DiY LED - Cree CXA3070
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
JavaCo
Well-Known Member
If you need 20 drivers and your willing to spend 16.99 on a driver. I would spend 96 cents more and go with the mean wells. The 10 + price is 17.95 a piece. I would even hit the large order request and see if you can get more of a discount for 20. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?search_type=jamecoall&catalogId=10001&freeText=60-1400&langId=-1&productId=2101315&storeId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView . But i am also biased because all the ebay china made drivers i got are a pile of crap. Flipped 12 /12 last night and i got 2 of the ebay china made 1500mA ( really they are 1400mA ) i thought were good glow for a good 10 minutes after lights out. The caps inside are slowing leaking. The 3 meanwells I have dont do it. But Since i am running a 730nm at lights out for 8 minutes. I sure hope that glow doesnt mess me up.
If you do go with ebay drivers I would highly suggest you test them out before putting into use. Even if someone else has tested some from that seller. The guy that ripped supra off and is trying to rip me off. Going to ask Ebay to open a fraud investigation on that seller. At first i wasnt sure, but i am sure now. They are slapping the 1500mA stickers on 700mA 800mA and 650mA drivers to get rid of the older drivers that are not moving anymore. These drivers work great at those mA nice and stable they didn't break there is nothing wrong with them. They are simply and knowingly slapping 1500mA stickers on lesser amperage drivers. So Remember test your drivers cause they might power up and give you light but they could very well be running at less the half the stickers spec.
JavaCo
Well-Known Member
I wired the circuit my self it for sure is done right. Back in my construction days i wired residential houses for a few years. It does it with the light unplugged it is the caps in the driver leaking down. I fixed it by buying me two more meanwells. In the mean time i hooked a 100K resistor between + and - on the driver output. So now it drains the caps when turned off in about 6 seconds instead of 10 minutes.
tenthirty
Well-Known Member
I bought 24 of these things from this guy.....I filed a ebay dispute and he said he would give me a full refund after he received and tested them..... I did pay with a credit card, so if he tries any funny biz...
there are other avenues of recourse.
He did try to get me to drop the dispute before the refund.......We know what happened with that.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
The strange thing is, the drivers work OK at 25vF and under. They output 1400mA but run at 83% efficiency and make a buzzing sound. There is something not right inside because the first driver I tested worked right up to 40vF, puts out 1400mA and runs at 90% efficient. I paid to have the drivers shipped back to china so they could test them. They claimed that the drivers work fine:
"Our engineer has retested the returned drivers. They find that when the
voltage reaches to 36V and higher, the current will decrease in a degree.
But it can be used for these LEDs sold in our store without any problem.
Considering the LED you use to test the driver is COB LED, whose power is
much higher than usual LEDs, the current will be affected largely. That’s
the reason why the current you test is lower than we test.
In this way, the LED driver doesn’t have the defective problems you
mentioned before. It suits for our LEDs for normal use.
Also, the five led drivers you returned to us were damaged on the way,
which is hard to be sold for the second time."
So they are telling me that I don't know what I am talking about, as if I only have a COB to test the driver with. It sounds to me like they don't have the gear to properly test the driver or they simply did not test it. tenthirty you got 24 of them and they were all performing like that?
"Our engineer has retested the returned drivers. They find that when the
voltage reaches to 36V and higher, the current will decrease in a degree.
But it can be used for these LEDs sold in our store without any problem.
Considering the LED you use to test the driver is COB LED, whose power is
much higher than usual LEDs, the current will be affected largely. That’s
the reason why the current you test is lower than we test.
In this way, the LED driver doesn’t have the defective problems you
mentioned before. It suits for our LEDs for normal use.
Also, the five led drivers you returned to us were damaged on the way,
which is hard to be sold for the second time."
So they are telling me that I don't know what I am talking about, as if I only have a COB to test the driver with. It sounds to me like they don't have the gear to properly test the driver or they simply did not test it. tenthirty you got 24 of them and they were all performing like that?
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Dam dude, keep us updated on the dispute. I warned them that I was trying to help them and their customers but they insist their drivers are fine. So be it... Anyone who is dealing with this seller be encouraged to play hardball. I was trying to be nice and that didnt get me anywhere. They just dragged their feet until the time limit expired.
JavaCo
Well-Known Member
Yeah power seller tactic. They will tell you what you want to hear and make excuses so you go past the 45 days. After 45 days Your shit out luck they will never refund your money. I will escalate my case to a claim this week end well before my 45 day cut off. They say they have refunded my money but clearly they cant even do that right. Really they had no intention of refunding it they just trying to float me by the 45 days. As a power Seller they get a nice fat discount on ebay because they do so much volume. But they have to keep their rating over 98 % I believe it is. At least that what it was when I was a power seller before the market crash of 08. These guys do enough volume they can sell just a small % bullshit crap parts to people and keep there power seller status. These guys work the ebay system and I really dont think Ebay really cares. They will do what they always do which is as little as possible. So really doubt they will take my fraud investigation request of this seller seriously but hell i will ask anyways. I will more then likely get my money back and ebay will do nothing to stop sellers like this giving other good sellers a bad name.
tenthirty
Well-Known Member
Yup and I'll sick the CC company on them if that doesn't do the trick.
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
Do you know how many lumens output this system could provide?Fan mod to the driver board that me and Supe collaborated on. I even DIY'd a few fan spade adaptors myself (he made the fan power splitter cable though). It works great.
tenthirty
Well-Known Member
At 1400mw 14 drivers * 50 watts each = 700 watts more or less / 25 watts a square foot = 28 sq of coverage.
So about enough to cover a 5x5 table, more or less.......................
Does that sound about right??
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. If you coupled this system with COB lights, would the power consumption be less? Or would the coverage area be increased if using COB lights?
CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
This system is coupled with COB lights, 20 drivers, 20 COBs, 5 heatsinks with 4 COBs each. It covers a 4'x10' area. Each COB at 1.4mA is dissipating 52 watts for a total of 1,040 watts. It pulls a little over 1,200 watts from the AC outlet.
As far as lumens, I'm not sure, it's a lot. We don't measure LED power strictly in lumens, however, but in PAR, Lux, LER, Quanta, etc...
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
The Homerun answer I was hoping for. Thanks man!! My current unused 600w led light is 14,400k lumens but operates around 300w at full spectrum/capability. I'm curious about coverage area of a 4x4 tent. I'm starting to think that building my own led light setup can reduce power consumption by 30% min. #FirstTime Thanks for any tips/tricks.
CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
Basically you buy the aluminum heatsink, sand it with 1,000 grit, mount the COB with either kapton tape or buy a holder, and wire it to a constant current driver. Then put a 120 or 140mm computer case fan on top, with the fan blowing down onto the heatsink. The fan will require a small power supply too.
That's the basic outline for a single COB. If you're smart with wiring, you can create a whole system.
This is beyond my pay grade, so I contracted out.
That's the basic outline for a single COB. If you're smart with wiring, you can create a whole system.
This is beyond my pay grade, so I contracted out.
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Chronikool
Well-Known Member
I pull air away from the heatsink with my fans...have awayz done this...i guess they both work...
CaliWorthington
Well-Known Member
My heatsinks are 24" long and have only one fan in the middle, so it has to work in push mode. I can see where pulling air away would work on the single COB heatsinks, or with multiple fans.