Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
Nobody likes a quitter!!!
DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
Frank Nitty
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if HLG has a discount code? And if so, can you please tell me what it is? Thank you!!!
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Current discount code is.
I'lgladlySuckYourDickonTuesdayforaQuantumBoardToday
Sorry Frank im baked...
@a mongo frog , time to get some A-Team/ Macguyver metalwork done to build an air cooled sealed hood so you can get a true picture of performance.
I think HLG should jump on something air cooled. With the right contacts it should be easy to manufacture something for people in your situation.
Sleezygeezy
Well-Known Member
Once my qb324's come in on Friday, I'm gonna be putting together an a/c fixture with 2-qb324's per hood. Hood is an Xtrasun 64. Driver is Hlg-320h-c1400b. Gonna be wired in series. Trying to replace a 600w hps footprint. I'll put up pics once I have it done. And when @Stephenj37826 or @robincnn started one of these threads, they had some designs for 4 & 2 Qb's per different size hoods. But people didn't seem too thrilled about em from what I remember reading. I'm in the desert, so Led or not, I knew I was gonna need air cooling. Plus, my room is already setup for it anywayz.Current discount code is.
I'lgladlySuckYourDickonTuesdayforaQuantumBoardToday
Sorry Frank im baked...
@a mongo frog , time to get some A-Team/ Macguyver metalwork done to build an air cooled sealed hood so you can get a true picture of performance.
I think HLG should jump on something air cooled. With the right contacts it should be easy to manufacture something for people in your situation.
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Yeah now you mention it I do remember them talking about housing them in cooled hoods in the early days.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with brother. Awesome.
Little Dog
Well-Known Member
Hey all you old HPS guys who switched over to led. Please give me your quick opinion. I’ve got two HPS 600’s over a 5 X 7 area using Blockbuster hoods. I’m gonna switch over to led, I’m sure. But should I keep my hoods and retro fit two HLG- 260’s inside each one. Which I believe I can make work. I’ve now got outside air running thru each hood and then back out. I’m in a 10 x10 room. Temps stay around 82 with AC. I’ve got a humidifier and chiller inside room also.
Or I can remove both hoods and all ductwork and run three HLG- 320’s in open air. You guys know the heat issues with HPS. Am I freaking a little, or can I just run the 320’s and use an air extractor if the room did get overly hot. I’d still be using the AC. What’s your take on it. I’d like to get rid of the hoods, but I worry that I may regret it. What do you guys think?
I’m in the Deep South. It does get hot here. Humid too! Thanks.
Or I can remove both hoods and all ductwork and run three HLG- 320’s in open air. You guys know the heat issues with HPS. Am I freaking a little, or can I just run the 320’s and use an air extractor if the room did get overly hot. I’d still be using the AC. What’s your take on it. I’d like to get rid of the hoods, but I worry that I may regret it. What do you guys think?
I’m in the Deep South. It does get hot here. Humid too! Thanks.
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coreywebster
Well-Known Member
I used to run 3x 600w HPS in an 8x4 flower room, in cool tubes. I didn't really struggle with heat much except in heatwaves which are usually rare in the UK. But I switched to 700w of cob and 2x 260w QB kits, each covering half my 8x4.
Temps were fine, 80s with HPS cooled (not a sealed room) mid 70s with non air cooled LEDs. I used to run my fan on max in summer and mid in winter, I then only had to run it on minimum all year.
My advice, keep your hoods but set up without them first.
If your set up is a sealed system and you don't already do full air exchange and you run co2 then please go back a few pages and read A mongo frogs posts.
P.S obviously my climate and yours are worlds apart, so take that into consideration.
Cheesy Bo' Greesy
Well-Known Member
Found this on the fluence led (spyder) website. Nothing new but important nonetheless ...
"So long as carbon dioxide, water, and nutrients are not limiting growth of the plant and it is a fast-growing species, higher light intensities will result in faster growth and increased production of secondary metabolites. However, too high of a light intensity can be damaging to cells, especially in sensitive species, producing free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide within cells. On the surface, you might notice this effect as photobleaching (tan to white patches on leaves) if the plant is not photoacclimated to that intensity. Many growers notice this issue when they are transferring plants from a seedling propagation or rooting phase in which light intensity is low, into a highly productive phase under high light intensity. As a part of the photoacclimation process, highly productive or fast-growing species will likely accumulate more chlorophyll to harvest more light. If intensity is too high, production of various carotenoids (for more info, refer to […pigments & photoreceptors]) is increased to protect the photosynthetic reaction centers and dissipate some light.
