Heating intake air

bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
jijiandfarmgang said:
It isn't. But the cold air has less water saturation value. What it touches will condensate. You will see.

- Jiji
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Hey!
Managed temps the last couple weeks in single digits. I am seeing some of the condensation you describe but no build up. Probably ruining the cheap inline fan directly attached as I doubt all its parts are stainless...so I may remove that completely as I never run it. Cut way back on my exhausting from every 15 min. to 9, 15 minute shots spaced over the 12 hour light period. Temps have stayed > 63F so far. I have not needed to revert to heating the filter box, in any case. So far...pretty easy.
 
jijiandfarmgang

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
I have a supco iaq50 and a sentinel cppm-4. Output on the the cppm-4 is db-9, and on the supco I think its 3.5mm.

I think they both just output data. I have a usb to serial converter. I set it up, and using linux and moserial, I couldn't get any data. I was able to receive data from an older serial device using this setup.

The manual for supco just says baud 9600 8 bits of data and no parity. The cppm4 says nothing.

I'll make a seperate post see if anyone has some insight.

- Jiji
 
D

dkik06

Well-Known Member
I am dealing with extreme cold right now too. I installed a thermostat to a space heater and it's been keeping my cabinet perfect. It only runs when I open the door or if the lights are off. IMG_0672.JPG
 

Attachments

bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
dkik06 said:
I am dealing with extreme cold right now too. I installed a thermostat to a space heater and it's been keeping my cabinet perfect. It only runs when I open the door or if the lights are off. View attachment 3300618
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I have somthing similar going. Lux temp-controlled outlet powering oil-filled radiator that is angled, forcing contact and a diversion to cold incoming air. I too am pleased, but I have another -20F or more to experience.
image.jpg
 
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dipm0de

dipm0de

Active Member
bravedave said:
I have somthing similar going. Lux temp-controlled outlet powering oil-filled radiator that is angled, forcing contact and a diversion to cold incoming air. I too am pleased, but I have another -20F or more to experience.
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How are the temps working for so far?
I'm gonna be running into the same problem you did so i'm curious to how its working out for you so far? also another question, what kind of light are you using? is it HOOD light?
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
dipm0de said:
How are the temps working for so far?
I'm gonna be running into the same problem you did so i'm curious to how its working out for you so far? also another question, what kind of light are you using? is it HOOD light?
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Still waiting for the real cold stuff but handled temps around 0F for a few days, just fine. Temps never dipping below 63F. I am gettimg a fair amount of condensation on my intake when exhausting. Only exhausting though 3 times a day for co2 now (start, middle, end of light cycle). They are 15 minute exhaust sessions because my timer is limited to that. My room really only needs to exhaust for 2/3 minutes to replace room air, so I am looking for a more flexible timer thst won't break the bank. If/when things start stinking I may need to run it more often.

Oh and...no hood, just a cheapy wing.
 
jijiandfarmgang

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
bravedave said:
Still waiting for the real cold stuff but handled temps around 0F for a few days, just fine. Temps never dipping below 63F. I am gettimg a fair amount of condensation on my intake when exhausting. Only exhausting though 3 times a day for co2 now (start, middle, end of light cycle). They are 15 minute exhaust sessions because my timer is limited to that. My room really only needs to exhaust for 2/3 minutes to replace room air, so I am looking for a more flexible timer thst won't break the bank. If/when things start stinking I may need to run it more often.

Oh and...no hood, just a cheapy wing.
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I bought a used omron digital relay timer on ebay for a similar task. Not the most intuitive piece of equipment though.

- Jiji
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
jijiandfarmgang said:
I bought a used omron digital relay timer on ebay for a similar task. Not the most intuitive piece of equipment though.

- Jiji
Click to expand...
Good morning! Just looked at a couple. There is one H7* model for $25. (Others for more)Doesn't provide much info and I don't see it on the Omron page. Looks like other models feature 12 on/off settings and I assume the "off" can follow the "on" immediately. ?? What model do/did you have??
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
Da Google finds me some decent outdoor digital timers that should do the trick.

I do like the analog for its mechanical, binary logic as one has to worry a bit about whether a digital failure results in an off or on...and I suppose things like power outages and the units response to it. So then, really a UPS is probably a necessity. 10 below and my exhaust gets stuck on because,say, I lose power for a few seconds...
 
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dipm0de

dipm0de

Active Member
bravedave said:
Still waiting for the real cold stuff but handled temps around 0F for a few days, just fine. Temps never dipping below 63F. I am gettimg a fair amount of condensation on my intake when exhausting. Only exhausting though 3 times a day for co2 now (start, middle, end of light cycle). They are 15 minute exhaust sessions because my timer is limited to that. My room really only needs to exhaust for 2/3 minutes to replace room air, so I am looking for a more flexible timer thst won't break the bank. If/when things start stinking I may need to run it more often.

