GR’s Stacked 315W CMH Vertical, G13 Haze, 2017

coreywebster said:
Could be from a tiny bit too little K also @Bakersfield
Click to expand...
I use the Lucas formula with Cal Magic throughout my grow.
In veg I run 600-800ppm or 1-1.2 ec. This is where my system shines compared to my hand watering days.
I'll see inches of growth a day, but in flower the differences, for me, are more subtle.

After the stretch in flower I'll crank it up to about 1.4 ec that's when the hardier afghanis thrive and I burn the tips of the Kushes, Chems and higher Sativa plants.

I actually had someone suggest a K toxicity on my last grow. I don't know? I reuse my coco, constantly adding new to old for a few years now. I hear that coco releases a lot of K as it breaks down.
Which makes me want to try using a coco specific nutrient with lower K and S values as a comparison to my Lucas regimen.
 
Bakersfield said:
I use the Lucas formula with Cal Magic throughout my grow.
In veg I run 600-800ppm or 1-1.2 ec. This is where my system shines compared to my hand watering days.
I'll see inches of growth a day, but in flower the differences, for me, are more subtle.

After the stretch in flower I'll crank it up to about 1.4 ec that's when the hardier afghanis thrive and I burn the tips of the Kushes, Chems and higher Sativa plants.

I actually had someone suggest a K toxicity on my last grow. I don't know? I reuse my coco, constantly adding new to old for a few years now. I hear that coco releases a lot of K as it breaks down.
Which makes me want to try using a coco specific nutrient with lower K and S values as a comparison to my Lucas regimen.
Click to expand...


You using Lucas or H3ads formula for coco.
I used head when doing Hempy Buckets but I ended up using 3/5 instead of 6/9, that worked for me.
 
Bakersfield said:
I use the Lucas formula with Cal Magic throughout my grow.
In veg I run 600-800ppm or 1-1.2 ec. This is where my system shines compared to my hand watering days.
I'll see inches of growth a day, but in flower the differences, for me, are more subtle.

After the stretch in flower I'll crank it up to about 1.4 ec that's when the hardier afghanis thrive and I burn the tips of the Kushes, Chems and higher Sativa plants.

I actually had someone suggest a K toxicity on my last grow. I don't know? I reuse my coco, constantly adding new to old for a few years now. I hear that coco releases a lot of K as it breaks down.
Which makes me want to try using a coco specific nutrient with lower K and S values as a comparison to my Lucas regimen.
Click to expand...

Cool. The only reason I suggested a lack of K was just because it can present as nute burn but with more yellowing between the veins.

I believe its the other way around. The process of making coco gives it a very high K and S content pre it been buffered
When they buffer it they wash it with Calcium which replaces the K due the high CEC and it washes away most of S too. With coco nutrients you end up with a lot more calcium due to the ions attracting the Calcium and locking some of it out, so they whack lots in to counter that problem. It also latches on to magnesium but the magnesium is more available to the root system but when the calcium is locked up it takes a really long time to release tiny amounts at a time.
Where did you hear it breaks down and releases K? I would love to find out more. Please don't take that as doubting your word, I'm still finding lots of new info on coco even after recycling mine for going on 7 years.
If you use dehydrated coco then it would defo release some K as we cant buffer it on the scale the guys at canna for example do.

I wonder if there is more K in the coco specific nutes now. Whats the NPK of the lucas formula? Canna coco is 5-4-3 not including pk boost,

Edit, I misinterpreted the info, your correct, coco nutrient have less K to account for what's in the coco. I figured when it was buffered most of it was removed but apparently not. Cheers for that Bakersfield.
 
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gr865 said:
You using Lucas or H3ads formula for coco.
I used head when doing Hempy Buckets but I ended up using 3/5 instead of 6/9, that worked for me.
Click to expand...
I haven't tried the H3ad method. I'll definitely give it a look over.
I still follow the Lucas ratio of 1 micro to 2 bloom and I add 1 part Cal Magic. So it's 1:2:1.
I was using The Kiss method with MaxiBloom, but for some reason my plants like the flora series better.
 
coreywebster said:
Cool. The only reason I suggested a lack of K was just because it can present as nute burn but with more yellowing between the veins.

I believe its the other way around. The process of making coco gives it a very high K and S content pre it been buffered
When they buffer it they wash it with Calcium which replaces the K due the high CEC and it washes away most of S too. With coco nutrients you end up with a lot more calcium due to the ions attracting the Calcium and locking some of it out, so they whack lots in to counter that problem. It also latches on to magnesium but the magnesium is more available to the root system but when the calcium is locked up it takes a really long time to release tiny amounts at a time.
Where did you hear it breaks down and releases K? I would love to find out more. Please don't take that as doubting your word, I'm still finding lots of new info on coco even after recycling mine for going on 7 years.
If you use dehydrated coco then it would defo release some K as we cant buffer it on the scale the guys at canna for example do.

