DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

dirk d said:

woo! just read the entire thread over the last couple days. im having some problems seeing straight lol. Just wanted to say thank you Professor Heisenberg for sharing this knowledge. I just started brewing my tea last night. I wasn't sure about a couple items i put in the tea but i'll list everything i got. I didn't realize the formula was changed till this morning lol.

(2) gallon R/O water purified water from store

Xtreme gardening mykos (couldnt find the zho but was given a sample pack)

Ancient Forest (.5) cu ft

Big Worm Earthworm Castings

Aquashield

Great White

Earth Juice Mollases

I grow in a SB Aeroponic/NFT rail setup. iv noticed very low yields, but my yields are going up over last 2 harvests, lots of pm and generally brown roots.Im using the pbp lineup Grow, Bloom, Liquid Karma, Silica Blast, Aquashield,Hydroplex, Cal Mag, Sweet and do a clearex flush every 2-3 weeks. I don't have a chiller but been keeping res temps between 67-72 with frozen water bottles. Also i have 20 gallon reservoirs.

View attachment 1818287
View attachment 1818288 Can you tell me what you think of these roots?? these were from my last harvest went 65 days. Yield was subpar as well but quality was pretty good

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Hey guys any thoughts on this??? also got another question heisenburg, if my nute schedule calls for aquashield, sweet and great white i dont need those anymore when im using the bene tea mix correct??? also after about 6 days on the bene tea i have noticed much stronger thicker roots. thanks guys.

dirk d said:

Hey guys any thoughts on this??? also got another question heisenburg, if my nute schedule calls for aquashield, sweet and great white i dont need those anymore when im using the bene tea mix correct??? also after about 6 days on the bene tea i have noticed much stronger thicker roots. thanks guys.

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Looks like your schedule is okay. Your are correct, you don't need the microbes and sweet with the tea. I am curious as to why you flush every couple weeks? Clearex should be used at the end of the grow as far as I know. It actually does a good job and can shorten the flush time to as little as 3 days. I can't see the benefit of flushing out the plant during the time when it needs energy for production. Also it looks as if those roots were a little cramped. Perhaps consider bigger containers or shorter veg time. With monster roots like that you should have great yields. Looks like you can certainly grow some plants though, good job, just need a little tweaking.

I read an article about innoculants and synergy and I have to say it seems like this takes the cake seeing as you're establishing your own environment of organisms that work together before you throw them in, diversely.

Anyways the idea behind the article was innoculants in nature have much more strength in synergy because they're used to their environment and they have diversity, unlike single bottle lab brews.

Just thought that was interesting to see an article on.. usually only see ads =p

Heisenberg, before I reported a snot-like substance in my pumps.

I have a 3x3 Ebb and Flow table, 40 gallon rez, GH Flora, 29% H2O2 added @ 5ml/gal every 3-5 days.

Now, the color of the substance has changed to a light yellowish color.

I have included some pics. Any information you have would be very much appreciated. Thank you for your time.

View attachment 1839954View attachment 1839955

Hey gang
I just bought some myco grow soluable : http://www.fungi.com/mycogrow/index.html
Because it seemed to me I won't need to add aqua shield or other trichoderma products. Just EC casing, mycogrow and molasses.
I know that others are using this product and I'm wondering how much they add per gallon of water. 1 tbs? 1/2 tbs?

Thanks!

Thanks for posting that Heis, I was about to start looking for it. I know the tea is working in flower. Most all the roots are solid white. There are a few "diatom blooms" though. I dropped to 900ppms and they have been drinking like crazy. The ppms are the same after drinking over a gallon each a day so i think this is there equilibrium. Im going to keep the ppms the same till somthing changes. Now, I just been LITFA and and Soo pleased at least one thing is going right.

Veg seems transplanted too young. I hope they root more quickly and start to green up. I switched from tea to h202 and the brown is no more. Ill let them root a bunch and then try tea again.

My dwc clones have just started all rooting. There's a but of white mold or somthing at the root collar though. Roots are thriving and solid white? Should I spray with h202?

I would try to use a different water source but am currently using an RO unit. I also have to wash everything with the well water so no matter his sterile I keep somthing. A simple wash re contaminates

Heisenberg said:

enzymes are basically the stuff that bacteria makes that breaks down organic material, like dead roots. Adding something like hygrozyme is like adding the good stuff from the bacteria without adding the microbes themselves. I know this sounds like a great idea, but in a DWC enzyme products can be a huge trigger of the slime. If you are already infected and you add an enzyme, the slime will feed and explode out of control in less than a day.

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Your the only other person I seen that has figured that out. Enzyme products can cause the slime.

