Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

ian9892 said:

yes thats what i was thinking. thanks alot!

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I wanted to add that I myself found it easier to use a book to get a general idea of what I wanted to do, then use rollitup to work out the specifics. I recommend Marijuana horticulture by Jorge Cervantes. Course, I'ma noob myself, I'm building my first grow room this weekend, wish me luck.

thanks brick, you are a great help

here is my question. i have a 100x60foot warehouse with 480/240/120 volt. i got two rooms with 25 lights in each (1000w). Im using these Koyo Timer Relays (KT Series) to control my lighting with Relay; SSR; Zero-Switching; Cur-Rtg 25A or similar. Is it possible to take the supply wire from the 25 balasts (going to lights) and run it back into the electric pannel to relays? using the relays, switch the supply from the ballasts from room 1 to room 2 and vice versa on a 12 hour rotation? (25 ballasts-50 lights). I will be using delay timers to control the power supply going to the ballasts(no power when relays switch).

I would like to know how to do a set-up similar to the original posters, I have 5 1000hps, 2 inline fans, a/c, timers, oscilating fans. How do I make that initial set up from the thread starter in his first post?

New to this forum, glad to have found this thread. Very useful. I have a couple questions...

So in my breaker box for my house, there is a 15amp servicing two bedrooms and a 20 amp that happens to be servicing two unused outside plugs. My questions is, I know you can't go increasing the total amperage, but can't I switch the 15 and the 20 so that the bedroom outlets are serviced by the 20amp and the 15 amp then gets used for the outdoor plugs?

I don't see anything wrong with this.... just wanted to run it by someone.

Cheers
~TS

Captn said:

What your're describing is dangerous because the circuit will be able to carry more than the receptacle...if you make a mistake in estimating the load you're putting on the circuit, a fire could result...not cool. Instead, why don't you just install a 20a/125v receptacle? They only cost a little more, and you will have another 5amps you can draw should the need arise. They're available at Home Depot and Lowes, though you may have to look carefully, or ask a clerk.

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I wasn't sure if that was something I could get. Thanks alot for the info Captn. By the way, I haven't used the outlet yet besides testing it with a fan so no worries. + rep for helping out.

I just wanted to say to everyone that is receiving help in this thread, or any other thread on RIU. Please make sure that you don't just thank the person that helped you in a post, make sure you give them some rep too. If you don't know how or what it is just ask about that too. It's nice to know you're appreciated.

humble learner said:

I would like to know how to do a set-up similar to the original posters, I have 5 1000hps, 2 inline fans, a/c, timers, oscilating fans. How do I make that initial set up from the thread starter in his first post?

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^^^^^^^^^^^^

ekoar said:

here is my question. i have a 100x60foot warehouse with 480/240/120 volt. i got two rooms with 25 lights in each (1000w). Im using these Koyo Timer Relays (KT Series) to control my lighting with Relay; SSR; Zero-Switching; Cur-Rtg 25A or similar. Is it possible to take the supply wire from the 25 balasts (going to lights) and run it back into the electric pannel to relays? using the relays, switch the supply from the ballasts from room 1 to room 2 and vice versa on a 12 hour rotation? (25 ballasts-50 lights). I will be using delay timers to control the power supply going to the ballasts(no power when relays switch).

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Holy shit!!

ekoar said:

here is my question. i have a 100x60foot warehouse with 480/240/120 volt. i got two rooms with 25 lights in each (1000w). Im using these Koyo Timer Relays (KT Series) to control my lighting with Relay; SSR; Zero-Switching; Cur-Rtg 25A or similar. Is it possible to take the supply wire from the 25 balasts (going to lights) and run it back into the electric pannel to relays? using the relays, switch the supply from the ballasts from room 1 to room 2 and vice versa on a 12 hour rotation? (25 ballasts-50 lights). I will be using delay timers to control the power supply going to the ballasts(no power when relays switch).

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Ya, this was suggested in one of the books I've read as a way to save money...the only think to watch out for is voltage drop. Make sure your line is under 150 ft, or increase the size of the conductor. BTW, just my opinion, but I wouldn't post on this site about a large scale commercial operation, I hope you've covered your tracks very well.

How you doing BT73....Looking to purchase a bulb for my 400 w.MH...Found this site http://www.1000bulbs.com/GE-Philips-Sylvania-EYE-TCP-400-Watt-Metal-Halide-Lamps/.... Can I use any 400w. MH bulb with my Ballast....I know that some R 2 be mounted "Horizontal, Universal, Vertical" but other than that can I use any 1 ?....8"-12" any difference other than length?....Frosted, unfrosted?.....If U get a chance to view the site- wich 1 would you recomend.........Lastly (K) is a measurement of energy(heat) dispursed by bulb "Kelvins"..right,wrong?............RESPECT............

PEACE,BLESSINGS,PROSPERITY.

humble learner said:

I would like to know how to do a set-up similar to the original posters, I have 5 1000hps, 2 inline fans, a/c, timers, oscilating fans. How do I make that initial set up from the thread starter in his first post?

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this website is becoming increasingly useless to me..

humble learner said:

I would like to know how to do a set-up similar to the original posters, I have 5 1000hps, 2 inline fans, a/c, timers, oscilating fans. How do I make that initial set up from the thread starter in his first post?

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The best person to tell you how to do this would be brick, the original poster. He obviously hasn't been on since you posted...just be patient, and nice, and I'm sure he will help you. I would tell you how I would do it, but u specifically referenced brick in your post, so I'll let him answer you.

