Avoiding the PH game, noob

Saying your inexperience then jumping down others throats for them attempting to help is retarded an you dont deserve any respectful answers unless giving some respect out... even if they are wrong you could just ask how they came across that answer an have them explain it ect.

As for you ph down too much, it happens. Just correct it. Dont leave it an let it correct itself, yes it will correct itself but over that time you could have done some damage to plants when it could take you 15min to fix it. Bottle of ph up is 10 and down is 10$... dwc i can see how you wont rear accurate fast results but thats the system you chose so use little amounts at a time until it is steady at 5.6-5.8 . After awhile of making nutes you get hang of it an hardly use ph down and wont ever use ph up.

Hydro setup should be a steady ph level, idk why people saying 6.x or whatever. Read a ph chart online and you see where to keep your ph AT ALL TIMES. No ph swings especially in dwc when plants ALWAYS have access to eat. Most dwc have water chillers to help algae and ph swings.

Most DWC units do NOT have chillers. Many do not need them. But I totally agree with ricky and immediate pH adjustments.

Guys, lets whoa this up a bit.

To the people helping me, THANKYOU, thankyou soo much. Am i supposed to give rep everytime someone helps me? are you a rep whore? (lolz jk)
To the people who offer stupid advice then persecute me for knowing better, F U C K O F F ! !

Im new and inexperienced, im trying to get help here, i give respect where its due. If you can clearly and ARTICULATELY guide me, respect, honour and love you looong time!

here are some pics of my baby, i can see a yellow spot (think it was there when i was given the clone, seems to he healing) AND the leaves seem to be cupping upwards on the outer spikes of the leaves?

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i know my temps are high, but its currently 28oC+ ambient outside, i believe 35oC is the cutoff point, anything over and the plant is struggling? (i remember reading recently, can post link if its wrong)

Im not being a smart ass, im being objectional, that way i learn WHY things happen/are better/work better/dont work etc etc

Blanched leaf tips = first sign of nutrient load. Curled upwards = heat. Your thermometer shows it's too hot! That's close to 95 F!!

Diablos said:

Got my first DWC in, PH was a touch high (around 6.5 - 7.0) so i dropped it, a little too far i think, its probly around 4.5 - 5. Now im using canna classic A for vegging with an EC around 1.0-1.2, plant is a 8 week old clone so its well established. Need a few more inches and it can go to flower.

If i leave my PH at its current level and just let nature do its thing (over time my PH will rise slowly??) it will correct its self. I really dont wanna play this PH game, 35 litres in the res, and Canna aint cheap.

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Better get damn used to it if you are running hydro. 4.5-5? Way too low. 6.5-7? Way too high. 5.5-6.1 is where you want to be.

hotrodharley said:

Adjust the pH quickly. What the hell good is DWC if you wait for nature to correct your mistakes? Dump half the res and add plain tap water. No pH Up needed. AND no need to wait for chlorine or chloramine to dissipate. Just add it.

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I agree with this.

for the 3rd time my PH is not correct, maybe .2-.5 low but it should bounce back, im using tap water. its around 5.2 ish. I fucked up the first time and over shot PH down by 1 full PH. also my nutes may have been a touch strong. so ive moved about 8 litres in total over 24 hours and replaced with NORMAL TAP WATER NO NUTES, diluted my nute mix.

Also, is the feed pump and air pump enough to mix things through the water? or do i need to actually put my hand in and mix shit.

i know.... im a bit concerned as well. i live in an area that is between 25 - 35oC depending on the weather, its hot in australia, hot and dry. my temps are usually a tad lower, around the 32-34oC.
I know i should do something about it, but at the moment im holding the cabinet temps at the ambient temps, without cool tubes or AC. My extraction fan is moving 500m3/h (294 CFM). Im trying here, as long as it doesnt wilt and die ill be happy. Just want some hobby grown smoke. here in australia wholsale prices.. 1 ounce is $300 (mates rates). Its cheaper for me to grow 5 - 8 ounces and pay the $250 for electricity...

I forgot to take a photo of the roots, its been in my DWC system for nearly 3 days now, and its already dropping a 2-3 inch long root into the water. How many roots need to be there so i can get rid of the water pump in the res, that should knock a few degrees out of the res, and il going to move my air pump out of my cabinet so its sucking in air from outside of the cabinet. my logic is, air pump is currently sucking in 30oC air and pushing that into the res, its usually 5oC lower outside the cabinet. So if i can pump 25oC air into a 30oC res it should help stabilise that temp...

Im not keen on frozen bottles and im really really broke right now.

Thx for the advice so far

ps can someone tell me from the pictures, is everything looking ok? like on the whole, thx for identifying the heat problem, im stuck running on the higher end of the "allowable temps" due to my climate and country. Can anyone see anything horribly fucked? just looking for some reassurance, wish i had one of you guys here to "hold my hand" through this grow. Last grow was years ago and that was just some seeds i threw in the ground, waited almost 9 months and smoked some truly organic herbal smoke, best bush bud id ever smoked, and i didnt even tend to it.

Lool, @whoever said you dont need chillers for all setups. Regardless of your setup the last thing that should never be overlooked is root zone temps, have you ever gotten pythium? Well its very fucking dangerous and can infest in less than 24hrs. Idc who the fuck you are, water temps are a serious matter and people need to make "contingency" plans for dealing with temps. Fluctuation of temps will also slow growth overall, if you can ever afford a smaller chiller then you'll only be satisfied if you pick one up.

