Bubblegum glum

For the past 2 months i have had a slight problem with brown spotting, followed by chlorosis and then necrosis but only one-two individual leaves on the compound at any time and only on one plant.
I think the necrotic tissue is caused by a vein sucker of sorts that actually bursts the veins.

Ph of soil is 6.4.
20gal 707 soil with a 2-3" layer of chunky perlite and 2 pounds of mykos extreme.
Ph of unfiltered local water is 8.1.
I use Bio Vega with an adjusted supplemental nitrogen source from Natures Nectar 5-0-0, and Aptus FaSilitator and StartBoost.
Ph of fert solution is 6.4-6.5
Foliar spray with Age Old Organics Kelp and Natures Nectar 5-0-0.
No shade/full sun.
I use shot glasses of borax/sugar for ants, hand picking aphids and parasites. My surrounding garden has a live ladybug colony that I utilize.

The bbg up picture is the lady with the problem. They were both in 7 gallons, 3 weeks ago. I would welcome anyones ideas on the cause of the leaf veins to become brittle and necrotic like this?

anyone?

doesn't look like bugs looks like a nuit lockout or something like that. Anything that comes from the stem out is usually something internal. How about slowing down on some of the external nuits and check your water runoff to see the ph is coming at 6.5 and you have under 1200 ppm. Sometimes we just love our girls a little too much. Good luck

You know why your not getting any reply's? They look fine! Good work! Those things are going too pay off!!!!

A month ago some local kids thought they could make a quick buck and stole 3 of my 4, at the time, ladies. I had started these from seed, hand selecting them from the 11 (2males) I started with and the turdbucket took it as if it was his to start. Well long story short I found him, he returned my two prized ones and has yet to return the last one. Since that time I have upgraded everyone that was in a carriable pot into 20gallon smartpots . Now I believe this works but it has it's drawbacks as one of my reasons for growing this is for alleviation of back pain...

The two that I did get back were adulterated by him and his turdbucket friends with miracle grow sticks, the plant looked "great" but in a not good kinda way. The reason I mention this is due to the fact that the two that were returned, are still receiving residual nutrients from the grow sticks fragments that I could not remove. Could that be a reason this is giving me a false positive?

I have tried a few things in the past few days that seem to show promising results.

1. dug a 14'x6'x1.5' hole to reduce height and container light exposure.
2. added the epsom salt to my regime. (There is a noticeable reduction of new necrotic or chlorotic tissue on old growth.)
3. I use tap water that I aerate a minimum of 3 hours with 1/2 tsp of slf-100 per every 5 gallons of water, prior to nutrient load.

I do think I add quite a bit to my plants, but I would like to think that I get out what I put in. This is the first time that I have grown my medicine and while I was expecting results, I don't really know what I am doing. I don't know if my spacing is wide enough, if I have not cleared the lowers enough. I keep the leaves from touching the soil, and remove slow or stretched growth. This isn't like a tomato, pepper or onion... Help?

Apparently I am in the wrong section. Can an Admin change this to plant problems?

cat torian said:

doesn't look like bugs looks like a nuit lockout or something like that. Anything that comes from the stem out is usually something internal. How about slowing down on some of the external nuits and check your water runoff to see the ph is coming at 6.5 and you have under 1200 ppm. Sometimes we just love our girls a little too much. Good luck

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I was unable to lift them into a flood tray or anything of the likes, so I had to improvise.

I flushed as you recommended but with a few modifications. I used 40 gallons of 24hr areated ph 8.2 water. I added a 1.5 dose of cannazym and 3 teaspoons of slf-100. Ph was reduced to 7.4. I watered with 20 gallons, waited 6 hours and checked 6.5-6.6ph, flushed with other 20 gallons. water out bottom was clear, and any runoff nutrient solution that was on the ground below is gone.

Ph of soil is now 6.7 at three different points in the soil, using a bluelab soil probe. I still water daily or else i get heat wilt.

they look fine to me

if i was you treat for pest anyways as a procotion two i live in the desert i mean the fucken desert dude dunes are my way i moved from the los angles area i didnt think these fuckers could grow but all i do is treat for pests systemic sprays i dont realy feed either and im in coco try to flush out your meadean and start slow i think alot of the times that i could think back on my rust spots and yellowing were ither root rot or those fucken broad mites i hate to say it but they are hard to spot a few yellowing leaves dont mean to much could be old folage time out your preventatives for pest control.. and try to feed nutrients once a week my budy grows green house he does great thats all he does... and he's got big fucken trees that look like apple trees..

thump easy said:

if i was you treat for pest anyways as a procotion two i live in the desert i mean the fucken desert dude dunes are my way i moved from the los angles area i didnt think these fuckers could grow but all i do is treat for pests systemic sprays i dont realy feed either and im in coco try to flush out your meadean and start slow i think alot of the times that i could think back on my rust spots and yellowing were ither root rot or those fucken broad mites i hate to say it but they are hard to spot a few yellowing leaves dont mean to much could be old folage time out your preventatives for pest control.. and try to feed nutrients once a week my budy grows green house he does great thats all he does... and he's got big fucken trees that look like apple trees..

