Heisenbeans Genetics

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whytewidow

whytewidow

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Turpman said:
I don't see a driver? I wouldn't hook 110 direct to the LEDs if they are not designed for 110 you will fry them. 110 is pretty easy to wire. Ground is the only one that really matters. The hot and neutral you can mix up and it will be fine. Green is ground.
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The driver should be mounted ontop. Those are not 120v strips.
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Heisenbeans said:
I'm a fan of cobs to be honest. Not a big fan of the boards unless you can get them over the entire footprint.
I think strips are where it's at now but that is alot of shit to take in. So many different strips and parallel wiring is a PIA.
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Parallel wiring is much simpler than series. Series you have to daisy chain everything together. Your driver has to have normally 200+ VDC on the single output. Parallel one 54v or 24v or 36v whatever you're using. Two wires to each and your done. Parallel is the safest and fastest. When it comes to strips.

Edit: when you run series parallel that's when wiring can get tricky. Wiring groups of strips together in series then into parallel to the driver. That's how I'm doing my 17 strip veg light. Groups of strips in series. Then parallel to the driver. All only being pushed on a hlg185-c700a everything at 700mA then split down to 350mA then wired parallel to keep the voltage up.
 
Greenthumbs256

Greenthumbs256

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cool thanks guys, you have made up my mind for me! I think I will be happy!

last question, will I notice any difference in yield or density of my nugs? coming from hortilux eye 1k hps! the good bulbs lol! I've read the 550, will replace 1k single ended, but the 600 will replace a double ended hps! makes me think I'm looking at a possible increase! as long as nothing is a decrease in weight or density of my buds I'm happy, don't need an increase regardless of how awesome that would be!
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

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Greenthumbs256 said:
cool thanks guys, you have made up my mind for me! I think I will be happy!

last question, will I notice any difference in yield or density of my nugs? coming from hortilux eye 1k hps! the good bulbs lol! I've read the 550, will replace 1k single ended, but the 600 will replace a double ended hps! makes me think I'm looking at a possible increase! as long as nothing is a decrease in weight or density of my buds I'm happy, don't need an increase regardless of how awesome that would be!
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I went from 1khps SE. To 660w of led. My yield went up roughly 18%+- cost to run went down 35% +- just in lighting. Not counting I'm not running AC now. And dropped off 3 fans. And trich production went through the roof. It's all in how you use the spectrum. In my opinion, mixing the spectrum works wonders over all just one spectrum.
 
Greenthumbs256

Greenthumbs256

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whytewidow said:
I went from 1khps SE. To 660w of led. My yield went up roughly 18%+- cost to run went down 35% +- just in lighting. Not counting I'm not running AC now. And dropped off 3 fans. And trich production went through the roof. It's all in how you use the spectrum. In my opinion, mixing the spectrum works wonders over all just one spectrum.
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that's what I was shopping to hear, less cost for lights, less heat! as long as I get the same results I'm happy! anything else is just a bonus ya know! I feel my yields are just what I need, and I'm happy!
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

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Greenthumbs256 said:
that's what I was shopping to hear, less cost for lights, less heat! as long as I get the same results I'm happy! anything else is just a bonus ya know! I feel my yields are just what I need, and I'm happy!
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I was super Leary going with leds again. Bc back in 2008 I spent over 3 grand on leds. Garbage. Didnt yield. They were pretty much useless. I bought strips way before anyone else even started using them. I got Sammy's for super cheap. So I took the risk. First run 1 single plant under the samsungs. I pulled 26 more grams over a run of the same clone under 1khps. Same exact setup, nutrients the works. Only thing i changed was the light source. I got my strips for under 10 bucks each. Now they are almost 40 bucks a strip. They are legit. Just like qb. 100 watts pushed out of a single light source (hps bulb). Is the same as 100w of good led. Spread over say 288 light sources. A watt is a watt. But you can also drop wattage to equal 1000w of hps. 600-700 is perfect for 1khps replacement. Some people who are super dialed in can pull the same weight with 500-600w in led as 1khps. But..... hps watts are wasted in heat. You can honestly lay your face on my leds. They are super cool. I can get them within 1 or 2 if I wanted too. But also remember led takes higher temps. I run anywhere between 82-86ish. Hps you stay mid to high 70s. If I drop under 80° my plant dont like it. They wont pray at all.
 
Greenthumbs256

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
I was super Leary going with leds again. Bc back in 2008 I spent over 3 grand on leds. Garbage. Didnt yield. They were pretty much useless. I bought strips way before anyone else even started using them. I got Sammy's for super cheap. So I took the risk. First run 1 single plant under the samsungs. I pulled 26 more grams over a run of the same clone under 1khps. Same exact setup, nutrients the works. Only thing i changed was the light source. I got my strips for under 10 bucks each. Now they are almost 40 bucks a strip. They are legit. Just like qb. 100 watts pushed out of a single light source (hps bulb). Is the same as 100w of good led. Spread over say 288 light sources. A watt is a watt. But you can also drop wattage to equal 1000w of hps. 600-700 is perfect for 1khps replacement. Some people who are super dialed in can pull the same weight with 500-600w in led as 1khps. But..... hps watts are wasted in heat. You can honestly lay your face on my leds. They are super cool. I can get them within 1 or 2 if I wanted too. But also remember led takes higher temps. I run anywhere between 82-86ish. Hps you stay mid to high 70s. If I drop under 80° my plant dont like it. They wont pray at all.
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that's awesome, and did actually make sense to me lol! that says alot, I'm just not a light or electricity guy! Heisen even made a video just for me about wiring a 220, I'm told it was explained very well, but after watching it 20 times still made no sense to me! lol
 
CoB_nUt

CoB_nUt

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Qb's have no issue with penetration or bud stackage.Yes these are the old tech...hahaha qb 120's 8 in a 4x4....

