Dehumidifier help!! Bud rot set in

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xrdamianxr

Well-Known Member
Lost 2 plants to bud rot in last week Looking for recommendations on a new dehumidifier.. just spent $70 on one that stated 500 cubic feet. it only dropped my RH 5% from 80 to 75. moneys pretty tight right now so I'd like to only make this purchase one more time while still not breaking the bank at $400+ . To hopeful?
room dimensions are 2'x5'x8' (feet)
Temps. 74-88F
RH 60-75%
Outdoor temps ar 70-100F.
Temps in the house 78F 45% RH
I've got 4" infinity exhausting outside. 3 6" stationary fans. 3" pc fan in take. ( pulling air from house to grow)
If anyone could recomend one that'll do the job or some tricks to get my RH down ALOT more that would be cool
 

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Hobbes

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
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As far as bud rot, mold and powdery mildew go you could pick up an AirROS, it puts out hydrogen trioxide which will kill all the afore mentioned plagues.

Home - AirROS by SAGE Industrial
The best surface and air purifier for cannabis growers. Destroy mold, pathogens and odor control products with our AirROS units. Contact us today to learn more about how our product can help you stop pathogens including powdery mildew!
airrosshield.com
airrosshield.com

.
 
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xrdamianxr

Well-Known Member
Hobbes said:
.

As far as bud rot, mold and powdery mildew go you could pick up an AirROS, it puts out hydrogen trioxide which will kill all the afore mentioned plagues.

Home - AirROS by SAGE Industrial
The best surface and air purifier for cannabis growers. Destroy mold, pathogens and odor control products with our AirROS units. Contact us today to learn more about how our product can help you stop pathogens including powdery mildew!
airrosshield.com
airrosshield.com

.
Click to expand...
Will look it up now
 
MidnightSun72

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
As rocket soul mentioned you gotta move the air inside the tent around too.

Your House RH is good and low enough you should be able to exchange the air enough to keep your tent at 50-60 RH which is fine for flower. I'd leave a passive opening at one end of the tent on the low side. And run the fan on a vent at the opposite wall on the high side so you are essentially sucking the around across the longest distance in the tent to exchange the most amount of air.

Growing in a 4x8 tent I had 8 clip on fans running an 8" inline fan just blowing into the roof of the tent and 2 16" pedestal fans I mounted without the base in there too. The corners of a tent can really have some dead air so you can never have too much air movement (within reason lol).
 
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xrdamianxr

Well-Known Member
MidnightSun72 said:
As rocket soul mentioned you gotta move the air inside the tent around too.

Your House RH is good and low enough you should be able to exchange the air enough to keep your tent at 50-60 RH which is fine for flower. I'd leave a passive opening at one end of the tent on the low side. And run the fan on a vent at the opposite wall on the high side so you are essentially sucking the around across the longest distance in the tent to exchange the most amount of air.

Growing in a 4x8 tent I had 8 clip on fans running an 8" inline fan just blowing into the roof of the tent and 2 16" pedestal fans I mounted without the base in there too. The corners of a tent can really have some dead air so you can never have too much air movement (within reason lol).
Click to expand...
Oops I've got 1 ocillating fan on the floor. And 2 clip ons at canopy height on opposite sides. I will be adding more now
thumper60 said:
Do you vent 24-7 if so your wasting time an money to run dehuy. lights out turn off vent an run the dehuy.
Click to expand...
I do run exhaust 24-7. Shit. Well put it on the timer with the lights and diddo with dehuy. give it a shot thanks. My carbon filter is hooked used to exhaust. Will room start to smell with that off at night?
 
Southside112

Southside112

Well-Known Member
Hobbes said:
.

As far as bud rot, mold and powdery mildew go you could pick up an AirROS, it puts out hydrogen trioxide which will kill all the afore mentioned plagues.

Home - AirROS by SAGE Industrial
The best surface and air purifier for cannabis growers. Destroy mold, pathogens and odor control products with our AirROS units. Contact us today to learn more about how our product can help you stop pathogens including powdery mildew!
airrosshield.com
airrosshield.com

.
Click to expand...
How much are they Hobbes ? Couldn't find it on their website.
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Once you have bud rot on one plant all you're doing with those fans inside the tent is spreading the spores around which is counter productive.

