DIY with Quantum Boards

Been working on a fixture for my next grow, to add T5 UV and some blue, red, and far red (Emerson Effect).

I have 2XQuantum288s on a Slate 2, got another Slate 2 and cut in in half to mount on either side at a slight angle. I designed the brackets to use the far red strips on either end, also angled in slightly. My space is a 2X2.5 tent.

The Slate 2 secures to the top of this-






All the drivers will be remote mounted at the top of the tent.

I've still got a ways to go. Nothing is wired up of course, and I don't have QB11 red strips. They are no longer available and am waiting for a redesign. I may end up going cutter or starboards, but I'm really wanting to keep it all HLG except the UV.

.RootDown said:

Been working on a fixture for my next grow, to add T5 UV and some blue, red, and far red (Emerson Effect).

I have 2XQuantum288s on a Slate 2, got another Slate 2 and cut in in half to mount on either side at a slight angle. I designed the brackets to use the far red strips on either end, also angled in slightly. My space is a 2X2.5 tent.

The Slate 2 secures to the top of this-
View attachment 4336099

View attachment 4336100

View attachment 4336101

All the drivers will be remote mounted at the top of the tent.

I've still got a ways to go. Nothing is wired up of course, and I don't have QB11 red strips. They are no longer available and am waiting for a redesign. I may end up going cutter or starboards, but I'm really wanting to keep it all HLG except the UV.

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WoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOoOooooooWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!

What 2' T5 UVs are those?

Airwalker16 said:

What 2' T5 UVs are those?

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They are the Arcadia D3 Desert 12%. I know you like the Solorcures more but I think these can be a bit closer to the leaf surface so they fit my needs better.

.RootDown said:

They are the Arcadia D3 Desert 12%. I know you like the Solorcures more but I think these can be a bit closer to the leaf surface so they fit my needs better.

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No, those are perfect for a fixture. SolaCure are great too but can only be used on short bursts.
You got em on their own timer or are you just going to run them the whole time?

Maybe @Randomblame has some ideas

.RootDown said:

They are the Arcadia D3 Desert 12%. I know you like the Solorcures more but I think these can be a bit closer to the leaf surface so they fit my needs better.

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Yeah, Arcadias are good, I've them myself. Less UV intensity like Solacure so less distance and more time are possible. Only have a look at the upper fan leaves. Solacure bulbs have ~34% : 66% UVB : UVA, Arcadia's have 12% : 30% : 58% UVB : UVA : visible light. That's 3 times as much UVB and 2 times as much UVA but they have almost no visible light and look light blue. Arcadia's D3 bulbs have a nice CRI90+ coolwhite with 7 or 8k.
Both works! The Arcadia's just need more time to cause the same effect.

Wow , a DIY master you are ! hope to see how it looks like.

Airwalker16 said:

You got em on their own timer or are you just going to run them the whole time?

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They'll be on their own timer, after acclimation they'll be on for a couple of hours at the middle of the light cycle. I also plan on wiring a switch between the timer and UV to turn off the lamps when I'm in the garden. Probably not needed since their day cycle is my night.

Quantum life .....

Been awhile since posting any plants , mostly “ burning “ thru my jar stashes , but wanted to post one of a handful of plants that will be “ water only “ grows . I have been experimenting with simple ammended mixes.

Similar to “ moonshine mix “ , I have been growing chilies and “ maters “ with it.

Strain : CHERRY PIE
( Granddaddy Purp x Durban Poison )

Soil :
FFOF ( base )
Happy Frog fruit and veg ( dry fertilizer )
Earth Worm Castings
EB Stone Recipe 420 mix ( top fill )
Perlite #4

Water : Tap ( ph 6.3 / 6.6 )
Ph down ( citric crystals ) Alaska

Quantum : QB 96s ( 320w ) - Dual Agromax UV - QB 304 ( 4000k ) 150w ....
Warp Core rig = 470w total
Power dimmed to 355 currently and UV is not on at this stage ....

3x3 corner space

This is one of 7 plants growing in the mix to test longevity of medium. If soil begins signs of depletion
, then I will either bubble a soil bag for tea or scratch in a top dress .... nothing else. I do have megacrop on hand but am curious on well the FFOF carries deep into flower with the HF dry boost mixed in.

Plant has been topped and “ Hubbed “ / Cropped for symmetry.... ( ocd I guess lol ).

HydroRed said:

I wouldnt say irrelevant since if a lead is exposed and touches the frame, your gonna get lit up. If the driver is mounted to the frame, the driver itself will ground if grounded properly at the ac earth ground. As for solid wire, I wouldnt use it for a setup that will be getting moved, bumped etc etc. The solid wire isnt flexible in that aspect and may break inside of the insulation if moved too much over time. As mentioned, the solid wire in your home is stapled in place so it isnt being moved or disturbed. I suppose the same could be said if you took the same precautions for your build.

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@HydroRed
hello, saw your post.
I am mounting driver remote.
On a meanwell driver I have if i ground driver where it says for AC input to the wire designated ground , if I run a suitable insulated copper braided wire 12 AWAG from that AC input ground wire to frame of aluminum frame light I am building and ensure proper contact will that ground the light safely?
That will create a 3-way connection for the drivers wire wall plug ground/board ground so I assume a 3 way wago would suffix to connect the driver to wall/ground safely?

