Designing a New Grow Area

superstoner1 · Nov 13, 2012

Rrog said:
SS1, this is at the heart of my question. So you allow the whole facility (Flower & Veg room) to warm up during the Flower Room's "day," when CO2 is going, then at "night" the temps drop for both rooms. That makes sense. Thanks for that.

That brings me to humidity. I understood that higher Rh was good for veg, not so great for flower. Do you fart around trying to increase humidity in veg room or either room during the CO2 "day?"

NickNasty - no idea where the well will be in relation to the room or the distance from the house, but wanted to avoid condensation issues. As a side note, I will be installing geothermal in the rest of the house, but diverting some to the grow room would be less stealthy than the mini-split I figured. And I can't cool the room on geothermal without a shit-ton of $$ for the geothermal converter

my veg room really doesnt change much, 75-77, because the temp controller keeps it there. the intakes are low, bringing the coolest air from the flower room, and exhausting from the top. i keep my dehumidifier in flower room and both rooms stay a constant 45-50, yes veg can go 60+ with good airflow but i wanted less equipment. and using only t5s helps with temp control

Rrog · Nov 13, 2012

The more I read, the less important low humidity is as an issue to me. Thanks for helping bringing me to Earth on that.

What about the control panel? Most I see have a bank of outlets attached, but you'd need some heavy gauge 12-3 to run to these ballasts, no? Does anyone hard wire the dedicated outlets in the flower room to the controller in the veg room?

superstoner1 · Nov 13, 2012

low humidity can be a serious issue. you really want to keep it above 40.

NickNasty · Nov 13, 2012

superstoner1 said:
low humidity can be a serious issue. you really want to keep it above 40.

Does that come from experience cause I have been doing this for 12 yrs and never heard of anybody having trouble with their plants cause of low humidity. They will drink more water but I don't think that is a bad thing. The only time I have seen low humidity hurt a plant is when unrooted clones are kept at too low of humidity.

Rrog · Nov 13, 2012

Well, I really appreciate the opinions. This could derail quickly, so let's assume the humidity level is acceptable, whatever that is. If we could leave it at that, I'll send you both something other than coal in your stocking this year.

What about the control panel? Most I see have a bank of outlets attached, but you'd need some heavy gauge 12-3 to run to these ballasts, no? Does anyone hard wire the dedicated outlets in the flower room to the controller in the veg room?

superstoner1 · Nov 13, 2012

NickNasty said:
Does that come from experience cause I have been doing this for 12 yrs and never heard of anybody having trouble with their plants cause of low humidity. They will drink more water but I don't think that is a bad thing. The only time I have seen low humidity hurt a plant is when unrooted clones are kept at too low of humidity.

it wastes a lot of energy for the plant to keep moving water, energy that is first taken from bud production. yes, it is something i have tested, my room is very sealed and very controllable, and when rh was below 30-35 yield was considerably lower and overall size of buds was not impressive. this was on strains i have done many tests with over the last few years and have lots of experience with.

hic · Nov 13, 2012

humidity at about 50% seems a happy medium to me that's what I try keeping my room at.

Rrog · Nov 14, 2012

Anyone have any thoughts on the control panel?

abe supercro · Nov 14, 2012

same plan here.. have control panel in box, not sure what brand. takes up to 8 ballasts on 50 amp 220 line. buddies been using the same one out of NGW catalogue, been working perfect. eliminates many cords and unsynchronized timers. a separate corner or closet may be nice due to heat, however AC should neutralize added heat.

superstoner1 · Nov 14, 2012

all these total room controllers and light controllers just are not needed and most are way overpriced. the only control sensor/switch in my room i did not build myself is the recycle timer for my pumps.

Rrog · Nov 14, 2012

SS1 did you follow a DIY plan of some sort? I'm just growing in soil, so no reservoirs, pumps, etc.

Seems like light timers, as well as CO2 monitor / timer, high temp shutoff, delay start for power outage, CO detector. Also a thermostat for the veg room to pull cool air from flower room.

kindfarms420 · Nov 14, 2012

i know you said you were thinking about using co2 .. if you have a sealed room with ur mini split you will have to run co2 otherwise your plants wont have any ..i cool 4k watts with a 24k mini split and i could add another easy without it getting too hot my temps 6 inches below are the lamp are 75-77 and i can hold my hand an inch away from it and hold it there for how ever long i want... IMO aircooled lights suck ass and your definatly going the right direction getting a mini split and sealing that shit up.. good luck man

Rrog · Nov 14, 2012

Thanks KF420.

superstoner1 · Nov 14, 2012

i ran my sealed room for over two years before adding co2 and was pulling 20-25oz every three weeks.

Rrog · Nov 14, 2012

Any ideas on control panel plans?

Anyone use www.growtronix.com to control a system?

kindfarms420 · Nov 14, 2012

superstoner1 said:
i ran my sealed room for over two years before adding co2 and was pulling 20-25oz every three weeks.

can you explain to me how the hell you kept plants alive in a sealed room with out co2? how did your plants get oxygen?because if you ran a sealed room and the a/c was just recirculating your plants wouldn't ever get air except when you open the door... in my grow rooms the air get recirculated and the same "air" is in my room the entire flower period i get fresh oxygen because the plants take in co2 and release oxygen... are you sure your room was "sealed"?

kindfarms420 · Nov 14, 2012

its also a proven fact that plants stop growing when the PPM in the air is below 150

Rrog · Nov 14, 2012

OK, but for the sake of the OP (me), if it's OK let's not get too caught up in this. My room will be sealed, have AC and CO2. Let's go from there, maybe?

kindfarms420 · Nov 14, 2012

Rrog said:
OK, but for the sake of the OP (me), if it's OK let's not get too caught up in this. My room will be sealed, have AC and CO2. Let's go from there, maybe?

im not trying to start anything with anybody was just stating facts.. sorry man im not somebody thats a troll and shit i just dont want people to be mis informed ... proceed

superstoner1 · Nov 14, 2012

kindfarms420 said:
can you explain to me how the hell you kept plants alive in a sealed room with out co2? how did your plants get oxygen?because if you ran a sealed room and the a/c was just recirculating your plants wouldn't ever get air except when you open the door... in my grow rooms the air get recirculated and the same "air" is in my room the entire flower period i get fresh oxygen because the plants take in co2 and release oxygen... are you sure your room was "sealed"?

plants dont need oxygen, they make it. i have to believe it was from me just being in the room and working. when i did get my minigen and ppm3 controller( with no other room changes, and i mean very sealed room) i had the controller installed for a few days before gen and it would easily go over 2000ppm after being in the room for 20-30 mins. thats why they say plants like to be talked to, actually they could care less they just like the co2 we produce. and this was not to misinform, my grow was very documented on another site that many here can verify.

Designing a New Grow Area

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