A room that size could just use passive intake at the bottom and a 400 cfm fan pulling air from the top and exhausting outside of the room. That way all the air that moves will be going from the bottom to the top and exhausting. Instead of blowing the spores around you'll be pulling them out. I use a 4 x 4 tent and that's the only air movement I use. You want air exchange more than just blowing it around. I stopped using a stationary fan in the tent a long time ago.
 
Hobbes

Hobbes

Well-Known Member
.

How much are they Hobbes ? Couldn't find it on their website.


I paid $3,200 USD for my model (the smallest).

Its expensive but I got caught with a tent full of powdery mildew for the second time, after burning sulfur.

I thought that it would be a panacea but I haven`t completely eliminated my PM in late flower, just confining it to the bottom fan leaves.

.
 
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xrdamianxr

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
Once you have bud rot on one plant all you're doing with those fans inside the tent is spreading the spores around which is counter productive.

A room that size could just use passive intake at the bottom and a 400 cfm fan pulling air from the top and exhausting outside of the room. That way all the air that moves will be going from the bottom to the top and exhausting. Instead of blowing the spores around you'll be pulling them out. I use a 4 x 4 tent and that's the only air movement I use. You want air exchange more than just blowing it around. I stopped using a stationary fan in the tent a long time ago.
Click to expand...
Interesting :wall: "with those fans inside the tent is spreading the spores around which is counter productive." Was my original thought/worry. Lol.
I love this forum. Just goes to show what works for one might not be best for others. :wall:
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
xrdamianxr said:
Interesting :wall: "with those fans inside the tent is spreading the spores around which is counter productive." Was my original thought/worry. Lol.
I love this forum. Just goes to show what works for one might not be best for others. :wall:
Click to expand...
I don't understand why anyone would want to be blowing the spores around will contaminate any plant in the room covering them with spores that you can't see with the naked eye. Wind spreads the mold it doesn't mitigate it at all. You need to keep the humidity and temperature in the right zone so that you don't have an environment where it can thrive.

"Botrytis infection only becomes visible after two or three weeks. If the infection can be seen with the naked eye, the mold will already have penetrated the plant. At that point, there is little point in using a fungicide."

"It is also saprophytic: it can feed on non-living organic debris. This means that it can also affect crops that have already been harvested!"

"It is very important to get rid of any parts of the plant that are infected with Botrytis. The infected parts should be removed and immediately put in a plastic bag. If you need to remove the whole plant, you should follow these steps: first, put a bag over the plant without touching it. Then take the plant out of the ground, including the roots. After that, remove the bag and the plant from the growing area. Before you go back to the growing area, wash your hands and change your clothes. You must never allow the infected plant or parts of the plant to come into contact with other plants, because even the slightest contact will send clouds of gray spores into the air. These spores will then land on healthy plants which may then get infected."

Botrytis Cinerea: a highly infectious crop killer - in detail | CANNA Gardening USA

It is very important to get rid of any parts of the plant that are infected with Botrytis. The infected parts should be removed and immediately put in a plastic bag.
www.cannagardening.com www.cannagardening.com
 
X

xrdamianxr

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
I don't understand why anyone would want to be blowing the spores around will contaminate any plant in the room covering them with spores that you can't see with the naked eye. Wind spreads the mold it doesn't mitigate it at all. You need to keep the humidity and temperature in the right zone so that you don't have an environment where it can thrive.

"Botrytis infection only becomes visible after two or three weeks. If the infection can be seen with the naked eye, the mold will already have penetrated the plant. At that point, there is little point in using a fungicide."

"It is also saprophytic: it can feed on non-living organic debris. This means that it can also affect crops that have already been harvested!"

"It is very important to get rid of any parts of the plant that are infected with Botrytis. The infected parts should be removed and immediately put in a plastic bag. If you need to remove the whole plant, you should follow these steps: first, put a bag over the plant without touching it. Then take the plant out of the ground, including the roots. After that, remove the bag and the plant from the growing area. Before you go back to the growing area, wash your hands and change your clothes. You must never allow the infected plant or parts of the plant to come into contact with other plants, because even the slightest contact will send clouds of gray spores into the air. These spores will then land on healthy plants which may then get infected."

