ThatSpudGuy
Well-Known Member
if you dont get the hook up , ill be using an American address if Heisin decides not to do international straight away if your interested man
Heisenbeans Genetics
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Heathen Raider
Well-Known Member
Man I hope Canada is in play if not then remember this Heathen is an American Veteran Patriotic duty to hook me up 
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
That's not true. Say you have 24v strips. In parallel your voltage is 24v across every strip. The current is divided. So say you have 6 strips. 24v and you hook them in parallel on a hlg240-24a that's 10.0A max current. You divide the 10.0 by 6 which equals 1.667a per strip. At 24v bc the driver only puts out 24v. In series you daisy chain the strips. And you have to add up the voltage. So 6 strips times 24v which 144vdc. So you need ti buy a driver that will put out atleast 144v on the output. Series uses higher voltage. Parallel uses lower voltage.
Series you add the voltage of each strip, in parallel you divide the current but the voltage is 24v. Like on the f series or H inFlux_L06 strips. And it's not true that you have a greater chance of thermal runaway in parallel.
Edit: if your running 6 strips on the hlg240-24a it gives the strips 1.667mA per strip at 24v. If one strip fails the current goes to 2000mA bc you then divide by 5. Which on 10.0A driver 10 ÷ 5=2.0A or 2000mA
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whytewidow
Well-Known Member
Series you go from the driver + to the first strip + then out of - on the other side of the strip to the + of the next 1 wire. And you keep going then your last strips out is - back to the driver. To make a loop. You add the voltage. Which is higher. If your strips are 24v you need 24+24+24+24+24+24=144v and they are max say 1100mA so youd buy a HLG-240H-C1050A driver. Which the output wire on it will put out 119v-238v which will work. It gives each strip its 24v and gives each one 1050mA of current.
Edit: I promise series wiring uses way higher voltages. If you're in parallel using 24v the output wire on the driver will only put out 24v no more.
Edit: I promise series wiring uses way higher voltages. If you're in parallel using 24v the output wire on the driver will only put out 24v no more.
Heisenbeans
Well-Known Member
Naw man series wiring all the diodes share the exact same current
Parallel they only share voltage. As the diodes heat up they become resistant and 1 string can hog all the current. Parallel is more likely to fail than series.
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
Lol ok man. I've built over 30 strip lights. A simple Google search will show you are wrong. I'm a master electrician of 20 years man. In parallel you divide the current the driver will put out 24v if your using a 24v strip or cob or whatever. If you're in series the output wire on the driver will tons higher. Look up the data sheet it will show you.
Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
I'm also ret. vet, if he won't mail it, he can mail to me, and I'll mail it to you! brothers for life man! I got you!Man I hope Canada is in play if not then remember this Heathen is an American Veteran Patriotic duty to hook me up
I was army you?
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
I'll bet you a pack of every strain you release forever you are wrong.
If you buy 6 F series gen 3 strips. They are 24v. Wire it parallel. Using a HLG-240H-24A driver. Bc you want 240watts. The hlg240 does 10.0A max. At 24v. If you take a meter and put it on the driver output it will b 24v. Not more. If it's A type driver they can put out 28v I think. Hlg-240h-1050A puts out atleast 119v and that's what the meter will read. Not 24v.
If you buy 6 F series gen 3 strips. They are 24v. Wire it parallel. Using a HLG-240H-24A driver. Bc you want 240watts. The hlg240 does 10.0A max. At 24v. If you take a meter and put it on the driver output it will b 24v. Not more. If it's A type driver they can put out 28v I think. Hlg-240h-1050A puts out atleast 119v and that's what the meter will read. Not 24v.
Heisenbeans
Well-Known Member
I know your right about that but wrong about runaway. Parallel wiring each group to the driver has a greater chance of it than series.
Everything I have read on parallel led setups warns against it without resistors.
How can it not be when none of the strips share the same current only voltage
Heisenbeans
Well-Known Member
Taken straight from the led gardener. The guy knows his shit
Wiring LEDs in Parallel Parallel wiring is most often used when working with constant voltage drivers. A lot of people are now using constant voltage drivers and wiring up their COBs in parallel, since the drivers are usually cheaper and people are more comfortable working with low voltages like 36V, as opposed to high-voltage series circuits that can be 200V+. One drawback is the fact that wiring COBs in parallel does make them vulnerable to thermal runaway. Thermal runaway refers to the process that occurs when a COB heats up, causing it to draw more current, which heats it up further, drawing even more current, and this loop continues until it destroys itself. Unless you implement something like a resistor to limit the maximum current, there’s nothing stopping the COBs from pulling as much current as the driver will provide if the COBs go into thermal runaway, or the voltage output of the driver rises. That being said, in my own testing, current levels have always stabilized at reasonable drive currents and I have only seen thermal runaway occur at very high currents that nobody is going to run at (3+ amps per COB!).