Ph fluctuates in water due to plants absorbing either water or nutrients, you should let your buckets of water sit for like 15 minutes after ph adjusting to attempt to settle about. Ro water is not needed, nor is removing the chloramine from the water to beneficial unless your using beneficial bacteria in your setup, the chloramine will help kill the bad bacteria like pythium.

Sweet, thx Silicity, ive repped everyone from page 1 who i felt deserved it, check your messages , if i missed someone im sorry, let me know and ill give credit where its due.

Im using tap water because its like 40 ppm, its so clean here in Australia. And i was told tap water is better for ME BECAUSE it has calcium and magnesium in it and i dont need to use additives, sound correct?

can someone answer my question about the roots and when i can remove the stupid feed pump?

also, given that my plant is around 15-18cm tall now, how tall should i try to get it before i switch to bloom?

Top feed + dwc = massive. I don't remove my "feed" pumps.

Diablos said:

Sweet, thx Silicity, ive repped everyone from page 1 who i felt deserved it, check your messages , if i missed someone im sorry, let me know and ill give credit where its due.

Im using tap water because its like 40 ppm, its so clean here in Australia. And i was told tap water is better for ME BECAUSE it has calcium and magnesium in it and i dont need to use additives, sound correct?

can someone answer my question about the roots and when i can remove the stupid feed pump?

also, given that my plant is around 15-18cm tall now, how tall should i try to get it before i switch to bloom?

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Well, I've never done any type of hydro before, but I do know a little about tap water... Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals in it that can harm the plant, so if you plan on sticking to tap water, I suggest that you leave it sitting for a couple hours (overnight is how i do it) for the chlorine and such to evaporate before using it.
Also, about switching to 12/12, it really depends on your space and/or how long you want your cycle to be. A good rule of thumb in terms of growth after switching to 12/12 is that the plant will grow about 1.5x-2x its height.

Crankyxr said:

Well, I've never done any type of hydro before, but I do know a little about tap water... Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals in it that can harm the plant, so if you plan on sticking to tap water, I suggest that you leave it sitting for a couple hours (overnight is how i do it) for the chlorine and such to evaporate before using it.
Also, about switching to 12/12, it really depends on your space and/or how long you want your cycle to be. A good rule of thumb in terms of growth after switching to 12/12 is that the plant will grow about 1.5x-2x its height.

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I agree, but mine always seem to at LEAST double in size.

cool bro, im about to do a grow myself with soil, im going 100% organic with plant magict soil and the biobizz starter kit, Just wondering because i didnt invest in a ph meter or the up/dwn am i likely to encounter problems in soil? 1

Bakatare666 said:

I agree, but mine always seem to at LEAST double in size.

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Do you usually grow sativa or indica strains?
That always happens to my sativa strains, but only rarely do my indica/indica dominant strains do that. But then again, I do top my plants about 2-4 times if that has anything to contribute to it.
But then again, I am more versed in outdoor growing as I only started growing indoors. Maybe it's different indoors, maybe it's not. Someone has gotta know.

shit fuck. i didnt realise it shot up so much when it went 12/12..

so if its currently 20cm tall, and it will double to triple in height.... I have no space issues, only height issues, will be screening in a future grow (sog or scrog)

from the pics im guessing i need to let those leaves get a bit bigger then turn it? maybe 7-10 days?

Crankyxr said:

Well, I've never done any type of hydro before, but I do know a little about tap water... Tap water contains chlorine and other chemicals in it that can harm the plant, so if you plan on sticking to tap water, I suggest that you leave it sitting for a couple hours (overnight is how i do it) for the chlorine and such to evaporate before using it.
Also, about switching to 12/12, it really depends on your space and/or how long you want your cycle to be. A good rule of thumb in terms of growth after switching to 12/12 is that the plant will grow about 1.5x-2x its height.

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chlorine is good for plants and life in general in small amounts.

there are other bad chemicals in there though that soften the water and stuff, and also ph buffers

bmeat said:

so you learned from me that tap water had buffers in it, its the method you choose, but i don't get a rep.

outta here hope the tap water fucks you up

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Lmao-- it will that's his whole problem.

HiREEFA said:

cool bro, im about to do a grow myself with soil, im going 100% organic with plant magict soil and the biobizz starter kit, Just wondering because i didnt invest in a ph meter or the up/dwn am i likely to encounter problems in soil? 1

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Well, it's better to have a pH meter just in case you run into pH problems. Sometimes(rarely) you won't have problems with pH in soil, but most times you will at some point. You should definitely invest in one. You won't regret it.

topfuel29 said:

Lmao-- it will that's his whole problem.

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agreed, cause a buffer does just that, it buffers, it doesnt just ph up or down. it trys to keep it stable, so there is such a thing as rebound.

i was wrong when i said the ph wont bounce around because its not a living thing.

if there are buffers in your solution, it will always cause it to bounce close to the buffers ph.

if there are no buffers, the ph will be whatever you set it to. tapwater has buffers in it

Crankyxr said:

Do you usually grow sativa or indica strains?
That always happens to my sativa strains, but only rarely do my indica/indica dominant strains do that. But then again, I do top my plants about 2-4 times if that has anything to contribute to it.
But then again, I am more versed in outdoor growing as I only started growing indoors. Maybe it's different indoors, maybe it's not. Someone has gotta know.

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Last season, (outdoors) I had a heavy Sativa, that was about 12" when she started to show pistils, and ended up almost 4'.
The heavy Indica next to her the same.
I had a third, but it was inbetween, maybe 60/40 Indica, but it was same age, and about 2 1/2' tall when I knocked something over and killed her.
The one I have now, it was 10" tall 5 days or so after the flip, and you know how she looks now.
All were from bagseed.