Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

Captn
Thank you so much again - installing everything tomorrow and here are my final questions. I have these instruction for the wiring - do they sound correct to you. Its a bit long - sorry.

At the existing MAIN panel's new double pole breaker connect the outgoing red and black to breaker. Connect the white AND ground to the MAIN panel's neutral buss (NOTE you can only do this at the MAIN - at the sub-panel they MUST be kept seperated).

At the new SUB panel - you will connect the incoming red and black to the main buss connections (the 2 connections going to all the breaker slot busses if this panel does not have main breaker pre-installed. The incoming neutral white will connect to the SUB panels neutral buss (you must NOT use any green bonding screws or straps that may have come with this panel...there can be NO physical connection between the white neutrals and bare or green grounds in this SUB).

Connect the incoming power ground...as well as the ground wires from all the new circuits you add. (If your panel does not have such a bar then you will need to purchase an equipment ground bar seperately made to fit your panel...and it will mount directly to the metal back of the panel - you will see factory holes in the metal for this purpose.)

In this SUB - ALL whites will go to the neutral bar...and all grounds will go to the ground bar (unlike back at the MAIN panel where the two connect to the same bar)....they MUST be kept seperated at the SUB. This is a Code requirement.

That is correct...you've been given good advice.

AudiLove said:

Brick here is my question for you: I have a shed with all the wiring and outlets. 2 20 AMP breakers and 3 15 AMP breakers none of them are working and I reset all breakers in the box. I also tested the outlets with a plug in outlet tester and no juice... what is my next step. Oh yeah while adding a timer I blew the outside outlet also. Tried resetting no dice.

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I had a similar problem with one circuit I was running some pumps on. Turned out the plug I was using was in line with a GFI plug in a bathroom in a similar part of the house that my kid had shut off. If there are no GFIs in line that you can check you should get a voltage or continuity tester and start at the breaker or plug and work back the other way. If the breaker is getting power and the plug is not there there is a problem in between the two. Mainly you want to work from one end to the other in your case I would start at the breaker and work towards the plug but if something like the first plug is bad no juice will get past it if things are connected through it. Hope that helps

I am using multiple pc fans for ventalation. Was wondering to cut down on how many outlets i use is it possible to connect more that one fan to the plug. I have the fans connected to random 12v dc plugs I found laying around.

chunkymunkey33 said:

I just wanted to say to everyone that is receiving help in this thread, or any other thread on RIU. Please make sure that you don't just thank the person that helped you in a post, make sure you give them some rep too. If you don't know how or what it is just ask about that too. It's nice to know you're appreciated.

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Ya know I try to not clog up the site with questions that could be answered with a little research. Before I ask a question I read the whole thread trying not to waste peoples time with my lazyness. When I have been unable to find an answer in a thread I have had kind people help me. I see +rep noted often. I have no idea what this means, but it seems to be important. You have offered to explain this rep thing so please do so as I owe some nice people atta boys and would like to know how to pass them out and what it means.
Thanks in advance, I wish the search function for this site worked a little better but you can't have everthing.
Hill

chunkymunkey33 said:

I just wanted to say to everyone that is receiving help in this thread, or any other thread on RIU. Please make sure that you don't just thank the person that helped you in a post, make sure you give them some rep too. If you don't know how or what it is just ask about that too. It's nice to know you're appreciated.

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True that! Thanks Chunky.

I want to give props to Catpn for anwsering some post for me. I am sorry to those asking me directly in this thread that I can't get too. But Captn is filling in the gaps. +rep to you my brotha.

humble learner said:

this website is becoming increasingly useless to me..

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PM's get right too me, sorry I didn't see your post. I seriously get like 20 PMs a day regarding Electrical, but captn is running this thread now.

AudiLove said:

Brick here is my question for you: I have a shed with all the wiring and outlets. 2 20 AMP breakers and 3 15 AMP breakers none of them are working and I reset all breakers in the box. I also tested the outlets with a plug in outlet tester and no juice... what is my next step. Oh yeah while adding a timer I blew the outside outlet also. Tried resetting no dice.