(They continue on with)
**** This is why increasing light intensity can have diminishing returns since more light is dissipated in response to higher light intensity **** ...
(Exactly why I've been asking the questions that the "experts" on this thread are refusing to answer for some reason. Listen Im not here to line your pockets. Im here to give my plants the PROPER amount of light and I've yet to hear anyone discussing this on this thread)
To photoacclimate your plants productively with little to no photobleaching (which inhibits growth), it is best to incrementally increase light intensity or use a shade cloth for a week or two. Slowly acclimating plants to higher light intensities can be achieved using dimmable lights after determining what your desired PPFD will be (depending on your fixture capability and species) and creating a series of incremental increases in intensity (beginning slightly above the propagation intensity) over time. A less sophisticated way to achieve this same outcome (if your lights are not capable of dimming) would require you to start with the plant-lamp separation distance much larger than desired and then slowly move the lamp closer to the plants (or vice versa) over the same duration.
As previously mentioned, anthocyanins can accumulate in leaves of many species in response to blue or UV light of sufficient intensity. A similar mechanism protects the fruit of some crops such as tomatoes and peppers. When growing green peppers, you may notice that some fruit surfaces exposed to more light have patches of yellow to orange coloration. This accumulation of photoprotectivecarotenoids prevents damage to the fruit. Lycopene, an orange to red carotenoid, plays a similar role in tomato fruits. Just like most other light-induced secondary metabolites, production of these carotenoids occurs at a faster rate as light intensity increases.
CONCLUSION
We know that the proportion of wavelengths supplied to plants as well as intensity completely changes the photomorphogenic outcomes as well as phytochemical concentrations (secondary metabolites). Increasing light intensity induces production of various secondary metabolites in plants as a form of protection. Blue and UV light have the most powerful influence on secondary metabolism relative to other wavelengths and this scales with intensity. From a production standpoint, these metabolites often improve product quality both due to their medicinal benefits in humans as well as crop coloring effects. This differs depending on the genetics at play with much variability among species. Some species are more tolerant to this response and require higher light intensities to show any response while others do not. One proven method to “get the best of both worlds” is to utilize an EOP treatment in which plants grow and develop under optimal conditions for primary metabolism (broad spectrum), and are then transferred beneath a secondary metabolism promoting light treatment (higher intensity or specific wavelengths) prior to harvest after major crop growth has occurred. Overall, the most important aspect to remember is that secondary metabolism diverts resources away from plant growth. When selecting or making any changes to your lighting system, consider these innate plant responses to ensure your system is optimal for your intended species and market.
(All Im asking is how much quantum board led light is considered too much light? In turn becoming counterproductive to what it is we're attempting to acheive here. Fluence led obviously has no problem whatsoever discussing the subject. I've yet to hear from the experts on this thread concerning the subject)
"So long as carbon dioxide, water, and nutrients are not limiting growth of the plant and it is a fast-growing species, higher light intensities will result in faster growth and increased production of secondary metabolites. However, too high of a light intensity can be damaging to cells, especially in sensitive species, producing free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide within cells. On the surface, you might notice this effect as photobleaching (tan to white patches on leaves) if the plant is not photoacclimated to that intensity. Many growers notice this issue when they are transferring plants from a seedling propagation or rooting phase in which light intensity is low, into a highly productive phase under high light intensity. As a part of the photoacclimation process, highly productive or fast-growing species will likely accumulate more chlorophyll to harvest more light. If intensity is too high, production of various carotenoids (for more info, refer to […pigments & photoreceptors]) is increased to protect the photosynthetic reaction centers and dissipate some light.
(They continue on with)
**** This is why increasing light intensity can have diminishing returns since more light is dissipated in response to higher light intensity **** ...