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I hand pick my plants daily. I do not spray unless it is absolutely necessary, my surrounding garden provides a farm for Green Lacewings, Ladybeetles, Parasitic Wasps, along with sacrifice crops for pests to take. I rub any bugs found into the stomata on the underside of the leaf. Is it necessary for me to broad spectrum kill everything? I attempted that approach when I bought my first broccoli starts 3 years ago, and I lost 4 plants due to massive influx of aphid colonies.. Insecticides work only if you keep spraying, and they don't have an off switch. The best thing I have found is borax and sugar for ants. Stop the farmers from getting at your plant and it stops the majority of any pests.

cobyb said:

I hand pick my plants daily. I do not spray unless it is absolutely necessary, my surrounding garden provides a farm for Green Lacewings, Ladybeetles, Parasitic Wasps, along with sacrifice crops for pests to take. I rub any bugs found into the stomata on the underside of the leaf. Is it necessary for me to broad spectrum kill everything? I attempted that approach when I bought my first broccoli starts 3 years ago, and I lost 4 plants due to massive influx of aphid colonies.. Insecticides work only if you keep spraying, and they don't have an off switch. The best thing I have found is borax and sugar for ants. Stop the farmers from getting at your plant and it stops the majority of any pests.

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thats cool i have been growing for about 7 or eight years i have tryied that rought but broad mights are the worst ever more hard core than thrips and spidermights but if that works cool all im saying is pests suck big time.. i dont smoke the flower outside so pritty much spray the moms and the babies let it go and work its waypast its time and clean the flower from residuals thats what i do i hadnet this last year and i payed hell for it.. outside i dont care its all for seeds..

I'm an expert at sickly plants- been growing them for years!!

Your pictures from last Friday show really god looking plants with the occasional sick leaf. Keep measuring your pH to make sure you stay in the proper range. If the leaves at the bottom of the plant start to yellow/die off then for sure you have a nutrient deficiency which might be caused by low/high pH or not enough regular feeding. I don't think you are having residual issues with the grow sticks.

Again, if it is just an occasional sickly leaf your plants and medicine yields should be okay. Sorry but I can't help with your bug issue- I just spray every 2-3 weeks with a Bayer aphid/mealybug insecticide which provides great enjoyment watching the aphids scatter.

IvyPirate said:

I'm an expert at sickly plants- been growing them for years!!

Your pictures from last Friday show really god looking plants with the occasional sick leaf. Keep measuring your pH to make sure you stay in the proper range. If the leaves at the bottom of the plant start to yellow/die off then for sure you have a nutrient deficiency which might be caused by low/high pH or not enough regular feeding. I don't think you are having residual issues with the grow sticks.

Again, if it is just an occasional sickly leaf your plants and medicine yields should be okay. Sorry but I can't help with your bug issue- I just spray every 2-3 weeks with a Bayer aphid/mealybug insecticide which provides great enjoyment watching the aphids scatter.

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The bayer fruit, citrus and vegetable root drench got rid of my aphids. Worked in conjuction wth Terro Ant Baits though. Gotta cut off the head and the body will fall.

thump easy said:

thats cool i have been growing for about 7 or eight years i have tryied that rought but broad mights are the worst ever more hard core than thrips and spidermights but if that works cool all im saying is pests suck big time.. i dont smoke the flower outside so pritty much spray the moms and the babies let it go and work its waypast its time and clean the flower from residuals thats what i do i hadnet this last year and i payed hell for it.. outside i dont care its all for seeds..

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Thank you for your reply.

I agree that pests do have a negative impact, and they can be trying at times, but I have found that spraying in an environment, that I have sustained for 3 years without spraying, is not advantageous to me. All of them have LadyBeetle and GreenLacewing eggs and larva on them in multiple stages of growth.

I am trying to stay as "organic" as I can with the addition of organic liquid concentrate boosters.

thump easy said:

thats cool i have been growing for about 7 or eight years i have tryied that rought but broad mights are the worst ever more hard core than thrips and spidermights but if that works cool all im saying is pests suck big time.. i dont smoke the flower outside so pritty much spray the moms and the babies let it go and work its waypast its time and clean the flower from residuals thats what i do i hadnet this last year and i payed hell for it.. outside i dont care its all for seeds..

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I also hope my reply does not sound as if I know it all. Most of the time, on alot of subjects, I am a subject matter expert. This is not one.

This is going into my body, and I have concerns about using things that might hamper me even more. I have a compromised immune system, suffer from constant debilitating back and leg pain, and migraines.

cobyb said:

I also hope my reply does not sound as if I know it all. Most of the time, on alot of subjects, I am a subject matter expert. This is not one.

This is going into my body, and I have concerns about using things that might hamper me even more. I have a compromised immune system, suffer from constant debilitating back and leg pain, and migraines.

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ow no man i hear you on the pestisides good luck... and i myself am no out door grower just thoughing it out some info but if you like neem oil you'll love this stuff no joke AzaSol its asome right up to harvest just wont take out broad mights it might slow them down but those lil fuckers are hard core!!! good luck that just my 2 cents... totally not outie kinda guy i just do it for seeds.. the trim i dont smoke it some of it is silver sprayed but i only been outdoor a few times and not alot at all...

This might be contrary to belief, but I feed my girls every day. I foliar them with nitrogen as this seems to use up the excess nutrients in the roots. It is my belief that the local lack of humidity, 12hrs of direct sun, 10-25 mph daily winds keep the plant transpiring very quickly. I have yet to see a sign of nutrient stress on them, but I might be lucky. I think I was seeing chlorotic tissue from nitrogen deficiency, but that was corrected by the adding of Natures Nectar Nitrogen 5-0-0 to the nutrient mix and frequent spraying with it also.

Is that too much?