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If your shed is out of power, its probaly a subpanel that powers it. Go to your main electrical panel and see if there is a 50-60 amp breaker in there. If there is, and its tripped, that will fix the problem. Let me know.

And to anyone else that is annoyed with me not getting to them, like I said in my first couple post, I get a ton of questions, so PM me and I will do my best to anwser, or ask captn.

Captn said:

I don't have my codebook at home, but a #8 ground will be more than enough, and a #10 will probably suffice. Typically, conduit is run on the surface of the wall. 1" can be run through studs, though it is a pain in the ass. 1 1/2" is really too big for that. The other choice is to mount a junction box somewhere, run the conduit into that, and change over to romex (nm) cable. All of these options comply with NEC.

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Number 10 THHN is sufficient with number 6 wire.

Hill0046 said:

Ya know I try to not clog up the site with questions that could be answered with a little research. Before I ask a question I read the whole thread trying not to waste peoples time with my lazyness. When I have been unable to find an answer in a thread I have had kind people help me. I see +rep noted often. I have no idea what this means, but it seems to be important. You have offered to explain this rep thing so please do so as I owe some nice people atta boys and would like to know how to pass them out and what it means.
Thanks in advance, I wish the search function for this site worked a little better but you can't have everthing.
Hill

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On the right side of all posts, just above "join date" there is a scale. Click that and you will be taken to the rep page. Make sure you leave your name in the comments section, so they know who left the rep. To see who has repped you, click "my rollitup" at the top left, and scroll down.

Hiroshi said:

I am using multiple pc fans for ventalation. Was wondering to cut down on how many outlets i use is it possible to connect more that one fan to the plug. I have the fans connected to random 12v dc plugs I found laying around.

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I'm sorry, but I don't know anything about pc fans or electronics...maybe one of the computer savvy users can answer this.

Hiroshi said:

I am using multiple pc fans for ventalation. Was wondering to cut down on how many outlets i use is it possible to connect more that one fan to the plug. I have the fans connected to random 12v dc plugs I found laying around.

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Check your pc fans and write down the amperage draw. Now, as long as your 12v dc adapter can handle 2 or more fans, amperage wise, you can wire them together. Normally, a 12v adapter can only handle 1 pc fan. But, if you spend a little bit of money (like 30-60 bucks) you can get a high amperage adapter which you can wire multiple PC fans to.

Hey man, I have a quick wiring question. I have an S&P TD-125 fan, and i bought a DPDT switch for it, since well, i wanted to make a simple concept more difficult. The fan has 3 wires. (White = common) (Brown = low speed) (Black = hi speed). The toggle switch has 6 terminals. Since there are 5 wires total (pos & neg from the extention cord also) when i wire up the switch do I need to jumper the common to both the terminals associated with the black and brown wire? Thats what I'm leaning towards, but i'm no expert. thanks in advance!

trolldom said:

Hey man, I have a quick wiring question. I have an S&P TD-125 fan, and i bought a DPDT switch for it, since well, i wanted to make a simple concept more difficult. The fan has 3 wires. (White = common) (Brown = low speed) (Black = hi speed). The toggle switch has 6 terminals. Since there are 5 wires total (pos & neg from the extention cord also) when i wire up the switch do I need to jumper the common to both the terminals associated with the black and brown wire? Thats what I'm leaning towards, but i'm no expert. thanks in advance!

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can you post a link to a schematic?

I just purchased a 3" PC fan and have been looking around my house for an adapter that will work with it. The pc fan reads 120V ~ 60Hz 12W which would mean it draws 0.1A. The closest to matching I can find is a 10W 120V adapter which would be 0.083333A. Can I use this adapter or will it not work because of the amperage is lower than that of the fan. Also I found other adapters that put out 0.4A and 0.7A but also didn't list the correct 12W to match the fan. Can I use either of these adapters or will the excess amps cause a problem?

