Al B. FAQt

so lately what have your yeilds been like?, what was your best production month?

have you ever met crocodile dundee and the crocodile hunter, how bout russel crowe, hes aussie i believe.

when you get the chance, would you review this site, its not much to look at, shouldnt take long. Then let me in on your opinion.
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they come in all spectrums, and claim that they are closer to the suns frequency using a digital ballast

sorry, those are just the bulbs, it doesnt have any good info on that site, this is a forum on a hydro suppliers website, a led enthusiast is blabbing about something, then this guy life light shows up, and pisses everyone off. this is a bit of a read. but i think youll enjoy it anyways
LED Grow Light Opinions - Hydroponics Forum

Hey Al aint u gonna rep me for my kindergarden art lol, im only joking i spent the best part of 10 mins putting that together i thought it mite be a good idea but i understand, but maybe this modified idea is better....

What if i had 2 intake blowers, 1 for the rooms airmass and 1 solely for the cooltube, could i then attach the cooltube dump to the extractor dump AFTER the extractor fan, or do i need a seperate extractor fan aswell. I'm thinking this could be good for me becuase i could source the cooltube air from beside a window ambient temp would be about 17c, would this help, or should i just pay £50 for a mini ac unit to control temps until december when i move into a house and bigger setup....

Sorry for picking your brain Al nice to know you pay enough attention to give an educated opinion, which is much appreciated, and maybe someday i can return the favour just gimme bout 10yrs.................

Today is a sad day (again), the young beans got infected with mould due to over watering (No.1 noobi mistake huh) Al B Fuct has confirmed it.

This time Im ordering Root riot (they say it provides more oxygen) and give it another try with the help of our friend Mr H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide).

I need a few days to mourn before I begin sniff...sniff

Hey Al... I just thought I'd let you know that I am in FAQt stupid....lol..

The thermostat that I got last week is a "single pull/double gate"..?!?!?

Meaning that there is an norm open and a norm closed circuit as well as the common....

So by simply switching one wire's position, I now have the cooling stat I need...

Thanks again for all your help...

Gypsy...

Al B. Fuct said:

If by 'fan controller' you mean an integrated thermostat and motor speed controller, no. You may not even need the speed controllers, but they are nice to have if you want your fans to be a bit quieter. I would hazard a guess that separately purchased speed controllers & thermostats would be cheaper than integrated controllers. Tstats are about $40, MSCs are about $30, your mileage may vary.

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So would this type of coil thermostat be sufficient for my exhaust inline. Id just like the ehaust fan to turn off at night when the temps drop below 72-70.

bleezyg420 said:

So would this type of coil thermostat be sufficient for my exhaust inline. Id just like the ehaust fan to turn off at night when the temps drop below 72-70.

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I saw those when I bought mine...

But I went with this kind... and as you may have read, it allows for both cooling and heating, depending on which terminal you wire into...





I'll let Al answer you, but I think both kinds would suit our needs...

Which by the way.... do you have a link to some pictures of what you are setting up...???

My build starts on the bottom of page 21 of my journal...

Check here.... https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/101376-mini-aeroponic-garden-21.html

Best of Luck...

Gypsy...





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Al, hope you are doing well.

Will 5.5" pots be big enough for SOG? American Hydroponics makes some 3' X 3' trays with these lids.
http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=1151

24 spaces for 5.5" pots, which goes along with your setup. This lid would keep the roots from being exposed to light. No I'm not buying from that place, just a link so you can see what I'm talking about. I'm going to source it cheaper. The lids will probably be $100 but they are precut so you can just drop the 5.5" pots directly in.

holmes said:

so lately what have your yeilds been like?, what was your best production month?

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Around 1-1.25z/plant, about 23-29z per tray.

have you ever met crocodile dundee

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No, he's a movie character.

and the crocodile hunter,

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No, he's slightly dead.

how bout russel crowe, hes aussie i believe.

