COB spectral research microcab

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Little birdie says all reds...

"Epistar’s infiltration into CREE’s supply chain, controlling production of high efficiency red LED chips and mid-to-low watt sapphire wafer orders"

http://www.ledinside.com/news/2013/9/epistar_infiltrates_cree_supply_chain

google....
cree epistar supply chain
Little devil^^ says "google your shit before posting":fire:.............thanks for the clarification

Your NOT allowed in COBLAND anyways....................still haven't jumped on the hype train???
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
So most if not all deep reds are epistar....just different bins?


Little birdie tells me that Cree outsourced the photo red to Epistar since the beginning..........not 100% sure though. Prefer Osram anyways:P

I will say that FR/730nm and high room temps===== training nightmare.......lol

be safe pos.
Yeah..training sucks..I just want to pop stuff in and out and watch them grow into a natural shape. Otherwise they all look the same to me..with some buds prettier than others of course.

Node spacing wasn't too bad considering this is a stretchy sour diesel. Maybe I'll just take the red out when these are about done and add in a few ww 3500k xmls on the outside of the sink. See how that goes..

Got three different phenos this time..one stretchy sat looking..one bushy one...and one in the middle...nice mix of phenos. Made a early selection based on odor and vigor but if things change and one looks better later I'll try a reveg. Miss having a sour diesel in the stash jar..

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I thought red (660nm) was supposed to reduce stretch.

I was actually thinking of making a veg/clone light with only R and B, avoiding whites specifically to avoid stretch.

I'm not exactly sure what's only theory and what works in the real world, but the common "red stretch, blue short" wisdom seems completely wrong. Have you noticed more stretch using 660nm vs whites alone? Theoretically it should be the opposite.
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Good point..

Just seems the more red I run with the more stretch I get. But my area runs hot so that's a factor also. 640nm - 670nm isn't far from 730nm and there's no doubt the far red induces stretch.

There were a few other examples in the led threads that showed a similar observation...in a more appropriate comparison with both style lights running in an area.

Just by looking back when I input a lot of blue. I still had a little stretch...but less...and much stockier thicker stems. That didn't translate great for dense flowers but the growth went stocky.

But also the metabolism seems faster with the red involved..it's not just stretch. Good example would be the butt whooping the onyx took from a red/white. Pretty sure the cool whites are there to counter the red with what's looks good results. Warm would flower even better I suppose but at an expense of extra stretch.

One other note...red an blue behave differently than red and white. Easier to get stocky growth when you leave all the other wavelengths out, but red and blues haven't normally made huge colas either...

Just my take..way up for debate..lol
 
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stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Good point..

Just seems the more red I run with the more stretch I get. But my area runs hot so that's a factor also. 640nm - 670nm isn't far from 730nm and there's no doubt the far red induces stretch.

There were a few other examples in the led threads that showed a similar observation...in a more appropriate comparison with both style lights running in an area.

Just by looking back when I input a lot of blue. I still had a little stretch...but less...and much stockier thicker stems. That didn't translate great for dense flowers but the growth went stocky.

But also the metabolism seems faster with the red involved..it's not just stretch. Good example would be the butt whooping the onyx took from a red/white. Pretty sure the cool whites are there to counter the red with what's looks good results. Warm would flower even better I suppose but at an expense of extra stretch.

One other note...red an blue behave differently than red and white. Easier to get stocky growth when you leave all the other wavelengths out, but red and blues haven't normally made huge colas either...

Just my take..way up for debate..lol
Me like red leds ...
They serve fine their purpose what so ever...
Me even use one ,in my new light ...
:P

The red is showing me that 12 V fan(s) PSU is ok ..
The warm white ,does the rest ...
PA161672.JPG
PA161675.JPG
Cheers
:peace:
 
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PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
So most if not all deep reds are epistar....just different bins?




Yeah..training sucks..I just want to pop stuff in and out and watch them grow into a natural shape. Otherwise they all look the same to me..with some buds prettier than others of course.

Node spacing wasn't too bad considering this is a stretchy sour diesel. Maybe I'll just take the red out when these are about done and add in a few ww 3500k xmls on the outside of the sink. See how that goes..

