Electricity!

one a cord in bad condition

or

they were overloaded.

they dont burst into flames because it is a cord and not romex...

they are both copper with insulation...

and they are rated for max amp draw just like anything else electrical...
 
because my ballest are muli wire and can do that most of them are. by switching to 220 volt to run your ballast that means you are pulling 3 to 4 amps not6 to 8 running 110 volt. the mopre amps you pull the chances of blowing a breaker is greater..

P=IxE 6 x 110 = 660 watts
P=IxE 3 x 220 = 660 watts

Besides, if you wire for a 220 ballast, than you need to change your line voltage to 220. You have a fundamental misunderstanding of electricity I'm sorry to say.

Edit: Maybe you do have an understanding but we are not communicating? 220 does indeed draw less current. However, the user would have to change the line voltage to accommodate the 220.
 
i am an electrician since i came out of high school, over a decade now, i have done fire jobs, new construction, remodels, grow room set ups.

built my own led boards, my own time control box with a digital timer controlling a 40 amp 220 volt contactor for my lighting.

still have cords here and there...
 
who here has a grow room with no extension cords???

anyone???
Ummm, me. I never said that your growroom will go up in flames because of using an extension cord. I simply said that they aren't safe to use for permanent or extended use with heavy loads. Just because you've not experienced a fire by using one doesn't mean that they are completely safe. There are many reasons other than fire that make them unsafe. Not everyone is an electrician or a firefighter so they may not realize that the cord they are using isn't suitable for the load they are pulling or that the cord isn't in good condition. If you choose to use extension cords, great. I just don't want people thinking this is a good option for getting more power to the growroom because it isn't IMO. Safety first! :mrgreen:
 
P=IxE 6 x 110 = 660 watts
P=IxE 3 x 220 = 660 watts

Besides, if you wire for a 220 ballast, than you need to change your line voltage to 220. You have a fundamental misunderstanding of electricity I'm sorry to say.

Edit: Maybe you do have an understanding but we are not communicating? 220 does indeed draw less current. However, the user would have to change the line voltage to accommodate the 220.
and thats hard to do. not really.
 
i completely agree that safety should always be number one.
i am always thinking safety. and when i talk about running mh bulbs in a hps ballast this is 100% safe too or lower watt bulb in a higher watt ballast.. perfectly safe.. i would not say this if it were not safe..
 
i am an electrician since i came out of high school, over a decade now, i have done fire jobs, new construction, remodels, grow room set ups.

built my own led boards, my own time control box with a digital timer controlling a 40 amp 220 volt contactor for my lighting.

still have cords here and there...
than your a sloppy electrician, no offense.
see this? its exactly 14:L x 6"H and cool to the touch.
0319002129.jpg
switches 1400w, 3 ballasts, 3 voltages, 2 cabs, 6 fans, temp overrides, room heat and a/c and many other nifty features. not a cord, powerstrip, or rigged cord end in the mix... every conductor is sized 140% minimum. and its still shitty work.

and whoever said residential structures often have the lights on a different circuit than the outlet in the same room apparently has never wired a house to begin with.... because in my more than 15 years in the trade I have never run a lighting circuit for bedroom lights.... there always fed off of the homerun outlet for the circuit in the room, which is in turn fed from a single arc fault breaker.... and thats code...

dont run HID fixtures off of cords... ever
. the reason being that cords are not rated for continuous duty inductive loads, which is exaclty what an HID lamp used for a grow op is! If you have no other option than cords, go CFL, or have an experienced, electrician (not your bro thats working his forst summer with his dad on a jobsite) fabricate a proper temporary cord untill you can get a proper setup.


what i am about to say i have said so many times, im just going to quote myself as im getting tired of repeating myself:

in all seriousness, its never about guessing! electricity is all about math, because math deals in absolutes. when dealing with electricity, dont guess. either know before you start or consult a pro. a little research can go a long way and save you thousands in the long run. a 1000w fixture does not pull 10 amps, for instance. if it did, id be worried about that ballast catching on fire.
this thread is the reason I donate my time here. call it community service for karma.

look, and listen, ok?

any HID lamp requires a ballast. the ballasts power factor will tell you what wattage it pulls in addition to the lamp. thats right, a ballast also consumes electrical energy. you multiply the power factor by the lamp wattage to get the maximum input power. sometimes the ballast manufacturer is nice and on the nameplate rating of theballast they will put the maximum input power. this is what the ballast lamp combo consumes. sometimes it is in amps,and sometimes it is in watts. sometimes its not there at all, and all there is is an efficincy rating/power factor.

for examples sake, lets pretend the maximum input power of your light fixture is 1075 watts.