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Yes, he and his band 'Thirty Odd Foot Of Grunts' have in the past been stupidly drunk at The Bridge Hotel in Rozelle NSW. I don't cocktail but I have on occasion had to be the alco-hauler, collecting inebriated associates from TOFOG gigs @ The Bridge.

holmes said:

when you get the chance, would you review this site, its not much to look at, shouldnt take long. Then let me in on your opinion.
Home
they come in all spectrums, and claim that they are closer to the suns frequency using a digital ballast

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You can do any phase of growing with plain old HPS. I veg my mums with a 400HPS and flower with 1000HPS.

Electronic ballasts are getting less expensive and do save a small amount of power (about 9% with 600HPS), but it'll still take a long time to recover the purchase price difference between standard inductive ballasts and electronic units on the basis of power savings. A 600W Lumatek ballast costs about $247 around here, a 600 CWA inductive costs about $75.

I can't find the 'closer to the sun's frequency' claim on the linked site.

Colour temp is a very small player in growing cannabis; most of the effect of lighting on plants is dictated by the photoperiod (day length). You can induce different growth habits with different spectral prominences, though. Vegging with HPS yields somewhat elongated plants (nice for when you need long stems for SoG clones), flowering with MH yields somewhat more leafy buds (for which I can't think of any good use).

Cannabis produces best yield and density by flowering with HPS because the red-yellow spectrum of it mimics late autumn sunlight at temperate latitudes, where cannabis is indigenous. Low sun angles in autumn mean the sunlight is passing through a long path through the atmosphere, which filters out most blue light. Thus, cannabis is evolved to make the most of red-yellow light in flowering, which is luckily what HPS makes. I say 'luckily' because HPS was not really developed for horticulture, rather it was designed to be highly efficient street lighting. The efficiency is gained by NOT producing full-spectrum light. So it happens, the light emitted from an arc through sodium vapour has pronounced red-yellow peaks, which just happens to suit cannabis in flower very well. Full spectrum lighting is not necessary in any single phase of growing cannabis, so there's no need for you to pay for lighting capable of making full spectrum light.

iloveit said:

This time Im ordering Root riot (they say it provides more oxygen) and give it another try with the help of our friend Mr H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide).

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Skip the 'root riot' stuff. All you need is H2O2 and proper watering to make 'em go.

GypsyBush said:

The thermostat that I got last week is a "single pull/double gate"..?!?!?

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That's a pretty klunky way of saying 'single pole, double throw' (SPDT).

Meaning that there is an norm open and a norm closed circuit as well as the common....

So by simply switching one wire's position, I now have the cooling stat I need...

Click to expand...

I rather suspected that your tstat would have NO & NC contacts, just for this purpose.

bleezyg420 said:

So would this type of coil thermostat be sufficient for my exhaust inline. Id just like the ehaust fan to turn off at night when the temps drop below 72-70.

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If it is a 'cooling' thermostat (contacts close when temps go above the setpoint), it'll do fine.

greenstar said:

Will 5.5" pots be big enough for SOG?

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Yes, that's about the smallest I'd consider using. That size will allow 4 plants per sq ft.

American Hydroponics makes some 3' X 3' trays with these lids.
http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=1151

24 spaces for 5.5" pots, which goes along with your setup. This lid would keep the roots from being exposed to light.

Click to expand...

Not necessary, in fact, this lid would limit the number of plants you could fit in a 3x3 to 24, where you could otherwise put many more plants in the tray.

The point of growing plants in standard pots as normally used for soil (netpots are not necessary) is to keep the rootmasses contained within the pots to prevent roots knitting with roots of neighbouring plants, preserving portability of plants within the op. This is useful for plant maintenance as well as moving slow plants into more favourable light coverage positions during flowering. Roots may poke out of the drain holes in standard pots, but exposure to air will prune them off so they don't extend more than a couple of mm from the drain holes.

GypsyBush said:

I'll let Al answer you, but I think both kinds would suit our needs...

Which by the way.... do you have a link to some pictures of what you are setting up...???

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Im still waiting on a double wide so eventually Ill put both 600's in that. As of now Im using the 3x3, which Ill convert to the veg room, and free my closet finally. Ill be moving the tents into my adjacent bedroom, after saving up enough money to take over his side of the rent. Right now Im trying to cover the cost of his rent. I dont think I would need a heating component since my 600 will keep the area way too hot, with the exhaust off.


