Bridgelux EB Series Build

Serva

Well-Known Member
So 12 two ft lights would be enough for flower? Or are you saying use 24
12x 25w = 300w Seems to be enough for 2x4 ft flowering.

But I would prefer 24 strips @ 300w, both is possible. I will take 56 strips with 200w, it‘s all possible! Less strips = less initial costs, higher power draw over time/// more strips = higher initial cost, less power draw over time.

As more strips you take, as more effective and efficient your light will get... so it‘s really up to your interest!
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
12x 25w = 300w Seems to be enough for 2x4 ft flowering.

But I would prefer 24 strips @ 300w, both is possible. I will take 56 strips with 200w, it‘s all possible! Less strips = less initial costs, higher power draw over time/// more strips = higher initial cost, less power draw over time.

As more strips you take, as more effective and efficient your light will get... so it‘s really up to your interest!
k now im looking for thermal paste. is it all the same >?

where might i find some in canada?

https://www.amazon.ca/Halnziye-Performance-Compound-Silicone-Processor/dp/B06XK6WDRP/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1510773255&sr=8-7&keywords=thermal+paste
 
I think I figured out the multimeter, and it looks like my drivers are providing 24volts, however I'm not sure I'm getting the correct amp reading.

The Volt reading for a single strip was ~24volts, and with 2 strips wired together the reading as ~22volts., which I guess accounts for the ~1.5v drop off when running in series?

Now I also tested amps, using the 20A setting on my multimeter, and I seem to be getting ~1.38amps when testing 2 strips wired in series. So, does this mean that I'm running the strips at their maximum potential of 24volts and 1400mA?
 
Last edited:

Seshwaan

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

Going to be building the frame for my light tonight and then wiring the strips etc either tomorrow or Saturday, exciting times!

One thing I was worried about is that due to my space constraints, I may have to have each strip literally right up against one another to fit them in my PC case... Can anyone see that causing issues?


Also I am not 100% certain that the material I bought to make the frame is aluminum, would using any other metal bring with it any unwanted side effects/ issues? Yes that is probably the stupidest question that has been asked here but I am an overthinker.so want to make sure.!

One last thing is that I am very conscious about causing a fire due to miss wiring or something, I appreciate that with any electrical equipment comes the risk of fire but honestly how much risk is there with these strips?



PS> I will be sure to get some pictures as I go along, this light is for a PC case so I guess not many of them have been done?
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
Hey all,

Going to be building the frame for my light tonight and then wiring the strips etc either tomorrow or Saturday, exciting times!

One thing I was worried about is that due to my space constraints, I may have to have each strip literally right up against one another to fit them in my PC case... Can anyone see that causing issues?


Also I am not 100% certain that the material I bought to make the frame is aluminum, would using any other metal bring with it any unwanted side effects/ issues? Yes that is probably the stupidest question that has been asked here but I am an overthinker.so want to make sure.!

One last thing is that I am very conscious about causing a fire due to miss wiring or something, I appreciate that with any electrical equipment comes the risk of fire but honestly how much risk is there with these strips?



PS> I will be sure to get some pictures as I go along, this light is for a PC case so I guess not many of them have been done?
How many strips, what‘s the wattage?

Actually I don‘t see any problems running the strips on whatever you want, when you run them below 50-70% of nominal current, and some airflow in the case.

If you work clean, and strip the wire properly, make sure every wire is stucked (I pull each wire, to be sure), and you don‘t see any blank copper, than there is only one more point to care for:

The strips have mounting holes, and holes for the use with lenses. Make sure you are using these mounting holes (you can see it on the backside, it‘s brighter there).

Otherwise I would recommand thermal tape. I have used screws, but there isn‘t a proper contact to the c-channel, because the strips are all slightly twisted (using 1ft from digi-key, 3 different orders, all the same). With thermal tape, or thermal glue, I could imagine, that you will be able to fix the strips directly on the inside of your pc case! As long you are running the strips soft. Atleast I saw threads where thermal tape was a good choice, and I just ordered a roll for my next project (100ft/12$ free int. shipping, ebay).
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
I think I figured out the multimeter, and it looks like my drivers are providing 24volts, however I'm not sure I'm getting the correct amp reading.

