Confused rookie grower needing some help

nitoker said:

Was I taking to you?what’s wrong is he your bitch?im sure lucky puke can talk for him self you see I don’t get intimidated by o look at how long I’m in here if I need your advice which after 20 years I don’t think so oh did you get that phd of chemistry in uni or google so as I said mind you’re own business fuckin mouth

Click to expand...

Lol sorry man, but you are still just looking more like a fool. I never tried to "intimidate" you. I made the comment because you are a loud mouth that needed to be set straight with science, it had nothing to do with defending anyone.

You can get butt hurt all you want about being wrong, but it won't change the biology of how plants work man. You should try taking a deep breath and actually learning something instead of being a blow hard that tries to look like a tough guy on the internet.

Tommystone said:

Hi,,thanks for your reply,,,I have 1000hps light and 3 x LEDs 300w in a large closet with around 40 potts!
a

Click to expand...

Whats ur temps and what size closet?

nitoker said:

View attachment 4360875

Click to expand...

What happened to your plant? Looks like it never had a chnace to grow

Man this thread went South. Let's stick to trying to help the op vs stroking egos. Relax, don't worry, smoke some homegrown.

Renfro said:

if you use pro mix it's a peat based potting mix that won't provide nutrients persay so you will have to use nutrients. Some people like the Jacks nutrients, cheap, I prefer GH three part, gives me excellent results, massive yields and excellent quality... whatever you choose if you are in pro mix you should run a pH of 6.5 - 6.8.

When you water/feed you should get about 20% runoff out the bottom of the pot to prevent salt buildups. An adult plant will take a feed of somewhere around 1000 - 1200 PPM. If using RO water you will need a calmag product. Calmag gets added first, then micro, grow and bloom if using the flora trio. The chart I put on here is for a 30 gallon mix, so you can divide by 30 to see how many ml/gal. Products are added in that order as well, the Armor Si goes first, then Calimagic...

View attachment 4359258

What kind of lights are you running? Tell us about your grow room setup.

I hope that answered a few questions for you.

Click to expand...

Many told me i dont need to flush the 2 last weeks so i can just water the plant when it looks ready and cut it 4days later?If i dry my buds 7 days and cure them by opening the jar 3 x a day for 10mins is that ok?is there

Tommystone said:

Many told me i dont need to flush the 2 last weeks so i can just water the plant when it looks ready and cut it 4days later?If i dry my buds 7 days and cure them by opening the jar 3 x a day for 10mins is that ok?is there

Click to expand...

Well my opinion of pre harvest flushing is that it's a myth. I feed right up until the end. I do reduce the nitrogen as flowering progresses and I increase Phosphorous and Potassium. Everyone has their own way and you just have to figure out what works best for you. I also don't bother with a cure, I like to dry the bud and smoke it. It tastes amazing and curing just lets the bud lose terpenes (when you smell the bud it's your terpenes evaporating). Again, figure out what works for you. Properly grown bud without a pre harvest flush should taste amazing as soon as it is dry. Resist the temptation to overfeed.

Renfro said:

Well my opinion of pre harvest flushing is that it's a myth. I feed right up until the end. I do reduce the nitrogen as flowering progresses and I increase Phosphorous and Potassium. Everyone has their own way and you just have to figure out what works best for you. I also don't bother with a cure, I like to dry the bud and smoke it. It tastes amazing and curing just lets the bud lose terpenes (when you smell the bud it's your terpenes evaporating). Again, figure out what works for you. Properly grown bud without a pre harvest flush should taste amazing as soon as it is dry. Resist the temptation to overfeed.

Click to expand...

So if i use flora trio.what nutes doseage should i give them at the end?

Well I use a totally custom mix and I am always playing with it.

Here is an example of a good formula one could use as a starting point in their grow, this is for a 30 gallon mix with RO water. So if you divide those mL numbers by 30 you get what you need for 1 gallon of RO water. I use the same formula from week 1 as my veg formula. Cut the PPM with a little extra RO for babies.



For a peat based soiless mix keep the pH between 6.5 and 6.8. If you run this in hydro you want a pH of around 5.7 - 5.8 and in coco 5.9 - 6.1.

Renfro said:

Well I use a totally custom mix and I am always playing with it.

Here is an example of a good formula one could use as a starting point in their grow, this is for a 30 gallon mix with RO water. So if you divide those mL numbers by 30 you get what you need for 1 gallon of RO water. I use the same formula from week 1 as my veg formula. Cut the PPM with a little extra RO for babies.