Got three different phenos this time..one stretchy sat looking..one bushy one...and one in the middle...nice mix of phenos. Made a early selection based on odor and vigor but if things change and one looks better later I'll try a reveg. Miss having a sour diesel in the stash jar..

View attachment 3274211 View attachment 3274212 View attachment 3274213
Last I know is that Osram's DR chips are "in house", Cree's are a NO on all bins. Epistar makes decent reds for some time now..............guod will fact check me in 1.............2.............


IG pontoon(730nm) and 90-103f temps was eventful to say the least:wink:............the 660nm(pontoon) didn't help my battle that run

good luck grower
 
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PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
.........3
just one big family

where's Kyocera led packages fit in all this that you posted about ? proprietary?..........spec looked very promising for a "white" chip.

all these questions..................................hope i'm not cutting into your "how I met your mother" re-runs you northern trolls like:)
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
And the conversion to white is complete. All lights are now completely white. 3 3000k z2 and 2 4000k z4. My seedlings were stretching so this should stop that. Bodhi heaven mountain for next run.

Needed the 1a driver in my microcab for my veg light project. So all I had left was a 200w 700ma. Way overkill but it works..

Had to put 5 cxa 3070s to meet the minimum voltage requirements. Minimum was 145v on this driver.

Also had a problem getting the resistor dimmer to work...250k wouldn't work for some reason. Looks like 200k was the correct type and the 250k wouldn't do it. So I dialed my adjustable power supply for my fans down to 10v and used a powered 10v 10k dimmer setup. Actually works better like this with a more linear dimming curve. Took me awhile to figure out the setup but like anything it was simple after it was spelled out for me by the reef gurus.

So..power goes from 10w to 130w. Been running it at 50w, 10w each. Very bright and very cool. Eventually I'll use these parts somewhere else..just extra right now.

Dimmable drivers might be more expensive but they are way more flexible.

Long winded post for a simple light but some may find the info useful..

image.jpg
 
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Positivity

Well-Known Member
I like the dock cleat.

Sent from my XT1060 using Rollitup mobile app
Lol..This cab used to be run by two cfls. I used to wrap the wire around that to set the height. One day I'll renovate..


In case anyone's wondering on the driver..it's the same one running in my flower light just 700ma instead of 1050ma.

http://www.futurelightingsolutions.com/en/Technologies/Semiconductors/Lighting-Solutions/LED-Driver-Modules/Pages/7018238-EUC-200S070DT.aspx?ManufacturerName=INVENTRONICS&isFLS=true&IM=0
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
@Positivity

That looks like a cost effective way to drive about six of those... Any downsides in series if one cob fails?
The cxa 3070 are putting out about 25w each at 35v. The driver specs are 143v - to 285v. Same as meanwell I think. Just not sure they have a 700ma version with the high voltage range. Can't remember their specs for the life of me..

Should be good for 7 - 3070s at 700ma. Might do 8 but I haven't tried maxing out the driver yet.

Series should be fine, I haven't had any problems. Think it's the normally recommended way. Parallel is the one you'd need to be more careful with.
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
This has me thinking. If I could find a driver that would run 4 CXA3070 at 1.1 or 1.4 amp that could lower overall parts costs and amount of parts for the fixtures. MMMMM
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
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smokey the cat

Well-Known Member
Now this looks like a new driver that looks like it was designed with us in mind.


http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-LPC-150-power-supply.html
Coming in several flavours:
108V @ 1.4A
148V @ 1.05A
215V @ 0.7A

It's in a plastic case so will be cheaper than the high end HLG series. Guessing $35????

0.7 is enough to get a Vero18 putting out a decent amount of light - nominal 800mA iirc. Easy to run 6 Vero18s in series off a single driver. Cheap and efficient.

Can't recall how cxa voltages go, how useful is the 148V or 215V variants?
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
I have a similar 215V meanwell @700ma (which for 3070 run a bit over 35V), HVGC 150, it's driving my 4x3070's, will do 5 easily enough, will it do 6??
:lol: 8)

Just to add, jic.., this one wont run at 110vac
 
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