The Volt reading for a single strip was ~24volts, and with 2 strips wired together the reading as ~22volts., which I guess accounts for the ~1.5v drop off when running in series?

Now I also tested amps, using the 20A setting on my multimeter, and I seem to be getting ~1.38amps when testing 2 strips wired in series. So, does this mean that I'm running the strips at their maximum potential of 24volts and 1400mA?
without guarantee

I think you are right. 150w maximal output is written on your driver, the model name contains the current 6,3a, so 24v seems possible!

But what I don‘t understand is the reading relating to the series circuit, missing the knowledge there :(

From what I understand is, that you got a CV (constant voltage driver) with 24v, that causing 1 strip (the one you tried for clones/veg) to blink, because of overload?!

But I can‘t see 9 strips wired in series working, unless you have wired them in parallel, where a drop in voltage may have worked out good for you? But also with only 2 strips?

May I ask you (@Randomblame) to help us out here, please? I definitly don‘t get it (: (btw we are talking about the 2ft strips)
 
without guarantee

I think you are right. 150w maximal output is written on your driver, the model name contains the current 6,3a, so 24v seems possible!

But what I don‘t understand is the reading relating to the series circuit, missing the knowledge there :(

From what I understand is, that you got a CV (constant voltage driver) with 24v, that causing 1 strip (the one you tried for clones/veg) to blink, because of overload?!
I just meant that when I tested the voltage and amps, I tested the strips that were already mounted, wired in series, and powered on, and the circuits that I tested consisted of a single driver, and 2x 2' strips wired together in series. When I tested these circuits by placing the multimeter probes on the solder contacts I was gettign a reading of 22v & 1.38amps.

So it seems that my driver is actually capable of outputting 6.3 amps, so it is actually driving the strips at their maximum load of 24v & 1400ma? so I could actually run more than 2 strips on each of these drivers, until I run out of available voltage (since amps will be the same across all components in a series circut?

I also don't quite understand the voltage drop when running in series. Wiki states the voltage drop at 1.5v

"If the four light bulbs are connected in series, there is same current through all of them, and the voltage drop is 1.5 V across each bulb"

But I'm not sure if that 1.5v is a universal voltage drop, or if it only applies to light bulbs and 9v batteries?

EDIT: But it looks like these must be 24volt drivers, according to the calculator with 6.3amps and 150w max I'd be getting just under 24 volts

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.htm
 
Last edited:

Seshwaan

Well-Known Member
How many strips, what‘s the wattage?

Actually I don‘t see any problems running the strips on whatever you want, when you run them below 50-70% of nominal current, and some airflow in the case.

If you work clean, and strip the wire properly, make sure every wire is stucked (I pull each wire, to be sure), and you don‘t see any blank copper, than there is only one more point to care for:

The strips have mounting holes, and holes for the use with lenses. Make sure you are using these mounting holes (you can see it on the backside, it‘s brighter there).

Otherwise I would recommand thermal tape. I have used screws, but there isn‘t a proper contact to the c-channel, because the strips are all slightly twisted (using 1ft from digi-key, 3 different orders, all the same). With thermal tape, or thermal glue, I could imagine, that you will be able to fix the strips directly on the inside of your pc case! As long you are running the strips soft. Atleast I saw threads where thermal tape was a good choice, and I just ordered a roll for my next project (100ft/12$ free int. shipping, ebay).
Thanks for the reply man!

Im using 5 of these - https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3/976-1493-ND/6236279

Going to run them at 350ma for a total of around 6000 lumens/sq ft


Never thought about using thermal tape... the stuff I bought for the frame has holes all down it anyway so was thinking about just using some zinc nuts/bolts to mount them to the frame once Ive made it. I bought wago clips so can use them but will get some thermal tape aswell.

