Dyna-Grow + Koolbloom ? good idea or no ?

I think a lot of people overlook that you need a good N base in order to use bloom foods

if you transplanted into something a month ago, chances are what was in there for N , is all gone.
with hydro i've found something with a 3-1-2 ratio will keep plants healthy and green through flower, even in veg
i use dyna foliage pro on hydro and soil, and it works

i think a lot of people make the mistake of thinking Kool bloom and other PK additives are good with other bloom foods, and forget that the nitrogen is crucial to use that food

with that said, if using these be sure there is the N source to balance the diet, hope this helps



with protekt, i use 50 ppm early veg, 100 ppm late veg early flower, then back off everything when i go late into flower
things are different in hydro though, but not much different if you treat it correctly

the back of the bottle i think says 1/2tsp/gal = 100ppm



a lot of people say there's silica in their soil, but it makes a huge difference to have a good amount of silica (not saying feed it a shit ton, just know it's a good additive)

a mongo frog said:

i don't see how adding a ripener (thats what its listed under) the last 3 weeks of flower is a bad idea. plenty of people use that or a similar recipe and r throwing out super dank flowers. to me what the op listed as his recipe is super perfect plant diet to throw out super dank. just my opinion.

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I pk boost at the end also. I get only very minimal yellowing at the end. When koolbloom first came out(called kabloom at first) I wasn't using jack shit on top of our nutes (flora series). Well, of course we had to try it, and i've been hooked ever since. Then we just started adjusting the ratios at the end to 1micro/3bloom, and ditched the
Koolbloom. I've been rockin' cns-17 for base lately, I achieve a pk boost by switching to "ripe" for the last few weeks. Works killer, super easy. Pumping up the P and the K at the end are completely unnecessary, but i'm still convinced it makes for harder nugs in the end. I like harder nugs lol, NO small buds here either! Besides, the flowers should be big by the time you pk boost anyways.

There's only one way for the OP to find out if adding powder koolbloom for the last 2.5-3 weeks is gonna be best, and that will be to experiment with it.

I think dg grow has way too much N to use in flower.

Stoned Drifter said:

yup. some good kelp with a good amount of K is good too.

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is the kelp from Home Depot any good ? do you know?

not sure. haven't look for kelp there. I forgot u are using dyna bloom instead of grow. compared to N dyna bloom has a bunch of K in it.

Hydroburn said:

I think dg grow has way too much N to use in flower.

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being that there are different Dyna-gros and different mediums. the trick is to find which one works best in which medium. Try pro-mix with just foliage -pro and you will see what I mean. just throwing out a general statement like that shows you really don't know what you're talking about.

Remember that the OP was asking about a specific combination of koolbloom and dynagrow bloom. I agree with homebrewer that it's too much P and K.

If you were using foliage pro, the question would completely different. Homebrewer was saying that DG bloom contains enough P and K which is true. Adding more will cause yellowing. That doesn't mean that adding more P and K is always bad.

I think everyone should have a few pounds of mono potassium phosphate (KH2PO4) laying around. It's very cheap, and straight to the point. Products like koolbloom are just handing away your money.

chuck estevez said:

being that there are different Dyna-gros and different mediums. the trick is to find which one works best in which medium. Try pro-mix with just foliage -pro and you will see what I mean. just throwing out a general statement like that shows you really don't know what you're talking about.

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everyone is throwing out generalized statements. that's the point dumb ass.

Hydroburn said:

everyone is throwing out generalized statements. that's the point dumb ass.

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you make a stupid statement. That's the point??. and I'm the dumbass?? LMFAO

chuck estevez said:

and I'm the dumbass??

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now you're learning.

Hydroburn said:

now you're learning.

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And with the quote below, you have A LOT of learning to do.

Hydroburn said:

I think dg grow has way too much N to use in flower.

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sure thing champ. I think I'll pass on the dark green leathery eagle clawed leafs in week 3 of bloom.

N requirements of a plant in bloom are ridiculously easy to meet. not really interested in anon randoms on the internet telling me to run FP from bean to bloom. I can see for myself using grow, when the plants look like a million dollars in veg, and then N toxicity sets in 2-3 weeks after switching to bloom. keep on with the blanket bad advice though; at the end of the day it doesn't matter to me what you use on your garden.

leafs yellowing at the end of the season is normal btw. look out the window next October.

Hydroburn said:

now you're learning.

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learning from a douchebag with a name like hydro BURN? again, LMFAO!!!!!

Hydroburn said:

sure thing champ. I think I'll pass on the dark green leathery eagle clawed leafs in week 3 of bloom.

N requirements of a plant in bloom are ridiculously easy to meet. not really interested in anon randoms on the internet telling me to run FP from bean to bloom. I can see for myself using grow, when the plants look like a million dollars in veg, and then N toxicity sets in 2-3 weeks after switching to bloom. keep on with the blanket bad advice though; at the end of the day it doesn't matter to me what you use on your garden.

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just because you like to burn everything and have no grow skills, don't blame the DG

sorry, your opinion on user names and avatars is invalid.

chuck estevez said:

just because you like to burn everything and have no grow skills, don't blame the DG

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450ppm isn't going to burn anything. do you have anything remotely intelligent to say... or just trying your hardest to think up any nonsense you can to talk shit?

Hydroburn said:

450ppm isn't going to burn anything. do you have anything remotely intelligent to say... or just trying your hardest to think up any nonsense you can to talk shit?

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just showing that you are the real dumbass. keep replying and proving my point. thanks.

Hydroburn said:

sure thing champ. I think I'll pass on the dark green leathery eagle clawed leafs in week 3 of bloom.

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That's operator error, champ .

N requirements of a plant in bloom are ridiculously easy to meet. not really interested in anon randoms on the internet telling me to run FP from bean to bloom. I can see for myself using grow, when the plants look like a million dollars in veg, and then N toxicity sets in 2-3 weeks after switching to bloom. keep on with the blanket bad advice though; at the end of the day it doesn't matter to me what you use on your garden.

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Again, operator error.

High N formula below from seed to present day (week 7):

leafs yellowing at the end of the season is normal btw. look out the window next October.

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You need to do some research on annuals vs perennials and how that's related to 'yellowing'. My room doesn't have October weather, does yours?

homebrewer said:

That's operator error, champ .

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you are correct; running DG Grow in flower was operator error on my part.