Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
Mrlyjammn420 said:
your using 3 600ws and i was wondering if your set up could still handle an extra 600w because i am going to be using 4 and i am very interested in your set up because its very clean and looks pretty simple to do. (prolly not though) I would really like to know details of what you did if you didnt mind:confused::mrgreen:
Click to expand...
No it won't do 4 as configured.

The box on the left (the timer) is fed by a 20amp 1-pole breaker. The timer feeds the 2 receptacles underneath it. The 3 receptacles on the right are fed by another 20amp breaker. All the wire is 12/2 romex, which is good for 25 amps, and all the receptacles are 20a/125v.

Each 600w uses 5 amps to run and a little more to start. 5x4=20 plus a little more, so no go. But don't despair. You see the wire going from the panel to the timer? Replace the 20amp with a 30a, replace that wire with a piece of 10/2 romex, then run another 12/2 from the timer to one more receptacle. Then u will be good for 2 more 600w lights. As I said in a post earlier, the timer is rated to 40amps, so its good for 7 600w. The receptacles on the right you won't have mess with. 20amps should be plenty for the additional equipment associated with a 2400w grow room. Everything is mounted on a 3/4" plywood backboard, which u can buy precut at home depot. In my next post, I will give you a material list. All of this can be purchased at home depot. all but the plywood can be had at a supply house.
 
bricktown73

bricktown73

Well-Known Member
I have had a ton of question that go like this:

I have this ballast that draws (x) amount of watts, I also have an a/c that draws (x) amount of watts, and I have 2 fans that draw (x) amount of watts...

Here is a simple equation that I use every day that can answer many of your questions.

Watts / volts = amps Here is an example

I have (4) 600 watt ballast, a 1200w a/c unit, and 2 fans that pull 300watts.
total watts= 3900watts
house voltage=120volts

So, 3900watts / 120volts = 33 amps.

Now, you can run (2) 20 amp lines to run this equiptment, and you are also right around the safty rule of thumb of only running 80% of your breaker size. 80% of 40 amps is 32 amps but this is a trade rule of thumb and you guys will be fine.

So, If you guys want to know if your 15 amp bedroom circuit can handle what you want to run, add up all your equiptment wattage and use this equation. Goodluck.
 
Syriuslydelyrius

Syriuslydelyrius

Well-Known Member
bricktown73 said:
I have had a ton of question that go like this:

I have this ballast that draws (x) amount of watts, I also have an a/c that draws (x) amount of watts, and I have 2 fans that draw (x) amount of watts...

Here is a simple equation that I use every day that can answer many of your questions.

Watts / volts = amps Here is an example

I have (4) 600 watt ballast, a 1200w a/c unit, and 2 fans that pull 300watts.
total watts= 3900watts
house voltage=120volts

So, 3900watts / 120volts = 33 amps.

Now, you can run (2) 20 amp lines to run this equiptment, and you are also right around the safty rule of thumb of only running 80% of your breaker size. 80% of 40 amps is 32 amps but this is a trade rule of thumb and you guys will be fine.

So, If you guys want to know if your 15 amp bedroom circuit can handle what you want to run, add up all your equiptment wattage and use this equation. Goodluck.
Click to expand...
This is indeed good info for the novice. However this guy knew that his 15amp circuit was not going to be enough and was looking for a solution. Further more he was looking for a solution that didn't require running new wire.

If your going to run multiple HID lamps allong with all the load of ventilation fans, water pumps or whatever else that your room use a big amount of juice then the best safest nicest way would be to run a 220 line there and build a high amp relay to controll the all the lamps with 1 timer.

Another solution would be to run 120 wires from seperate circuit breakers to the room then put one lamp and its own seperate timer on each of these differant breakers. This still means your going to have to run wires though and this option will limit you for adding future lights. Where as if you ran a 220 line and built a relay and you could later add lighting without having to buy a new timer for each light and run a new 120v circuit and breaker for each lamp added.

I linked a nice link about building a relay a few posts above this one. Check that out bricktown and maybe you can simplify and explain it easier for the guy. I am not a electrician by trade, my background is electronic engineering but the math is the same. I just have trouble explaining it, I had no problem following there circuit and even changing it to allow me to use my 120v lamps. I just seem to fall short trying to explain it to folks so maybe bricktown can shed some light on it all for you folks.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
ok, mrly, here is a material list for my electrical station...