Oh and...no hood, just a cheapy wing.
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Why don't you add another 100-150watt commercial hps/mh flood light which will defiantly give off some heat and extra light for the babies at same time, and out that light on thermostat controller...
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
dipm0de said:
Why don't you add another 100-150watt commercial hps/mh flood light which will defiantly give off some heat and extra light for the babies at same time, and out that light on thermostat controller...
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I am not having trouble generating heat...although another light is desired for yeild purposes some day. My current light keeps things in the mid 70s easy without assist from the heater. The heater has only been running during lights-out and when the exhausting. I'd love the heater to go on high about X minutes before (anticipate) and stay on for Y minutes after the exhaust starts pulling in that cold air.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
jijiandfarmgang said:
No, you'll get a pool of condensation on the reflector and hose will drip condensation.

The best way (probably) to set it up would be with a heat recovery ventilation system. Never heard of anyone trying that in a grow room though.........so yeah........

- Jiji
Click to expand...
Me.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Interesting thread that never seems to ask and answer basic questions;

1. How hot does it get with the lights on and no ventilation? If it doesn't get hot enough to need exhausting, your first problem is adding enough insulation to change that.

2. I haven't seen/could have missed a clear description of what you're doing to maintain heat at night.

@jijiandfarmgang knows her shit and so does @SnapsProvolone . Both have mentioned thermostats but I don't see that you've installed one. Why not?

The plants want a nice consistent environment within a fairly narrow temperature range- which are perfect parameters for the use of thermostats. When the room gets hot, a cooling thermostat should control an exhaust fan- which will only run when it gets too warm. No guesswork required. This will also keep daytime RH from getting out of control. If you're concerned about cold intake air flash freezing plants, aim the intake directly at the floor and put a fan on the same circuit that blows that air against a wall, mixing and preheating it.

At night, a heating thermostat should control both a heater AND a fan that will blow that heat around so it mixes the air in your room. This will help keep RH down at night.

Put your CO² burner on a CO² controller and let it do its thing if you want, although I'm with Jiji in that I don't think it will make much difference over venting. Fully sealed room HVAC is a long step up the expense curve and that's when that burner will do you the most good.
 
bravedave

bravedave

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Interesting thread that never seems to ask and answer basic questions;

1. How hot does it get with the lights on and no ventilation? If it doesn't get hot enough to need exhausting, your first problem is adding enough insulation to change that.

2. I haven't seen/could have missed a clear description of what you're doing to maintain heat at night.

@jijiandfarmgang knows her shit and so does @SnapsProvolone . Both have mentioned thermostats but I don't see that you've installed one. Why not?

The plants want a nice consistent environment within a fairly narrow temperature range- which are perfect parameters for the use of thermostats. When the room gets hot, a cooling thermostat should control an exhaust fan- which will only run when it gets too warm. No guesswork required. This will also keep daytime RH from getting out of control. If you're concerned about cold intake air flash freezing plants, aim the intake directly at the floor and put a fan on the same circuit that blows that air against a wall, mixing and preheating it.

At night, a heating thermostat should control both a heater AND a fan that will blow that heat around so it mixes the air in your room. This will help keep RH down at night.

Put your CO² burner on a CO² controller and let it do its thing if you want, although I'm with Jiji in that I don't think it will make much difference over venting. Fully sealed room HVAC is a long step up the expense curve and that's when that burner will do you the most good.
Click to expand...
Hey thanks for chiming in. Good advice and yes I have heeded (and headed ;) )the advice of both @SnapsProvolone and @jijiandfarmgang.

When my exhaust runs, it trips the heater thermostat pretty quickly albeit the warm up takes a couple minutes. The cold air passes through it. It is angled, so the cold air is also diverted while being forced to hit the radiator ribs. Being on that thermostat, the heater, kicks on come darkness. See my previous post just before yours for other info, but so far temps are in control and I think my biggest issues are behind me. This is my, and my rooms, first winter grow.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Awesome! I'd babysit a new setup or a big change for the first few cold nights, but it sounds solid to me now. I'm looking forward to seeing what you pull out of there!
 
jijiandfarmgang

jijiandfarmgang

Well-Known Member
It was a OMRON H5CX-AD timer, used for 25 dollars. I set it up as a dual cycle timer. A set amount time on and a set amount time off.

Extremely precise, and they make all sorts of other timers.

I was just throwin that idea out there.

Really anything can fail. I've had a mechanical light timer fail on. Took me a day or two in flower to find out. I've also had a power bar fail that worked for years controlling exhaust fans. It sucks walking into a grow at plus 100f. Also anything labeled C.A.P. thats electronic has failed on me lol.

- Jiji
 
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