Ed is a legend with tons of good info, but sometimes he’s a little weak on the science.
Some people have been doing the following for 45 years. Quick and simple, excellent bud. Fancy gizmos not needed, just more marketing and another industry.
Pot CURES when cells have high water content and enzymes are still functioning. They break down some chlorophyll and other molecules, free nitrogen is reduced. Enzymes convert xanthophyll pigments to rose ketones (terpenes). The smoke is smooth, not harsh. These chemical reactions are part of modern tobacco curing.
Hang freshly trimmed buds in the dark. Relative humidity about 90%, but no condensation on the buds. About 80F because 60F to 73F is ideal for mould. A little continuous air exchange and circulation to remove ethylene gas. Sample daily. After 3 to 5 days, the buds should look and weigh about the same as they started.
DRY until almost ready to smoke. Terpene loss with drying is a function of time and temp. Many high quality herbs are dried with high airflow and low RH at 85F to retain maximum terpenes (essential oils). Lots of research, it’s big business.
Trim buds off stems. AGE about 1 week at room temp, airtight. Check daily, burp as needed. Leave open to finish drying. Store airtight and cold to slow chemical reactions that degrade THC and terpenes. (Or store airtight in the deep freezer right after aging. That little bit of extra moisture keeps the buds intact. Defrost sealed. Frost free freezer is sort of ok, insulate buds to reduce temp cycling)
Healthy buds don’t mould while curing. Don’t cure buds that have mould.
When drying slowly right after harvest, enzymes function until water content is too low. Some curing at the start of drying.
