Budds Love
Member
also when your plant starts budding you can cut off the bud just like topping and 2 budds will grow back. insted of having a single bud. doubling yield.
True but it will stunt your growth and will take awhile for the plants to continue budding so if you have a long flowering strain or your in a short season area etc i wouldnt do it.also when your plant starts budding you can cut off the bud just like topping and 2 budds will grow back. insted of having a single bud. doubling yield.
hey man they look good! do you have to worry about flyovers and shit? how many total ladies are you sporting in that patch?
keep it gooing greeen
Well, if so, then I just exacerbated the problem today when I gave it a gallon of water. And the forecast calls for rain in another two days, so this plant may be screwed.looks over watered.
it does... or is there something else suffocating the roots? How compacted is that soil mixture? Clay holds water extremely well remember? You have to break it up really well to allow for proper drainage and gas exchanges. If not broken up enough, or the soil has pockets, the roots could suffocate or rot.looks over watered.
also when your plant starts budding you can cut off the bud just like topping and 2 budds will grow back. insted of having a single bud. doubling yield.
I didn't take the time to read the whole thread but here goes anyway - more than likely it's overwatered inducing root rot. When planting perennials in heavy clay, you should backfill with the native soil, same with annuals unless you can provide internal drainage. Never amend it or you get your own built in pot which will not drain. The roots will forever be contained in the "good" soil. An auger will "glaze" the sides and bottom of a hole, you done created a plastic pot. I always fracture my holes either with a 3 point chisel on a tractor or by hand using a pick or large flat headed screwdriver. You want to scarify/fracture the bottom and sides of the holes. You should have done a drainage test by digging a hole, pouring a gallon or so of water in it and noting how long it took to drain. Food for future thought.It has received the same watering schedule as the rest of the plants and has the same type of soil, a mixture of native clay, miracle grow soil, peat moss, manure and mushroom compost.
Yeh, thankfully it didn't storm like it was supposed to do, so if the weather continues to cooperate the one stressed female should recover. All the rest are doing fine.Hi bro, checked out your thread and found it quite interesting, especially since your in an area I probably know well, I grew up in that neck of the woods. As well as I'm thinking of deserting CA and returning to family still in the SAV/Hinesville area. Been away 27 years now, went back for first visit ever last year. I will surely be making an undertaking similar to yours if I do make the move.
Your girls are looking good, hope you got your over-water situation worked out. I'll be ghosting your thread to see how it turns out.
Have you considered insect control? I treated mine with a soil drench of orthene (acephate) and Merit (imidacloprid). Both systemics which will control such suckers as thrips, mites, aphids, etc.Yeh, thankfully it didn't storm like it was supposed to do, so if the weather continues to cooperate the one stressed female should recover. All the rest are doing fine.
I have been using a commercial brand insect soap spray which appears to have done an ok job. I recently ran out of it and decided to use some Sevin Dust which from past experience with my vegetables I know does an excellent job of insect control. While I am fine with using the dust during vegetative growth, I really do not want to use it all during flowering, so I think I am going to get some BT and start spraying with it.Have you considered insect control? I treated mine with a soil drench of orthene (acephate) and Merit (imidacloprid). Both systemics which will control such suckers as thrips, mites, aphids, etc.