I wonder if there is more K in the coco specific nutes now. Whats the NPK of the lucas formula? Canna coco is 5-4-3 not including pk boost,

Edit, I misinterpreted the info, your correct, coco nutrient have less K to account for what's in the coco. I figured when it was buffered most of it was removed but apparently not. Cheers for that Bakersfield.
Click to expand...
Here's a couple of good articles that explains the potassium and calcium connection with coco.
http://www.cannagardening.com/growing_on_coco_busting_the_myth

https://manicbotanix.com/coco-substrate-and-hydroponics/

I'm still searching for a good article that talks about potassium release with decomposition, although the Canna article touches on the subject briefly.
 
New system seems to be working ok, need to put a ball valve on each 1/4" line to give me better control. I also am going to try removing the drip emitters and replace them with a tee to give me two watering points per plant without drippers attached. I tried it last evening and when I turned it on no water hit the pots it oversprayed every pot, LOL At 24 days trichs are abundant.
To day I am going to get the ball valves to adjust flow to each pot, Some need less than the others so this should give me the control I need.
I believe that Bakersfield uses and open line without drippers, so hopefully he will chime in here and let me know how is system is set up.
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GR
 
This AM I installed the QDC inline fittings to each plant, now I will be able to remove them as needed to do some work on them, take some pics of them or maybe just have them out of the tent to admire them. I am headed into town today to go to the eye doc, and to pick up the 1//4" ball valves for individual plant watering control.

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I hope this does not offend anyone.
GF checking out the girls.
She is not nude, she is wearing UV protected dark glasses!
Can you believe she is a "Senior Citizen"?
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GR
 
gr865 said:
New system seems to be working ok, need to put a ball valve on each 1/4" line to give me better control. I also am going to try removing the drip emitters and replace them with a tee to give me two watering points per plant without drippers attached. I tried it last evening and when I turned it on no water hit the pots it oversprayed every pot, LOL At 24 days trichs are abundant.
To day I am going to get the ball valves to adjust flow to each pot, Some need less than the others so this should give me the control I need.
I believe that Bakersfield uses and open line without drippers, so hopefully he will chime in here and let me know how is system is set up.
View attachment 3969118 View attachment 3969117 View attachment 3969116 View attachment 3969115

GR
Click to expand...
I was thinking that you might have too much pressure, in your lines, to use them without emitters. You don't want water spraying around.
Using a valve to turn down the flow sounds like the best way to get the ultimate control of flow to each line.
 
gr865 said:
This AM I installed the QDC inline fittings to each plant, now I will be able to remove them as needed to do some work on them, take some pics of them or maybe just have them out of the tent to admire them. I am headed into town today to go to the eye doc, and to pick up the 1//4" ball valves for individual plant watering control.

View attachment 3969151 View attachment 3969150

I hope this does not offend anyone.
GF checking out the girls.
She is not nude, she is wearing UV protected dark glasses!
Can you believe she is a "Senior Citizen"?
View attachment 3969154

GR
Click to expand...
All your ladies look good, you're a lucky man.
 
Day 27 12/12
Just a few general shots
Side views
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Top view
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Group shot after defo & bunches of little buds
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Giving this a try.
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JDMase said:
Hey GR, thinking of getting a second CMH and im wondering how you recommend hanging the second one? I hang one from the top at the moment. Don't want a second from the top with a cable close to it what with the heat. I tried hanging the lower lamp from the frame of the upper lamp but the chains were too close and they got very hot.

Is it possible to get a frame or something to mount one at the bottom?

Thanks
Click to expand...

JD,
I hang both lights from the frame work of the tent. I use clothespins to keep the chains in place. By sliding them I can get the lamps exactly on center. The lower stand I built would not allow me to get all the plants equal distance from the lamps so hanging was the best option for me.

lights.png20170630_191138 (2).jpg 20170614_215847.jpg

Sedan just made a light stand that attaches to his bottom fan.

My lower lamp chord hangs about 6 to 8 inches from the upper lamp and I have no heat issues with the chord.

Hope this helps

GR
 

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gr865 said:
JD,
I hang both lights from the frame work of the tent. I use clothespins to keep the chains in place. By sliding them I can get the lamps exactly on center. The lower stand I built would not allow me to get all the plants equal distance from the lamps so hanging was the best option for me.

View attachment 3970318View attachment 3970316 View attachment 3970330

Sedan just made a light stand that attaches to his bottom fan.

My lower lamp chord hangs about 6 to 8 inches from the upper lamp and I have no heat issues with the chord.

Hope this helps

GR
Click to expand...
Ah great stuff I had wondered if it would be an issue, im an over thinker and remember being taught heat is electrics worst enemy haha. I guess it's negligible in this instance.

Thanks for the specifications, I had also wondered how far away to hang them from one another. Do you have both daylight bulbs or do you have the Agro for flower?
 
Mine is about 14 inches from the bottom of the upper lamp to the top of the lower lamp.
I am running both daylight now, ran them in veg also, with the cost of the lamps I cannot afford two set of lamps. Hope to get the 4100k before my next grow later in the yr, when I return from CR, if I return.

GR
 
Day 30 12/12

Minor defo day, hand water with nutes and Great White.
Buds forming nicely, except the Critical Kush, it is a stretcher and from when I grew it before it puts on buds starting around week four so it is just starting.

Critical Kush
My lady is 5'7"
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G13 - 2
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g13 - 4
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To Be Con't
 
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