Got my GE BrightStiks

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
I see. Very cool. And Jerry does have cheapo reflectors. 88 cents cheap! :P I used them on my light. They're no different then ledil besides being wider and the lines go horizontally on the inside rather than vertically like angelina.
how do you check out jerry's stock? These things are going from 4.49 up to 9.99 (plus shipping):spew:
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
jerry only sells these for 0.88 to people that buy cobs from him. i wanted 100 and he wanted $1.55 for them. with his PP fees and shipping might as well buy angelinas. dude is kind of a shell game imo. when i asked him to quote 100 reflectors he said :

We have been in contact for more than 6 months, and we got your enquiries for many times, but never orders.
Could you tell me the reason why you don't order from us? because our price higher, or you doubt it is not original Cree leds? That is very important for us, because maybe many customers have the same reasons as you.

to which i replied, "its both, i have an authorized cree distributor with better pricing."

He then goes on to try to lowball the 25 pc price i get from cutter by a buck... if i buy 200 (which im sure mark would do in a heartbeat). i know people have had good experiences with KB but i dunno...

not really the place for this, resume the thread...
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
anyway i think the next move for these A19s is to really try to assess the efficiency of them and get some measurements on how they work. i have a feeling they are not the most efficient just by the heat they put off, but i hope to quantify. questions to be answered:

what is the basic Vf and nominal current of the boards on these and how can we use them to our advantage. for example

  • what if you took 2 bulbs, disabled one of the drivers and ran 2 bulbs off of one driver to cut the current in half? what kind of efficiency would they have then? how much cooler would they run? would this be cost efficient?
  • what if you scrapped the OG driver cards and mounted these on a piece of aluminum angle and used the typ 94% eff meanwell style driver? how efficient then?
i certainly think the smd boards have a place, i wonder which tech they are using to hit 300 lm/W:

http://www.cree.com/News-and-Events/Cree-News/Press-Releases/2014/March/300LPW-LED-barrier

i would think those are smaller discrete leds, but they could be the individual tiny diodes they make cobs up with
 

Big smo

Well-Known Member
Not sure if they are actually called Hollywood lights but I have heard people refer to them as this many times. Sort of like a multiple bulb rectangular metal box. I grabbed one from an old job for cfl's ages back. They have wired sockets that are double sided so they thread both sides sandwiching the metal housing. I'm going to drill a few more in so it will be a little light bar with 8 of these Philips. Total cost for my new 64 watt light is just under 15$
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
Nice. You're getting probably close to 1,000 lumens with those. Fewer diodes. Probably not to hot. Now just cut a round piece of tape, stick it on the PCB and paint that plastic on both sides nice and thick white to make that reflector you cut worth while.
good call! or you could pop it off to paint it as well
 

Big smo

Well-Known Member
Have any of you guys ever messed with the colored bulbs. I just picked up an eco-smart blue GP 19 from the depot for like Five dollars. It's not bright at all but has a very strong blue tone.
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
i think those all just have colored diffusers. i wouldnt expect it to be as efficient as a real colored led.

the 5000K bulbs are quite 'blue' and the 2700k are quite 'red' so it would be hard to conceive of any color spectrum in between these you couldnt dial in by mixing bulbs

all 5000k for veg
(1) 2700k to (3) 5000k for early flowering to keep stretch down
(3) 2700k to (1) 5000k for flowering

etc
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
Not sure if they are actually called Hollywood lights but I have heard people refer to them as this many times. Sort of like a multiple bulb rectangular metal box.
you talkin about the multiple-bulb fixtures that would go above a vanity in the bathroom? usu chrome or oak or whatever?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
@BOBBY_G explain again to me how the hlg-185h-48a works again? How would you run 4 3070's in series on it? Or could you even? How do you figure these drivers out?
 

Big smo

Well-Known Member
you talkin about the multiple-bulb fixtures that would go above a vanity in the bathroom? usu chrome or oak or whatever?
Yes I'll add some pictures once it's done. Seems like an easy way to make a multiple LED light. It's 6"x36" with 4 bulbs. I'm going to drill 3 more holes and run 7 bulbs across the 36"
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
@BOBBY_G explain again to me how the hlg-185h-48a works again? How would you run 4 3070's in series on it? Or could you even? How do you figure these drivers out?

datasheet my friend! http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/HLG-185H-SPEC-806126.pdf

if youre doing what i think youre doing to get above 36V you want 36V "A" model, not 42 or48 V

i figured out (after i bought one) that the 36V driver can be turned up to 40V with the pot so it can handle all of any 3070 or 3590 with room to spare

3070@ 2.8A = 38.59V
3590@3.6A = 38.49V

a 185 has 5.2A so you could run 2 cobs each at 2.7A (with 3590s you could prob use a -B as well,
a 240 has 6.7A so you could run 2 3590s at 3.35A
a 320 has 8.9A so you could run 3 3590s at 2.96A
 
Top