Continual Slime in DWC

Twerkle · Apr 5, 2015

Terry385 said:
i tried making the tea must of made wrong did not work for me physan 20 cleans things nice but did not work for me still got rot
i pick up a tea ready made works good for me now using whole product line http://www.skunklabshc.com/microbe-tea-info.html
i use the complete and follow their feed chart
View attachment 3388574 View attachment 3388575 View attachment 3388578

I'll have to check that out.

churchhaze said:
OP, you didn't answer when I asked about EC. I see pictures of a starving baby on page 1.

You didn't respond about ditching the molasses. Did you ditch molasses?

Good luck dealing with your slime..

I don't have an EC meter but I stated that I started with 1/4 strength FloraNova Grow nutes. Also the molasses is in the tea for brewing not added to the rez directly. I tried sterile with out any tea (molasses) and with it, neither helped the slime.

churchhaze · Apr 5, 2015

Twerkle said:
I'll have to check that out.

I don't have an EC meter but I stated that I started with 1/4 strength FloraNova Grow nutes. Also the molasses is in the tea for brewing not added to the rez directly. I tried sterile with out any tea (molasses) and with it, neither helped the slime.

Sterilizing dead roots isn't going to keep infection away for long.

Twerkle · Apr 5, 2015

churchhaze said:
Sterilizing dead roots isn't going to keep infection away for long.

Yea I check twice a day to pull off the dead roots because I know it's causing more slime cause they just love the dead roots. I'm getting new white ones out of the sides of the net pot all the time but as soon as they hit the water they get slimed even if there is none in the water and then they die.

churchhaze · Apr 5, 2015

I can not see where it says you started with 1/4 FloraNova. The first page of this thread says "Nutes: House & Garden Aqua Flakes".

Root rot happens for 2 main reasons.

1) Root cells don't get enough oxygen, get mushy, and die
2) Root cells don't get a proper nutrient balance, get mushy, and die.

Rot then infects the weak roots, and the weak roots are blamed on the rot.

Yet everyone on RIU is chasing their tails trying to fix the issue with sterilization and magic teas, which I never used, and never had root rot.

Terry385 · Apr 5, 2015

FloraNova Grow

that it's rite there cant use in DWC

ShirkGoldbrick · Apr 5, 2015

churchhaze said:
Sterilizing dead roots isn't going to keep infection away for long.

I second that. Op, you have to remove the dead roots and the slime too. The bioslime protects the bacteria from normal levels of the disenfectants and you're only going to fight a losing battle.

PHYSICALLY remove the slime and dead roots from the plants and soak them for 10 minutes in physan 20 per the bottles instruction for cuttings.

Next you have to take EVERYTHING apart of your setup with no plants in it. I mean everything. Remove all slime physically. Next mix up a batch of physan 20 at 1.5oz per gallon of water and spray everything down, wait 10 minutes and wipe it down. do this twice. Follow all safety and precaution instructions on the bottle. You can try soaking any airstones in this solution if you can' take them apart but if you can't take them apart you're better off throwing them out and using new ones.

Now that there's no slime and that everythings been sterilized with quartenary ammonium compounds you can refill and dose to 1ppm of free chlorine with bleach or calcium hypochlorite. Bleach may provide too much sodium depending on your water quality and the time between reservoir changes. Check this with a pool test strip twice a day..1ppm total chlorine isn't going to do crap it has to be free chlorine. Keep pH at 6 if you go lower you will off gas chlorine. It will evaporate/be used up so you have to check twice a day. Don't use GH pH down or any other citric acid containing products.

Tests on overhead sprinkler watered small woody ornamental plants that are chlorine sensitive showed they could withstand up to 2.5ppm of free chlorine before suffering any phytotoxicity. As for what you're doing (bottom feeding) the only tests I know of showed 4ppm threshold for phytotoxicity and I'm unsure on the plants sensitivity. If you just keep 1ppm of free chlorine your ORP should stay high enough to keep the slime from coming back. You'll probably have an ORP of ~600 as a higher EC will lower ORP per my experiments. This should be adequate.

churchhaze · Apr 5, 2015

If you're still using FloraNova Grow 1/4 strength, I'd up it to 1/2 strength. Not sure what EC that will give you, but at least it will be twice as strong as whatever was producing the plants shown on the first page. Assuming that's the issue, the roots should just harden up as the plants osmotic water pressure rises.