1 100amp Square D QO Indoor panel with added ground bar (use whatever panel make you like, rated to at least 50amps)

1 Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer

2 20amp single pole breakers (you will want 1 20a and 1 30a)

12ft. 12/2 romex cable (you will also want 3ft. 10/2 romex)

16 1/2" romex connectors

6 handy boxes

6 20a/125v duplex receptacles (recommend 3 be GFI)

receptacle covers

2'x2'x3/4" plywood

screws to anchor it all and 1/2" staples for the romex

I think thats everything
 
B

by1969

Well-Known Member
Syriuslydelyrius said:
This is indeed good info for the novice. However this guy knew that his 15amp circuit was not going to be enough and was looking for a solution. Further more he was looking for a solution that didn't require running new wire.

If your going to run multiple HID lamps allong with all the load of ventilation fans, water pumps or whatever else that your room use a big amount of juice then the best safest nicest way would be to run a 220 line there and build a high amp relay to controll the all the lamps with 1 timer.

Another solution would be to run 120 wires from seperate circuit breakers to the room then put one lamp and its own seperate timer on each of these differant breakers. This still means your going to have to run wires though and this option will limit you for adding future lights. Where as if you ran a 220 line and built a relay and you could later add lighting without having to buy a new timer for each light and run a new 120v circuit and breaker for each lamp added.

I linked a nice link about building a relay a few posts above this one. Check that out bricktown and maybe you can simplify and explain it easier for the guy. I am not a electrician by trade, my background is electronic engineering but the math is the same. I just have trouble explaining it, I had no problem following there circuit and even changing it to allow me to use my 120v lamps. I just seem to fall short trying to explain it to folks so maybe bricktown can shed some light on it all for you folks.
Click to expand...
I want everything to be safe and up to code. It sounds like this may be a bit out of my league. If I understand correctly, installing a subpanel sounds like a good option. However, this requires an electrician and an inspection. The main box is about 50 feet from the bedroom. I don't want it to seem suspicious to the electrician. It may seem odd to him that I want to add 40 more amps to a single bedroom.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
it will seem odd, and i can tell you, when my crew and i are in a home, we wonder and talk about the things that seem wierd or out of place. but u can do it yourself...its not as compicated as it seems...b4 u give up, go to boarders and look for a good book, and see if you can follow the instructions.
 
Syriuslydelyrius

Syriuslydelyrius

Well-Known Member
by1969 said:
I want everything to be safe and up to code. It sounds like this may be a bit out of my league. If I understand correctly, installing a subpanel sounds like a good option. However, this requires an electrician and an inspection. The main box is about 50 feet from the bedroom. I don't want it to seem suspicious to the electrician. It may seem odd to him that I want to add 40 more amps to a single bedroom.
Click to expand...
I am certian that anyone with atleast some electrical knowledge should be able to follow the instructions on the following web page to build there own relay. http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

That relay though is set up for 220 lights so you would have to split that up inside the relay box so that you can use your 120v lights. (the one on the webpage has multiple 220v sockets attached to the relay box for 220v lamps and will have to be modified for 120v lamps/sockets) So it will require a bit of wireing knowledge.

Basicly what that circuit is and how its set up to work is the following. You add a large 220 breaker to your box this 220 wire is then ran over to your room and terminates inside your relay box. You plug your timer into a normal 120v socket and plug the 120v wire from your relay box into the timer. When the timer turns on it will switch the relay and this will then power up your light sockets built into the relay and they will be receving there power feed from that big 220 breaker and line to handle the high amp load.

This is safe and up to code by all means and if you knowledge/skills require you to hire an electrician to add that 220v breaker and line there are plenty of excuses you could use. Here are a few, "Install this 220v circuit for me in the bedroom for the new big AC unit I am buying" or "were turning this into a craft room for my wife and she needs a 220v outlet for her kiln for her pottery hobbey" If your looking for an excuse to have someone build the entire set up including the relay I am sure with some thought you could figure some sort of BS to tell the electrician but honestly that circuit is not very complicated.
 