View attachment 4363619

For a peat based soiless mix keep the pH between 6.5 and 6.8. If you run this in hydro you want a pH of around 5.7 - 5.8 and in coco 5.9 - 6.1.

Click to expand...

What's the N ppm you use in those last two weeks?. I read some cut N and calcium completely in last couple weeks or so, aside from a small amount of N in base maybe.

I don't cut calcium. No clue about the N ppm. There is some in the micro. It just works for me lol.

Tommystone said:

Many told me i dont need to flush the 2 last weeks so i can just water the plant when it looks ready and cut it 4days later?If i dry my buds 7 days and cure them by opening the jar 3 x a day for 10mins is that ok?is there

Click to expand...

since this topic seems to start arguments I'll just put up my personal experience.

are you a connesiour type smoker? before you started growing have you ever bought a bag of some dank ass shit that just stunk the whole house and puckered up your face with flavor?

In soil with good genetics, healthy plants and a slow & even dry, i get the same exact thing without forcing a heavy decline of nutes towards the end, no black ash, no throat burn & no "chemical" smell, just a little chest burn and the flavor of its genetics, most people would be okay with this but if you decide to cure, it just removes that chest lock (the reason we cough) and makes the flavor more pronounced.

It took me over a year to learn which way i prefer to dry, imho it was hard to learn because its a tight/sensitive process that changes due to bud density & how stable your drying area is but once i got it down, out came the "dank" if the genetics had it.

When i rush it or accidentally fuck it up it gets harsh on the throat, not as smooth and never seems to return back to what it should have been, sometimes this happens and at this point, it can help to cure.

One had a two week flush, the other fed to the end. The unflushed bud actually tasted A LOT better and way smoother, probably due to genetics but the point is, unflushed bud is absolutely nothing to worry about. Not my bud btw

Renfro said:

I don't cut calcium. No clue about the N ppm. There is some in the micro. It just works for me lol.

Click to expand...

Ah I must have jumped the gun, figured you were targeting N ppm specifically.

Flowki said:

Ah I must have jumped the gun, figured you were targeting N ppm specifically.

Click to expand...

Well the Micro is required and it has an NPK of 5-0-1. The grow is 2-1-6 and the bloom is 0-5-4. So I am trying to drop nitrogen levels by dropping the grow since I can't drop the micro. As to the PPM of the N I dunno really. Tere is a formula that works for some growers called the Lucas formula. It just uses the Micro and Bloom. The ratio is 1:2. So for example one might mix a gallon using 8mL Micro and 16 mL Bloom. I had good luck with the Lucas formula in flood and drain with a SoG. When I tried it on large trees I found it lacked the Nitrogen they required so I went away from the Lucas formula.

Renfro said:

Well the Micro is required and it has an NPK of 5-0-1. The grow is 2-1-6 and the bloom is 0-5-4. So I am trying to drop nitrogen levels by dropping the grow since I can't drop the micro. As to the PPM of the N I dunno really. Tere is a formula that works for some growers called the Lucas formula. It just uses the Micro and Bloom. The ratio is 1:2. So for example one might mix a gallon using 8mL Micro and 16 mL Bloom. I had good luck with the Lucas formula in flood and drain with a SoG. When I tried it on large trees I found it lacked the Nitrogen they required so I went away from the Lucas formula.

Click to expand...

Ahh I see, just that I've been looking into how little you can actually get away with.

Awesome info you guys can anyone help me diagnose this? It’s week 7 now and I’m wondering if if there’s a blockage or something because drainage went from slowly reducing after each feed to no drainage on yesterday’s feed so I added an extra 1L ph adjusted water no nutes after the regular (3L) feeding also noticed a few of my top leaves yellowing

Ph has been consistently 6.5-6.8 including yesterday’s 1L of H2o

I’d been thinking about doing the flush so close to deciding the time is right but after all these no’s I changed my mind

My feed schedule is
3.25L of H2o
2ml bloom /L
1ml marine /L
1ml bud /L
1ml CaMg/ L

Should I start reducing nutes?
Increasing water?

Might as well throw in some trich pics because I’d really appreciate advice from experienced growers

Oh and these are my nutes

LivingSoils said:

Hey, you could try our organic fertiliser range - these are bespoke products mixed by hand using recipes we have perfected over the years - see our website here: Living Soils

Click to expand...