Well I was going to post a cple pics to show what I mean,as well as bring some plant pics to this text rich thread,damn server error decided differently. I have pics in the Mega crop thread,also in my thread..."Need a lil qb design help".
 
whytewidow

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
CoB_nUt said:
Qb's have no issue with penetration or bud stackage.Yes these are the old tech...hahaha qb 120's 8 in a 4x4....

Well I was going to post a cple pics to show what I mean,as well as bring some plant pics to this text rich thread,damn server error decided differently. I have pics in the Mega crop thread,also in my thread..."Need a lil qb design help".
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Yeah I tried to upload pics earlier and it kept saying server error. And in an open space QB dont get as good penetration as cobs or hps. They have 120° diodes I believe. The par drops off super fast in an open room. Like really fast. Theres several videos showing how bad it drops off at the edges. They have bigger hotspot. But lack penetration on the sides, and corners. Numbers are numbers. Theres no way to dispute it. The numbers went way up in a tent or reflective sides. Not dogging them at all. I have several. I just dont think they were designed to hang in an open room. But they do make reflectors for them now. For open room use. I havent seen any par mapping with them on though. But they look sweet as hell with them on.
 
Heisenbeans

Heisenbeans

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
Parallel wiring is much simpler than series. Series you have to daisy chain everything together. Your driver has to have normally 200+ VDC on the single output. Parallel one 54v or 24v or 36v whatever you're using. Two wires to each and your done. Parallel is the safest and fastest. When it comes to strips.

Edit: when you run series parallel that's when wiring can get tricky. Wiring groups of strips together in series then into parallel to the driver. That's how I'm doing my 17 strip veg light. Groups of strips in series. Then parallel to the driver. All only being pushed on a hlg185-c700a everything at 700mA then split down to 350mA then wired parallel to keep the voltage up.
Click to expand...
I disagree. Parallel creates runaway sections and has to be done more precisely . Also the DC voltages are high enough to stop your heart.
More people fry there setups and blow cobs and strips with parallel wiring than series. If one strip or cob draws a sink than its toast. You have to use resistors and all that bullshit.
 
Heisenbeans

Heisenbeans

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whytewidow said:
Yeah I tried to upload pics earlier and it kept saying server error. And in an open space QB dont get as good penetration as cobs or hps. They have 120° diodes I believe. The par drops off super fast in an open room. Like really fast. Theres several videos showing how bad it drops off at the edges. They have bigger hotspot. But lack penetration on the sides, and corners. Numbers are numbers. Theres no way to dispute it. The numbers went way up in a tent or reflective sides. Not dogging them at all. I have several. I just dont think they were designed to hang in an open room. But they do make reflectors for them now. For open room use. I havent seen any par mapping with them on though. But they look sweet as hell with them on.
Click to expand...
This is correct. That's why I avoided boards for big footprint areas cause to me its almost the same as just running a big bulb. Light drops off all along the outsides.
 
Greenthumbs256

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
whytewidow said:
Yeah I tried to upload pics earlier and it kept saying server error. And in an open space QB dont get as good penetration as cobs or hps. They have 120° diodes I believe. The par drops off super fast in an open room. Like really fast. Theres several videos showing how bad it drops off at the edges. They have bigger hotspot. But lack penetration on the sides, and corners. Numbers are numbers. Theres no way to dispute it. The numbers went way up in a tent or reflective sides. Not dogging them at all. I have several. I just dont think they were designed to hang in an open room. But they do make reflectors for them now. For open room use. I havent seen any par mapping with them on though. But they look sweet as hell with them on.
Click to expand...
no one can load pics, for some reason, not me or another one My buddies! something going on with r.i.u.
 
CannaBruh

CannaBruh

Well-Known Member
Heisenbeans said:
I disagree. Parallel creates runaway sections and has to be done more precisely . Also the DC voltages are high enough to stop your heart.
More people fry there setups and blow cobs and strips with parallel wiring than series. If one strip or cob draws a sink than its toast. You have to use resistors and all that bullshit.
Click to expand...
For a given number of strips a series configuration will require a higher applied voltage. While voltage in a parallel setup might meet requirements to 'stop a heart' the voltage requirement will need to be considerably higher for a series setup of the same # of strips.
There are trade-offs using either configuration to consider. Same would go for series parallel configs.
Easy button is buy a dedicated driver for a given emitter. They're cheap.
 
Greenthumbs256

Greenthumbs256

Well-Known Member
Heisenbeans said:
This is correct. That's why I avoided boards for big footprint areas cause to me its almost the same as just running a big bulb. Light drops off all along the outsides.
Click to expand...
but not in a tent right? my thinking is... yes the outskirts get less light, but considering the 600 covers a 5x5 max, and I only have a 4x4, the edges shouldn't be lacking at all! since I could have an extra foot on all sides, plus the reflection from the tent, shouldn't be slacking at all!
 
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