If the board/light isn't specified in the table, then you've got to eyeball it.
The XS 1500 number is from my testing so it's as accurate as I can get it. The light was warmed up for 30+ minutes and my Apogee was calibrated at the factory (but tests out to +1.4%). Same with the Growcraft flower light number.
0.017 is even higher than the Growcraft and is up in the heavy red category, maybe an HLG with a 730 bump.
The spectrum below is for the KS 3k from the website. There's the standard blue spike and a fair amount of orange but not much red. I'd go with 0.0145 or so.
Keep in mind — it's all "wrong". A lux meter is 5%±, throw in a non-specific conversion, and a light that's not new out of the box plus the fact that a 1" change in distance to the light source is 50µmol and…it's all "wrong".
Having said that, it's f'ing great that you're using a meter and getting your head around "more light" but a meter, lux or PAR, is a means of "adjusting fire". I will let you get your plant in the, say, 600µmol ballpark, for a plant in mid-veg.
After you get in the ballpark, you start the process of turning up the dimmer until your plants get too much light and, once they tell you that, drop the dimmer by a few % or raise the light 1" or 2".
There's no problem with giving plants a bit too much light - they'll "canoe" or "taco" or rotate the leaf vertically, like a Venetian blind. Once you see that, turn it down a bit and you'll be livin' on the edge with a very happy, very well fed plant.
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I take light readings in a grid format, left back, left center, left front, center back, etc. With nine sample points (for a plant in late veg or early flower) I can get a good idea of how even the canopy is and then, if I need to, use plant yo-yo's to get different parts of the plant closer to the light.
This canopy wasn't very even.
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