I think I will just post a few pic's here of my plan and run it by you guys before actually wiring. For the sake of waiting a day for you to give your opinions and save me blowing the strips it won;t be a problem.
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply man!

Im using 5 of these - https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3/976-1493-ND/6236279

Going to run them at 350ma for a total of around 6000 lumens/sq ft


Never thought about using thermal tape... the stuff I bought for the frame has holes all down it anyway so was thinking about just using some zinc nuts/bolts to mount them to the frame once Ive made it. I bought wago clips so can use them but will get some thermal tape aswell.

I think I will just post a few pic's here of my plan and run it by you guys before actually wiring. For the sake of waiting a day for you to give your opinions and save me blowing the strips it won;t be a problem.
I guess you have something like 1/2 x 1 ft ? So not more than 1/2 sqft? From my experience, be able to dim them down! Especially let them get used to the light over time. Time and time again, I have dimmed them down, because plants were happier. Looked like calcium def, but with less light, they grow healthy again. I am using 50w over 5-6 sqft for veg. 70w for 2sqft for flower (100 was too much), and 200w for 6 sqft for flower (250w was too much). Just as some reference numbers.

Btw, if you have a proper airflow in your case, mount them as you like. I think it‘s unlikely you max out the strips to 100% (350ma)! For veg I would make sure to have a driver, where you can dim down below 50%, so not the A version of MW driver.
 
Last edited:

Serva

Well-Known Member
I just meant that when I tested the voltage and amps, I tested the strips that were already mounted, wired in series, and powered on, and the circuits that I tested consisted of a single driver, and 2x 2' strips wired together in series. When I tested these circuits by placing the multimeter probes on the solder contacts I was gettign a reading of 22v & 1.38amps.

So it seems that my driver is actually capable of outputting 6.3 amps, so it is actually driving the strips at their maximum load of 24v & 1400ma? so I could actually run more than 2 strips on each of these drivers, until I run out of available voltage (since amps will be the same across all components in a series circut?

I also don't quite understand the voltage drop when running in series. Wiki states the voltage drop at 1.5v

"If the four light bulbs are connected in series, there is same current through all of them, and the voltage drop is 1.5 V across each bulb"

But I'm not sure if that 1.5v is a universal voltage drop, or if it only applies to light bulbs and 9v batteries?

EDIT: But it looks like these must be 24volt drivers, according to the calculator with 6.3amps and 150w max I'd be getting just under 24 volts

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.htm
Please post your wiring! If it‘s wired in series circuit, than the voltage should be divided, no? Read again the wiki post you qouted, english isn‘t my mother language, but from what I understand, the 6v of the battery is divided evenly to the 4 bulbs, resulting to drop the voltage („voltage drop“) below 1,5v for each bulb („across each bulb“). This may be insufficient to light them up, same for the EB strips, that‘s why I still think you havn‘t wired them in series :) And with respect, I would like to see a photo from your wiring, before I venture a guess.
 
IMG_0347.JPG View attachment 4044110 View attachment 4044110
Please post your wiring! If it‘s wired in series circuit, than the voltage should be divided, no?
That's what I thought too! So maybe I actually have them wired in parallel? The wiring picture is my new avatar.

I have the Driver's positive (+ red) lead wired to the positive (+) solderless point on strip #1 , and the Driver's black lead wired to the negative (-) solderless point on strip #2.

Strip #1 is wired to strip #2 using the negative (-) solderless point on strip #1, and the positive (+) solderless point on strip #2.
 
Last edited:

Serva

Well-Known Member
Can‘t you upload it? Not possible for me to see anything... but from your description it should be series ^^
 
Can‘t you upload it? Not possible for me to see anything... but from your description it should be series ^^
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5eTEZecnPJIYs9Kr2

So it's just the red driver lead wired to the positive of strip #1, the black driver lead wired to the negative of strip #2, and the both strips wired together using the negative of strip #1 and the positive of strip #2.