(Exactly why I've been asking the questions that the "experts" on this thread are refusing to answer for some reason. Listen Im not here to line your pockets. Im here to give my plants the PROPER amount of light and I've yet to hear anyone discussing this on this thread)
To photoacclimate your plants productively with little to no photobleaching (which inhibits growth), it is best to incrementally increase light intensity or use a shade cloth for a week or two. Slowly acclimating plants to higher light intensities can be achieved using dimmable lights after determining what your desired PPFD will be (depending on your fixture capability and species) and creating a series of incremental increases in intensity (beginning slightly above the propagation intensity) over time. A less sophisticated way to achieve this same outcome (if your lights are not capable of dimming) would require you to start with the plant-lamp separation distance much larger than desired and then slowly move the lamp closer to the plants (or vice versa) over the same duration.
As previously mentioned, anthocyanins can accumulate in leaves of many species in response to blue or UV light of sufficient intensity. A similar mechanism protects the fruit of some crops such as tomatoes and peppers. When growing green peppers, you may notice that some fruit surfaces exposed to more light have patches of yellow to orange coloration. This accumulation of photoprotectivecarotenoids prevents damage to the fruit. Lycopene, an orange to red carotenoid, plays a similar role in tomato fruits. Just like most other light-induced secondary metabolites, production of these carotenoids occurs at a faster rate as light intensity increases.
CONCLUSION
We know that the proportion of wavelengths supplied to plants as well as intensity completely changes the photomorphogenic outcomes as well as phytochemical concentrations (secondary metabolites). Increasing light intensity induces production of various secondary metabolites in plants as a form of protection. Blue and UV light have the most powerful influence on secondary metabolism relative to other wavelengths and this scales with intensity. From a production standpoint, these metabolites often improve product quality both due to their medicinal benefits in humans as well as crop coloring effects. This differs depending on the genetics at play with much variability among species. Some species are more tolerant to this response and require higher light intensities to show any response while others do not. One proven method to “get the best of both worlds” is to utilize an EOP treatment in which plants grow and develop under optimal conditions for primary metabolism (broad spectrum), and are then transferred beneath a secondary metabolism promoting light treatment (higher intensity or specific wavelengths) prior to harvest after major crop growth has occurred. Overall, the most important aspect to remember is that secondary metabolism diverts resources away from plant growth. When selecting or making any changes to your lighting system, consider these innate plant responses to ensure your system is optimal for your intended species and market.
(All Im asking is how much quantum board led light is considered too much light? In turn becoming counterproductive to what it is we're attempting to acheive here. Fluence led obviously has no problem whatsoever discussing the subject. I've yet to hear from the experts on this thread concerning the subject)
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
You are talking about going 1200w air cooled to 1040w non air cooled. You might find you need to increase extraction. Before I switched to cool tubes with hps I really struggled to maintain temps ( with open reflectors )with the fans I had, when I added the cool tubes it did make a huge difference. So going 1200w cooled to 1040w (plus drivers) you might actually see a slight increase in temps.
But the solution there would be either go Maguyver or increase air exchange..
There is a simple calculation to work out the cfm required to meet the desired temp rise from ambient at given wattages..
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
@Little Dog
This is not my work, its copied from another forum. Credit goes to Anonamiss.
It boils down to CFM = 3.16 x Watts / DT(°F)
Watts is the lighting power (and any other 'hot' things in the grow space) in Watts.
DT is the allowable temperature rise within the enclosure (i.e. desired temperature minus ambient temperature) in °F.
So, to work out the size of fan required (in CFM) simply plug your lighting Wattage into the equation along with the DT value.
An example is:
Ambient temerature = 20 °C
Target temperature of the enclosure = 25 °C
DT in °C = 25 - 20 = 5
DT in °F = 5 x (9 / 5) = 9
Lighting Wattage = 250 Watts
Plugging these values into the equation gives:
CFM = 3.16 x 250 / 9 = 87.77
This represents the actual throughput required but it doesn't take account of the static pressure necessary to overcome the system impedance (how hard the fan has to suck or blow). But for a free-air system with no ducting or filters it should be fairly accurate.
For those who want a bit more info on how to work it out, here it is.
First, you'll need to know the amount of heat that needs to be dissipated.
The general equation for heat transfer is:
q = Cp x W x DT
where:
q = amount of heat transferred
Cp = specific heat of air
DT = allowable temperature rise within the enclosure
W = mass flow
Mass flow is defined as:
W = CFM x Density
DT is the difference between the ambient air (room) temperature and the target temperature inside the grow space in °F.