Do they make digital cooling thermostats instead of coil, like that plug and go ? Just simply plug it in, and then plug the blower to it?

Another quick question in regards to speeding up the early grow cycle (Id just like your opinion on the process of shoots:

Would it be best if after germination I place the seed in RW & immediately switch on the fluros & keep them on 24/7 (which is what Ive been doing)

OR

should I place the seed (before germination) in the RW and leave it in the dark until a sprout is visible on the surface & then switch on the fluros on 24/7 (someone recommended this method & now Im confused but Ill I going to do as you say)

bleezyg420 said:

Do they make digital cooling thermostats instead of coil, like that plug and go ? Just simply plug it in, and then plug the blower to it?

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yep, this one will do that. $A40 ($US29.90) from Jaycar Electronics in Australia, costs about $A10 ($US6.50) to ship to Nth America.

iloveit said:

Would it be best if after germination I place the seed in RW & immediately switch on the fluros & keep them on 24/7 (which is what Ive been doing)

OR

should I place the seed (before germination) in the RW and leave it in the dark until a sprout is visible on the surface & then switch on the fluros on 24/7 (someone recommended this method & now Im confused but Ill I going to do as you say)

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Honestly, it makes no difference either way. Before it has leaves, the seedling doesn't care about light. However, once there's seed leaves out of the hull, they can go under 24/0 fluoro light.

Al B. Fuct said:

yep, this one will do that. $A40 ($US29.90) from Jaycar Electronics in Australia, costs about $A10 ($US6.50) to ship to Nth America.

Honestly, it makes no difference either way. Before it has leaves, the seedling doesn't care about light. However, once there's seed leaves out of the hull, they can go under 24/0 fluoro light.

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Thanks al, My dads full aussie. Born in melbourne. My cousins live on the yarra river.

YaK said:

I read this thread alot, although not entirely

I think I read in another thread that you were collaborating with someone on doing a batwing/cool tube combo, an "AlBFuct signature series" ??

I'f you've posted an update on this, then I'm sorry, but I'm interested in getting one, I like the setup alot.

You are a very inspiring person... thanks!

(I was going to ask about fytocel too, but I think I can find that in the harvest every two week thread)

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the adjust-a-batwing prices are pretty expensive, but look to be worth it. since i'm not that handy with metal work, I'll get one of these in conjunction with a 1k cool tube, if there is in fact not an affordable alternative (ie the combo you spoke of)

Also, I'm kind of suprised that more people dont use solar energy, is there a reason why you dont use it? perhaps location?

bleezyg420 said:

Thanks al, My dads full aussie. Born in melbourne. My cousins live on the yarra river.

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heh, send him this link, he'll appreciate it.

YaK said:

the adjust-a-batwing prices are pretty expensive, but look to be worth it. since i'm not that handy with metal work, I'll get one of these in conjunction with a 1k cool tube, if there is in fact not an affordable alternative (ie the combo you spoke of)

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The combo isn't available yet. If you want what I have, you'll have to purchase the AAW and cooltube separately and fit them together yourself.

Also, I'm kind of suprised that more people dont use solar energy, is there a reason why you dont use it? perhaps location?

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I need about 23kWh/day to run my op. The amount of solar generation equipment necessary would be well over $100,000. Here's a 30.5kW PV system for comparison.

The linked PV system in aerial photos. It's effing HUGE.

N37° 00' W121° 47' - Google Maps

Hey ABF

So I am getting real close to being done with my first set and I cut off a few buds to get a feel for the drying and trimming process and after doing so these buds smell like I just pulled them out of the hay field. They are in the dryer now and i just checked them and they are doing OK but still smells like i should feed them to the cows not smoke them.

I have read where that if you cure them it will cure it out of them but I am trying to use your methods and i don't recall you stating that your started your process out like that.

What say ABF? I know you have some nugs of knowledge on this.

Thanks Al

Thanks uncle Al Ill let you know how it goes.