First Grow 2x2x4 Tent

Yes cut it TF up! In the name of science do 1 plant! Leave the other alone, collect data for YOUR STYLE. Like homie said there is no data. That means no data either way good or bad. The most important part of cultivating is finding what works for you. My tip would be to experiment! Gain the knowledge. What results are you looking for? Set a goal and get there.

Do you have a calendar tablet for journals? Collect as much notes on every grow, individual plant and cultivar and continue setting the bar for your style. They look great by the way! Good work, keep it up!
My only goal is to make sure the two can fit in the tent and I get something smokeable.

And I have to be away for a week so the other goal is that I can keep them alive.
 

bignugs68

Well-Known Member
Looks like your setup is nice and tidy. You mentioned defoliating, and that was the only thing I was questioning too since you do have some leaf on leaf action going and your canopy is almost without holes/breathability. What are you temps and RH? As for some of your questions, I can only really answer the tight node spacing. Most people I've learned from say 1/2"-1" is great. I also know if you raise your light, or lower intensity, the plant is more likely to stretch. Your leaves are a little light on new growth, and someone mentioned weeks 4-7 get the most growth, so maybe a slight bump in nitrogen? What do they look like in a photo without the LED light on?

lol the idea is purely bro science, but now I wonder if raising the light now to get them to stretch would be good. So that come weeks 4-7 she really takes off. Always heard a bigger plant = more yield. :confused:bongsmilie
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
This is your current grow?
No. The picture is from my first grow of 2022.

Current grow is below. After the 2022 grow shown above, I switched to one plant per grow because two plants was such a cat fight. I can't quite fill out a tent with a topped and LST'd plant so I'm going to try two plants now. One of the five in the photo below is gone and I'll drop one more at each stage until I have the two that look the best.

These are Original Glue seeds from Nirvana, getting Jack's 3-2-1 at 0.4 EC, 286 µmol (200 from a Vipar XS-1500 + 86 from a Rapid LED Royal Blue puck), ambient temp is 80°± and VPD is set to 0.8 using an AC Infinity Controller 69 Pro+ and their small humidifier. I've been remiss in getting them in the res but that'll happen this weekend.

1728015761809.jpeg
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advise.

I decided there wasn't much worth defoliating at the moment.

Tried to do a little more lead tucking.

Goal is still to keep them as short as possible, I don't mind if yield suffers a bit so long as they fit in the fit and I get some smokeable weed.


This is the two this evening.
Everything looks great. Keep up the good work!

Leaf tucking - rearranging leaves that are closer to the light so that the leaves lower in the canopy receive a lesser amount of light. I did that once until I got out my PAR meter. Light intensity falls off very rapidly so the effect of moving leaves at the top of the canopy out of the way means that your plant is getting fewer photons = less photosynthesis = less food is generated.

Growers also like to "expose bud sites" to light which is strange because bud sites have a very limited ability to photosynthesize, certainly far less than the leaves that are being moved away from the canopy.

You will need to get fans in the tent and keep the inline fan running to evacuate the tent. The conventional wisdom is that leaves should always be rustling on the plant. With a small tent full of plants, that's a good idea. One of the nice things with autos is that you can leave the tent open so there are a lot of options when it comes to getting good air flow.
 
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Delps8

Well-Known Member
Looks like your setup is nice and tidy. You mentioned defoliating, and that was the only thing I was questioning too since you do have some leaf on leaf action going and your canopy is almost without holes/breathability. What are you temps and RH? As for some of your questions, I can only really answer the tight node spacing. Most people I've learned from say 1/2"-1" is great. I also know if you raise your light, or lower intensity, the plant is more likely to stretch. Your leaves are a little light on new growth, and someone mentioned weeks 4-7 get the most growth, so maybe a slight bump in nitrogen? What do they look like in a photo without the LED light on?

lol the idea is purely bro science, but now I wonder if raising the light now to get them to stretch would be good. So that come weeks 4-7 she really takes off. Always heard a bigger plant = more yield. :confused:bongsmilie
Plants stretch in response to PPFD. They don't sense the height of a light, but they react to light intensity and, of course, color/wavelength.

The best way to keep a plant short, in terms of light, is to use a veg light and give it lots of light. Veg lights have lots of blue photons and blue photons inhibit cell expansion. By increasing light intensity (increase wattage and/or lower hang height) plants will tend to be shorter and will have a large number of small leaves. There's no issue with leaves overlapping, in terms of photosynthesis.

In contrast, flower lights/lights with a lot of red will tend to grow taller. If you can get some far red (730nm) you'll get cell expansion but deep red (660) which is standard in a "white" LED just delivers a lot of photons per watt.

Raising a light will reduce PPFD which will tend to cause the plant to stretch if PPFD is low. The main reason to raise a grow light is because the PPFD map get more uniform as hang height increases.

More light allows a plant to generate more food which tends to result in a bigger plant. "Back in the day" the yield estimate was based on the wattage of the HPS light. Today, it's assumed that a white LED is used and it's 0.2 to 0.3 gm of flower per sq meter of canopy per mol of light the plant has received over the life of the grow. That formula is in Mitch Westoreland's superb YT videos that he dropped earlier this year.
 