Twerkle · Apr 5, 2015

Shirk, thanks this is really informative. Do you suggest running this till the infection is gone or is this something you would run continually till harvest?

ShirkGoldbrick said:
I second that. Op, you have to remove the dead roots and the slime too. The bioslime protects the bacteria from normal levels of the disenfectants and you're only going to fight a losing battle.

PHYSICALLY remove the slime and dead roots from the plants and soak them for 10 minutes in physan 20 per the bottles instruction for cuttings.

Next you have to take EVERYTHING apart of your setup with no plants in it. I mean everything. Remove all slime physically. Next mix up a batch of physan 20 at 1.5oz per gallon of water and spray everything down, wait 10 minutes and wipe it down. do this twice. Follow all safety and precaution instructions on the bottle. You can try soaking any airstones in this solution if you can' take them apart but if you can't take them apart you're better off throwing them out and using new ones.

Now that there's no slime and that everythings been sterilized with quartenary ammonium compounds you can refill and dose to 1ppm of free chlorine with bleach or calcium hypochlorite. Bleach may provide too much sodium depending on your water quality and the time between reservoir changes. Check this with a pool test strip twice a day..1ppm total chlorine isn't going to do crap it has to be free chlorine. Keep pH at 6 if you go lower you will off gas chlorine. It will evaporate/be used up so you have to check twice a day. Don't use GH pH down or any other citric acid containing products.

Tests on overhead sprinkler watered small woody ornamental plants that are chlorine sensitive showed they could withstand up to 2.5ppm of free chlorine before suffering any phytotoxicity. As for what you're doing (bottom feeding) the only tests I know of showed 4ppm threshold for phytotoxicity and I'm unsure on the plants sensitivity. If you just keep 1ppm of free chlorine your ORP should stay high enough to keep the slime from coming back. You'll probably have an ORP of ~600 as a higher EC will lower ORP per my experiments. This should be adequate.

Chruch, I switched to House and Garden Aqua Flakes after I found out that FN Grow has some organics in it. I'm currently feeding it according to their DWC feed schedule. I'll post some more recent pictures to get a better grasp on what they look like now.

churchhaze said:
If you're still using FloraNova Grow 1/4 strength, I'd up it to 1/2 strength. Not sure what EC that will give you, but at least it will be twice as strong as whatever was producing the plants shown on the first page. Assuming that's the issue, the roots should just harden up as the plants osmotic water pressure rises.

ShirkGoldbrick · Apr 5, 2015

I'd run 1ppm free chlorine continuous. Once the plants recover you can probably switch to checking once a day. Chlorine can form compounds with ammonia called chloramines though and these don't evaporate fast enough so they can build up to toxic levels. Luckily for you, it's easy to detect, your water will smell like a public pool... Although if you have no nitrogen in ammonium form in your nutes this won't happen.

Edit:typo

Twerkle · Apr 5, 2015

ShirkGoldbrick · Apr 5, 2015

The hydroton may make it impossible to get all the slime, just so you know

Twerkle · Apr 5, 2015

ShirkGoldbrick said:
The hydroton may make it impossible to get all the slime, just so you know

Yea i learned that the hard way the first time, I tried to clean it all out had to ditch all the hydroton and replant. Is there a better medium to user besides hydroton?

I gave it a big dose of tea before 12 hours before I cleaned it and it really ate up the slime. I'm cleaning out all the slime now and going to give its some fresh water and nutes and then let it sit with Physan 20 after the hydroshop opens tomorrow. I tried the chlorine before and it didn't work so maybe I wasn't at the correct ppm. I hope the hydro store has testing strips.

ShirkGoldbrick · Apr 5, 2015

I doubt they will, a pool store or big box store should. Nothing really better.. You don't need a medium really except maybe for support.

What chlorine you gave probably wasn't enough. Except if the slime is still there physically it still won't be enough to kill it.

sqlb3rn · Apr 6, 2015

great white is good stuff... shouldn't have a problem with that. I have been fucked/slimed by mycogrow 3 times, so I don't recommend it.

are you using tap water having chlorine? it can kill the bennies if so.