I tested this circuit while it was powered on, using the solder contact points and get a reading of ~22v, and amp reading was 1.38a, and the strip turned off when I measured the amps due to the circuit being interrupted.

Also the Gen 2 strips are available for pre-order on digikey and are nearly the same price as the current versions. Is there any benefit in waiting for the Gen 2, or are the current versions just as good for our requirements?
 
Last edited:

Serva

Well-Known Member
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5eTEZecnPJIYs9Kr2

So it's just the red driver lead wired to the positive of strip #1, the black driver lead wired to the negative of strip #2, and the both strips wired together using the negative of strip #1 and the positive of strip #2.

I tested this circuit while it was powered on, using the solder contact points and get a reading of ~22v, and amp reading was 1.38a, and the strip turned off when I measured the amps due to the circuit being interrupted.

Also the Gen 2 strips are available for pre-order on digikey and are nearly the same price as the current versions. Is there any benefit in waiting for the Gen 2, or are the current versions just as good for our requirements?
I have preordered the, already, they are like + 10-15% (13 if I remember correctly) better. Both are possible to use, and I still use the old ones, for veg light, where I don‘t run soo much wattage. Flower cab will get new gen2, because of higher wattage = more energy saving. The have 56 instead of 24 diods, so overall the are better. I have two different status, one saying the strips have already shipped, one saying 12/27/17 meanwhile 12/30/17. I guess new year seems to become more true... but let‘s see! Wait if you can wait, don‘t wait, if you want to construct something now!
 
Last edited:

Serva

Well-Known Member
https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/eb-series/64113

https://ca.mouser.com/Search/m_ProductDetail.aspx?r=709-HLG240H-24A

100K ohm linear potentiometer

Did I buy the wrong driver?

I want 8 of these two ft strips. Possibly go up to 14 one day. Their about 32 watts each
Yes, A version = build in poti 50-100%
B version, pwm, poti, ... dimmable 0-100% (or 10-100%?)

The wattage of each strip will go down, as more strips you connect! 240w driver will always be the same, no matter if you run 8, 14, or 25 strips. But the wattage of each strip will be different! So it won‘t be 32w all the time...

And the diagram is posted like xxx times here in the forum. It is also posted within the last three pages of this thread, so please have a look yourself, or make use of the search function. Sorry (:
 

Seshwaan

Well-Known Member
I guess you have something like 1/2 x 1 ft ? So not more than 1/2 sqft? From my experience, be able to dim them down! Especially let them get used to the light over time. Time and time again, I have dimmed them down, because plants were happier. Looked like calcium def, but with less light, they grow healthy again. I am using 50w over 5-6 sqft for veg. 70w for 2sqft for flower (100 was too much), and 200w for 6 sqft for flower (250w was too much). Just as some reference numbers.

Btw, if you have a proper airflow in your case, mount them as you like. I think it‘s unlikely you max out the strips to 100% (350ma)! For veg I would make sure to have a driver, where you can dim down below 50%, so not the A version of MW driver.

Ahh sweet thanks for the advice brother. Its around 1sq ft, a PC case. Maybe just under 1 sq ft..


Yeah those strips have max of 700ma so il be running them at 50% the whole time. I have the driver that allows dimming with a screw driver but not exactly sure how to be certain they are at 50%?
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
Ahh sweet thanks for the advice brother. Its around 1sq ft, a PC case. Maybe just under 1 sq ft..


Yeah those strips have max of 700ma so il be running them at 50% the whole time. I have the driver that allows dimming with a screw driver but not exactly sure how to be certain they are at 50%?
350ma = 100% (nominal current, how they are designed)
700ma = 200% (maximum rating)

175-350ma = 50-100% (A version can put out a little more 50-110%)
So either get a multimeter, otherwise 50% of the driver is completly in one direction (left), 110% is completly in the other direction (right).
 
Top