COB spectral research microcab

Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Looks like my spectral research cab has hit a sweet spot. I'll be sticking with this for awhile. Super simple but works oh so good. 3 3k and 2 4k...

Really showed me the advantage of running big emitters soft. One 3590 ran way hotter at the same 50 watt level. The heat sink is running at ambient with just a slow fan on top for cooling. Expensive to run them this soft but works great. Ultimate light source for small spaces

Bodhi heaven mountain pheno hunting. This cab will be perfect for running through strains now. May just have to get a little more height but otherwise just right

About a week in flower

image.jpg
 
indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
SomeGuy said:
This has me thinking. If I could find a driver that would run 4 CXA3070 at 1.1 or 1.4 amp that could lower overall parts costs and amount of parts for the fixtures. MMMMM
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not 100% sure of the Vf on your cobs at 1.4A but the HLG-185-C1400
by meanwell puts out 143V. not that spendy for the wattage either, ~.39
cents a watt for mine shipped, 93% on 115v, 94% on higher voltage lines.
 

Attachments

AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
epicfail said:
Looks to be about a 3% difference in efficiency.

View attachment 3284320
#'s courtesy of supraspl​
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The 4000K Vero 18 runs a little higher in efficiency, by a few percent at each level of current I do believe. I've seemed to misplace my written work but the numbers in my head tell me my V18's, 4000k + running at ~1032mA, are somewhere around 36% efficient.

Epic, have you noticed a trend with higher level CCT COBs possessing better efficiencies within the same series, such as the VERO 18?
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
Yes, it has to do with the manufacturing process. All the diodes are blue under the yellowish phosphor layer so the hotter the temperature the more phosphor is used. The extra phosphor acts like a filter letting less photons through ultimately lowering electrical efficiency. The same goes for higher CRI versions, more phosphor (a different mix also) lowers efficiency.

At least this is how I understand it, SDS can explain it better.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
epicfail said:
Yes, it has to do with the manufacturing process. All the diodes are blue under the yellowish phosphor layer so the hotter the temperature the more phosphor is used. The extra phosphor acts like a filter letting less photons through ultimately lowering electrical efficiency. The same goes for higher CRI versions, more phosphor (a different mix also) lowers efficiency.

At least this is how I understand it, SDS can explain it better.
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So you believe that the lower, yellow CCT types, such as 2700K and 3000K, have more yellow phosphor than those higher, blue CCT types, such as 5000K and 6500K? Your reasoning is that the less yellow phosphor (acting as a photon filter), the bluer the light, thus raising the electrical efficiency? If so, I could see your logic.
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
Not all of the phosphor mixes are yellow, every company has their own blend which creates their own spectrum. I am not the one you should be asking about this stuff, mostly what I know I learned here on this very site. I spent about a year reading backlogged threads before I made my first post. Something I recommend most people should do.

This might help explain better than I.
http://www.led-evolution.com/Technology/how-LEDs-work.html

If you're interested in learning about this technical LED/DIY info you should follow read every post/thread by SDS and goud. That should keep you busy for at least a month, some of it was over my head when I started but more and more makes sense as you read along.

@stardustsailor has the info you seek and is better at explaining it. I assume most of his info is correct, if not @goud usually corrects him. :wink:


I found these pictures to help visualize how phosphor mixes work, the first 2 spectras use blue LED's while the second 2 use violet as a base.

PC1.jpg

PC2.jpg​
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
So you believe that the lower, yellow CCT types, such as 2700K and 3000K, have more yellow phosphor than those higher, blue CCT types, such as 5000K and 6500K? Your reasoning is that the less yellow phosphor (acting as a photon filter), the bluer the light, thus raising the electrical efficiency? If so, I could see your logic.
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That pretty much sums it up.
 
Don Geno

Don Geno

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Blumats are great. I used to aerate my res initially but not anymore. Just a dead res with r/o and ca/mg keeps everything purring.

The apple looking product is the remote dimmer, lol. Crucial for dialing in desired power level.

So not much to see here yet. Just a small bubba and a peyote purple at day 1 flower. Initial observation on 2700k is a bit slower growth vs 3k. Extra blue speeds things a small bit more. Still..very healthy. Almost want to say it's easier to grow healthy plants under red heavy spectrums. Just seems all their inherent needs are better met. Flowers are where I'm interested though..