Twerkle · Apr 7, 2015

sqlb3rn said:
great white is good stuff... shouldn't have a problem with that. I have been fucked/slimed by mycogrow 3 times, so I don't recommend it.

are you using tap water having chlorine? it can kill the bennies if so.

I'm using filtered water from the store and then inoculate the rez which have tap water. Usually the tap water runs for a day with nutes before I dose to let the chlorine evaporate out. I just switched to a 24hr brew with less molasses and see if that helps. I'm also trying to use a air stone instead of a venturian air/water pump.

Also I just ran Physan 20 for 12 hours and after I drained found some dead slime on the sides of the bucket even though I cleaned everything before running the Physan 20. So I think running for 12 hours really knocked the slime out. I got it running tap water and nutes right now while I brew the tea. Going to inoculate it tomorrow. Everything is looking good though, new white roots coming out of the side and now slime today.

justugh · Apr 7, 2015

Twerkle said:
I'm using filtered water from the store and then inoculate the rez which have tap water. Usually the tap water runs for a day with nutes before I dose to let the chlorine evaporate out. I just switched to a 24hr brew with less molasses and see if that helps. I'm also trying to use a air stone instead of a venturian air/water pump.

Also I just ran Physan 20 for 12 hours and after I drained found some dead slime on the sides of the bucket even though I cleaned everything before running the Physan 20. So I think running for 12 hours really knocked the slime out. I got it running tap water and nutes right now while I brew the tea. Going to inoculate it tomorrow. Everything is looking good though, new white roots coming out of the side and now slime today.

order this and use it in the system when u top off the water
http://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Hydroguard-Bacillus-Inoculant-1-Gallon/dp/B00IGFH3FG
it is a gallon they sell smaller size
http://www.botanicare.com/Hydroguard-P194.aspx
info about it

this will take care of the slime .........u have a micro imbalance .......the slime is actually wrong kind of micro growing off the food in the water these i linked u will stop it .........but u need to keep using them tho out the whole grow ........when u are done get some bleach water and wash the pepples that come the basket and the bucket airstone and air line (rem after u bleach to rinse everything well and to soak the pepples in PHed water for next time)

Twerkle · Apr 7, 2015

justugh said:
order this and use it in the system when u top off the water
http://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Hydroguard-Bacillus-Inoculant-1-Gallon/dp/B00IGFH3FG
it is a gallon they sell smaller size
http://www.botanicare.com/Hydroguard-P194.aspx
info about it

this will take care of the slime .........u have a micro imbalance .......the slime is actually wrong kind of micro growing off the food in the water these i linked u will stop it .........but u need to keep using them tho out the whole grow ........when u are done get some bleach water and wash the pepples that come the basket and the bucket airstone and air line (rem after u bleach to rinse everything well and to soak the pepples in PHed water for next time)

I'm using a Bacillus inoculate already in my tea (Great White). I think you are right about the imbalance. I Physan 20'd the whole setup and brewing some fresh tea now. Going to innoculate again tomorrow.

ShirkGoldbrick · Apr 9, 2015

Update?

Aussiedwc · Apr 10, 2015

Hey there I'm new to RIU I have a 3 week old female from seed in Dwc with a 5gallon per minute air pump and 2x 120cm flexible air diffusers joined and made into a spiral to cover whole bottom of the bucket. Most of the roots are healthy but the ones deep enough to be in the water are taking on a orange tint? I'm using canna vega a+b cyco silica cyco uptake and was going to use cyco ryzofuel the root booster but I added it at the start and it caused mega foam build up? Any input would be great

ShirkGoldbrick · Apr 10, 2015

Aussiedwc said:
Hey there I'm new to RIU I have a 3 week old female from seed in Dwc with a 5gallon per minute air pump and 2x 120cm flexible air diffusers joined and made into a spiral to cover whole bottom of the bucket. Most of the roots are healthy but the ones deep enough to be in the water are taking on a orange tint? I'm using canna vega a+b cyco silica cyco uptake and was going to use cyco ryzofuel the root booster but I added it at the start and it caused mega foam build up? Any input would be great

Orange roots sounds like dye in the nutes. Foam buildup is either from a disinfectant or beneficial bacteria. Welcome to RIU, please start a new thread next time.

Continual Slime in DWC

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