early harvesting techniques for northeast

dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
hello everyone,

I have this question in another forum, but i thought it was better placed in advanced cultivation.

I would like everyone to share with me their experiences with early harvests, particularly in the northeast.

my idea is that if i induce flowering indoors before i set the clones outdoors, that they will continue to flower if i put them outside early enough. The question is....how early??

According to the farmers alminac, in april, the length of day will be just short of 13 hours, and that is one month before the predicted last frost date.

as the months progress the time of daylight obviously gets longer up until the fall time when flowering naturally occurs. may 14 hours, june 15 hours, ect

now, im under the assumsion that this will not work because the plant will re-vegitate itself, but last outdoor season, i had one early harvested plant that flowered as soon as i put it outside, and didnt stop flowering...

anybody with experience on this??:wall:

heres the pick of the early bloomeremilys pics 005.jpgemilys pics 004.jpg
 
seasmoke

seasmoke

Active Member
I'll be doing some early harvests....i'll use daylite for 12 hrs, then put them in the dark. I should be able to harvest all spring, summer and fall...
 
dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
ur talking about physically moving the plants to a dark location for their dark period? i would not be able to do that unless i build a greenhouse.

maybe if i cover them with black tarp every night, but that sounds nuts..
 
seasmoke

seasmoke

Active Member
Its not nuts. you can tie ropes between trees in the shape of a cape house, cap both ends and the sides if you wanted and draw a green tarp back and forth over the ropes and viola, a retractable roof...
 
Total Head

Total Head

Well-Known Member
dudemandigo said:
hello everyone,

I have this question in another forum, but i thought it was better placed in advanced cultivation.

I would like everyone to share with me their experiences with early harvests, particularly in the northeast.

my idea is that if i induce flowering indoors before i set the clones outdoors, that they will continue to flower if i put them outside early enough. The question is....how early??

According to the farmers alminac, in april, the length of day will be just short of 13 hours, and that is one month before the predicted last frost date.

as the months progress the time of daylight obviously gets longer up until the fall time when flowering naturally occurs. may 14 hours, june 15 hours, ect

now, im under the assumsion that this will not work because the plant will re-vegitate itself, but last outdoor season, i had one early harvested plant that flowered as soon as i put it outside, and didnt stop flowering...

anybody with experience on this??:wall:

heres the pick of the early bloomerView attachment 1389794View attachment 1389795
Click to expand...
the problem with your idea is highlighted in bold, and you touched on it yourself. if you put a plant outside before the middle of june, it will only reveg itself regardless of where it was at before you moved it, which will probably stunt it, and this may in fact make it take longer in the long run. as far as what happened with that plant last year i cannot say, but i definately would not expect to be able to replicate that. if you're talking about physically blocking the light to make your own cycle, then that's a different story. that could be done but it sounds like a big fat pain in the ass.
 
seasmoke

seasmoke

Active Member
if you're talking about physically blocking the light to make your own cycle, then that's a different story. that could be done but it sounds like a big fat pain in the ass.
Click to expand...
well thats just what he needs to do to be successfull from april to october.Whats the real pain in the ass is waiting all the way to Octeber before a harvest. ONE Harvest...yea you might have to work at it, but I garentee that you can harvest 6 plants every three weeks all summer long using this method...you get them girls 24 in tall then flip them under this method?you be smilin...
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
In the south, I've planted Mexican seeds outdoors in spring, sexed them by covering them with large garbage cans, pulled the males, and they reverted back to veg for about 3 or 4 weeks and finished in late November, as a "pure" cannabis plant should.

Other outdoor crops using the typical breeder mutts you find nowadays seem to be autoflowering types, which means they contain ruderalis genes. My last two outdoors plants were sexing by the 6th node, in April! Dutch and Canadian "breeders" are notorious for throwing in rudy genes for autoflowering, which may or may not dilute the potency. (Ruderalis has little to no THC). If you live north of say.......45* lat, you almost need to use autoflowering types, unless........

If I was in the NE, I'd germ indica dominant mutts (seeds) around May, plant them outdoors and they should be showing sex by late August finishing up in 6-8 weeks.

Not sure why you would want to induce flowering indoors as opposed to relying on a natural photoperiod. Chance too of inducing hermies.

You plan your garden so that you have good development regarding foliage and root production and let nature do the rest. Don't worry about flowering or the buds, concentrate your efforts on the bulk and health of the foliage and root system.

Good luck,
UB
 
dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
Uncle Ben said:
In the south, I've planted Mexican seeds outdoors in spring, sexed them by covering them with large garbage cans, pulled the males, and they reverted back to veg for about 3 or 4 weeks and finished in late November, as a "pure" cannabis plant should.

Other outdoor crops using the typical breeder mutts you find nowadays seem to be autoflowering types, which means they contain ruderalis genes. My last two outdoors plants were sexing by the 6th node, in April! Dutch and Canadian "breeders" are notorious for throwing in rudy genes for autoflowering, which may or may not dilute the potency. (Ruderalis has little to no THC). If you live north of say.......45* lat, you almost need to use autoflowering types, unless........

