DIY with Quantum Boards

Aolelon

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
Justaquickquestionforyou said:
Any plans for a shop in the EU? I would love to get my hands on a 260 Watt kit, i dont care if V1 or V2...i want 3500k but its damn expensive to order from the US (shipping + duty).

The shop in spain only got very small selection...
Click to expand...
There are 2 shops in EU starting to sell them. Contact sean@igrowsystems.com he will probably have our kits in the uk very soon.. Alternate email is igrowsystems@gmail.com or Todogrowled.com
 
Justaquickquestionforyou

Justaquickquestionforyou

Member
Aolelon said:
There are 2 shops in EU starting to sell them. Contact sean@igrowsystems.com he will probably have our kits in the uk very soon.. Alternate email is igrowsystems@gmail.com or Todogrowled.com
Click to expand...
The Todogrowled.com site is down...but even if it wouldnt there arent any sellers for the 260W Kit in europe

i cant even order from alibaba because they dont offer paypal anymore (international trading issues...;))

i really would like to pay the extra buck for a authentic LM561C quantum board or better yet a V2 BUT ITS NOT POSSIBLE WITHOUT A SHOP FOR EUROPE
 
Last edited:
OingoPoingo

OingoPoingo

Member
Hi all.
Just finalizing my purchase of 2 QB288 boards and a driver but am a little confused about which version driver to get for my setup or if the versions matter.
I want to run both boards in series using the HLG-240H- C2100 driver .. so from what i understand, each board will be running at about 1050 mah? so about 70% of max for each board?

the driver has 2 versions A and B -- Reading through this looooong ass thread i got the sense that type A is preferred due to the build in Potentiometer but Meanwell specs says Type B is a 3 in 1 dimming function. I dont know what that means.. but would that mean that B would give me more options so essentially better?

Also ive looked at the LEDGardner vids and he said something like after 1000 PPFD the laws of diminishing returns kicks in and the plant is basically maxed out from the light side and the only way up from there would be by using C02 etc. is that correct?

This is hopefully a step up from my MarsHydro which worked really good but was hot AF and forced me to use AC.
Hoping if i run this in 2x2 or 3x3 that running about 70% of max with passive heatsink will help with with atleast 8-10 degrees less than the Mars box.
 
diyled

diyled

Well-Known Member
Justaquickquestionforyou said:
The Todogrowled.com site is down...but even if it wouldnt there arent any sellers for the 260W Kit in europe

i cant even order from alibaba because they dont offer paypal anymore (international trading issues...;))

i really would like to pay the extra buck for a authentic LM561C quantum board or better yet a V2 BUT ITS NOT POSSIBLE WITHOUT A SHOP FOR EUROPE
Click to expand...
They will be in the uk soon. ;)
 
619kt619

619kt619

Well-Known Member
OingoPoingo said:
Hi all.
Just finalizing my purchase of 2 QB288 boards and a driver but am a little confused about which version driver to get for my setup or if the versions matter.
I want to run both boards in series using the HLG-240H- C2100 driver .. so from what i understand, each board will be running at about 1050 mah? so about 70% of max for each board?

the driver has 2 versions A and B -- Reading through this looooong ass thread i got the sense that type A is preferred due to the build in Potentiometer but Meanwell specs says Type B is a 3 in 1 dimming function. I dont know what that means.. but would that mean that B would give me more options so essentially better?

Also ive looked at the LEDGardner vids and he said something like after 1000 PPFD the laws of diminishing returns kicks in and the plant is basically maxed out from the light side and the only way up from there would be by using C02 etc. is that correct?

This is hopefully a step up from my MarsHydro which worked really good but was hot AF and forced me to use AC.
Hoping if i run this in 2x2 or 3x3 that running about 70% of max with passive heatsink will help with with atleast 8-10 degrees less than the Mars box.
Click to expand...
Series circuitry has the same current throughout. Both boards would be receiving the same amount of current (2100ma) and the wattage is what you will change to get your desired light intensity.

In parallel wiring the total amperage is divided among the number of (+,-) "circuits" you have going the the boards. But for your situation I recommend going with an 'A' type driver. The B type drivers have more applications. However, if you don't know much about electronics, or care to install electronic switches/controllers onto the driver, then A is easier to work with
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
there is no set distance for hanging your LEDs.
When plants are young and not growing fast yet, you can look at the length of the petioles (the stems the leaves are on).
It grows them longer hoping to find light just a little bit higher.

Another sign that you can decrease the distance to the light is when the leaves hang horizontally with the floor even when well watered.
This is to maximize the surface area exposed for more light.

As the plants start getting to the phase where they put on nodes fast enough for you to use those to read the plant with. you can check node space to tell you how close the lights should be.
Long stretchy nodes need more light. Of course, you may do it intentionally if say, you are doing a vert grow.

Leaves pointing very far up is a way of reducing surface area to reduce the amount of light, so that is a good sign to raise the lights.

We often see the leaves in a slightly praying posture, which is fine, this says there is a little more light than the plant can process and stay cool enough at the same time, but it can manage it by simply lifting the leaves a little.

