HPA Without An Accumulator

PetFlora said:

I cannot find the thread where this was posted. Anybody know who wrote this? I would like to communicate with him

"There are mainly two types that are based on former and newer scientific results.
1. about 180 N versus 220 P, is the more recommended formula for a hot, tropical or not fully climate controlled and rather warm indoor climate (high light heat output).

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220 P will play havoc with your Calcium, Mag, Iron and Zinc with that amount in the mix

Hurray. I found a better PVC Coupler at Lowes. This one has much shorter threads AND a locking ring. The shorter threads will help the mist to reach the starter cube. The locking ring will help keep the plant from listing/falling.

Part # 25018. Schedule 40 called a Slip Joint Nut and Washer 1 1/2". Comes in a baggie, so you might need to ask. $2.66 each set




PVC CAUTION article:
http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/06/24/europe-bans-penis-shrinking-chemical-america-does-not.aspx

Ok, I finally found where your thread is... Subbed... and just read from beginning to end. Have you had any good results with the new couplers?

I am doing a small grow, Only one coupler in use on a tiny seedling that is struggling to survive due to getting too much fan air blowing on it too soon.

PetFlora said:

I am doing a small grow, Only one coupler in use on a tiny seedling that is struggling to survive due to getting too much fan air blowing on it too soon.

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oh man.. got my fingers crossed...

Cool Petflora I never knew it was being used for consumption and the possible benefits it had. One thing worth mentioning- if you use it, don't unhale the dust- it can irritate the lungs like asbestos... I also read on wikipedia it could be used as a growing medium in hydroponics, but have no idea how you'd do that with a powder, or maybe they mean more like gravel sized pieces that aren't pulverized into dust?

Hi. Your roots look great. Mine don't look that different from yours. I've heard that the mass of 'thin fishbone' type roots are the tell-tale signs of true aeroponics roots. My roots are just that...a mass of thin, fishbone roots...And when I stop using the notoriously brown GH, my roots will look even more like yours.

I use the cheap low pressure method, but there is 45 liters a minute of oxygen in my water droplets, though they be over 50 micron in size.

PetFlora said:

In that old photo, mine are not any better than yours.

True hpa roots, look like fluffy cotton candy. Imagine the same volume of roots with zillions of feeding sites ready to accept the atomized high pressure mist using deep time release cycles. That's what I am striving for, and it has been a journey, but I am on the cusp of having cotton candy roots. I have a journal elsewhere

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I see. Hope you reach your goal.

What is your opinion regarding the impact of hp on a grow. Say I switched from what I'm doing now and invested in hp heads, an hp pump, and accum, with everything else the same. Do you think it would impact my grow significantly enough to warrant the added expense and maintenance?

PetFlora said:

There is no way I could know what is best for YOU. I can tell you that I went from lpa to quasi hpa while my lpa grown plant was seemingly ready to harvest, but within 48 hours of adding high pressure heads and pump, I saw new fox tails were shooting all over, and new roots of course, which were feeding the new buds. And that was using a 15 minute timer- too long and too wet, which prevented cotton candy (CC), but I knew I was onto something special.

After that grow I bought a Sentinel MDT-1 timer, only to later find out it is not accurate at one second, and does not cycle below that. The TRUE HPA guys use an accumulator, solenoids, etc and run < 0.5 second wet cycles, followed by < 30 second dry cycles. This combination basically turns the root system into a 24/7 pig out, as the roots never get too wet/dry (full/hungry), consequently they eat all the time.

Imagine what that can do for grow and yield- explosive. BUT, I am attempt to get close to their results without the accum. They say I'm crazy (in so many words), but I am using almost everything they use sans the accum, solenoids, and < one second timer. My thought is if I can get close to their results the whole experience/learning curve is worth it. It wasn't wasy getting to where I am now, but I have a journal elsewhere documenting step-by-step in case you are interested

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I'm interested. And although you don't know the details of my setup, I think, based upon your response, if done correctly, the answer to my question would be a resounding yes.

I've been doing a bit of research into that technology simply to broaden my horizons. It really does sound like the perfect balance of dry and wet, but not fully wet, is taking the base concept of hydro growing to the next level.

Thanks for being understanding and not shitting on my root picture. I think my roots exhibit some of the characteristics of true aero, if not being the actual cotton candy, but also understand that they are not quite there.

I went as far as checking out some manufacturer sites of the hp related gear... Looked like a space-age price tag. But I'm thinking all that stuff wouldn't exist just for the hell of it.

Thanks. 400.00 is nothing to sneeze at, but well within reason too.

I'll have to do a bit more studying. The less than 30 second timer seems important.

I'm so lost, one of you fine aero people had a method of connecting the quick connects, via a tee to the 1/8" npt on the cloudtops, I've decided to use them and here I am zig zagging all over the internet trying to find whoever mentioned they had a connection method, pray for me

Thanks for the read PetFlora, do you (or anyone else) think an inline check valve with a cracking pressure of 100psi (or your desired pressure) before the nozzles would help you achieve your goal of mimicking HPA results with an accumulator? Are there any implications on safety by doing this?