Wiring LEDs in Parallel Parallel wiring is most often used when working with constant voltage drivers. A lot of people are now using constant voltage drivers and wiring up their COBs in parallel, since the drivers are usually cheaper and people are more comfortable working with low voltages like 36V, as opposed to high-voltage series circuits that can be 200V+. One drawback is the fact that wiring COBs in parallel does make them vulnerable to thermal runaway. Thermal runaway refers to the process that occurs when a COB heats up, causing it to draw more current, which heats it up further, drawing even more current, and this loop continues until it destroys itself. Unless you implement something like a resistor to limit the maximum current, there’s nothing stopping the COBs from pulling as much current as the driver will provide if the COBs go into thermal runaway, or the voltage output of the driver rises. That being said, in my own testing, current levels have always stabilized at reasonable drive currents and I have only seen thermal runaway occur at very high currents that nobody is going to run at (3+ amps per COB!).
whytewidow
Well-Known Member
They do share the same. Bc strips are wired normally 8s12p both series and parallel. Internally on the strip. You dont need resistors. I have multiple lights running right now in parallel. No resistors. Thermal runaway isnt gonna happen at low voltages. Your chances of thermal runaway @24v are about 2% even in series your chances are very slim. Bc Samsung, bridgelux, cree they all way under rate their stuff. That's why ledgardner pushed like 7000mA through a QB with no failure. On a max 2800mA board. honestly they can probably handle 4800mA with cooling for years with no problems. Just like 1 footer eb series strips the datasheet says 700mA max. Theres several people pushing alot more through them one dude has the 560mm strips. Max is 1400mA on the datasheet hes been pushing 2400mA through them for over a year now. Not one single problem.
NoWaistedSpace
Well-Known Member
I've only used the CC Drivers. For example, I will take a Meanwell HLG240- 2100mA -B driver (119volts) and parallel 2 or even 3 Vero 29's 38 volts in parallel, then run in series.(row of 3 like you would regular series of 3) All 9 will be roughly 700mA each. That's a nice 240 watt spread with a "B style" driver. I like the "A type" because it uses every bit of cuurent, so I get close to 300 watts out of the type "A" 2100mA. The "B" gives you 2100mA only. That is what my "Kill-O-Watt" tells me at the wall.
It has been working fine for me. I do the QB's the same way. CV drivers are a different ball game. They are better for the QB's.
Correct me if you see something wrong, but so far, so good! lol
It has been working fine for me. I do the QB's the same way. CV drivers are a different ball game. They are better for the QB's.
Correct me if you see something wrong, but so far, so good! lol
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Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
dam all that shit just doesn't make any dam sense to me, lol I'm trying.... it kills me
Heisenbeans
Well-Known Member
This is why I avoid parallel wiring. Just to much extra shit to add inline with all the extra clutter.
I highly doubt this dude dont know what hes talking about
I highly doubt this dude dont know what hes talking about
Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
daauuuuum dem teeth!!! or I should say lack of....
Heisenbeans
Well-Known Member
I'll take your word for it.
Heathen Raider
Well-Known Member
I was army as well 11b then re classed to 52 D , 9th ID , 25th ID 99th SB then Westcom then 2nd ACR , my Son just got out of Navy He was a Corpman just left a 3 year tour at Gitmo . Yea my Family everyone serves. I appreciate the offer , one I would gladly take if He doesn't ship to Canada
NoWaistedSpace
Well-Known Member
We are good with the Vero 29's on CC drivers. The vid confirmed it form me. People underestimate the quality of a Vero 29. They max at 4200mA and are built tough.
I have never had an issue. I am just getting more spread out of the driver and a little better "efficacy".
I have an idea, let's all do a test of different lighting styles with these testers if Heisen agrees.
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Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
if he don't or cant, just let me know I got you!
and as far as I know, I don't think he can I could be wrong, but I believe it's against some laws and the fact it goes through customs, but there's ways around that, with it being beans, they are easy a shit to hide! and I'll dam sure take care of fellow brother in arms so don't stress it!
don't no body else ask, bc I'm only doing this bc he served! dam sure not taking that kinda risk for everybody, sorry!
Greenthumbs256
Well-Known Member
so @Heisenbeans you ship to Canada or what?
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