DIY with Quantum Boards

ThatKidiscrying

Active Member
If you are following a 2000mA per board maximum then 288 watts would be your maximum wattage.
If you run a little higher, up to about 300 watts at the boards, that will be fine also. Especially with a dedicated fan cooling them. If you can only read AC wattage, I would try to keep your wall draw at about 330 watts maximum.
I turned the driver all the way up and I’m pulling 3.0 amps AC at the wall at 117.5 volts. That would give me 352.5 watts.

I dialed it back to 2.7 amps at the wall at 117v. That’s gives me 317.25 watts.

I’m asking .....haha !
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
A little green happiness in scorched world ....

Quantum V1 304 3500k ( 4 boards ) with 2 citizen COB ( 3500k )
Power dialed at 360w currently ( total boards / cobs ) dimmer set
12/12 flipped last wed. ( minor LST ) minor defol
Layered mix FFOF / Recipe 420 - Myco / EWC ( 10% by container volume ) / Kelp meal
Water ph 6.6 ( tap )

AD5799D8-B0CE-4AE5-81BB-32FF31A9F7DA.jpeg9469A697-D191-476E-AB8A-035F0E164199.jpeg
 

shimbob

Well-Known Member
Yea, anything I should be looking at? I have no electrical background.
Measure the DC voltage immediately at the driver output and measure at the leds. That driver has been tested to put out 2.4A, so there's a possibility the LEDs require more voltage than the driver can provide. ............. but if that were really the case, flickering and buzzing isnt exactly how the driver should respond. Who knows. In any case, if there's an issue then start diagnosing, start measuring volts.
 

cf_z

Member
Is there any link or resource that describes / breaks down the digits on the driver names?

Like HLG vs XLG, and the digits at the end. It seems pretty clear so far that the middle number is typically the driver's watt output, but im curious of the other digits both before and after are standardized at all.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Typically with Meanwell, first characters which are usually letters, is the Model.
The second set of numbers is Indeed a rough idea of its wattage capabilities.
If there is a C in front of the next set of numbers, it's a Constant CURRENT driver.
Without the C, is a constant voltage driver.
The numbers occurring after the C or without it determine the output current or voltage of the driver.
The last letters, A/B/AB describe it's dimming capabilities. Whether it's an internal, in driver potentiometer turned by removing a plug and using a Phillips screwdriver. B meaning it has dimming leads you will attach your own potentiometer to for remote dimming. AB Indicates having both options.
On some models, like the XLG, this is an L/M/H meaning low medium or high which correlates to the amount of current threshold the driver is capable of putting out.
It is a wide range for each, meaning 350mA-1400/1400-2800/2800-4200.(these figures are probably not correct, but just an example)

Hope that helps get you some sort of direction!
 

stckyprp

Member
Can anyone help me figure out the cheapest but good light i could get or build for a 2x3 tent? I would do one plant from seed. maybe 2 eventually if all goes well. I was thinking about this right now let me know what you think
2 x QB288 Quantum Board (V1 – Samsung 561C)$37 each
HLG-240H-C2100B $64
slate 1 heatsink $18 each

Are there any other things I could replace some of those things with to make it cheaper or anything? This is my first grow and I'm trying to figure all this lighting out. Thanks
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Can anyone help me figure out the cheapest but good light i could get or build for a 2x3 tent? I would do one plant from seed. maybe 2 eventually if all goes well. I was thinking about this right now let me know what you think
2 x QB288 Quantum Board (V1 – Samsung 561C)$37 each
HLG-240H-C2100B $64
slate 1 heatsink $18 each

Are there any other things I could replace some of those things with to make it cheaper or anything? This is my first grow and I'm trying to figure all this lighting out. Thanks
That's about as cheap as it gets other than using a different driver like an LRS model meanwell instead.
 
Top