft cool in the summer. Most importantly, I don't have plooms of hot air flowing from my house attracting attention.
vent and recycle simply means to vent into you house and create air movement through out the house and loft. My extractor for ligths are on a closed system and draws cool air in from the bedroom below. The heat from the lights is pushed downstairs into the kitchen coming out under the units. This creates a push pull effect between the kitchen and the bedroom, this recycles the air over and over. It keeps the house warm in winter and the loft cool in the summer. Most importantly, I don't have plooms of hot air flowing from my house attracting attention.
legallyflying
Well-Known Member
Jesus Christ, someone needs to create a sticky for this stuff.
A couple notes:
1. Plants don't need co2 or more O at night, none.
2. If your going to create negative pressure in your basement you need to be exceedingly careful if you have NG appliances down there...furnace, water heater. The negative pressure can pull carbon dioxide back into your living space. It does not take much negative pressure to accomplish this. Odorless killer at high concentrations, toxic at low concentrations.
3. Opening a window will alleviate the above problem, but then your going to have cold air pouring in on light off= high temp differencial= more stretching
4. A passive intake needs to be sized 4x larger than your active exhaust to even come close to being effective.
5. You can not effectively control temps with a full time on or off fan setup. Unless you live near the equator or at the beach you need a temperatee sensor to turn the fans on and off.
Your best and most effective plan would be to pipe cold outside air into your flower room. Have the intake fan controlled by a temperature sensor...they run about $70. Buy an 8" damper to place at the end of the pipe where it terminates in te grow room to prevent air and bugs from entering the room. Screen the inlet with no seeum netting.
The room then needs a passive outlet, the bigger the better, placed up high. You can make your own light proof damper with a little cardboard and panda film scrap. Tape the top edge over your outlet (on the outside obviously). The pressure of escaping air will open the flap and let warm air out.
The downside...your fucked in summer.
A couple notes:
1. Plants don't need co2 or more O at night, none.
2. If your going to create negative pressure in your basement you need to be exceedingly careful if you have NG appliances down there...furnace, water heater. The negative pressure can pull carbon dioxide back into your living space. It does not take much negative pressure to accomplish this. Odorless killer at high concentrations, toxic at low concentrations.
3. Opening a window will alleviate the above problem, but then your going to have cold air pouring in on light off= high temp differencial= more stretching
4. A passive intake needs to be sized 4x larger than your active exhaust to even come close to being effective.
5. You can not effectively control temps with a full time on or off fan setup. Unless you live near the equator or at the beach you need a temperatee sensor to turn the fans on and off.
Your best and most effective plan would be to pipe cold outside air into your flower room. Have the intake fan controlled by a temperature sensor...they run about $70. Buy an 8" damper to place at the end of the pipe where it terminates in te grow room to prevent air and bugs from entering the room. Screen the inlet with no seeum netting.
The room then needs a passive outlet, the bigger the better, placed up high. You can make your own light proof damper with a little cardboard and panda film scrap. Tape the top edge over your outlet (on the outside obviously). The pressure of escaping air will open the flap and let warm air out.
The downside...your fucked in summer.
Gquebed
Well-Known Member
Where I live, temps go down to -30 regularly in the winter. I bring in fresh air from outside through a 10ft run straight into the tent. The friction through the line and heat from the fan warms the fresh air quite a bit and when it mixes around in the tent I'm all good. Just don't let the cool air blow on the plants is all and you'll be fine.