1075w @ 120vac = 8.96 amps
8.96 amps @ 120vac x 120% (continuous duty cycle demand factor) = 10.76 amps.
1075w @ 240vac = 4.48 amps
4.48 amps @ 240vac x 120% (continuous duty cycle demand factor) = 5.38 amps

note how the wattage never changes in relation to the voltage, but the amperage is inversely proportionate to the voltage. the higher the voltage, the lower the amperage. the lower the voltage, the higher the amperage.......

and for prudence sake, that equation ive listed above applies to all parts of an electrical circuit, from start to finish. all cords, all fixture wires, voltages, ampacities, all cord ends and receptacles, breakers, etc, etc. its universal.
 
You seem to know what your talking about, but if your extension cord is 10AWG THHN-2 90 degree, then you will be fine for a continuous load of 20A, then you are more than fine as 10 gauge wire is rated for an ampacitiy of 30A.

if you were to max out completely a 20a breaker @ 2400w X 125% X 125% your just cutting over your 30a rating. Unless its an old cord them then you will be ok.

I have never heard of such thing as a cord not being rated for continuous load, this seems odd to me as Wire is Wire. The only thing I could see not handling is the plastic sheathing.


than your a sloppy electrician, no offense.
see this? its exactly 14:L x 6"H and cool to the touch.
0319002129.jpg
switches 1400w, 3 ballasts, 3 voltages, 2 cabs, 6 fans, temp overrides, room heat and a/c and many other nifty features. not a cord, powerstrip, or rigged cord end in the mix... every conductor is sized 140% minimum. and its still shitty work.

and whoever said residential structures often have the lights on a different circuit than the outlet in the same room apparently has never wired a house to begin with.... because in my more than 15 years in the trade I have never run a lighting circuit for bedroom lights.... there always fed off of the homerun outlet for the circuit in the room, which is in turn fed from a single arc fault breaker.... and thats code...

dont run HID fixtures off of cords... ever
. the reason being that cords are not rated for continuous duty inductive loads, which is exaclty what an HID lamp used for a grow op is! If you have no other option than cords, go CFL, or have an experienced, electrician (not your bro thats working his forst summer with his dad on a jobsite) fabricate a proper temporary cord untill you can get a proper setup.


what i am about to say i have said so many times, im just going to quote myself as im getting tired of repeating myself:



and for prudence sake, that equation ive listed above applies to all parts of an electrical circuit, from start to finish. all cords, all fixture wires, voltages, ampacities, all cord ends and receptacles, breakers, etc, etc. its universal.
 
its the blades on the cord end, not the cord itself, vs the receptacle its plugged into.... unless its a NEMA/SPEC grade receptacle its a fire hazard.
and the insulation type of cords varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
ambeint temps play a major role in insulation rating.
hysteresis gnerated heat on the cord cannot dissapate if the ambient temp is too high...
an ambeint temp can be greatly affected by a strong light source.
just because the air in the room is a certain temp, doesnt mean everything in the room is the same temp as the air.
so the cord gets warm, and the heat cant dissapate because your ambeint temp is high, say 78-82deg f. this is compunded by the intense light from the HID lamp. this light strikes the cord where it is visible and contributes greatly to more heat generation. over time, the insulation becomes brittle, untill one day a short circuit condition occurs after the cord insulation has sufficiently deterioted.

next time your in a big building/ warehouse that has HID lamps in it, look up.... if there cord fed its going to be with either armored cable with thwn-2 wire in it, or its going to be SO or SJ cable, which has a very high resistance to heat....