FullMetal22

FullMetal22

Member
Hello, awesome thread idea! veyr cool man
So my issue is i am making a pc box, and i want to use the old fans it had already in it (2003 fans Dell)
I even bought a new power supply that has easy plug-n-go wires. I was told it would work for all my fans.... But the ones that came stock with Dell computer, the plugs are such to small!! It wont directly plug into ANY of the 5-6 plugs my power supply has. I have newer fans comign n the mail, should i wait for them and hope they plug in, or is their any way i can get some help to figuring this all out?
here is my link, for pictures, thx!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/192410-pc-grow-box-wiring-issue.html#post2480716
 
Syriuslydelyrius

Syriuslydelyrius

Well-Known Member
Syriuslydelyrius said:
I am certian that anyone with atleast some electrical knowledge should be able to follow the instructions on the following web page to build there own relay. http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

That relay though is set up for 220 lights so you would have to split that up inside the relay box so that you can use your 120v lights. (the one on the webpage has multiple 220v sockets attached to the relay box for 220v lamps and will have to be modified for 120v lamps/sockets) So it will require a bit of wireing knowledge.

Basicly what that circuit is and how its set up to work is the following. You add a large 220 breaker to your box this 220 wire is then ran over to your room and terminates inside your relay box. You plug your timer into a normal 120v socket and plug the 120v wire from your relay box into the timer. When the timer turns on it will switch the relay and this will then power up your light sockets built into the relay and they will be receving there power feed from that big 220 breaker and line to handle the high amp load.

This is safe and up to code by all means and if you knowledge/skills require you to hire an electrician to add that 220v breaker and line there are plenty of excuses you could use. Here are a few, "Install this 220v circuit for me in the bedroom for the new big AC unit I am buying" or "were turning this into a craft room for my wife and she needs a 220v outlet for her kiln for her pottery hobbey" If your looking for an excuse to have someone build the entire set up including the relay I am sure with some thought you could figure some sort of BS to tell the electrician but honestly that circuit is not very complicated.
Click to expand...

Here is where I would like to have an electrician look at that circuit to explain how to change it for 120v lights instead of 220v ones. This webpage http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp shows a 220v 3 prong cord comeing out of the relay box. YOU CANT DO IT THAT WAY for a 120v system, instead you will need a 4 wire 220v line entering the relay box converting a 3 wire 220v circuit to a 120v one is a bad thing. I am not an electrician so I really cant explain it more than that.

So if one of you electricians can take a moment to lay it out for him and show how to modify it for 120v lamps it would come in handy for many people.
 
Mrlyjammn420

Mrlyjammn420

Active Member
Captn said:
ok, mrly, here is a material list for my electrical station...

1 100amp Square D QO Indoor panel with added ground bar (use whatever panel make you like, rated to at least 50amps)

1 Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer

2 20amp single pole breakers (you will want 1 20a and 1 30a)

12ft. 12/2 romex cable (you will also want 3ft. 10/2 romex)

16 1/2" romex connectors

6 handy boxes

6 20a/125v duplex receptacles (recommend 3 be GFI)

receptacle covers

2'x2'x3/4" plywood

screws to anchor it all and 1/2" staples for the romex

I think thats everything
Click to expand...
Your awesome! thank you so muchkiss-ass
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
Mrlyjammn420 said:
Your awesome! thank you so muchkiss-ass
Click to expand...
no prob...don't forget to get the breaker and wire for the sub panel feed. a 60a breaker with 6/3 romex or #4 SER would be good...and make sure the panel u get is rated to at least the amps of the breaker you get
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
clamp connector for nm cable...or just tell the guy in the electrical department that you're running romex into a panel and what connector do you use...as for the timer, I dont see a rating anywhere, but it looks pretty light, you want something rated to at least 25 amps, this is the timer I got

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=29405-251-T101RD89&lpage=none

and the same one at home depot $15 less

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100151619&N=10000003+90401+502289
 
B

by1969

Well-Known Member
Syriuslydelyrius said:
I am certian that anyone with atleast some electrical knowledge should be able to follow the instructions on the following web page to build there own relay. http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.asp

That relay though is set up for 220 lights so you would have to split that up inside the relay box so that you can use your 120v lights. (the one on the webpage has multiple 220v sockets attached to the relay box for 220v lamps and will have to be modified for 120v lamps/sockets) So it will require a bit of wireing knowledge.