Man this thread is the answer to my prayers - Thanks in advance.

I have a small industrial workshop that I just framed a Grow room in. From the panel it is about 65 feet to where I need to install the sub-panel. Here are my questions.

1. Is 6/3 NM the correct wire for the Sub-Panel?

2. How do I house the wire from the panel to the sub-panel. Walls in building are all drywalled.

a. Can I run exposed wire above certain height
b. Do I need plain wire that is not in insulated jacket and put this in conduit, if so what size/type conduit.

3. What type of panel do I buy for the Sub (is it main lug, etc...)

4. Am in California if the code is needed.

Lastly, I will be firing 4 1000W (240V), AC, Dehumidifier, and fans off of this. According to my calculations, this should be good to go.

Hope I covered all of the basics, and more importantly, hopefully you can give me the plan. Feel free to add as much details as possible

Brick here is my question for you: I have a shed with all the wiring and outlets. 2 20 AMP breakers and 3 15 AMP breakers none of them are working and I reset all breakers in the box. I also tested the outlets with a plug in outlet tester and no juice... what is my next step. Oh yeah while adding a timer I blew the outside outlet also. Tried resetting no dice.

26point2 said:

Man this thread is the answer to my prayers - Thanks in advance.

I have a small industrial workshop that I just framed a Grow room in. From the panel it is about 65 feet to where I need to install the sub-panel. Here are my questions.

1. Is 6/3 NM the correct wire for the Sub-Panel?

2. How do I house the wire from the panel to the sub-panel. Walls in building are all drywalled.

a. Can I run exposed wire above certain height
b. Do I need plain wire that is not in insulated jacket and put this in conduit, if so what size/type conduit.

3. What type of panel do I buy for the Sub (is it main lug, etc...)

4. Am in California if the code is needed.

Lastly, I will be firing 4 1000W (240V), AC, Dehumidifier, and fans off of this. According to my calculations, this should be good to go.

Hope I covered all of the basics, and more importantly, hopefully you can give me the plan. Feel free to add as much details as possible

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1. #6 copper (whether nm or single conductors in conduit) is good for 60amps. #4 is the equivilant size in aluminum.

2. Experiended electricians will cut small work box sized holes and use 6 ft drill bits to drill through studs/joists and conceal the wire behind the sheetrock, but this may be beyond you. If so, according to the NEC (National Electric Code, I can't speak to California codes, which often exceed NEC) you can run individual conductors in rigid conduit, such as pvc schedule 40. You can fit #6 in 1" conduit and #4 in 1 1/2" conduit.

3. Any make of panel rated to at least the size of the breaker feeding it. You can feed a 100a panel with a 60a breaker, but not vice versa. Since the will be a breeaker feeding from the service (main) panel, whether you want a disconnect in the subpanel is up to you. A main lug panel, which does NOT have a disconnect, is fine.

4. As for code, if you not going to get an inspection, there are safe variations you can make from the code. For example, the reason romex (nm) has to be run inside the wall is to protect it. But romex isn't fragile; unless you cut it with a knife, or whack it with an axe, or some such, it will be fine. So if you can ensure that kids won't mess with it or a dog won't chew on it, go ahead and run some 6/3 strapped to the wall. #4 SER will do as well, both are 3 conductors plus ground.

5. I dont know what size A/C you're using, but your lights will require 20amps, 10 or 15 for your other items, so a 30 or 40 amp breaker, PLUS what u need for the A/C.

Hope this helps, and good luck.

BTW, point, if you run single conductors in conduit, get THHN (copper) or XHHW or XHWN (aluminum)

Captn said:

BTW, point, if you run single conductors in conduit, get THHN (copper) or XHHW or XHWN (aluminum)

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Captn
Thanks so much for the help. I think I will go with the single conductors in conduit, so I have just a couple more questions.

1. What ground cable do I run with the #6 copper? Is it also measured in similar numbers, i.e. #6, and is is bare copper wire?

2. When the conduit reaches the new wood construction for the Grow Room, how to I run the wire to the new box through the studs? Can I run same conduit through the studs or do I have to do something else per code?

Thanks again!

26point2 said:

Captn
Thanks so much for the help. I think I will go with the single conductors in conduit, so I have just a couple more questions.

1. What ground cable do I run with the #6 copper? Is it also measured in similar numbers, i.e. #6, and is is bare copper wire?

2. When the conduit reaches the new wood construction for the Grow Room, how to I run the wire to the new box through the studs? Can I run same conduit through the studs or do I have to do something else per code?

Thanks again!

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I don't have my codebook at home, but a #8 ground will be more than enough, and a #10 will probably suffice. Typically, conduit is run on the surface of the wall. 1" can be run through studs, though it is a pain in the ass. 1 1/2" is really too big for that. The other choice is to mount a junction box somewhere, run the conduit into that, and change over to romex (nm) cable. All of these options comply with NEC.

26point2 said:

Captn
Thanks so much for the help. I think I will go with the single conductors in conduit, so I have just a couple more questions.

1. What ground cable do I run with the #6 copper? Is it also measured in similar numbers, i.e. #6, and is is bare copper wire?

2. When the conduit reaches the new wood construction for the Grow Room, how to I run the wire to the new box through the studs? Can I run same conduit through the studs or do I have to do something else per code?

Thanks again!

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The wire should be the same insulation as the conductors, i.e., THHN conductors=THHN ground.