View attachment 3223338
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thats rad!! good thinking
 
O

orangesabc123

Member
Could you phrase for me in a newbie friendly way anything you learned?

Gonna start a super micro soon, curious what spectrums I should be using and I'm curious what strength bulbs I should be using.

I.e. A bunch of 2-5 watters or single 20-50 watter. (For efficiency) (smaller watts also allows more mixing)

After reading this thread with some other information I read, it seems to me(someone who knows nothing about LED) that people have moved away from the blue/red philosophy and into a more holistic view of light. Would I want something like a mix of whites (I think someone said 2700k was good spectrum wise but not efficiency wise?) With some extra blue thrown in to keep the plants stout.(Since micro)
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
orangesabc123 said:
Could you phrase for me in a newbie friendly way anything you learned?

Gonna start a super micro soon, curious what spectrums I should be using and I'm curious what strength bulbs I should be using.

I.e. A bunch of 2-5 watters or single 20-50 watter. (For efficiency) (smaller watts also allows more mixing)

After reading this thread with some other information I read, it seems to me(someone who knows nothing about LED) that people have moved away from the blue/red philosophy and into a more holistic view of light. Would I want something like a mix of whites (I think someone said 2700k was good spectrum wise but not efficiency wise?) With some extra blue thrown in to keep the plants stout.(Since micro)
Click to expand...
Super micro?

Cree xpls...http://www.leddna.com/xp-l/


If you have enough height in the area cobs would also be good..

Mix of white would be great i think. Half 5000k and half 3000k or even 2700k could be very productive and flexible

Just some quick thoughts...busy daze lately

Good luck on the project...leds are great in small spaces
 
O

orangesabc123

Member
Positivity said:
Super micro?

Cree xpls...http://www.leddna.com/xp-l/


If you have enough height in the area cobs would also be good..

Mix of white would be great i think. Half 5000k and half 3000k or even 2700k could be very productive and flexible

Just some quick thoughts...busy daze lately

Good luck on the project...leds are great in small spaces
Click to expand...
Why not smaller watt cob? Is there any efficiency difference one way or the other?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CXB1304-0000-000C0HC227G/CXB1304-0000-000C0HC227G-ND/5124945

Also why 5k? From the graphs 4k looks like it provides the exact same amount of blue and more of higher spectrums.

I was thinking about 30-40watts of 4000k, 2700k and maybe some high blue 6000k+(I haven't seen graphs for this)
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
@orangesabc123

Why not smaller watt cob? Is there any efficiency difference one way or the other?

Either... The Cree tool on their website will help you to find the best emitter for your needs.

Go with veros and you can do it without soldering or holders.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/CXB1304-0000-000C0HC227G/CXB1304-0000-000C0HC227G-ND/5124945

Also why 5k? From the graphs 4k looks like it provides the exact same amount of blue and more of higher spectrums.

I was thinking about 30-40watts of 4000k, 2700k and maybe some high blue 6000k+(I haven't seen graphs for this)

Because I like 5k...:razz:. Seriously... Spectrums are like.. You know... Everyone has one...:razz:

You could probably just go 4k veros and be just fine
 
O

orangesabc123

Member
Positivity said:
Either... The Cree tool on their website will help you to find the best emitter for your needs.

Go with veros and you can do it without soldering or holders.
Click to expand...
What cree tool? I googled it and only found something for full lamps.

Because I like 5k...:razz:. Seriously... Spectrums are like.. You know... Everyone has one...:razz:

You could probably just go 4k veros and be just fine
Click to expand...
Boo!

Fine isn't what you should aim for.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
orangesabc123 said:
What cree tool? I googled it and only found something for full lamps.



Boo!

Fine isn't what you should aim for.
Click to expand...

Does it look like i aim for fine...;)

research the grows in this forum and pick the spectrum that produces your favorite result. The grows are buried under a bunch of ummm...stuff...:grin:.... right now though so you have to dig into a few pages..

Cree tool.....learn how to use it and read datasheets for each led.

http://pct.cree.com/mobile.html
 
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