THere isn;t just one or two positions for your lights. Your plant's needs will change during its life. most of the changes are at the beginning and at the end.
 
Last edited:
OingoPoingo

OingoPoingo

Member
Hi KT .. Thanks for the input :peace:
619kt619 said:
Series circuitry has the same current throughout. Both boards would be receiving the same amount of current (2100ma) and the wattage is what you will change to get your desired light intensity.

In parallel wiring the total amperage is divided among the number of (+,-) "circuits" you have going the the boards. But for your situation I recommend going with an 'A' type driver. The B type drivers have more applications. However, if you don't know much about electronics, or care to install electronic switches/controllers onto the driver, then A is easier to work with
Click to expand...
 
numberfour

numberfour

Well-Known Member
Harvested my first run under a HLG65 @3k in a 2x3 tent. The plants were in soil in solo cups for one of the competitions in this section. I've been very impressed by this light..results are fantastic

Adhesive #1
ad1 - Copy.jpg

#1 a very tall pheno and I had to angle to board a little, still inches away with no damage
ad1 - Copy.jpg

Adhesive #2
addd3 (2) - Copy.jpg

Adhesive #4
ad4 - Copy.jpg

Plemon
DSC06163 - Copy.jpg


Lightsaber x SunshineDaydream
light (2) - Copy.jpg

thanks HLG :clap:
 
Psyphish

Psyphish

Well-Known Member
Any idea how to wire these boards? The previous lights (HLG40) were plug n play. Do I need an adaptor of some type for the PSU cable?

 
N

NothinYet

Active Member
Psyphish said:
Any idea how to wire these boards? The previous lights (HLG40) were plug n play. Do I need an adaptor of some type for the PSU cable?

Click to expand...
If you want to get max power out of these boards, and plan on expanding in the future, I'd go with an hlg-240h-c1750b and an external pot for dimming, this will give you 135w max With 3 boards. If you add 1 board you get 180w. Add 2 you get 225w. This is all wired series.

If you don't plan on expanding, you could use an hlg-120h-24b with external pot for dimming, or hlg-120-24 with no dimming for approximately 120-125w. If you go with the hlg-120h-24a you can max all 3 boards at 135w, but you need a multimeter or digital dc voltage, amp display to make sure you don't go over the max of 1750mA per board. The a version of the driver is capable of 5.574a at max. Which would run each board at 1.858mA. That is not recommended. This one is wired parallel.

For driving 1,or 2 boards. The website has drivers recommended.

@Stephenj37826 could these boards be driven harder than 1.75mA if I used the 2.45" or 3" aluminum heatsink from heatsink usa.com? Or is that max current for the diodes period?
 
Last edited:
Aolelon

Aolelon

Well-Known Member
NothinYet said:
If you want to get max power out of these boards, and plan on expanding in the future, I'd go with an hlg-240h-c1750b and an external pot for dimming, this will give you 135w max With 3 boards. If you add 1 board you get 180w. Add 2 you get 225w. This is all wired parallel.

If you don't plan on expanding, you could use an hlg-120h-24b with external pot for dimming, or hlg-120-24 with no dimming for approximately 120-125w. If you go with the hlg-120h-24a you can max all 3 boards at 135w, but you need a multimeter or digital dc voltage, amp display to make sure you don't go over the max of 1750mA per board. The a version of the driver is capable of 5.574a at max. Which would run each board at 1.858mA. That is not recommended.

For driving 1,or 2 boards. The website has drivers recommended.

@Stephenj37826 could these boards be driven harder than 1.75mA if I used the 2.45" or 3" aluminum heatsink from heatsink usa.com? Or is that max current for the diodes period?
Click to expand...
Do you mean wired in series with the hlg-240h-c1750?
Because 3 boards wired in parallel is below the constant current point, and you would be splitting the current between the 3 boards, so 583 mA per board.
 
Psyphish

Psyphish

Well-Known Member
NothinYet said:
If you want to get max power out of these boards, and plan on expanding in the future, I'd go with an hlg-240h-c1750b and an external pot for dimming, this will give you 135w max With 3 boards. If you add 1 board you get 180w. Add 2 you get 225w. This is all wired series.

If you don't plan on expanding, you could use an hlg-120h-24b with external pot for dimming, or hlg-120-24 with no dimming for approximately 120-125w. If you go with the hlg-120h-24a you can max all 3 boards at 135w, but you need a multimeter or digital dc voltage, amp display to make sure you don't go over the max of 1750mA per board. The a version of the driver is capable of 5.574a at max. Which would run each board at 1.858mA. That is not recommended. This one is wired parallel.

For driving 1,or 2 boards. The website has drivers recommended.

@Stephenj37826 could these boards be driven harder than 1.75mA if I used the 2.45" or 3" aluminum heatsink from heatsink usa.com? Or is that max current for the diodes period?
Click to expand...
I have the right drivers (in the picture), but how can I connect them to the boards? I'm intending to run single boards.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top