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Icemud

Well-Known Member

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woodsmantoker

Well-Known Member
Icemud, you might try picking up some sand at a craft store or Walmart? etc. By making a layer over the top of your soil half an inch deep or so, and keeping your soil covered this way, you may be able to get rid of the sticky traps by creating a inhabitable environment for surface area egg layers/larva dwellers.

What are your thoughts on your V-screen? Would you do it again, or would you opt for a flat run?

One issue that folks run into if the set up is not designed accordingly, is that once the growth on the sides reach full length in flower, the colas then prevent the light from being lowered down to meet the growth on the flat surface at the bottom of the V - U Screen. What you see then, is a large portion of the plant stretched as a result of light being high enough to avoid burning of the side wall colas, but too high to avoid the stretch elsewhere. Further, the colas on the sides end up being closer to the light and grow larger, complicating the issue.

If you could elaborate a bit on your experience, it may greatly help others who are considering the same or similar option.

Thanks for sharing brother, keep us posted.

Woodsmantoker~
 

woodsmantoker

Well-Known Member
Oriah, Can you get an image up of the entire set up? Looks like a rubber maid tote under the screen there... Curious and could be of help in determining your issues with filling the screen. Some more details about the cycle and what all has transpired over the last few weeks etc. also could be of great importance.

Granted I could be overlooking something, nothing stands out.

Woodsmantoker~
 

woodsmantoker

Well-Known Member
Pound Town, I try to avoid plant issue diagnosis here, and keep it scrog. However, from time to time I simply help my fellow "trellising cultivator" in anyway I can.

I would suspect nitrogen deficiency as your yellowing issue. This would likely be the reason growth nearly ceased at some point. Nitrogen is responsible for the production of amino acids as well as chlorophyll and is essential to photosynthesis. This can occur for several different reasons and it would take learning more about your soils make up and its treatment over the course of the time the plants have been in it, in order to better understand why. I would suggest doing a bit of research into the matter and consider your options. Good Luck.

Woodsmantoker~
 

Jay_normous

Well-Known Member
A few different strains.. Not so sure about my side action now.. although a plant is missing..:bigjoint:

View attachment 1913700

Its kindda hard to get a decent picture of my grow as its all compact and has a smaller entry door than you might think which makes for under canopy cleaning and maintenance a bit of an effort but hopefully in a couple of weeks will be all worth it...

Im thinking these have 3 weeks left..???
 

Icemud

Well-Known Member
Icemud, you might try picking up some sand at a craft store or Walmart? etc. By making a layer over the top of your soil half an inch deep or so, and keeping your soil covered this way, you may be able to get rid of the sticky traps by creating a inhabitable environment for surface area egg layers/larva dwellers.

What are your thoughts on your V-screen? Would you do it again, or would you opt for a flat run?

One issue that folks run into if the set up is not designed accordingly, is that once the growth on the sides reach full length in flower, the colas then prevent the light from being lowered down to meet the growth on the flat surface at the bottom of the V - U Screen. What you see then, is a large portion of the plant stretched as a result of light being high enough to avoid burning of the side wall colas, but too high to avoid the stretch elsewhere. Further, the colas on the sides end up being closer to the light and grow larger, complicating the issue.

If you could elaborate a bit on your experience, it may greatly help others who are considering the same or similar option.

Thanks for sharing brother, keep us posted.

Woodsmantoker~

Hey Woodsmantoker...thanks for your advice, comment..etc...much appreciation...

As far as the fungus gnat issue, they are under control for the most part, I have been using the yellow sticky's to catch and kill of the adults and they work really well, as well as using BTi and an organic/natural pest spray made up of (neem, water, peppermint tea, habenero hot sauce and 2 cigarettes) and seems to keep them at bay, I think next run I will be getting some womans nylon's to stretch over the top of the plants containers to keep out the pesties, but for now the attack on fungus gnats has been working...last run I got them as well...Im starting to think its the Happy Frog soil, but may be from outside as well... I used azatrol last round and it worked great, this time I think I am going to lay off unless it is really necessary...

