DWC from clone - 3 weeks NEED HELP! yellow + dying

scottster038

Active Member
:joint: Hello rollitup community :joint:

When it comes to growing, you guys know it all, so I'm positive you can help me out here, +rep if ya can!! When I recieved the clone she was about 1 1/2 weeks old. I vegged for another week then topped her. Downhill since with yellow and burnt leaves, stunded growth, etc..

Running a DWC system
- 2800cc aqua culture airpump, dual
- x2 8" airstones
- 4 gallon bucket
- 190watts CFL variety
- pH: unknown. (I have a Digital pH meter coming any day now)

One more thing, before the digital pH tester arrives, I already two bottles of pH up and pH down that I got from the Pet Store awhile back (they are small). Are those adequate enough for controlling the pH?
Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers! :peace:
 

wiimb

New Member
looks like your plants are needing feed and maybe there ph sorting
you hav a ppm meter right?
 

scottster038

Active Member
Thanks for quick response!

Yea I'm worried about putting the nutrients in there until that pH meter comes. And Can I even sort the pH with the up and down stuff i got from the PetStore? I do have the GH grow, mirco, and bloom.
And no.. I don't have a ppm meter, guess I'm in serious need of one of those? Guess i didn't realize you can't just wing it.
 

wiimb

New Member
defo need one pal or you wont know weather the plants are getting over feed or under feed )
 

Bluejeans

Well-Known Member
Chances are you are probably only going to need either pH up or pH down, but rarely both. Your tap water's pH is what it is and it isn't going to fluctuate much. Nutes will make a little difference, but again, you really only need one unless you use too much and have to counter-adjust. For me, my tap water comes out at 8.0 (yuk) meaning I have to add pH down to bring it down to 5.5. Takes about 1/8 tsp per gallon for me. I never need up.

The little bottle will get you started, but as soon as you can afford it, you should go ahead and get a bigger bottle. Depending on the pH of your tap water, this is something you will need a lot of for the whole time you grow.

Any ANY ppm meter is better than no ppm meter. And my first pH test kit was drops that I put in a water sample and compared to a color chart. $4 Not perfectly accurate, but better than nothing at all.
 

scottster038

Active Member
Chances are you are probably only going to need either pH up or pH down, but rarely both. Your tap water's pH is what it is and it isn't going to fluctuate much. Nutes will make a little difference, but again, you really only need one unless you use too much and have to counter-adjust. For me, my tap water comes out at 8.0 (yuk) meaning I have to add pH down to bring it down to 5.5. Takes about 1/8 tsp per gallon for me. I never need up.

The little bottle will get you started, but as soon as you can afford it, you should go ahead and get a bigger bottle. Depending on the pH of your tap water, this is something you will need a lot of for the whole time you grow.

Any ANY ppm meter is better than no ppm meter. And my first pH test kit was drops that I put in a water sample and compared to a color chart. $4 Not perfectly accurate, but better than nothing at all.
Bluejeans thanks for the info. So then I should have PPM meter coming on her way here shortly also. What is a desired ppm for the plant? And how would I be able to adjust the ppm per say its at 300 or 1000? Is there some sort of solution for that or does just adding Nutrients fluctuate it?
 

Bluejeans

Well-Known Member
Bluejeans thanks for the info. So then I should have PPM meter coming on her way here shortly also. What is a desired ppm for the plant? And how would I be able to adjust the ppm per say its at 300 or 1000? Is there some sort of solution for that or does just adding Nutrients fluctuate it?
First of all, what is right for the plant will depend on the plant. Start low and work your way up depending on what the plant likes and how she reacts to changes. You'll see...

And yes, you alter your ppm (raise it) by adding nutes. First off, once you get your pH meter and ppm meter, bring your water to the correct pH, which is typically between 5.5 and 6.0 for hydro (most folks aim for 5.8 or so). Then use your ppm meter to test your water before you add any nutes. That will give you a baseline ppm. Let's say, for conversation sake that your tap water tests at 100ppms.

Now, start by adding about 1/4 as much nutes as the feeding schedule on your bottle calls for. Write it down and watch how your plants react. If they perk up, green up, or do nothing, then 24 hours later, you might try adding 1/4 strength more. Continue like this until you reach full strength (don't exceed full strength recommendations) or until your plants show signs that they have enough -- learn to stop at enough and don't push them all the way to nute burn. If the leaves start getting a darker green, but do not show any signs of brown on the tips or the veins, then they are "full" and don't want any more nutes...and they have a little surplus, which is what is making them dark green. Note the ppms at this point and make that your max for now.

As your plants grow and consume water and nutes, you'll want to check them every day or as often as possible (if your grow is not at your home location). When you add back water, add plain pH'd water only. Keep tabs on how much you add. Do not add any more nutes until you have replaced about 1/2 of your water. Example: if you have a 5 gallon reservoir and your girl drinks a 1/2 gallon a day, then you wouldn't add any nutes for at least 5 days (1/2 gallon x 5 = 2.5 gallon or half your res). Test you ppm daily and when you've replaced half your res with plain water, bring you nutes back up to where she was at "happy point".

That's the basics for a newbie. As you learn to read your plants, you will be able to better fine tune that to fit your specific strains needs. But this will give you a baseline start and hopefully keep you from frying your tender babies with too much nutrients.

Happy growing!
 
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