If I was in the NE, I'd germ indica dominant mutts (seeds) around May, plant them outdoors and they should be showing sex by late August finishing up in 6-8 weeks.

Not sure why you would want to induce flowering indoors as opposed to relying on a natural photoperiod. Chance too of inducing hermies.

You plan your garden so that you have good development regarding foliage and root production and let nature do the rest. Don't worry about flowering or the buds, concentrate your efforts on the bulk and health of the foliage and root system.

Good luck,
UB
Click to expand...

thanks for all the replies guys..

Im going to just put the seedlings out in mid may, and focus on bringing compost teas up to the sites. Way to much work would be involved by having to cover them every night to produce an early harvest. My site is a half hour hike up hill so it just wouldnt even make sence to try.

and as for what happened last season with the early bloomer, i suppose i got an autoflowering seed somehow that grew a female autoflower plant. I had gotten seeds from an old timer thats been saving random seeds from their chronic. I wont try to replicate that as i am not a big fan of autoflowers, and i am going for over all yield this year.

i hate NY's short grow season....cant wait for the move to florida!
 
dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
"Instead, they noted that creating wide planting holes with loosened soil provides a
greater benefit than amendments, particularly in compacted soils. Henderson-Cole and
Hensley (1992) also studied F. pennsylvanica and found that soil amendments had little
effect on plant growth and did not benefit root establishment. "

"Conclusion
If you are working in an urban landscape or other area utilizing “permanent”
plantings, amending the soil upon transplanting is not advisable. Doing so will at best
provide a temporary boost to the plants, and at worst seriously harm or even kill your
plants and other beneficial organisms. To provide the benefits attributed to the soil
amendments in a more natural, sustainable manner, apply wood chips, compost, or
other organic matter atop the soil as a mulch. "



WOW.....this made me re-think everything i know, or thought i knew, about soil/amendments.

So, I will try it this way. It so happens that i have 3 buckets of Heavy Harvest Time release, the spring, summer, and fall blends.

How do you suggest i go about this?

Did holes 3x3x3 just to loosen up the soil, should i add the time release nutes in small doses? The fall blend at the bottom of the hole, the spring and summer blends mixed in the rest? Then i would transplant the seedlings, and create a mulch layer on top of each plant.

I have ZERO experience with mulch, what would you use as layer of mulch? I would think earthworm castings.


and when you say " thick layer of mulch extending out to the drip line" do you mean drip line from irrigation system? I wasnt planning on setting one up because its usually pretty wet here.

thanks for all of the info here!:clap:
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
dudemandigo said:
"Instead, they noted that creating wide planting holes with loosened soil provides a
greater benefit than amendments, particularly in compacted soils. Henderson-Cole and
Hensley (1992) also studied F. pennsylvanica and found that soil amendments had little
effect on plant growth and did not benefit root establishment. "

"Conclusion
If you are working in an urban landscape or other area utilizing “permanent”
plantings, amending the soil upon transplanting is not advisable. Doing so will at best
provide a temporary boost to the plants, and at worst seriously harm or even kill your
plants and other beneficial organisms. To provide the benefits attributed to the soil
amendments in a more natural, sustainable manner, apply wood chips, compost, or
other organic matter atop the soil as a mulch. "



WOW.....this made me re-think everything i know, or thought i knew, about soil/amendments.

So, I will try it this way. It so happens that i have 3 buckets of Heavy Harvest Time release, the spring, summer, and fall blends.

How do you suggest i go about this?

Did holes 3x3x3 just to loosen up the soil, should i add the time release nutes in small doses? The fall blend at the bottom of the hole, the spring and summer blends mixed in the rest? Then i would transplant the seedlings, and create a mulch layer on top of each plant.

I have ZERO experience with mulch, what would you use as layer of mulch? I would think earthworm castings.


and when you say " thick layer of mulch extending out to the drip line" do you mean drip line from irrigation system? I wasnt planning on setting one up because its usually pretty wet here.

thanks for all of the info here!:clap:
Click to expand...
In order to advise correctly, I need to know something about the where and when. IOW, what's the native soil like? Clay or sand? Rainfall amount? pH?

Digging a 3'X3' hole? I don't think so.

I've had excellent results dropping a robust growing plant growing in a 3 gallon pot of good potting soil, into a 3" deep hole I dig with a shovel. Choose a black commercial pot that has 4- 6 drainholes. The roots will eventually grow into native soil. You apply water/food to the pot which eventually goes into the native soil that will nourish your plant. Call it "sustainable gardening", the lazy man's way.

Otherwise, pop out the transplant and plant it into native soil, then mulch with grass clppings, leaves, pine needles, green wood shavings from a lumber mill, etc.
Throw down a handfull of Osmocote one time at planting, 6 month or longer release, scratch in around the plant with your foot or using a hand rake, and don't worry about it.