sorry for poor spelling, ive gotten to the point where i dont care about it :p

edit for clarity-
about cords and heat-
the danger is actually not from overloading the cord.... though overloading is a major, major concern, an overloaded cord becomes apparent pretty rapidly, you can smell it long befor eyou will see it.
the danger is from something that is close to being overloaded, i.e., maxed out... like running 1full rated ampacity of the cord.
ampacity is determined by the ambeint temps vs the voltage and power requirements of the device.
with a maxed out cord, the danger is from thermal expansion and contraction... the insulation on the cord expands as it heats up, then contracts later on when the lights turn off. its this continula expansion and contraction that degrades the insulation, being compounded by both additional heat and high levels of UV radiation from the HID lamps. UV makes thermoplastic get extremely brittle..... so running an hid lamp off of a cord is really a risky gamble, because its simply a matter if time untill you have a component failure. cords were never intended to run loads like that (an hid lamp)


this is why it takes 5 years of school and over 10,000 hours listed verifiable field exp befor eyou can even call yourself an electrician. theres alot to know.
 
Excellent and safe idea. Many housing electrical circuits have separate breakers for lights.

and whoever said residential structures often have the lights on a different circuit than the outlet in the same room apparently has never wired a house to begin with.... because in my more than 15 years in the trade I have never run a lighting circuit for bedroom lights.... there always fed off of the homerun outlet for the circuit in the room, which is in turn fed from a single arc fault breaker.... and thats code...


Dude, I lived in Alaska for 35 years and often seen this. Reason being that every room has a fan/light combo with high wattage bulbs. Also people run space heaters, so there are more runs. As a result, the lights and outlets sometimes get segregated. You havn't seen it , I have. Let's just leave it at that. I said it was a good idea because if the dude has a separate light circuit, than he has a separate light circuit. Wire a box to it. Safe and solves the problem.

Edit: I'm sure your right that it is code but codes evolve and have not been in place forever. They also get supplemented and amended.
 
I know that why I have my licence, (electrical and solar engineer here)

its the blades on the cord end, not the cord itself, vs the receptacle its plugged into.... unless its a NEMA/SPEC grade receptacle its a fire hazard.
and the insulation type of cords varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
ambeint temps play a major role in insulation rating.
hysteresis gnerated heat on the cord cannot dissapate if the ambient temp is too high...
an ambeint temp can be greatly affected by a strong light source.
just because the air in the room is a certain temp, doesnt mean everything in the room is the same temp as the air.
so the cord gets warm, and the heat cant dissapate because your ambeint temp is high, say 78-82deg f. this is compunded by the intense light from the HID lamp. this light strikes the cord where it is visible and contributes greatly to more heat generation. over time, the insulation becomes brittle, untill one day a short circuit condition occurs after the cord insulation has sufficiently deterioted.

next time your in a big building/ warehouse that has HID lamps in it, look up.... if there cord fed its going to be with either armored cable with thwn-2 wire in it, or its going to be SO or SJ cable, which has a very high resistance to heat....

sorry for poor spelling, ive gotten to the point where i dont care about it :p

edit for clarity-
about cords and heat-
the danger is actually not from overloading the cord.... though overloading is a major, major concern, an overloaded cord becomes apparent pretty rapidly, you can smell it long befor eyou will see it.
the danger is from something that is close to being overloaded, i.e., maxed out... like running 1full rated ampacity of the cord.
ampacity is determined by the ambeint temps vs the voltage and power requirements of the device.
with a maxed out cord, the danger is from thermal expansion and contraction... the insulation on the cord expands as it heats up, then contracts later on when the lights turn off. its this continula expansion and contraction that degrades the insulation, being compounded by both additional heat and high levels of UV radiation from the HID lamps. UV makes thermoplastic get extremely brittle..... so running an hid lamp off of a cord is really a risky gamble, because its simply a matter if time untill you have a component failure. cords were never intended to run loads like that (an hid lamp)


this is why it takes 5 years of school and over 10,000 hours listed verifiable field exp befor eyou can even call yourself an electrician. theres alot to know.
 
you didnt mention that u were in alaska :p
alaska has different power requirements than most of the world... for exactly the reason you stated.
but if i was in alaska, i would use the outlet for the space heater.
space heaters pull 1500w, no less....... in other words the outlet is already rated for a heavy load.
because if you trip your lighting circuit, you just put your house in darkness, and thats a pain in the ass, especially if your tinkering around in a lightproof growroom :lol:

thanks for the correction though, i learn something new everyday
 
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