At sea level the density of air is 1.2041 kg/m3 (at 20°C) and the specific heat capacity (under typical room conditions) is 1.006 kJ/kgC. After doing some substitution and conversion this gives:
CFM = 3.16 x Watts / DT(°F)
Sleezygeezy
Well-Known Member
I've completely converted my veg to diy qb120 fixtures. My flowering is in the process of getting 2 qb a/c hoods w/ 2-qb324's in each hood. So I have not done any flowering underneath em yet. But if u have problems with heat like I do, and you already have an a/c hood exhaust system in place like I do, It was an easy decision for me to retrofit hoods for a/c Qb's. It should be the same setup as a/c hps but your air conditioner should be working alot less. With less wattage in lighting the same area as before, it should be alot easier to regulate temp and save $ in not using the air conditioner as frequently. That is what I am doing. I love my hps too. But if I can do the same for less, that is my goal. Good luck with your setup.
Sleezygeezy
Well-Known Member
The specs on ur Blockbuster hoods show the glass frame is 25.6"×25.6". That seems a little big for a 600w replacement. My xtrasun's are 20"×21". It might be easier and less bulky to retrofit them into a 1000w hps replacement with 4-Qb's at around 500watts. Not sure if that would fit though. U might wanna ask @Stephenj37826 what would best fit the hoods u already have and what your light footprint would be.
Edit: Since u already have the qb's, 3 of em in a blockbuster hood around 320watts should replace your 600hps. Not sure what drivers u have and if you would need different drivers to wire em in that configuration.
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Sleezygeezy
Well-Known Member
Also, if you are trying to replace only 1200w of hps, u should only need around 700w of Qb. Depending on spacing and Qty of Qb's.
Little Dog
Well-Known Member
Man, I am overwhelmed with the response. Thank you to everyone. Yeah, I can fit two 260’s inside each hood. The 320’s would be to big. I was thinking if I kept the hoods with the 260’s I could dial’em back to about 175 Watts each. 700 total watts from the four, I was hoping that would be equal somewhat to what I have now. I’d need a piece of aluminum cut to replace the glass in my hood. I’d have slots cut out for the boards. Man I’m new to all this stuff with the led’s. I bought a 320 kit from HLG. Use it in my momma room. It’s great. Love it.
But I’m pretty sure I’m gonna do as @Sleezygeezy suggested. Keep the hoods on standby. Give it a try without’em. And go from there. But I’m thinking I’ll end up using the hoods with led.
Would the four 260’s dialed back to 175 be similar to where I’m at now with the two HPS 600’s? I appreciate you guys. Thanks again for the response.
But I’m pretty sure I’m gonna do as @Sleezygeezy suggested. Keep the hoods on standby. Give it a try without’em. And go from there. But I’m thinking I’ll end up using the hoods with led.
Would the four 260’s dialed back to 175 be similar to where I’m at now with the two HPS 600’s? I appreciate you guys. Thanks again for the response.
Sleezygeezy
Well-Known Member
It should be damm close but remember the led footprint will depend on spacing. Whereas the hps took advantage of the reflector it was in & the reflector made the footprint. That's why my Daystar 6's were kinda useless for retrofit. They were too small to replicate the same footprint with qb's.
Little Dog
Well-Known Member
I understand. The two would be spaced about eight inches apart inside hood. There’s twelve inches between the hoods themselves. I use a Aeroflow 60. So it’s only a 4 X 6 really. I’m thinking the spacing would be about right.
With the boards where the glass was, the reflector part of the hood wouldn’t really come into play. I’m pretty sure I’m gonna end up using the hoods. But we’ll see. Thanks my friend.
Little Dog
Well-Known Member
G
Good idea! Thanks.
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
QB light is no different than any other light - stay within the range of 500-1000 uMols/s/m2 at the canopy and you will be fine. Light levels are a subject thats been discussed in numerous threads ad infinitum. QBs are not unique. They follow the same lighting guidelines as any other light source.
Little Dog
Well-Known Member
Hey @Sleezygeezy! One more question. Would the intensity of the diode be diminished enough to matter if the glass was left on the hood? The heatsink and qb’s would be behind glass. I can mount the heatsink and driver inside the hood without putting any undo pressure on the glass. I was gonna take the glass out and use aluminum with the boards framed within the aluminum. But leaving the glass in would make it lots easier and quicker to do. Any thoughts on that?