Digital Ballasts....arey they worth it?

AiCPearlJam

Well-Known Member
Just wondering if they are worth the $160+ price tag. What are the advantages besides light weight, not as hot and it's digital?
 

T.H.Cammo

Well-Known Member
Thet're quieter, they use a little less electricity and they're supposed to be a bit easier on the bulbs (giving a little longer life). Let's use a 400 watter for example. The bulb will still burn 400 watts (no difference), but the ballast itself uses less energy. I don't remember, right off hand, if they use 10% less then normal ballasts; or if they use 10% of what a normal ballast uses. Let's just say a normal (Magnetic) 400 watt ballast uses 40 watts - so a digital ballast would use either 36 watts (10% less), or 4 watts (10% straight up). So at best it's saving you about 32 watts (about 2 pint sized CFL's), that's like 1 kilowatt every day and a quarter.

I figure it's not worth it to replace, just because, but when "Old Faithful" (my Sun System buzzbox) goes out, it's replacement will be a "Digital"!
 

regrets

Well-Known Member
From experience I can say They run cooler, they take up far less space (if that is an issue), they run MH and HPS, and they are quieter. From manufacturer info you will save money on your electric bill, they will last longer, your bulbs will last longer, and your bulbs will burn brighter. Whether all of the info from the manufacturer is correct or not would take a bit of time to tell. I say if you are getting a brand new system and are planning on growing for a while (more than a year), it is probably in your best interest to get the best that you can afford. If you think you will need an upgrade to a larger lamp down the road don't waste your money.
 

docd187

Well-Known Member
I've been using CFLs so I have no idea about larger lights.. Is a ballast actually needed?? What is its function?
For cfls you don't need a ballast. A lighting ballast is necessary to operate high intensity discharge lights because they have negative resistance, meaning they are unable to regulate the amount of current that passes through them. A lighting ballast must be used to control current flow; otherwise the light could fail. Small light sources can use passive components, which require no additional power to operate, as ballasts. An example would be a series resistor that limits the flow of current across its terminals. For high-powered lights, however, a resistor would waste a large amount of electricity, so a more complex lighting ballast is required.
 

connoisseurde420

Well-Known Member
T.H.Cammo, regrets - these guys are spot on! they are way more efficient and use less power. one thing to add is that a 400 digi puts out light like its a 500w bulb so thats like 25 percent more light output, that means a 600w does like a 750w, and 1000 does 1100w.
They are worth it if you are deciding between digi and buzzbox otherwise just keep using what ya got and worry more about how to grow.

-C
 

MrFishy

Well-Known Member
I think it's a safe bet that once they work out the digital bugs, the price'll drop and it'll be hard to find the old ballasts. I'm guessing the Chinese will initially make the best, and they will not be very expensive. Of course, about that time, a new kind of light that doesn't need a ballast will come along and mootrify the debate!
 

Bagelthief

Well-Known Member
i thought all CFL's did have a ballast? albeit a small one, its located at the base of the glass spiral, and its housed in plastic.
 

Bagelthief

Well-Known Member
really? yea, now that i think about it, it would make more sense...i remember someone else on here called them a ballast, and i just though that all fluorescents had ballasts...but thanks for clearing that up. are you an electrician or something?
 

docd187

Well-Known Member
really? yea, now that i think about it, it would make more sense...i remember someone else on here called them a ballast, and i just though that all fluorescents had ballasts...but thanks for clearing that up. are you an electrician or something?
haha no i'm not an electrician just a simple overworked and underpaid mechanic. i try to study up on anything and everything that interests me.
 

420weedman

Well-Known Member
i think you are thinking of a resistor not a ballast
CFL's need a ballast ... :idea:

Parts

Electronic ballast of a compact fluorescent lamp


There are two main parts in a CFL: the gas-filled tube (also called bulb or burner) and the magnetic or electronic ballast. An electrical current from the ballast flows through the gas, causing it to emit ultraviolet light. The ultraviolet light then excites a phosphor coating on the inside of the tube. This coating emits visible light (see Fluorescent lamp).
Electronic ballasts contain a small circuit board with rectifiers, a filter capacitor and usually two switching transistors connected as a high-frequency resonant series DC to AC inverter. The resulting high frequency, around 40 kHz or higher, is applied to the lamp tube. Since the resonant converter tends to stabilize lamp current (and light produced) over a range of input voltages, standard CFLs do not respond well in dimming applications and special lamps are required for dimming service. CFLs that flicker when they start have magnetic ballasts; CFLs with electronic ballasts are now much more common.