For anyone that can answer my questions:

1) If I paid an electrician to install a sub panel to my breaker box, what do I need to buy to have everything ready for the electrician when he comes, as far as materials(wires, etc..)?

2) I need 2 30 amp connections, after the sub panel is installed do I have to pay the electrician to run wire to my room(from the sub panel) to have all the available outlets I need for my lights, fans, and a/c? In other words I need all the available outlets for all the amps I'll be using(coming from the sub panel).

Hemp4Victory said:

I just purchased a 3" PC fan and have been looking around my house for an adapter that will work with it. The pc fan reads 120V ~ 60Hz 12W which would mean it draws 0.1A. The closest to matching I can find is a 10W 120V adapter which would be 0.083333A. Can I use this adapter or will it not work because of the amperage is lower than that of the fan. Also I found other adapters that put out 0.4A and 0.7A but also didn't list the correct 12W to match the fan. Can I use either of these adapters or will the excess amps cause a problem?

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As long as the adapter puts out the correct voltage and the load is less than the nameplate rating, its fine. Don't use the 10w, use one of the others.

humble learner said:

For anyone that can answer my questions:

1) If I paid an electrician to install a sub panel to my breaker box, what do I need to buy to have everything ready for the electrician when he comes, as far as materials(wires, etc..)?

2) I need 2 30 amp connections, after the sub panel is installed do I have to pay the electrician to run wire to my room(from the sub panel) to have all the available outlets I need for my lights, fans, and a/c? In other words I need all the available outlets for all the amps I'll be using(coming from the sub panel).

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Here is a material list for the electrical station pictured below. The subpanel is the box on the upper right, to the left of that is the timer. Two of the outlets are run by the timer, the other three come off the subpanel directly. The whole thing is mounted in my grow room.

For the equipment you mentioned in your earlier post, you should go with a 100amp breaker and #2 romex or #1 SER for the feed (maybe larger if your A/C is really big). Also, you will need a timer rated to at least 50 amps, or you could get two smaller ones. You will also need a few more duplex outlets with covers and handy boxes. Other than that its pretty much all the same. Good luck.

1 100amp Square D QO Indoor panel with added ground bar (use whatever panel make you like, rated to at least 50amps)

1 Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer

2 20amp single pole breakers (you will want 1 20a and 1 30a)

12ft. 12/2 romex cable (you will also want 3ft. 10/2 romex)

16 1/2" romex connectors

6 handy boxes

6 20a/125v duplex receptacles (recommend 3 be GFI)

receptacle covers

2'x2'x3/4" plywood

screws to anchor it all and 1/2" staples for the romex

Captn said:

Here is a material list for the electrical station pictured below. The subpanel is the box on the upper right, to the left of that is the timer. Two of the outlets are run by the timer, the other three come off the subpanel directly. The whole thing is mounted in my grow room.

For the equipment you mentioned in your earlier post, you should go with a 100amp breaker and #2 romex or #1 SER for the feed (maybe larger if your A/C is really big). Also, you will need a timer rated to at least 50 amps, or you could get two smaller ones. You will also need a few more duplex outlets with covers and handy boxes. Other than that its pretty much all the same. Good luck.

1 100amp Square D QO Indoor panel with added ground bar (use whatever panel make you like, rated to at least 50amps)

1 Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer

2 20amp single pole breakers (you will want 1 20a and 1 30a)

12ft. 12/2 romex cable (you will also want 3ft. 10/2 romex)

16 1/2" romex connectors

6 handy boxes

6 20a/125v duplex receptacles (recommend 3 be GFI)

receptacle covers

2'x2'x3/4" plywood

screws to anchor it all and 1/2" staples for the romex

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perfect, thank you x100 exactly what i needed to know

I was going to get a MLC-4(4 light timer), do I replace that in place of the Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer, or get the Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer and add the MLC after?

Thanks in advance Captn.....

would you say all that stuff on your list would run about $400-$500?