Looks like your setup is nice and tidy. You mentioned defoliating, and that was the only thing I was questioning too since you do have some leaf on leaf action going and your canopy is almost without holes/breathability. What are you temps and RH? As for some of your questions, I can only really answer the tight node spacing. Most people I've learned from say 1/2"-1" is great. I also know if you raise your light, or lower intensity, the plant is more likely to stretch. Your leaves are a little light on new growth, and someone mentioned weeks 4-7 get the most growth, so maybe a slight bump in nitrogen? What do they look like in a photo without the LED light on?

lol the idea is purely bro science, but now I wonder if raising the light now to get them to stretch would be good. So that come weeks 4-7 she really takes off. Always heard a bigger plant = more yield. :confused:bongsmilie
I don't mind so much about yield for my first grow.

It is a bigger plant that terrifies me
Fitting in the tent is the goal.

Average temps over the day is 24c ( 75F) humidity average is 55% and VPD is 1.15

I was debating going some defoliation as the leaves are on top of each other on 1 plant.

Last two feeds have been with BioBizz nutes at 1/3rd strength so 0.3ml BioBizz grow per 1l.
Due to feed today so will could up to 0.5ml or should I go a little more?
They are in 2g pots so watering about every 2.5 days
 
Everything looks great. Keep up the good work!

Leaf tucking - rearranging leaves that are closer to the light so that the leaves lower in the canopy receive a lesser amount of light. I did that once until I got out my PAR meter. Light intensity falls off very rapidly so the effect of moving leaves at the top of the canopy out of the way means that your plant is getting fewer photons = less photosynthesis = less food is generated.

Growers also like to "expose bud sites" to light which is strange because bud sites have a very limited ability to photosynthesize, certainly far less than the leaves that are being moved away from the canopy.

You will need to get fans in the tent and keep the inline fan running to evacuate the tent. The conventional wisdom is that leaves should always be rustling on the plant. With a small tent full of plants, that's a good idea. One of the nice things with autos is that you can leave the tent open so there are a lot of options when it comes to getting good air flow.
I've got the ACI inline and oscillating fans in the tent. The inline is always on a min of 1 and goes up to 4 when it needs to reduce humidity.

The oscillating fan is blowing just above the canopy but don't know if I needed pointing more into the canopy. This is set to cycle between a speed 1 for 1 minute then speed 5 for 5 minutes.

I have been trying to expose the lower growth to light by tucking fan leaves. i thought this was meant to encourage these to grow
 
Before more LST

1000015152.jpg

After
1000015151.jpg

1000015150.jpg

No idea whether any of this is the correct approach.

But they are still very short so I think that is better than tall.

All advise welcome
 

Delps8

Well-Known Member
Before more LST

View attachment 5430961

After
View attachment 5430964

View attachment 5430965

No idea whether any of this is the correct approach.

But they are still very short so I think that is better than tall.

All advise welcome
They look really good.

This plant was a photoperiod plant that was topped and LST'd. The top of the res is fiber glass so I can't push metal stakes through the top. Instead, I use fishing weights on hooks to hold the branches down.

The goal of low stress training it to control the shape of the plant. In my case, I wanted to fill as much of the grow space as possible and, second, get an even canopy. It ended up at 30" across and 24" front to back so I wasn't able to fill the canopy but I did get a really even canopy.



IMG_0174.jpeg

IMG_0176.jpeg


In your grow, the goal is to get an even canopy but you'll want to shape your plants so they don't "overgrow" each other's space. Putting the plants in the corners like that is a good idea.

Given that each plant is in a corner of a 2' x 2', you're getting to the point where you've gotten as much horizontal growth as you want and will soon have to let them go vertical.

They look like they're doing really well. Good structure and great color. Keep adjusting the plant stakes that you're using and plants always look a little beat up when they're young and being LST'd but that changes very quickly after the LST session.
 
They look really good.

This plant was a photoperiod plant that was topped and LST'd. The top of the res is fiber glass so I can't push metal stakes through the top. Instead, I use fishing weights on hooks to hold the branches down.

The goal of low stress training it to control the shape of the plant. In my case, I wanted to fill as much of the grow space as possible and, second, get an even canopy. It ended up at 30" across and 24" front to back so I wasn't able to fill the canopy but I did get a really even canopy.



View attachment 5430999

View attachment 5431000


In your grow, the goal is to get an even canopy but you'll want to shape your plants so they don't "overgrow" each other's space. Putting the plants in the corners like that is a good idea.

Given that each plant is in a corner of a 2' x 2', you're getting to the point where you've gotten as much horizontal growth as you want and will soon have to let them go vertical.

They look like they're doing really well. Good structure and great color. Keep adjusting the plant stakes that you're using and plants always look a little beat up when they're young and being LST'd but that changes very quickly after the LST session.
Looks like an amazing setup.

I think I'm seeing a few pistills on 1 of the plants.
Hoping stretch starts soon and finishes quickly
 
Gave another 1,750 ml each with half strength BioBizz grow again.

I think I am starting to see a few pistils now.

Purple Lemonade Topped
.1000015173.jpg

1000015171.jpg

Cream Cookies

1000015174.jpg

1000015170.jpg
 
Since I am not right out to the edge of the pot with the stakes thinking of adding a scrog net.

Any advise on when to put in the scrog net and what is the best height for it?
 
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