Botrytis Cinerea: a highly infectious crop killer - in detail | CANNA Gardening USA

It is very important to get rid of any parts of the plant that are infected with Botrytis. The infected parts should be removed and immediately put in a plastic bag.
www.cannagardening.com www.cannagardening.com
Click to expand...
I had 2 plants 6 weeks into flower along with 6 others 2 weeks into flower.
I found bud rot on the 2. Bagged and trashed. But all plants were touching at some point or another. No signs of rot on the 2 week flowers so holding off adding more clones till I get my humidity under control. In Hope's these 6 avoid the rot. I have clones on stand by
 
DCcan

DCcan

Well-Known Member
I'm trying something new. Foliar application will live for weeks, eats just about anything. The wetable powder will store well for over a year, vs some fungi are only good for a couple months.
Haven't tried it on flowering yet, but the whole outdoor garden soil and surrounding area has been treated. It should stay endemic in the soil afterward.

Pre-treated the growing medium, foliar and seeds so far, and couldn't get any damping off no matter how much watering.

 
Lordhooha

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
xrdamianxr said:
Lost 2 plants to bud rot in last week Looking for recommendations on a new dehumidifier.. just spent $70 on one that stated 500 cubic feet. it only dropped my RH 5% from 80 to 75. moneys pretty tight right now so I'd like to only make this purchase one more time while still not breaking the bank at $400+ . To hopeful?
room dimensions are 2'x5'x8' (feet)
Temps. 74-88F
RH 60-75%
Outdoor temps ar 70-100F.
Temps in the house 78F 45% RH
I've got 4" infinity exhausting outside. 3 6" stationary fans. 3" pc fan in take. ( pulling air from house to grow)
If anyone could recomend one that'll do the job or some tricks to get my RH down ALOT more that would be cool
Click to expand...
If that’s a tent you need to dehumidify the room in which it’s in. Your house must be humid as hell to be honest. But a decent dehumidifier to drop it enough would be 600- almost 1k those small ones won’t do anything for you honestly.
 
magnetik

magnetik

Well-Known Member
I use a 50 pint Fridgidaire and added a condensate pump. I think it was under $350 total. I added the condensate pump to purge the water out when triggered so no more emptying buckets and can have it on full blast if I need to drastically drop the humidity. It got pretty good reviews all around the interwebs/youtube.
 
Dryxi

Dryxi

Well-Known Member
I live in a humid area and found that even though I spent $1200 on a commercial dehumidifier, it couldn't keep humidity in check for my tent in that room. Tents are really stuck with that ambient humidity inside whatever room it's in and even with the dehumidifier, the rooms humidity would fluctuate greatly due to whatever the humidity is outside. I was also venting 24/7 through my carbon filter, and I am pretty sure that greatly affected the ability of the dehumidifier to dry the space effectively. Everyone's space is different but I grew to dislike my tent thanks to humidity control issues (compared to a grow room which I eventually invested in)
 
Fishbulb

Fishbulb

Well-Known Member
xrdamianxr said:
Lost 2 plants to bud rot in last week Looking for recommendations on a new dehumidifier.. just spent $70 on one that stated 500 cubic feet. it only dropped my RH 5% from 80 to 75. moneys pretty tight right now so I'd like to only make this purchase one more time while still not breaking the bank at $400+ . To hopeful?
room dimensions are 2'x5'x8' (feet)
Temps. 74-88F
RH 60-75%
Outdoor temps ar 70-100F.
Temps in the house 78F 45% RH
I've got 4" infinity exhausting outside. 3 6" stationary fans. 3" pc fan in take. ( pulling air from house to grow)
If anyone could recomend one that'll do the job or some tricks to get my RH down ALOT more that would be cool
Click to expand...
Sorry for the bad news save what u can the rest is for the bin.


Good intake and exit air is the key to not getting mold I run my fan 24/7 and stationary fan in the room when lights are on
 
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