As far as the V-scrog vs a flat one...I have both pro's and con's about it..... A flat scrog would offer much better secondary lateral growths because of gravotropism as well as phototropism and I find without LST pre screen, its hard to get the sides to fill out and promote side branching. I think for this the flat scrog would be better...
On the plus side, the V-scrog allows me to get my lights closer to the outside edges of the tent vs a flat screen which will let less lumens/intensity hit the outer edges due to the square inverse law. The best way to visualize for me was to imagine a string tied to the corner of each light....about 18" long... if you were to swing the string on back and forth 180 degrees...it would make a semi- circle, very similar to the pattern of the V-Scrog I assembled... (now your probably thinking this pulls the center of the screen further away??) Yes the center of the screen recieves less intense light due to the square inverse law, however, since it also sits in the Sweet Spot of BOTH lights, it is actually recieving about the same amount of light as the sides, due to it getting the sweet spot from both lights.... The OTHER plus to this, is with dual lights, it allows me to get better foliar penetration than a single overhead light because the light is comming off 2 main points instead of one, both angled slightly above and to the side of the plant...Less shading of the underfoliage this way..


I very much agree with you about the sides/cola's being too high on the sides of the grow, thus raising the lights accordingly and lowering the intensity of the middle... I solved this issue on my last grow by making a 2-layer scrog....basicly around day 40 of flowering...I supercrop all tall cola's so they lean over towards the middle of the tent... By hanging another screen just below my lights (above the plants) I am able to (hang like puppets) the supercropped cola's so that they create a alsmost 3D scrog. By supercropping the cola's, not only are you bringing the light closer, but you are also forcing those auxins to the lower nodes and increasing the size of the secondary cola's by more than 2x....as well as allowing more light to reach the surface of the supercropped cola's.

As for future grows, with the current setup I have this is the style I believe works the best, but If I ever upgrade to a larger growing area (full room) I would actually Flat Scrog each individual plant...each with its own light above it...

Here are a few photo's of my last grow...check how I installed the screen above for adjustable support to the heavy cola's....you could call it Icemuds Puppet Show...lol

View attachment 1914048View attachment 1914050View attachment 1914051View attachment 1914052View attachment 1914053View attachment 1914054
 

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Hasek10

Member
Anyone have any ideas if this would work i was thinking river rock baskets start the 45 degree baskets in another area until they reach to the screen then transfer. Using all aero-ponics set-up, Custom built LED grow light (410 - 1W 660nm, 40 - 1W 440NM, 20 - 1W 3100K, 20 - 1W 600K) Covers all 4 boards as close to even as possible all 4 boards are separate and can be moved and swung on timers or just by hand. Water is cooled to any specific temperature before sprayed onto root system all PH's are monitored closely and when a harsh balance is found tank is switched to pure water until issue is resolved, still working on an ON OFF scheduled for watering any help would be appreciated!

Very handy and love to do my own work from scratch may take a little longer but you know its right and exactly how to fix it. Minored in Welding, Building construction, Energy auditing, Electrical and a little plumbing and heating.

So any home made stuff might be cool too thanks!
 

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Hasek10

Member
Unfortunately nothing is set up at the moment working a good place to set up this all merely hypothetical at them moment just seeing if was at all possible, but this set up would really maximize the one planet per square foot, and training would be a little easier then 2 bends to the main stem
 

caveman420

Well-Known Member
:leaf:View attachment 1918239View attachment 1918240View attachment 1918241:leaf:
:peace::peace: whut up,so the screen is filling up:eyesmoke: this is first scrog im doin a jack la mota 75% sativa from med seeds, that being said was tryna figure out when should i throw her into flower, and continue scrogging the strecth? i have 300hps, how tall should the canopy be into transition? and thank you all:peace::peace:
 

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NoSwag

Active Member
:leaf:View attachment 1918239View attachment 1918240View attachment 1918241:leaf:
:peace::peace: whut up,so the screen is filling up:eyesmoke: this is first scrog im doin a jack la mota 75% sativa from med seeds, that being said was tryna figure out when should i throw her into flower, and continue scrogging the strecth? i have 300hps, how tall should the canopy be into transition? and thank you all:peace::peace:
I'm still a scrog newbie as well, but from what I know, depending on your strain your plant will continue to stretch up to 3 weeks into flowering. So taking into account your suppose continue scrogging until the screen is full and have actual buds. and how high is your canopy at the moment? its already looks like you started to scrog how could you re-adjust it?
 
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