[edit] Integrated CFLs

Integrated lamps combine a tube, an electronic ballast and either an Edison screw or bayonet fitting in a single CFL unit. These lamps allow consumers to replace incandescent lamps easily with CFLs. Integrated CFLs work well in standard incandescent light fixtures. This lowers the cost of CFL use, since they can reuse the existing infrastructure. In addition, incandescent light fixtures are relatively inexpensive. Special 3-way models and dimmable models with standard bases are available for use when those features are needed.[6]

[edit] Non-integrated CFLs

Non-integrated CFLs have a separate, replaceable bulb and a permanently installed ballast. Since the ballasts are placed in the light fixture they are larger and last longer, compared to the integrated ones. Non-integrated CFL housings can be both more expensive and sophisticated, providing options such as dimming, less flicker, faster starts, etc.[7][8]
The ballasts make these light fixtures relatively expensive. They cost anywhere from $85 to $200 USD for each recessed light fixture. If a ballast with dimming capabilities is desired the cost is anywhere from $125 to $300 USD per recessed light fixture. Non-integrated CFLs are more popular for professional users, such as hotels and office buildings. The more advanced capabilities of these sophisticated external ballasts (e.g., faster starts, limited flicker, dimming, longer lifespans, etc.) are starting to appear in integrated CFLs.
Another style of non-integrated fitting is the "two piece", where the initial system includes a base adapter and detachable fluorescent tube module, and subsequently only the tube unit is replaced. The Thorn 2D and some Philips PL versions are examples, but while replacement tubes are generally still available, it is rare to see the complete kit on sale, having been overshadowed by cut-price one-piece units.


:-P
 

trapper

Well-Known Member
i have digital and magnetic,the digitals do not give out more power watt per watt,but they fire up faster,the digital have also burned a few of my bulbs,i measured the power in start up of a digital and a magnetic useing a power meter,the differance was not enough for me to replace the magnetics,and the last ballast i bought was a used magnetic for 40 dollars instead of 240 for a digi.but if the price comes down i will by digis.
 

docd187

Well-Known Member
CFL's need a ballast ... :idea:

Parts

Electronic ballast of a compact fluorescent lamp


There are two main parts in a CFL: the gas-filled tube (also called bulb or burner) and the magnetic or electronic ballast. An electrical current from the ballast flows through the gas, causing it to emit ultraviolet light. The ultraviolet light then excites a phosphor coating on the inside of the tube. This coating emits visible light (see Fluorescent lamp).
Electronic ballasts contain a small circuit board with rectifiers, a filter capacitor and usually two switching transistors connected as a high-frequency resonant series DC to AC inverter. The resulting high frequency, around 40 kHz or higher, is applied to the lamp tube. Since the resonant converter tends to stabilize lamp current (and light produced) over a range of input voltages, standard CFLs do not respond well in dimming applications and special lamps are required for dimming service. CFLs that flicker when they start have magnetic ballasts; CFLs with electronic ballasts are now much more common.

[edit] Integrated CFLs

Integrated lamps combine a tube, an electronic ballast and either an Edison screw or bayonet fitting in a single CFL unit. These lamps allow consumers to replace incandescent lamps easily with CFLs. Integrated CFLs work well in standard incandescent light fixtures. This lowers the cost of CFL use, since they can reuse the existing infrastructure. In addition, incandescent light fixtures are relatively inexpensive. Special 3-way models and dimmable models with standard bases are available for use when those features are needed.[6]

[edit] Non-integrated CFLs

Non-integrated CFLs have a separate, replaceable bulb and a permanently installed ballast. Since the ballasts are placed in the light fixture they are larger and last longer, compared to the integrated ones. Non-integrated CFL housings can be both more expensive and sophisticated, providing options such as dimming, less flicker, faster starts, etc.[7][8]
The ballasts make these light fixtures relatively expensive. They cost anywhere from $85 to $200 USD for each recessed light fixture. If a ballast with dimming capabilities is desired the cost is anywhere from $125 to $300 USD per recessed light fixture. Non-integrated CFLs are more popular for professional users, such as hotels and office buildings. The more advanced capabilities of these sophisticated external ballasts (e.g., faster starts, limited flicker, dimming, longer lifespans, etc.) are starting to appear in integrated CFLs.
Another style of non-integrated fitting is the "two piece", where the initial system includes a base adapter and detachable fluorescent tube module, and subsequently only the tube unit is replaced. The Thorn 2D and some Philips PL versions are examples, but while replacement tubes are generally still available, it is rare to see the complete kit on sale, having been overshadowed by cut-price one-piece units.


:-P
I stand corrected. I thought the op was asking if he could get a separate ballast for his cfl's. my bad:wall:
 
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