There's no need to be a slave to your plants.

"Drip line" means outside of the canopy.

Good luck,
UB
 
dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
ok its going to be around mid may time in NY, and the native soil is soft, and slightly clay like, but covered in grass like a medow. It usually rains atleast once a week here, and the ph i beleve to be around 5.5-6 (tested last year).

So, what advantage does planting in a pot do? Versus just planting it in the native soil. ive never heard of this method, but sounds like it could work well. Again thank you for your help.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
dudemandigo said:
ok its going to be around mid may time in NY, and the native soil is soft, and slightly clay like, but covered in grass like a medow. It usually rains atleast once a week here, and the ph i beleve to be around 5.5-6 (tested last year).

So, what advantage does planting in a pot do? Versus just planting it in the native soil. ive never heard of this method, but sounds like it could work well. Again thank you for your help.
Click to expand...
Sounds like good conditions, as long as you have external and internal drainage. The advantage of dropping an established plant with pot into a shallow hole is:

1. No transplant shock,

2. No native soil amendments needed (less work),

3. Use of a timed release plant food mixed into the top of the pot eliminates need to feed.

Cons - Until the plant's roots grow into native soil thru the drainholes, you may need to water the pot more often. I run drip irrigation so for me it's just a matter of punching a hole into the poly pipe, punching in a 1 gph emitter, and positioning the pipe next to the trunk.

Also, when I upcan the seedling to a 3 gallon pot I stuff foam rubber into the holes which I pull out at the time I drop the established plant/pot into the ground.

If you do decide to go straight into native soil, then pinch off one or more of the lower leafsets with your nails as close to the trunk as possible, let the "wounds" callous over for a day, and bury the plant up to the lower leafset remaining. As with a tomato plant, you'll get double the amount of root output (along the buried trunk and at the node sites) which will increase drought resistance and plant vigor.

Keep weeds well away from the trunk either by hand pulling or a glyphosate spray using a 1 quart spray bottle. Needless to say, if any of the spray drift gets on the foliage to any great degree, your plants are toast. Beats the hell out of a "head down hiney up" drill. I use 41% glyphosate commercially (1 oz/gal.) and around my resident trees/gardens/roses/vines etc. and have never lost a plant....been doing it for 20 years.

UB
 
dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
great info i gave you +rep

I think im going to transplant directly into the native soil. Im going to germinate in beer cups and wait 2 or 3 weeks, and put them directly in the native soil after i weed the area. Then mix in spring/summer time released nutes on top of the soil, followed by some worm castings and some sort mulch that ill find(havent decided what to use).

I dont want to use above ground pots because i wont be able to visit the site often enough to give it waterings, and i dont want it to dry out. Building and irrigation system wouldnt be plausible, I have to stay low key because of the hunters and fishermen...


im considering putting up a game camera and a sign right next to the plant with a warning "warning, you are on camera"

do you think if a hunter saw this they would back away? im not sure...wat are your thoguhts?
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
dudemandigo said:
great info i gave you +rep
Click to expand...
I don't play that game, but thanks anyway.

Im considering putting up a game camera and a sign right next to the plant with a warning "warning, you are on camera"

do you think if a hunter saw this they would back away? im not sure...wat are your thoguhts?
Click to expand...
If a hunter comes across a camera and a sign that looks fishy, you done lost your camera LOL.

BTW, you add slow release foods one time, that's why they are called "slow release", they have a long feed expectancy. I use a Polyon product (the blue pellets you see in some commercial soil mixtures like Miracle Gro). It has a 10-12 month feeding period based on soil temps and moisture levels.

UB
 
dudemandigo

dudemandigo

Well-Known Member
last year at this same site, i spread around about 30 bagseed seedlings straight into the native soil in may. Came back at harvest time, and they were all nice big plants, very tall. It so happened to be, the only site that didnt get taken by police last year(this was my back-up site, in case of worst case scenario at my other 2 locations, witch ended up happening :finger: ). This year i will plant better genetics, and try to keep them bushy. I know this place is safe form the police, but im hopeing the local hunters dont get smart.

The very last time i went and harvested, on the way into the site. Me and a hunter spotted eachother. He was in a treestand and i was walking with a girl (my cover, because hopefully it looks like we are just going into the woods to fuck). He couldnt have seen where we ended up in the woods. But i cant stop thinking he might be wondering what we were doing, and im not sure if he got curious or not..my small open patch was atleast 1000 meters from where he was in the tree.

do think this site is unsecure? I would love to grow here again because its easy to get to for me, and all the plants grew large with little attendance and no harm from local animals. also, i have seen garbage left from another grower...red beer cups with strains written on them. Im assuming i should just stay put and hope things go well, because it did last year at this location. I would just hate to loose more crop tho :wall:
 
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