Basicly what that circuit is and how its set up to work is the following. You add a large 220 breaker to your box this 220 wire is then ran over to your room and terminates inside your relay box. You plug your timer into a normal 120v socket and plug the 120v wire from your relay box into the timer. When the timer turns on it will switch the relay and this will then power up your light sockets built into the relay and they will be receving there power feed from that big 220 breaker and line to handle the high amp load.

This is safe and up to code by all means and if you knowledge/skills require you to hire an electrician to add that 220v breaker and line there are plenty of excuses you could use. Here are a few, "Install this 220v circuit for me in the bedroom for the new big AC unit I am buying" or "were turning this into a craft room for my wife and she needs a 220v outlet for her kiln for her pottery hobbey" If your looking for an excuse to have someone build the entire set up including the relay I am sure with some thought you could figure some sort of BS to tell the electrician but honestly that circuit is not very complicated.
Click to expand...
Will that be enough for 4-1000w lights and a few fans? But how do I add a 220 breaker if there are no vacant spaces on my box? Are you saying that I replace the existing line with a 220? And replace that 15amp switch with a 40 or something like that?
 
H

Hill0046

Active Member
Bricktown,
Thank you so much for doing this.
Here is my question.
I need a 240 outlet for a ballast.
I have an abandoned A/C breaker in my panel that is a double 40 amp that I assume is 240. If I understand correctly I need to put one hot wire on one lug, the other hot on the other lug and ground to the buss. Is this correct and thanks for the help.
Hill
 

Attachments

Syriuslydelyrius

Syriuslydelyrius

Well-Known Member
by1969 said:
Will that be enough for 4-1000w lights and a few fans? But how do I add a 220 breaker if there are no vacant spaces on my box? Are you saying that I replace the existing line with a 220? And replace that 15amp switch with a 40 or something like that?
Click to expand...
If you have the right Amprage breaker/relay and the proper 220 line it will handle the current your gear is useing then your fine. So you would need a 220 breaker at 30a or whatever amperage your gear is useing. You will want to leave the existing 120v line in there to run your timer and other 120v accesories the timer will activate your relay which will supply your lights with the high current breaker and 220 line.

bricktown73 said:
Here is a simple equation that I use every day that can answer many of your questions.

Watts / volts = amps Here is an example

I have (4) 600 watt ballast, a 1200w a/c unit, and 2 fans that pull 300watts.
total watts= 3900watts
house voltage=120volts

So, 3900watts / 120volts = 33 amps.
Click to expand...

The problem with that circuit on the website is that it is for 220v lamps, When I built mine I changed it over to run my 120v lamps. What I did was run my 4 wire 220 line into my relay box and split it into 120 circuits for my lamp. I had a electrician buddy who had to explain it to me at the time so it would be up to code but it was long ago so my memory isnt the best.

I was just wishing that bricktown or one of these other electricians would look at that circuit and draw the schematic for it so everyone could use it.
 
bdomina

bdomina

Active Member
hello,

do you know anything about rewiring a tstat in a window ac unit? it sits outside my cab and i have the cool air ducted in. also i pulled the tstat copper node down into the top cab compartment. but it still has large temp swings and i would like it a little more dialed in. I thought about trying to wire a regular tstat like for your house but those are low voltage. although the baseboard heater tstats take 120 in i know. would you know anything about either rewiring these or could you splice a heavy guage ext cord into a bboard tstat?
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
by1969 said:
Will that be enough for 4-1000w lights and a few fans? But how do I add a 220 breaker if there are no vacant spaces on my box? Are you saying that I replace the existing line with a 220? And replace that 15amp switch with a 40 or something like that?
Click to expand...
There is something called a tandem breaker...tandem breakers are 120v breakers that power 2 circuits in the space normally occupied by 2 breakers...so you get 2 tandems, put 4 120v circuits on them then you will have 2 empty 120v breakers...remove those and put a 240v breaker in their place...IMPORTANT, b4 you do this u need to open your panel and let me know if there are any red wires in there...red wires often mean two 120v circuits are sharing the same neutral, which can be problematic when using tandems...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top