If not I would like to know the correct way to do so.
I can solder if needed, but it ain't pretty LOL
Thank you

oldbeancounter said:

@HydroRed
hello, saw your post.
I am mounting driver remote.
On a meanwell driver I have if i ground driver where it says for AC input to the wire designated ground , if I run a suitable insulated copper braided wire 12 AWAG from that AC input ground wire to frame of aluminum frame light I am building and ensure proper contact will that ground the light safely?
That will create a 3-way connection for the drivers wire wall plug ground/board ground so I assume a 3 way wago would suffix to connect the driver to wall/ground safely?

If not I would like to know the correct way to do so.
I can solder if needed, but it ain't pretty LOL
Thank you

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You got it!
Just use a fork terminal crimped on the ground and lock it down with one of the bolts or fasteners on the frame. Easy peasy road to safety that can be done for pennies.

HydroRed said:

You got it!
Just use a fork terminal crimped on the ground and lock it down with one of the bolts or fasteners on the frame. Easy peasy road to safety that can be done for pennies.
View attachment 4338281

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The driver case is grounded to you could just run a wire from the mounting holes on the driver case.

daveybc said:

I am looking into a quick release system( from solid board cable to home run cable to driver ). I was thinking of those "spade connectors" but Wago's could work as well I suppose. Or even a electrical male/female plug. Has anyone had bad experience with Wago's being used for a quick release? do they ever wear out? As mentioned, I like to remove the fixture 3-4 times a year for cleaning and don't want to keep removing the Molex connector/wire., just keep that solid #18 strapped and permanent. If i ever go UV I will upgrade the home run cable.

Any feedback on reusing Wago's for termination 3or4 times a year? Thanks

PS"home run" cable has nothing to do with your "home". just a direct cable run.

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https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Plastics-waterproof-connctor-Applicable/dp/B01LCV97AY/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1MW5U1HYYIDOM&keywords=two+pin+connector&qid=1558635889&s=gateway&sprefix=two+pin+connce,aps,183&sr=8-14

I use these for quick disconnect

ohh nice, just ordered some of those for my drivers thanks for posting that...

619kt619 said:

https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Plastics-waterproof-connctor-Applicable/dp/B01LCV97AY/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1MW5U1HYYIDOM&keywords=two+pin+connector&qid=1558635889&s=gateway&sprefix=two+pin+connce,aps,183&sr=8-14

I use these for quick disconnect

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sorry for the late reply haven't been online for a while. No, all plants in this tent are photo periods. I'll post a new pic soon she's filling out nicley.

jjng5 said:

@pop22 Is this an auto strain? I'm blown away by the three leaf grow!

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HydroRed said:

You got it!
Just use a fork terminal crimped on the ground and lock it down with one of the bolts or fasteners on the frame. Easy peasy road to safety that can be done for pennies.
View attachment 4338281

Click to expand...

Thank you kindly

You shouldn't ground the DC side to the AC ground! And the AC side on any Meanwell driver with a three lead power wire is internally grounded.

HydroRed said:

You got it!
Just use a fork terminal crimped on the ground and lock it down with one of the bolts or fasteners on the frame. Easy peasy road to safety that can be done for pennies.
View attachment 4338281

Click to expand...

pop22 said:

You shouldn't ground the DC side to the AC ground! And the AC side on any Meanwell driver with a three lead power wire is internally grounded.

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So I am not needing to ground the boards as the driver will be remote?
I can see your point, your making a circuit are you not and grounding in my case a 600 volt 48A driver DC output via the fixture and heat sinks etc to the wall 120 ground ?
I already have alot of the parts so sooner know all I need to include when I do my last trip for parts.

oldbeancounter said:

So I am not needing to ground the boards as the driver will be remote?
I can see your point, your making a circuit are you not and grounding in my case a 600 volt 48A driver DC output via the fixture and heat sinks etc to the wall 120 ground ?
I already have alot of the parts so sooner know all I need to include when I do my last trip for parts.

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If you are remote mounting your boards you SHOULD use a proper ground wire that has unimpeded path to earth.

The HLG 550s have one EVEN THOUGH the drivers are mounted to the board. Every light fixture you buy in north america will have the metal parts grounded.

And if you don't want to take my word for it, ask ANY other certified electrician.

GreeneryBob said:

If you are remote mounting your boards you SHOULD use a proper ground wire that has unimpeded path to earth.

The HLG 550s have one EVEN THOUGH the drivers are mounted to the board. Every light fixture you buy in north america will have the metal parts grounded.

And if you don't want to take my word for it, ask ANY other certified electrician.

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How best do I ground
I have plenty of proper wire high heat etc
On frame going to where?
Copper piping on hot water rads they are 2 inch.
20 AMP GFI is available as dedicated.
I feel the rest I am ok with
I do have other lights
but drivers are all on-board
I don't want 40 lbs of drivers kicking out heat in tent.
Can you explain
And also why are your light strips never in stock lol?
I have the right person is that correct?
Thanks for stopping in to warm me.
It is what decent people do.