I really wish this thread had a sub thread that had a compilation of factual information in one place. I want a little more kick in my flower stage, just not sure if I should change diversity of my tea or change the amounts im adding.

legallyflying said:

Hey gang
I just bought some myco grow soluable : http://www.fungi.com/mycogrow/index.html
Because it seemed to me I won't need to add aqua shield or other trichoderma products. Just EC casing, mycogrow and molasses.
I know that others are using this product and I'm wondering how much they add per gallon of water. 1 tbs? 1/2 tbs?

Thanks!

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1 tsp per gallon.

Does anyone here add tea to any soil plants? Any suggestions for dose?

Has anyone ran any side by side comparisons of the original recipe VS a deviation of it? Im looking for more diversity.

I have at my disposal
-zho
-aquashield
-subculture b
-subculture m
-ancient forest.
-molasses
-an bud candy

My batches I made with the original would foam in a day and stop foaming about 40hrs. It would start foaming again when I added it to the rez. The new tea, with subcultures added, doesn't ever foam. Im sure the tea brew is right at 76-78*. It doesn't foam in the rez either. What's the foam mean?

Also. I hear lots if debate on using subculture b only vs using b and m. Does anyone have an opinion they would like to share?

Thanks

Inspired by recent posts as well as the Breaking Bad finale (I was... blown away



Please forgive the attempt at humor

Do you recommend squeezing the sock if that is the method of choice. I squeezed my sock and now I have quite a bit of fine sediment. Is it ok to strain out all sediment and just use the water int he rez. First pour I put all, but my rez is pretty dirty now but I don't mind because the slime is gone and roots have exploded.

legallyflying said:

Hey gang
I just bought some myco grow soluable : http://www.fungi.com/mycogrow/index.html
Because it seemed to me I won't need to add aqua shield or other trichoderma products. Just EC casing, mycogrow and molasses.
I know that others are using this product and I'm wondering how much they add per gallon of water. 1 tbs? 1/2 tbs?

Thanks!

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Hey dusty bowls, aren't you using mycogrow?

wheeelman said:

Do you recommend squeezing the sock if that is the method of choice. I squeezed my sock and now I have quite a bit of fine sediment. Is it ok to strain out all sediment and just use the water int he rez. First pour I put all, but my rez is pretty dirty now but I don't mind because the slime is gone and roots have exploded.

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The tea will work fine without squeezing the sock, and just fine if you do. I personally no longer mind if my water gets cloudy or has sediment. When I was first coming out of the slime war it was hard to ignore every little odd thing with the roots. Now I've learned that it doesn't really matter as long as there is no smell and noticeable new shoots or tips. It has been some time since I have bothered to filter my tea but I do make an effort to avoid adding obvious chunks or debris to the res.

legallyflying said:

Hey dusty bowls, aren't you using mycogrow?

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Nope. I had already purchased the aquashield and Zho. I wanted to get my $s worth. I was given some subcultures so inward going to try to work them into the mix.

I just figured if the original method works, might as well use what I've already bought?

I use myco madness by humbolt not mycogrow through

Hmmm. Well it might be worth checking out for you guys then. All that guy does is produce and sell myco products so it stands tO reason that he knows what he is talking about.

Plus always nice to avoid the "hydro" mark up and eliminating one of the needed products (Aqua shield)

Heisenberg said:

Looks like your schedule is okay. Your are correct, you don't need the microbes and sweet with the tea. I am curious as to why you flush every couple weeks? Clearex should be used at the end of the grow as far as I know. It actually does a good job and can shorten the flush time to as little as 3 days. I can't see the benefit of flushing out the plant during the time when it needs energy for production. Also it looks as if those roots were a little cramped. Perhaps consider bigger containers or shorter veg time. With monster roots like that you should have great yields. Looks like you can certainly grow some plants though, good job, just need a little tweaking.

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Thanks heisenburg, appreciate you taking a look at my setup. couple questions though

1) so i am going to stop adding the aquashield, great white and sweet to my nute mix and just use the bene tea

2) should i stop using liquid karma??

3) How far into flower can i use the bene tea?? around week 6 i use the hydroplex and PBP Bloom for soil -- high P

4) as far as flushing every few weeks, well i just dont know lol i was told to flush every few weeks with clearex so thats what im doing lol. I am now going to adjust my clearex flush to when the girls transfer from the veg room to the flower room and then clearex flush again at 35 days then a final water flush at 56 days.

thanks again for all your advice

You can pretty much ditch the clearex. I've found that it was only a tiny tiny bit more effective at leaching salts than plain ol water.

yeah no need to flush @ 35 days in flower... doing that halts the bud production train CHOO CHOOOOOOO